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dennyk
Jan 2, 2005

Cheese-Buyer's Remorse


sanchez posted:

Don't they just raise the price of the car (or drop it less during negotiation) on those 0% deals, or can you still get it down near invoice?

I got my Hyundai for well under invoice even with the 0% financing. You should avoid discussing financing during the price negotiations anyway; all you want to talk about during that discussion is the final price of the car.

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dennyk
Jan 2, 2005

Cheese-Buyer's Remorse


Nocheez posted:

I think that is a non-transferable warranty, it only applies for the original owner.

Don't know how it was in 2004, but my '08 Sonata's powertrain warranty is non-transferable, so I imagine it was the same back then. The bumper-to-bumper is transferable, but that's only good for 5 years or 60k miles, so his is well outside that.

dennyk
Jan 2, 2005

Cheese-Buyer's Remorse


Leperflesh posted:

I do not recommend a 72-month car loan. Unless you feel you really have the discipline to pay it off much faster. Even the 60 month is bad, except that it's at 0%, in which case, OK (but still pay it in four years or less if you possibly can).

The reason is because the car will depreciate as soon as you buy it, and the longer the term of the loan, the longer you spend "underwater" on the car. If you do decide to do this, make sure your auto insurance (which you of course will get a comprehensive policy on, including uninsured motorist) has "gap coverage" - e.g., if your car is totaled, the insurance company will pay it off, even if the car's present value is lower than what you still owe.

There is absolutely no reason to pay off a 0% loan early. A long-term loan can be bad if it costs you more in interest due to the length of the loan term or if you are only getting it for that term because you can't really afford whatever you're buying and need your payments to be as low as possible. If you can afford the car under reasonable loan terms (a decent down payment and a 36-48 month loan at a typical interest rate), however, then there's no reason not to do as long a term and as low a down payment as possible for a 0% loan and put your down payment and the money you save on each monthly payment into a savings account to earn some interest on it. Just keep that money around for the life of the loan term and you won't have to be concerned about being upside-down on the loan itself; if something happens and the car gets totaled, you have those funds to make up the difference. (Gap insurance might still be a good value depending on how much you expect the car to depreciate and what the premiums will cost you, though.)

I definitely wouldn't do the 1.9% 72-month term over the 60-month 0%; there's no advantage to voluntarily paying more interest just to get a slightly lower monthly payment.

dennyk
Jan 2, 2005

Cheese-Buyer's Remorse


alreadybeen posted:

Great choice, I have a Hyundai and absolutely love it as well. It has been one of those purchases every time I get in the car I feel good about my purchase, even a year later. Also the ipod hookup is great the way it can be controlled through the actual stereo.

One thing though, maybe try shopping around on insurance. Unless those are Aussie dollars, you have been in a wreck, or have a $0 deductible, it seems quite high. I have a Sonata with full coverage $500 deductible and its $69/mo.

I'm paying a little under $100/mo for $250-deductible full coverage with 250k/500k/250k liability on my '08 Sonata. $160/mo probably isn't bad for a 20-year-old, though you should definitely still shop around.

Also, remember that you should almost always carry more coverage than your state's minimums; minimum coverage levels are usually ridiculously low, and if you cause a wreck that does a lot of property damage or hurts someone, you'll be on the hook personally for everything beyond the limits on your policy. If you screw up and total some dude's $50k Mercedes and you have some state-minimum $10k/$20k/$10k liability policy, you're in deep poo poo, and if you injure him seriously in the process, you're pretty much screwed for good. Go for the biggest limits your insurance company offers that you can afford; the price increase for higher limits is usually not too bad.

Seconding the Hyundai love, by the way; I've had my Sonata for over three years and 24k miles now (don't drive all that much) and I still love it (though I am a bit jealous of the new 2.0Ts... :v: ). Haven't had a single mechanical problem with it (just body damage from idiots running into me while I'm stopped or parked :argh: ).

dennyk
Jan 2, 2005

Cheese-Buyer's Remorse


Arzakon posted:

Sorry about your poo poo state, the new governor in Georgia is trying to get the same thing passed.

What really sucks about a private party sales tax in GA is that we already have to pay an annual ad valorem tax on cars. :(

IOwnCalculus posted:

One thing to keep in mind with the Jetta - and part of why the reviews of the current model are so much worse than past models - is VW purposely went downmarket on a lot of features and materials used in the car in an effort to lower the price tag, while everyone else is moving to make their low-end cars nicer.

The new Jettas really are bad inside. My brother has a Jetta that's a few years old and it's got a nice interior, but I looked at one of the new models at an auto show the other week and it was terrible. Reminded me a lot of a lovely Cobalt rental I got stuck with once. Everything was cheap, hard plastic with huge panel gaps and nothing really fit right.

Also, the base Jetta model now comes with an ancient 114HP 2-liter I4. :psyduck: My '93 Saturn SL2 had more power than that (and weighed 500lbs less to boot).

Fake edit: The Jetta isn't even in the same class as the Sonata anymore, it's more comparable with the Elantra (and the Elantra is pretty much better in every way unless you really gotta have a diesel).

dennyk fucked around with this message at 19:13 on Apr 9, 2011

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