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Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005

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Leperflesh posted:

Insurance adjusters like that are usually subcontractors. The insurance company goes with local outfits who come inspect the vehicle.

The problem comes in when your insurance company has some kind of preferred arrangement with like, one tiny outfit, and refuses to use someone else if they're overbooked or Joe is on vacation or whatever.

I have no idea if this applies to Progressive. But Amica has had someone on-site to inspect damage for me three times now, and in every case, they've managed to get someone there in like 3-5 days.

JackRabbit, I didn't mean to sound like I was chastising you for cross-posting; your reasoning is, well, reasonable.

The only subcontractor employees that big insurance companies (Progressive, GEICO, Allstate, SF) use are in remote areas where they don't have a local presence. It will be a company employee.

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Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005

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When I mean remote, I'm talking middle of nowhere Montana/Wyoming/Alaska. There is an office that services that area. The rep is a Managed Repair Rep who travels to different locations for the inspection.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005

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Sounds like you weren't keeping up on it.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005

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Christ almighty how in the world did you end up owing 8k on a '98? Is it a loan they took out and used the car collateral or is it the actual loan on the vehicle?

If you have gap coverage on your insurance (and it covers the full value, not something like an extra 25%) you better hope some drunk driver demolishes the car.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005

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Advice posted:

AFAIK it is a loan they took out with Citifinancial using the car as collateral.

In that case you're boned. Pay it off as fast as possible. What kind of APR does that loan have?

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005

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I imagine you're getting a good deal on the TDI is because they are trying to flush the 2011s off the market. It wasn't long ago that they weren't doing any deals on TDIs. I got my TDI for right at invoice, which I'm happy with.

I hope you got a good APR to go with your price because otherwise all the research in the world doesnt help if you are getting bent over with a 12% APR.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005

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Leperflesh posted:

You should always negotiate price first, and then only discuss financing afterward.

And, if the best financing you can get from dealer or bank or credit union is 12%, then you maybe shouldn't be financing a brand new car, because your credit is poo poo.

Yes, absolutely. But people get so hung up over getting $500 off a 25k car that they may not realize the long term cost.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005

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JackRabbitStorm posted:

So as an update on this.


Due to gross miscommunication between the insurance adjuster, the shop has just now taken a quick glance at the car. They think the timing might of blown, but wont be able to tear the engine apart until next week to check it out. The wet carpets and poo poo have been sitting in the car for three weeks as of yesterday. The adjuster is still adamant that it will most likely be repairable.

What I know is wrong with the car
Front passenger tie rod, possibly more damage.
Possible timing, car will not start, battery is fully charged.
Wet carpets that smell like death.

Is there anyway once they determine whats all wrong and the cost of fixing it to opt out of having them fix it and just get a check for the repair cost, minus deductible? I don't want that car back, its going to be an electric nightmare from here on out.

Also, what about the reduced market value of the car since it will now have a flooded/salvage title?

A few things here. The vehicle will not have a salvage title if the vehicle is repaired, as it is not being considered a total loss. If it was completely flooded and unrepairable, then we'd be talking salvage title. If that was the situation, then the insurance company would pay you for the actual cash value (remember this, you'll see it often) less your comprehensive deductible. You could also retain the vehicle in this case, if you were so inclined, but I wouldn't recommend it unless you had sentimental value in a vehicle.

Next, you will not receive any payment for the perceived loss of market value on this loss as every single state's policy except Georgia has a provision that you cannot collect Diminution of Value (DOV) for first party claims, which is what your claim is.

In addition, you can elect to not repair the vehicle and take the payment. Here is a problem with that route - if you do elect to simply get a check for the damages less deductible, be aware the payment will be for damages visible. It is highly likely that if they were to tear down (disassemble) the vehicle for repairs they would find additional damages you cannot see presently. Since they will not be doing tear down you will receive a payment for what is visible. If you ever elected to repair the car later, they could certainly do a reinspection to determine if there is additional damage.

Lastly, I'm sure you've said it somewhere but I don't remember. If the vehicle is financed, be aware that the lienholder's name will appear on any draft as a payee and they will not endorse the draft without confirmation the vehicle has been repaired.

Just an aside, your vehicle is totally repairable and based on the water height, I highly doubt it damaged any electrical components, for what it's worth.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005

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JackRabbitStorm posted:

So, if I elect to not do repairs and take check minus deductible, I keep the car? I was misinformed on this, so this is good information. They are doing a partial tear down over the next week to look into the timing belt and to see if there are any bent rods. The shop is doing this all on the adjusters go ahead. All the information I have about the car is after the fact from calling the adjuster, the adjuster doesn't call me to tell me whats going on. (Whole different rant there)

Yes you retain the damaged vehicle and are given the draft for the damages less deductible. You are owed the money as you sustained the damage in a covered loss, so it's whatever you want to do. Plenty of people take a payment for some minor cosmetic damage because they have no intention of repairing it. Works out well for the insurance company too as they don't have to pay rental.

If you are having trouble with the adjuster, call the 800 number and don't enter your claim number. Get over to claims and explain to the rep your situation and they can try to put you in touch with that rep's supervisor.

Edit: You might want to tell the adjuster you may not want to repair the car as it sounds like the shop is under the impression you will be repairing it there.

Literally Lewis Hamilton fucked around with this message at 02:46 on Aug 11, 2011

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005

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IOwnCalculus posted:

Given that I've never heard of a Kia Picanto, I'm guessing you're not in the US. The way you are budgeting is perfectly manageable since most expenses will be roughly mileage based, as long as your "rate" is high enough to account for insurance / etc.

In the US at least, insurance must be prorated if you cancel it for any reason. I always pay six months at a time when I renew because they discount it significantly to do so. I could renew, then cancel the next day and only pay for the time used.

North Carolina has a fun way of charging for insurance - the insurance company gets paid for the days you were insured with them (which makes sense) but also gets a percentage of all the days you were not insured as well. Thank the state for that one.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005

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berzerker posted:

I'm going abroad for 3 months soon, then back in the States at my parents' place for the holidays, then abroad for another 3 months. My insurance right now is $43/month with Geico, and I called them up and it sounds like they'll only lower that to $28/month if I go to their minimal, stored-car plan (putting it in my parents' garage). I'm inclined to just cancel the insurance and start up again in 7-8 months. Is there any downside to this, aside from needing to be driven for the minimal amount I might during the holidays? I think I've seen questions about whether you've had interrupted insurance before when getting my auto insurance - is this going to make problems if I have a 8-month window of no insurance?

Keep up the coverage - when you go for insurance and have a lapse of more than 30 days you'll be paying a good bit more.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005

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Land Rover still makes a hilariously unreliable car with outrageous repair costs.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005

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I'm currently dropping around $1200 a month into my Golf TDI to pay it off by the end of the year. I eventually want to upgrade to an S5 or something in the same approximate price point. Would it be best to finish paying off the TDI, buy the S5, then sell the TDI and put the money from it into the S5? The other option would be sell/trade the TDI now, but I imagine this is the worst of the two options.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005

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sanchez posted:

You can cancel insurance at any time and be paid out the remaining premium, so if your rate does not drop, you can easily move somewhere else.

You can just rewrite your policy with the company you are with.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005

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dreesemonkey posted:

Another reason for getting rid of some of the cars is that I have too many hobbies and not enough time, like the miata for instance.

One of the hobbies that I really enjoy and would gladly give the miata up for is riding my ATV, which is another reason why a truck makes sense for us. ATVs aside, anyone who owns a home can appreciate how handy it is to have a truck around. Sure you could get plywood and drywall with a minivan but I doubt you'd want to pick up mulch.

The fuel economy is a moot point as I'd be driving it less than 5k a year and it will do no worse mpg than my V6 ranger gets now.

Counterpoint: It does seem silly to be spending all that money on something we're not going to drive very often, but having a vehicle that our family cannot all travel in at once is not something I want, either.

I just picked up 12 bags of mulch in my 2 door hatchback. A tarp and a dustbuster for whatever sneaks out and you're golden.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005

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Armacham posted:

I have a car insurance question, so I hope that this is the correct thread to ask this. My girlfriend and I are shopping around for insurance together, we currently have separate policies: her car, and me with my motorcycle.

While running the numbers, the agent said that he would not be able to insure me because of something on my driving record. This is essentially impossible as the only tickets I've ever had were taken off my record with traffic school and one ticket I got in high school over 10 years ago for rolling through a stop sign. He wasn't able to tell us what the issue was exactly, so how do I actually go about finding out what the problem is?

Get a copy of your CLUE report from Choicepoint.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005

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Could be the dealer slacking and not sending in the completed stuff to the lienholder for them to process.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005

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Take your CLUE report to him and ask him what he's on about. If you don't have any tickets/citations and there is nothing on your CLUE report for prior claims I can't see what the issue is.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005

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Residency Evil posted:

What kind of insurance policy minimums should I be looking at? I've been told 100k/300k/100k, but that seems low. Nevertheless I don't see every company offering more. I've also heard that physicians should purchase more car insurance. Is there any truth to this?

You ideally want enough limits to protect your assets. If you are a physician earning a sizable amount, I would say you should go for 250/500/250 or a 500 combined single limit (CSL). Depending on how much you are earning and your assets you may seriously want to consider an umbrella policy. If you're sporting a 1 million nest egg and you go and seriously hurt someone, you want to have that policy to avoid getting the piss sued out of you.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005

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Residency Evil posted:

Do future earnings apply to this? My current income isn't very high but my future earning potential is pretty substantial. Would I need an umbrella policy in this case?

Depends on your assets. If you are young with no property, high end cars, etc. and a fairly low current income then you don't need an umbrella policy. As you become more established in your career and your earnings go up you can always raise your limits and get an umbrella policy if needed.

Keep in mind that you have to have 250/500 or 500 CSL limits if you have an umbrella policy.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005

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The Young Marge posted:

Hello! I need a car and would gladly accept some advice. Is there any such thing as a cool-looking station wagon?

Budget?
- Up to $16k.

New or Used?
- Lightly used.

Body Style?
- 4 door, hatchback/wagon. I am totally not interested in an SUV or minivan. A hybrid would be nice, or just something with excellent gas mileage.

Special Uses/Needs/Features?
- Must easily accommodate child seats. Must be able to fit musical gear (a hatch or wagon with foldable back seats would make this much easier). I want something very efficient but with plenty of cargo space. In addition, I would like it to not look totally derpy. So, basically a mom car that doesn't look too mommish.

2008 VW Passat Wagon - http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-...315952797&Log=0

That one is higher but easily found under 16k.

http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-...315634370&Log=0

Literally Lewis Hamilton fucked around with this message at 03:06 on May 22, 2012

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005

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Don Lapre posted:

The regal is built in Canada.

North America?

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005

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Terminus posted:

Proposed Budget: 3500 + ~3000(Trade-in) = $6500
Location: Philadelphia, PA USA
New or Used: Either
Body Style: Smaller is ok(Mini Cooper is my dream car), a low price is preffered.
How will you be using the car?: Normal use, commuting to work, shopping, visiting people, etc.
What aspects are most important to you? Fuel economy, reliablilty, decent sound system(but that can be installed later)

Basically my trusty old 2001 Nissan Sentra isn't looking so hot these days, $1400 in repairs in Feb and now another $1100. I'm thinking it might be time go get something a bit more modern and reliable. Someone suggested a lease and there's a dealership around here with a decent deal, at least to my eyes, on new Corolla leases, $3000+taxes/tag/etc. and $50 a month for 24 months. Also my dad works for GM so I have access to the employee discounts.(Looks like $250 off plus a lower insterest rate for the cheaper cars). I also would be fine with another used. You folks have any ideas?

$50 a month lease? What?

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005

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Falcon2001 posted:

Yeah, the TDI is a little spendy (Why is the navigation part of the tier 2 package and not the tier 3? WTF VW)and I'm pretty disappointed it doesn't get the style of the GTI and just looks so...plain I guess. It's definitely on the list though now that I'm more into the 28k range with the veloster turbo and the Cooper S. Also, it's really not as well equipped as I'd like.

I was expecting to like it a lot more when I went looking originally, as I've grown up around Golfs and Rabbits and small VWs have always been something I've liked.


I'll see. Part of this is that while I'm happy to learn to drive stick, my girlfriend isn't, and we've only got the one car between the two of us. I'll consider it though.

If you are wanting to go used, the 2011 models for the Golf TDI had everything as an option, no packages (besides the cold weather package of heated seats and wiper nozzles) to be seen. I picked up a 2011 because I wanted everything but the Nav.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005

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A loving long wheelbase A8 for someone who is interested in compact to midsize entry level sedans? With air suspension for the maximum destroyed bank account factor?

Seriously, no.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005

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Obscurity posted:

I'm kind of in a bind as my beater is at the point where it cannot continue to be driven without putting as much money into it as it's worth (200-300$).

On top of that, my budget allows for a maximum of $250/mo. payment. I only have $350 saved up, and I am able to sell my beater to a friend for $200. That brings me to a $550 down payment. The next problem is I have a terrible credit score. Like 450-550~ range..so..here goes..

Proposed Budget: $5,000-$12,000~ @ no more than $250/mo.
New or Used: Used, 70k or less miles
Body Style: Sedan or Crossover, but I will take what I can get..I am a big guy (overweight and tall) so roomier the better.
How will you be using the car?: Driving to and from work mostly. About a 24mi round trip.
What aspects are most important to you? MPG, Interior room, Current Mileage

Am I dreaming, or is this somehow possible? Am I going to be stuck going to a buy-here pay-here lot and paying 25% APR on marked up piece of crap?

With a 450-550 credit score, expect to get hammered on state maximum APR.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005

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You should really keep looking - you're about to be one of the those suckers who buys the first car they drive.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005

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No, you can't remove the seats in any of those. No, you can't "void" a warranty by installing an aftermarket headunit or speakers. TDI comes in automatic as well.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005

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Passat TDI. Has the bluetooth and great MPG.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005

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Dodge Dart is probably the best bet for "mean" looks under 20k.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005

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It's right at 30. 25/36/30 for the 2.0.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005

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Volvo V70 AWD.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005

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I'd just walk away from that particular car, there are scores of undamaged Mazda 3s out there. Why buy this car that isn't even a great deal with the unknown of damage?

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005

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Yeah it's not branded as a salvage title but since everyone loves the poo poo out of Carfax, seeing damage reported on it is also a black mark.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005

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A running, decent condition 97 Corolla for 1k isn't a bad deal. If everything checks out that wouldn't be a terrible ride for that cost.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005

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I'd throw in a Golf TDI with the GTI as a Mazdaspeed3 if you are considering a WRX.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005

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Proposed Budget: Up to $30k
New or Used: New/CPO/Gently used
Body Style: 4 door Hatch or Wagon, Small SUV
Location: Austin, TX
How will you be using the car?: DD, hauling 2 dogs, camping trips. Potential road trip.
What aspects are most important to you?: Fuel economy, comfort, fun to drive.
Currently comparing: Focus HB Titanium, Elantra GT, Prius V

My lady is shopping for something to replace her 07 base model Toyota Yaris. Anything is an upgrade at this point as the Yaris is poverty spec. Her commute is around 20 miles and a large portion of this is in the city, so she is wanting an automatic with good fuel efficiency while still being fun to drive. It needs enough room to haul around two medium size dogs. The regular Prius' hatch floor was too high to have the dogs in there.

She also looked at the Impreza hatch, the Forester, the Verano and the Mazda 3 hatch but none of them were high on her list. Am I missing anything else? The Focus seems to be in the lead with the 2k incentive they are running + X-plan pricing.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005

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You are going to take an absolute bath on trading in a brand new car. You'll never recoup that insurance/gas savings. Keep the car.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005

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Well go on, what did you get?

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Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005

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1. Buy something else, anything else, than an 08 Chevy Malibu.
2. Stop shopping the payments - shop the car price and interest rate you can get.

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