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Proposed Budget: $6,000-$10,000 New or Used: Used Body Style: prefer midsize or smaller, but a crossover may work How will you be using the car?: My wife has a left foot injury that we haven't been able to get resolved. We both drive manuals. We've temporarily swapped cars, but we need to come up with a longer term solution. I will be trading in my 8 year old WRX, which I estimate at around $6,000 trade in its current condition. We can't swing a big car payment at this point, so I'm trying not to be too far out of pocket on the deal. It will be used for maybe 100 miles per week. What aspects are most important to you? The price range is important. Automatic or CVT is a requirement. Maintainability is important to me, which for me rules out VWs (last one was a pain in the rear end). Also, something where we can expect to not have major issues (which I know cannot be guaranteed). I know Subarus well, but all the ones in our price range are in the head gasket danger zone. Other than that, I'm flexible. I don't know anything about Hyundais, but I'm wondering if they would be a good option.
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Aug 27, 2016 17:58
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everdave posted:If you are just doing 100 miles a week man you could get into a low mileage Nissan Leaf for like $8k, loaded with lots of tech and probably only 25-30k miles Interesting, but there are occasional trips longer than it's range, and charging logistics and home would be a problem.
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Aug 28, 2016 05:57
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I watched a Consumer Reports guide for used cars under $10k and the Mazda 3 from '08-'10 seems to fit the bill. They can be found locally for the $8k range with a tad under 100k mi on them. Should I head to the Mazda thread to get specific feedback on this option?
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Aug 28, 2016 17:11
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nm posted:Do things rust where you live? Things do indeed rust. New England.
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Aug 28, 2016 18:39
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Bill NYSE posted:I picked up an '08 Mazda3i touring earlier this year and while it had low mileage I made sure to check for any rusting indications. We'll be going through its first Chicago winter in the coming months; but I'm seeing lots of Mazdas around that don't look bad at all -- I think the majority of those issues were ironed out by '06 / '07. I'll be trading a WRX for it, so the 2.0 and 2.5 look really underpowered to me. I'm sure it will be acceptable for my wife.
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Aug 29, 2016 01:10
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What's the deal with price guides? I'm tabulating all the information I have, and NADA has a trade in on my car significantly higher than KBB or Edmunds. I'm trading because the car has enough problems that I'd have to reveal to a private party buyer (Lemon laws, not a douche), but I wouldn't care not telling a dealer. For reference, it is a 2009 Subaru Impreza WRX Wagon base with 145k miles, and in terms of the obvious problems that they'd find, it needs a new AC compressor and the front bumper is pretty beat up (but whole). If they do a thorough inspection they might find that there is a dragging pad in the rear. NADA is saying in rough condition (which is pretty accurate), the trade price is $8,475. Edmunds is at $4,820, and KBB "average" (better than "rough") is $5,952. The NADA retail pricing seems to match up with what comparable listings are at, so obviously I'd be hoping for something in that range. Also, Is there typically a minimum that a dealer will let a car go for less trade in? I still haven't found out of my CU has a minimum financing amount, but I was quoted "I've never seen a loan under about $3,000". I can't really swing throwing down $1,000 cash right now, and I'd rather finance the difference anyway. I'm really just wondering if $8,500 is actually a reasonable trade in on my car, then will I need to shoot for a more expensive replacement.
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Sep 7, 2016 02:41
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Let's talk Canadian cars. Local dealer is selling a 61k Mazda3 priced at 61,000 miles. I'm 99% certain it's only 61,000 kilometers. I'm having my guy check it out right now, but am I asking for it with this?
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Sep 9, 2016 19:10
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I meant 61,000 on the odometer. They're asking $10k.
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Sep 9, 2016 19:24
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I checked on the test drive against mile markers. 99% certain it's KM.
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Sep 9, 2016 19:25
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Yeah, I guess I'm concerned its going to cause problems if I try to sell it down the road, though. All the registration records are km = miles, so I can have people entering it in properly or it looks like a rollback.
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Sep 9, 2016 19:32
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Well, I have it now. I'm pretty happy with the deal. I'm less happy with constantly having to convert C to F for outside temperature. This is going to be immersion therapy for metric.
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Sep 9, 2016 23:45
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tater_salad posted:A lot of cars have a press this button while licking your nuts to switch to miles I called a Mazda dealership while getting the car checked out and the only way to do that is to replace the cluster, which would roll it back to 0000. Other posters are likely correct about the outside temperature units.
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Sep 10, 2016 00:57
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Thermopyle posted:How does even an expert know if all the airbags work? Schrödinger's Airbag. As long as you don't perform a test, the airbags work (and don't work).
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Sep 20, 2016 16:49
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Throatwarbler posted:Mazda3 hatch should suit you, get the newest one in your price range. Having just done a lot of research on this, your budget should put you in anything from a low mileage 2010 (like <50k) to a higher mileage 2013 (100k range). I didn't see anything newer than that pop up, but it would be really hard to reach the mileage on a 2014+ to hit the price point. I'd suggest a 2008-2010 with 75-100k, which you can probably find in the $8,000-$10,000 range depending on where you fall in there. My search included the NH seacoast so I know as of two weeks ago there were some ads in that range. With the money saved you can buy snow tires mounted on steelies from tirerack. I have no Subaru recommendations in that price range because it's not high enough to get into the FA/FB engine models, and the EJ engine models in that price range will probably be 120k+ which means head gasket death zone and you get to play the guessing game as to whether or not the timing belt has been done. That's why I went with the Mazda3. I haven't driven it in the snow, but with snow tires it won't be any worse than any other FWD car.
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Sep 25, 2016 07:18
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Michael Scott posted:This would cost more in the long run? My intention is to finance a car, then sell it. Even if I am a grand or so under water, the total cost of owning that car for 3 years (simplified to car price when I buy it minus car price when I sell it) would be much less than a lease of a nicer vehicle. That doesn't really matter if you always have a $250 car payment or whatever yours usually end up at. E: I guess it does matter if you constantly have a $250 car payment buy are cashing out a few thousand every time you sell your car, but if you're just constantly rolling everything forward, it doesn't matter in the calculations. carticket fucked around with this message at 22:20 on Sep 25, 2016 |
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Sep 25, 2016 22:18
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At the high end of that price range, you might be able to get into a 2008-2009 Mazda3.
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Oct 3, 2016 18:16
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FogHelmut posted:This is in the northeast. Weren't Mazdas of that era known for rusting fairly easily? My understanding, like the previous poster, is that 2008+ does not have the same rust issues. I'm not certain about 2007, though. There were definitely a few specimens in the greater southern NH area close to that price point, but they were 100k+, and I'm not familiar enough with Mazdas to sign up for that (so I went with one that had 61,000 km).
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Oct 3, 2016 19:34
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Is that like the Note 7 of cars, or what?
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Oct 11, 2016 00:33
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Yeah, a bank or credit union isn't going to offer 0% on anything* unless it's one of their products where they will make money in other ways (i.e. a credit card intro rate). *A bank or CU will gladly offer you 0% on a checking or savings account.
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Oct 11, 2016 04:38
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Snow tires are cheaper than AWD, and if you pay for AWD, you'll still need snow tires. I don't really think there's much debate: if you live in an area where it snows and you want to reliably and safely get somewhere in the snow, you need snow tires. Beyond that, yeah, RWD should probably be avoided. AWD will get you out of some spots where other cars might be stuck, but it also responds differently than some people expect in sliding conditions. FWD is dandy. Modern cars have features designed to take the fun or anxiety out of driving in the snow.
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Oct 14, 2016 02:47
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That's kind of a silly tow capacity. My Impreza is rated for 1200 and it's a dinky little thing.
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Oct 21, 2016 00:02
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The bigger weight of an SUV makes it safer in a crash, so everyone should buy SUVs, which makes it just about the same as car v. car crashes, so people shouldn't bother buying SUVs.
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Oct 26, 2016 17:10
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I was listening to one of the Cartalk Remix episodes earlier and they actually recommended a rental car over and off-lease car to buy. I thought that was a bit interesting.
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Oct 29, 2016 18:51
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I think the point Tom and Ray were making was that even with 1/100 totally abusing the car, the car was properly maintained, while a car that came off lease has a good chance that regular maintenance was not done.
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Oct 30, 2016 16:30
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My friend is having twins and he's looking for a car that can fit him with a car seat behind him. Here's liking the CX5, but I figured I'd ask and see if there are any things to watch out for on them. He may go anywhere from 5 years old used to new, so if there are years to stay away from, that's what I'm looking for
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Nov 12, 2016 17:47
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