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Colostomy Bag posted:Interesting, never occured to me they could be rebuilt. Some of them have bolts that allows you to take them apart. Heat them up and the old fluid comes out, I refill them with the correct amount of LSD fluid for RC cars. My mercedes has a slow leak in its fan clutch, but it's a sealed unit. So I drilled out what looks like the fill plug, refilled it, and put a set screw in the hole. Works great now! The internals of fan clutches very rarely fail, either they leak the fluid out, or the fluid breaks down and stops being viscus anymore. Or the bi-metallic strip/spring rusts in half.
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Feb 3, 2021 23:56
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Colostomy Bag posted:Interesting, never occured to me they could be rebuilt. Yup. Did what chrisgt did almost 5 years ago on my farm truck. Its still working fine. E: from the thread  E2: wow this truck was a piece of poo poo. cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 03:46 on Feb 4, 2021 |
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Feb 4, 2021 03:35
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I hit a rock
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Feb 4, 2021 18:33
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Qwijib0 posted:I hit a rock Dwayne Johnson won that round.
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Feb 4, 2021 18:38
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And the Rock won! I fought the rock And the Rock won!
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Feb 4, 2021 18:52
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Nothing a five lb sledge and some jb weld couldn't take care of.
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Feb 4, 2021 19:35
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C-Bangin' it 
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lucky for me this was the default rim for several model years so scrounging a cheap replacement wasn't hard.
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Feb 4, 2021 19:39
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Looks like it sliced the tire too, that must've been a hell of a rock.
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Feb 4, 2021 19:49
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Colostomy Bag posted:Nothing
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Feb 4, 2021 19:51
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Elviscat posted:Looks like it sliced the tire too, that must've been a hell of a rock. 
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Feb 4, 2021 19:54
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Elviscat posted:Looks like it sliced the tire too, that must've been a hell of a rock. It was a large rock the size of a small rock  probably a little bigger than a softball, it was kicked from the shoulder by the car ahead on a 2-lane road without much maneuvering room. There was also snow on the road so I thought it might have been ice. It was not.
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Feb 4, 2021 22:25
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This is more horrible mechanic failure, but still. https://i.imgur.com/1OoUB4c.mp4 Good thing he's in the middle of loving nowhere.
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Feb 4, 2021 23:39
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It was probably trying to escape from the lovely 3.0lt diesel
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Feb 5, 2021 00:32
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Memento posted:This is more horrible mechanic failure, but still. Truck Status: Truely Fuckled
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Feb 5, 2021 00:36
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That almost happened to one of my company's trucks today on the highway. Luckily the passenger was paying attention. The guy, who got called in because someone called in sick was all like "Uhhhhh that doesn't sound good, maybe you should pull over".  
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Feb 5, 2021 01:21
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Memento posted:This is more horrible mechanic failure, but still. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ii8rC6CPCvM
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Feb 5, 2021 01:30
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wesleywillis posted:That almost happened to one of my company's trucks today on the highway. Luckily the passenger was paying attention. Jebus. I had a loose wheel bolt situation on my BMW and it was very audibly obvious long before it was to the point of causing damage, I can't imagine what that must have sounded like.
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Feb 5, 2021 02:20
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wolrah posted:Jebus. I had a loose wheel bolt situation on my BMW and it was very audibly obvious long before it was to the point of causing damage, I can't imagine what that must have sounded like. Years ago, I had just changed from winter to summer tires, and the lugs on one wheel came loose. It sounded like a helicopter hovering directly above my car. These trucks are all sorts of loud and this was a rear wheel, but when I mentioned about my car and a helicopter, dude was all "yeah, pretty much sounded like that". After it happened to me, I started keeping a torque wrench in my trunk, and checking two or three times after a wheel has been removed.
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Feb 5, 2021 02:24
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90% of cases I see where lugs come loose is because someone heard the ugga dugga of a rattle gun and thought it was good. Seems a lot of people misunderstand how both lug nuts and impact guns work. Impacts will start to hammer at finger tight. Misalignment of wheel and stud require a bit of force for the wheel to ride up the ramp a conical seat lug creates. This only applies to the first two lugs. After that point the wheel is aligned and the rest will be tight right when the impact starts to hammer. You have to physically watch the lug, or socket, start to slow before letting off the trigger of the impact to know it's tight. And that's only to know the wheel is actually seated onto the lug. But even then who knows what you torqued it to. I use the rattle gun to seat my wheels so I can lower them onto the ground, then a toque wrench to set the torque once on the ground. Never had to retighten using that method. I swap my wheels maybe 20 times a year for various motorsport.
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Feb 5, 2021 02:45
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wesleywillis posted:Years ago, I had just changed from winter to summer tires, and the lugs on one wheel came loose. It sounded like a helicopter hovering directly above my car. Mine was more or less the same situation, I changed from winter to summer tires right before going to see some friends back in my college town. Pulled in to $friend's neighborhood and heard some odd clicking that was speed-dependent, sure enough three of the five bolts were loose enough to turn with my fingers. I pulled the four way out of my trunk and cranked it down to "gutentight", then re-torqued properly when I got home. Ever since then I keep a torque wrench and appropriate socket for my wheels in my trunk and re-check at my first gas stop after a wheel change.
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Feb 5, 2021 02:49
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I always torque, do a lap around the neighborhood, and then come back to the driveway and re-torque. Also check again after one fillup. Those torque sticks are great, I've checked behind them with the torque wrench a half dozen times and they're always good so long as you give it a few dugs.
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Feb 5, 2021 02:49
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Usually for me its, Torque after doing whatever task requires removal of the wheel. A couple laps around the block or whatever, check again. Check the next day after having driven for a bit, then check a week or so later. Typically I don't notice any looseness after doing the next day check, but I never "feel right" until I do my check the next week.
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Feb 5, 2021 03:06
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Beach Bum posted:I always torque, do a lap around the neighborhood, and then come back to the driveway and re-torque. Also check again after one fillup. I've never had luck with torque sticks. You ever try upping the torque wrench after to see where they do move after? I know static friction means it'll take over the set torque to get it to move but I've always seen them go way over. I think a lot of the wheel torque issues comes from either new wheels or really crusty old rotors.
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Feb 5, 2021 03:42
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Memento posted:This is more horrible mechanic failure, but still. Buddy Lazier'd https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_vQMxHvQKuU
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Feb 5, 2021 03:58
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I don't even like torqueing the lugs with the full weight of the car on the ground, I'll lower it so the tire is just touching and won't slip. Oh, that reminds me, I noticed a broken off stud with a lug nut on it on the road at a light on a bike ride the other day.
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Feb 5, 2021 04:27
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Every spring and fall, you can drive along the highway and see cars here missing at least one wheel after a failed winter/summer tire swap. I don't think the average person even knows they have to torque wheels, versus "crank on it real hard." I gave my dad my old torque wrench after he snapped off a stud on my mom's car.
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Feb 5, 2021 04:41
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Some idiots never use a torque wrench on their lug nuts ever. It's me. I'm some idiots. Never lost a wheel, either... I came close once (extenuating circumstances*, there was ice and mud on the drum surface and once it scrubbed its way out the clamp force was gone) but didn't lose it. I've always put them on, checked again in like 20 miles then again in 100 miles. * That evening loving sucked even before my wheel almost came off
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Feb 5, 2021 05:09
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I have never torqued a lugnut. Closest I came was testing a used air wrench by working up through the torque detents on it, stopping after each one, and applying a lug wrench to gauge how tight it was.
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Feb 5, 2021 05:13
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chrisgt posted:Almost every aftermarket fan clutch is a pile of poo poo, it's pretty much always better to try and rebuild your OEM part or just replace it with OEM. I have never, ever had good luck with any brand of aftermarket fan clutch. The best aftermarket fan clutch is an electric fan mod with new radiator.
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Feb 5, 2021 06:57
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Memento posted:This is more horrible mechanic failure, but still. GU patrols are pretty notorious about having studs break and wheels fall off. This may correlate with the number of cheap petrol GU’s running around with 35” Chinese mud terrains on spray painted stock rims and a P plate in the window.
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Feb 5, 2021 07:31
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Mr. Wiggles posted:The best aftermarket fan clutch is an electric fan mod with new radiator. Those really don't move as much air as people think, it's usually a downgrade from the factory fan clutch honestly, despite the marketing to the contrary.
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Feb 5, 2021 07:42
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Can't they also wreck your alternator?
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Feb 5, 2021 09:10
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I mean maybe? I've never seen a car that didn't have a fuse or fusible link on the B+ lead from the alt, and I'm fairly certain it'll just max out its current output and if that's not enough it's not enough and your battery will slowly die, but who knows, I certainly haven't seen em all yet.
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Feb 5, 2021 09:57
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Mr. Wiggles posted:The best aftermarket fan clutch is an electric fan mod with new radiator. The CFM rating on nearly all electric fans is a complete load of horse poo poo. They take a CFM meter and wave it around until they get the largest number and bam, that's the rating (or they outright make it up). Just look at a clutch fan vs an electric fan, the clutch fan has blades that are like 3 times longer and a much higher angle of attack, there's absolutely no way an electric fan can move that much air. That said, I have added an aux electric fan in conjunction with the mechanical fan because it generally helps the AC work better at low speeds.
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Feb 5, 2021 11:56
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chrisgt posted:The CFM rating on nearly all electric fans is a complete load of horse poo poo. They take a CFM meter and wave it around until they get the largest number and bam, that's the rating (or they outright make it up). I was about to suggest a pulse jet, but on second thoughts that might be a bit warm. Maybe a total loss liquid nitrogen drip cooling system? Can’t be worse or more expensive than trying to get functional parts for old British cars.
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Feb 5, 2021 12:08
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Vindolanda posted:Can’t be worse or more expensive than trying to get functional parts for old British cars. well once you've figured out what the gently caress is the go with grounding on +ve, nothing can stop you
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Feb 5, 2021 12:21
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I remember the electric fan on my dad's 924 drove him insane because it would only start once the temp gauge reached the red mark. He later added a switch to bypass the sensor and keep the fan always on when he wasn't driving at speed. I found this odd until I got my yamaha R6 with a digital temp gauge and everytime i stopped in traffic I got anxious about the thermometer reading 101..102..103... Oh fan comes on... 99...98...97 fan goes out.
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Feb 5, 2021 12:45
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Maybe it's my burnout car background speaking but I would throw every clutch fan into the sea on anything even remotely performancey. You gain a fair few horses swapping to electric and they defs move enough air to keep some fairly hairy cars cool.
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Feb 5, 2021 13:37
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Memento posted:well once you've figured out what the gently caress is the go with grounding on +ve, nothing can stop you I have a 6v positive ground car. It's a mindfuck doing anything with the electrical system on that. Fortunately there isn't much electrical system... No blinkers, no reverse lights... It has running lights, brake lights, headlights, blower motor, and electric wipers (a big deal in the 50's). That's about it, unless you want to fight with the mechanical generator regulator.
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Feb 5, 2021 13:40
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chrisgt posted:I have a 6v positive ground car. It's a mindfuck doing anything with the electrical system on that. Fortunately there isn't much electrical system... No blinkers, no reverse lights... It has running lights, brake lights, headlights, blower motor, and electric wipers (a big deal in the 50's). That's about it, unless you want to fight with the mechanical generator regulator. I used to have an MG that had been converted to a more conventional grounding setup. Usually someone adds a plate by the bonnet latch saying “this car has been converted to negative ground”. Took it to a specialist mechanic and he showed me where he’d added “maybe” in marker to a load of cars brought in by people he thought looked like aspiring amateur electricians.
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Feb 5, 2021 13:47
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