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I do hope that mini is ok  As long as the frame isnt bent it should be, I hope. I had a similar thing happen over winter, a load of snow came off the roof in winter, right ontop of one of my minis. Crushed the roof in completley.Luckily the shell is still straight, so its fixable
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Feb 9, 2011 19:00
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Jefinabox posted:I became a victim of the crappy potholes that seem to be everywhere at the minute. Full damage inspection tomorrow, should be fun Oof, as a fellow Mini owner you have my sympathies  Potholes on our road are ridiculous, the council came along and "filled" them. By that I mean they put a spoonful of it in each hole, so the holes are just slightly-less deep. Bloody council.
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Mar 27, 2013 02:19
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In our Peugeot 306 it's held down with a real awkward bracket that grabs the battery by the base, you need at least 1 socket extension to slide down between the batt and the inner wing to get at he bolt. Bonus since its then at bottom of the tray it'll typically rust to hell leaving you with a dead battery stuck in place. Then when you do get it replaced the new battery has a slightly different base that doesn't fit the grip and you end up with an mot certificate like mine with the warning "battery loose but secure". On the flip side our other vehicle, land rover defender, has a bare metal bar that you have to clamp over the top running parallel to the terminals, I make drat sure it's down tight as it'd all too happily slide over and bridge them.
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Oct 23, 2016 22:46
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Reminds me of a few people in the classic Mini community, took their cars in to have alarms fitted (because it's only thatcham approved and thus counts on insurance if it's fitted by a "pro") only to hare brand new wiring looms completely botched by ham fisted "electricians". Pretty sure the answer was to bribe them with beer to do a good job. But still, I've never trusted others with my cars wiring since.
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Nov 25, 2016 21:17
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Tomarse posted:Landrover have a similar issue on one of the diesel engines where engine oil can get into the wiring via part of the injector loom and can then make its way right through the loom back to the ECU connector, before getting into the ECU and causing issues in there. I love that one, I think it was freelanders that suffer from it? Would wick the leak all the way up the loom to under the drivers seat where important stuff lived. Iirc some freelanders also have a problem where they don't shut off if you hold the brake pedal down. Something to do with electricity leaking from lit break light circuit into the fuel solonoid that keep it pumping and running?
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Nov 29, 2016 15:24
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My personal Worst spare wheel location award goes to: Peugeot 306. 15 years of doing muddy lanes, everything underneath the car well and truly seized with mud. Spare wheel is located under the car in a cage, cage is lowered by turning a bolt in the boot. But not an average bolt. A wierd oval headed bolt with a curved concave slot along its shortest section. Special unique fit for the butt end of the wheel wrench. You're supposed to use it like a screwdriver with the socket end pointed at the sky and the handle slots into the bolt. Imagine a giant rounded - off flat head, with a bolt style thread and just to make it harder have it be seized up with 15 years of mud as the spare had never even been looked at so the mechanism was probably unmoved since it left the factory. Add to this that the end of the wheel brace was a bit scraped up from having to lower the vehicle onto it to use its weight as leverage to cracking the wheel nuts free. Honestly it's like they tried to make the worst fitting interface on something that even when new would have required reasonable force to get free. Additionally you can force the wrench to fit in the slot sideways rather than pointing upward. But since you're trying to undo a seized bolt with essentially a round tube fitted in a rounded slot, you need a lot of downwards pressure keep it in. Hope you enjoy scraping your knuckles repeatedly across the corrugated boot floor pan for hours as you manage to turn the bolt about 1/8th of a turn per knuckle scrape. After hours of swearing at it, I managed to get it free like the caveman I am by bending the cage enough to pop free using a large rock I found in a nearby field.
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Apr 24, 2017 14:21
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SEKCobra posted:Why are you using a 15 year old wheel? Also did you never get new tires in 15 years? I'd had a full set about 2 years previous to needing the spare, but honestly I was real dumb and had never bothered replacing the spare. I used it for about half an hour in total, limped home in it for a cuppa tea then over to the garage once they'd ordered the tyres in. Spare tyre was junked and replaced with the 1 good front tyre I had left. I got part worns too, as sure enough about a week later I got another metal rod through a tyre. They were relaying the road surface on the lane I went down daily. But the stuff they use is just crushed up concrete and debris so it's filled with metal rebar and such for about a month each time they do it. I usually take the dog for a walk and pick up all the bits as I walk down, usually a good 50 or so bits of metal scrap waiting to leap into my tyres.
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Apr 24, 2017 17:41
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Just to add to my earlier complaints about punctures, went out a minute ago to find one of my rear tyres totally devoid of air. So I guess it'll be a full new set in my future, once I can change the dead tyre for my spare. I swear my car must have read my post and been like "you what mate?" And punctured itself.
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Apr 25, 2017 19:24
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I think in the UK it's still law to have an actual spare wheel. But we get those dumb safety spare ones that are super skinny usually and made with strict limits on speed/mileage I think. Sitrep: pumped up the tyre and it's lasted me home at 15mph, bucketing down with hail and rain so didn't fancy putting the spare on. I did however pack a big hammer, small hammer and a chisel my boot incase I need to persuade the spare tyre cage to drop.
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Apr 25, 2017 20:30
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 12:37 |
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Waaaay back when the Internet was younger there's used to be a website that documented someone converting a classic mini to electric power by using an old milk float. Now keep in mind a classic mini is an a - series engine, block on top with gearbox on he bottom with a sump and sharing the oil. What they did was to fit a flat sheet to the gearbox with a small entry for the chain/belt/gear/whatever they used to connect the motor to the gearbox. End result was a classic mini powered by a milk float engine but retaining the standard 4 + Reverse gearbox. It was a thing to behold. It did have a massive amount of batteries mounted somewhere irrc due to the technology limits of the time.
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Jan 30, 2018 01:46
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