|
Oil starvation to the top of a 1.8T Passat resulted in this: That's an intake cam broken at the journal. Here's a pic of the bearing cap (the bearing is integral):  Sorry if the images are too large.
|
#
¿
Mar 17, 2010 04:21
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 26, 2024 18:46 |
|
|
^ Hahahah! It's like if this thread had a Muppet. We've got a couple of destroyed dual-mass flywheels at work too. I'll snap a couple of pictures this week.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 18, 2010 01:11
|
|
|
jamal posted:
I've heard of shops doing this so many times and it blows my mind every time. I mean, it's such an important and simple step.
|
|
#
¿
May 1, 2010 17:10
|
|
|
14 INCH DICK TURBO posted:I can't wait to get home to upload a picture I just took at work. 02 passat came in running rough with an oil leak. Stay tuned for the next episode of How the gently caress did that get there Theater. Tell me it's a TDI Passat.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 18, 2011 02:03
|
|
|
Sorry, no pics for this but a TT came in on the hook early this week. Customer said that the car was running fine on the highway, the oil light started flashing, and the engine started making a loud noise so he pulled over and called for a tow. When I spoke the the tow truck driver he laughed and told me that the customer had told him that the oil light came on and he continued to drive for another 40 minutes before the engine quit. The car wouldn't start or even turn over - I could only hear the starter grunt but nothing else. Once I had the car on my lift I found a hole in the oil pan (obviously from an impact) and the whole undercarriage was covered in oil. I could see into the oil pan through the hole and it was pretty obvious that something terrible had happened - there were piles of what looked like tinfoil in there. With the oil pan removed it became obvious what had happened - the engine had starved for oil and welded the big end of cylinder 1's connecting rod right to the the crank. The tinfoil in the pan was the remains of the main and rod bearings. The top of the motor had oil-starved which ruined the cams and head plus the turbo had about 1/4" of radial play so it was also destroyed. My service advisor called the customer with the early estimate (a cool $12,000) and the customer told her that the reason he didn't stop was because it was snowing too hard and he didn't want to stop.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 12, 2011 00:07
|
|
|
el topo posted:That's quite a "never give up, never think things through" attitude... I must say, though, I'm surprised at how much that engine costs. Well, the longblock is about $9000 plus turbo and hardware on it's own. The main problem is that a new or reman 1.8T (225 HP) engine from VW has to be ordered specially from Germany now since it's not currently in production. From what I could tell, the oil pan took a hit right on the bottom edge of the drain plug itself which caused a split right above it. It's not hard to crack the pan on that engine, it's made of an aluminum alloy that's really light but very brittle. All the guy had to do was pull over as soon as the oil light came on and he would still have his TT on the road.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 13, 2011 16:51
|
|
|
I had yet another 2.0T Audi A4 in the shop with a destroyed HP fuel pump this week but this one was a little more horrible than most - the shrapnel from the pump destroyed all the cam bearings in the head so I replaced it with an Audi reman unit. Road test was fine - no problems, oil pressure and temps perfect until I pulled into the shop parking lot and the car quit with no warning. Attempts to crank resulted in the starter saying "ungh" and the engine not rotating. With the trans in 6th gear we could push the car about a foot and the engine would lock. At first I suspected a hydrolocked cylinder but all bores were dry. Pulled the head looking for some piston-valve contact or a dropped valve - nope. Cams would rotate freely with the head removed so it was something in the tranny or the rotating assembly. When I dropped the oil pan I found the problem - the high pressure oil pump helical gears had jammed due to a small piece of flashing that must have been left over from when the head was remanufactured. When they jammed, the crankshaft kept turning long enough to snap the chain drive to the pump where it then wrapped back around the pump sprocket and jammed the engine. To make matters worse, the drive sprocket on the crankshaft was ruined too. Oil pump/balancer assembly: $1700 Crankshaft: $800 Gaskets+hardware to re-install both: $300 Labor to re/re crank and pump: 10ish hours At this point, Audi Goodwill agreed to replace the longblock which I will be installing on Monday. Longblock price (includes everything but the exhaust mani/turbo and timing belt/tensioner): $6000 plus less labor than to re/re the crank. I though I had some pics on my phone but they didn't turn out very clear - I'll get some better ones tomorrow.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 17, 2011 16:18
|
|
|
Beast Pussy posted:You say the check engine light is flashing in your VW? Passat or A4?
|
|
#
¿
May 28, 2011 17:14
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 26, 2024 18:46 |
|
|
trouser chili posted:Are metal valve caps causing problems with these? I keep getting corrosion/failure of the threads on the valve on my Mazda5. The dealer just keeps replacing them under warranty. We see this problem on Touaregs all the time and it's usually the result of a metal cap OR salt inclusion that weakens the valve stem and causes it to fail. We try to pack each valve stem with grease to help prevent the problem in the winter time.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 2, 2011 23:32
|
|