blambert posted:

This is the best

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RuUya0fimmQ

4/20 NEVER FORGET posted:

Sockington posted:

250fwhp and a Mazda G-series FWD transmission;










Goodbye 3rd gear and the diff.

Sockington posted:

So here's how they fail;

1. Diff pin fails
a) To fix, weld diff pin and replace w/ a welded MSP diff or a mFactory one

2. Second or Third gear shreds to pieces (as pictured)
a) To fix, replace w/ expensive aftermarket set or swap in a new gear box

3. The power causes the aluminium case to flex between shifts as power is re-applied (second to third usually) and the shafts destroy their mounting points inside the transmission.
a)To fix this, a thick plate is machined to fit where the shafts meet the 1/4" aluminium mounting point on the transmission.



Or to fix all of this, you simply replace the G-series with a Toyota E-series from a FWD Solara or a AWD Celica (if you have an AWD BG chassis car.)

N183CS posted:

C130's are loving strong machines.

InterceptorV8 posted:

Don't.

I think if that didn't happen, he would have rigged it to happen.

Crazed_Capybara_Rider posted:

This is how you break a transfer case


Click here for the full 1280x960 image.



Click here for the full 1280x960 image.


And your rear end


Click here for the full 1024x768 image.

loving 2000 Durango. Shittiest thing I ever owned. I put a new rear end in, a new transfer case, and then the transmission blew.

rscott posted:

did you fill your radiator with nacho cheese or something

peepsalot posted:

A "High flow" cat after use. Sorry for blurry phone camera pic.

From what I've seen they all fall apart eventually, blocking up exhaust and causing poo poo performance.

some texas redneck posted:

Pretty tame, but I don't think I've ever had a motor mount do this before.



My car is no longer a 4 wheeled vibrator.

peepsalot posted:

This was a while back, and maybe you already found out yourself, but your LSD split in half. It happens to every Mazdaspeed Protege, including mine. I recommend you get an aftermarket replacement from MFactory, cause the quaife's are loving expensive as poo poo.

Getn Rod atAnimecon posted:

This happened a few months ago to my protege. Is it an easy fix or do I have to use a jackstand and an engine lift?

peepsalot posted:

Dude, the wastegate is a freakin metal flap on a hinge. It should be pretty easy to diagnose what is wrong. Either it got bent somehow, or there is some debris/gunk in the way. I would not recommend spending 3k without at least trying to fix it first.



I've even seen someone go so far as to cut off the stock flap, bore out the hole and weld in a bigger flap, in an effort to reduce boost creep. It can be fixed.

MikeyTsi posted:

This is probably something where a picture would serve best. There's something out of spec or bent that's probably causing your problem, and it's likely really easy and cheap to fix.

NitroSpazzz posted:

Out supercomputer cabinets are liquid cooled with radiators above and below the computer modules. The r134a from these radiators is cycled back to a heat exchanger which uses chilled water to control the temp of the refrigerant. The whole system (4 cabinets and 1 heat exchanger) is charged with ~250 pounds of r134a.

Nerobro posted:

I don't see what the apollo 1 fire has to do with this at all. They were running a ground test at +something psi on top of 14.7psi at sea level. So they were in a super concentrated pure o2 atmosphere.

insta posted:

That was the tires.

Two Finger posted:

Do you own anything that doesn't rust?

CommieGIR posted:

Its gone from suck, to blow!

Root Bear posted:

Had this little gem dropped off last week, the owner said he "just needs the rear lower shock mount re-welded".




Ummm...

haxality posted:

I don't want to be a downer, but have some insane footage of the Reno Air Race crash.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HExCjKpQNH0

Paul Boz_ posted:

Just got replacing the motor mounts on my wife's 2002 Mazda Protege... Let me just say that this one was the worst offender..

EightBit posted:

I live in south Texas and my Jeep's A/C fan won't spin (the blower itself is fine but the knobs or wiring is hosed elsewhere), even days where it gets to 105 F I get by just fine without massive sweating. Maybe you people just need to take your doors off

Nerobro posted:

I doubt you could get it hot enough to sustain fire while being actively air cooled.

And i wanna see an engine melt down :-)

meatpimp posted:

Hella toe, the new stance.

Micromancer posted:

I'm amazed you arent strutting about because of the bomb pun you dropped.

Root Bear posted:

2006 Ford Explorer. "There's a clunking noise in the rear."






Good to see that Ford at least learned how to make springs that won't puncture a tire when they shatter completely.

General_Failure posted:

I thought thermostats used a bimetal spring. Shows how much attention I've paid to them.

Boat posted:

Drag racing thing. They literally fill half the block's water passages with cement (or a purpose made substance) to strengthen it. The decreased cooling isn't much of a concern when you're only going flat out for a 1/4 mile at a time.

Groda posted:

Nothing failed here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q_0xifuTqVA

Fairbanks-Morse model 32D stationary engine with an interesting exhaust setup...

some texas redneck posted:

Reading the story behind that just made me nauseated. And irate as hell.