grover posted:

How long were you driving on it flat before the sidewall failed like that?

sharkytm posted:

Hints and allegations?

Jonny 290 posted:

$500 black rattlecanned 4 door 77 nova. First road trip away from home. Hot Springs, AR to Chicago, for a giiiiiirl with nothing but $300 in cash to my name.

Around St. Louis I brake hard and blew a rear brake cylinder. Pedal mush.

Eventually I figure out that I can pump it up and somewhat slow down, for a bit, with the assistance of downshifting and e-brake. Managed to make it without incident - I left at 5pm and this all happened overnight, so traffic was light, got there without incident at about 4am. The next morning we traipsed down to the nearest parts store and i got the silly $14 part and changed it in her driveway while basically teaching myself how drum brakes work. Still miss that fuckin' car sometimes.

atomicthumbs posted:

DrPain posted:

Mazda 3

Farking Bastage posted:

The MazdaSpeed 3's are apparently bad to break motor mounts.

Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:

I dunno what's going on with those cars but I see them blown out on old bikes all the time. Except they're not blown out from any excess current, and you can't see that they're blown out, because they're disconnected inside the metal end caps for unknown reasons. And the socket connectors they snap into frequently break.

Collateral Damage posted:

Why's that, out of curiosity?

dietcokefiend posted:

On that same note I wish I took a picture of it, but I saw a fairly new Mazda 3 that was rusting out to an extreme level. The third brake light in the trunk lid was heavily rusted and perforating, and both rear wheel fender lips were jagged from rust. It was like someone dipped the back of the car in acid. How the gently caress does a car that has only been existing for a few years show more rust than many cars built in the late 80's or 90's in such a short timespan?

Is stuff like galvanized steel not common on asian imports?

Geoj posted:

^
Seems like all Mazdas of that vintage have rust issues. My wife's '03 6 has a pretty bad patch in the passenger side quarter panel and I've seen plenty of other 6s with the same problem.

Das Volk posted:

That poo poo cray.

InitialDave posted:

They tried making it RWD with a live axle, but you wouldn't believe what kept happening to the pumpkin.

Farking Bastage posted:

In response to all the gently caress You pictures of Broken off extractors, an oldie, but goodie:



HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate expensive parts not far from the object we are trying to hit.

MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on boxes containing seats and motorcycle jackets.

ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning steel Pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age, but it also works great for drilling mounting holes in fenders just above the brake line that goes to the rear wheel.

PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads.

HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board
principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.

VISE-GRIPS: Used to round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

OXYACETELENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your garage on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside a hub you're trying to get the bearing race out of.

WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older British cars and motorcycles, they are now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16 or 1/2 socket you've been searching for the last 15 minutes.

DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, splattering it against that freshly painted part you were drying.

WIRE WHEEL: Cleans rust off old bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprint whorls and hard-earned guitar calluses in about the time it takes you to say, "Ouc...."

HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering your car to the ground after you have installed your new front disk brake setup, trapping the jack handle firmly under the front fender.

EIGHT-FOOT LONG DOUGLAS FIR 2X4: Used for levering the fender upward off a hydraulic jack.

TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters.

PHONE: Tool for calling your neighbor to see if he has another hydraulic floor jack.

SNAP-ON GASKET SCRAPER: Theoretically useful as a sandwich tool for spreading mayonnaise; used mainly for getting dog-**** off your boot.

E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool that snaps off in bolt holes and is ten times harder than any known drill bit.

TIMING LIGHT: A stroboscopic instrument for illuminating grease buildup.

TWO-TON HYDRAULIC ENGINE HOIST: A handy tool for testing the tensile strength of ground straps and fuel lines you may have forgotten to disconnect.

CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 16-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A large motor mount prying tool that has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end without the handle.

BATTERY ELECTROLYTE TESTER: A handy tool for transferring sulfuric acid from a car battery to the inside of your toolbox after determining that your battery is dead as a doornail, just as you thought.

AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw.

TROUBLE LIGHT: The mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called a drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin," which is not otherwise found under race cars at night. Health benefits aside, it's main purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about the same rate as a 25mm chain gun.
More often dark than light, its name is somewhat misleading.

PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the lids of old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splash oil on your shirt; can also be used, as the name implies, to round off Phillips screw heads.

AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that travels by hose to a Chicago Pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty bolts last tightened 40 years ago by someone in Detriot and rounds them off.

PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.

HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to cut hoses 1/2 inch too short.

12MM WRENCH: A tool that comes in handy when you need to weld a brace between the positive terminal on your alternator and the engine block, when you forget to disconnect the battery.

SPIRO LOCK: A spring like, tightly wound, carbon steel retainer used primarily to gouge forged pistons. Alternatively, the tool of choice for administering multiple fingertip lacerations.

FatCow posted:

I had a buddy with some kind of small Japanese sedan who had 300k on the clutch.

Farking Bastage posted:

Content:

I had a little mishap involving a stray dog and my WRX.



That bumper cover is just hanging there on the passenger side. All the supports and plastic bits underneath are gone. Also has a foot and a half long crack in it.

SouthsideSaint posted:

Are you friends with sperglordfirecock on facebook. Cause that sounds like him completely.

kastein posted:

If those are spotwelded or pressed in studs, just yank em out and put bolts and washers through from the top. Grade 8, please.

If they are MIG welded in, you can still do that, it'll just involve an angle grinder or die grinder and patience instead of 30 seconds with your largest drift punch and hammer.

kastein posted:

From the general look of things and the description of the noises, that shock has been wandering around freely in the tower banging into things as hard as a shock normally does, so I think he can probably forgo the usual punch-and-hammer rustbelt rot dowsing.

BloodBag posted:

How in the gently caress does one chew through ball joints that fast? Was he rallying with SiF or something?

Preoptopus posted:

I just finished a timing belt/waterpump job on a pt cruiser and couldn't really test drive it because the ball joint was ready to fall out but the customer didn't wanna fix it. Also failing strut mounts, tie rods, and bearing.

Geirskogul posted:

How the gently caress do you have a 97 Ram with only 30k?

Fart Pipe posted:

I took this pic last year



Also the cat was bad at 12k so I replaced it. It was clogged and woudnt go more than like 60mph, then found out like a week later that there was a recall for it and I could have had it replaced for nothing.

DiggityDoink posted:

This is just as much poor ownership decisions as it is a mechanical failure.


Found while washing it today. It's probably actually been broken for a while now and I only noticed because I last hit the brakes going backwards before I parked it, usually it's straight into the garage. Thankfully it wasn't out on the highway that I found out about it.

Seat Safety Switch posted:

I don't see what the big deal is, Harley owners never use their front brake anyway.

Enourmo posted:

ummm.... if u use the front brakes on a bike... u'll flip.... be safe and just use the rears....

(things I have actually been told by bikers)

rainwulf posted:

Are you serious.. that there is a seriously human failure. Who the gently caress believes that...

n0tqu1tesane posted:

Alabama just passed a law last May requiring motorcycle riders to have a motorcycle endorsement on their license. It goes into effect on January 1, 2016.

Prior to this, there was no requirement to have a motorcycle license to operate a motorcycle within the state. The test and endorsement were offered so you can legally operate a motorcycle in other states, but one was not required to operate within state lines.

IOwnCalculus posted:

ATTN AI GOONS: Did your piece-of-poo poo OS cause your hard drive to physically eject a platter through the side of your case and into your shin? No? Then it's not a horrible mechanical failure.

Geirskogul posted:

Don't know about that story, but there are real, documented cases of people suffocating while being in the rooms the chains are stored, as their oxidation removes most of the oxygen from the air.

http://www.scotsman.com/news/ship-safety-failures-by-owner-led-to-suffocation-of-three-men-1-1040331

http://maritimeaccident.org/library2/the-case-of-the-rusty-assassin/

ShittyPostmakerPro posted:

Cocoa Crispies posted:

You mean the"FIAT" logo?

Godholio posted:

The photo quality is so bad it actually does look more like a Caddy badge.

Enourmo posted:

Suspension, apparently.

Sagebrush posted:

I don't know, I once heard about a guy from Germany who was a pretty charismatic public speaker