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Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011


AlternateAccount posted:

Is there any chance at all that the bike might just settle back on its rear wheel or is he about to lose a lot of arm skin?

It happened in the middle of a stoppie, so he's going to lose some arm skin, and maybe a few vertebrae.

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Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011


Wouldn't that be...driver's side?

But yeah, Oldsmobiles from that era like to rust everywhere, for no reason. *~Ask me how I know~*

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011


GnarlyCharlie4u posted:



What am I looking at here? Obviously a disc brake rotor, but with a pad plate stuck inside? And why is the inside of the rotor greasy? It looks like the inside of a wheel bearing.

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011


Maker Of Shoes posted:

Did a Neon kick your dog or something? Just curious.

The Chrysler Neon is simply the worst car in the entire world, nothing more. I mean, Hitler didn't hurt me personally, but I still loathe the guy, so I can see why he rages on the Neon.

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011


Breast Pussy posted:

Its cool that you guys hate a small, light car with the wheels at the corners which has proven to be a very effective track car in ACR and homebuilt-modified trim.

Wikipedia posted:

Safety

The first generation Neon earned a "Poor" rating in an offset frontal Crash test conducted by the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety . The second generation Neon earned a higher "Marginal" rating. The second generation were rated as "Poor" in the side impact crash test[5] (IIHS Safety ratings go from "Poor", to "Marginal", "Acceptable" and "Good"). Only the Chevrolet Cavalier performed worse in the small car category in 2005, the Neon's final year.[6] Other cars made from 2000 to 2005 which were rated "Poor" when tested without optional side airbags included the Ford Focus, Toyota Corolla, Toyota Prius, Mitsubishi Lancer, and Chevrolet Cobalt. No small car made in this period, tested without side airbags, achieved better than a "Poor."[7]
In 2005, the Institute carried out side impact tests on 14 small car models, simulating an impact with an SUV. Among these, the Neon performed the worst. IIHS stated that the Neon had “...major problems beginning with its structure. This car is a disaster...The structure is poor...If this had been a real driver in a real crash, it’s likely it wouldn’t have been survivable...if safety is a priority, the Neon is a small car to be avoided.”[8]
Second generation headrests were rated as "Poor".[9]
Driver deaths fatality risks statistics — published by the IIHS — rated the Neon and 15 other vehicles among the "Highest rates of driver deaths.", The Neon had 161 driver deaths per million registered vehicle deaths, while the average for the Neon class (4-door small) was 103. Other small cars on the list included the Acura RSX (202), Kia Spectra hatchback (191), and the Mitsubishi Eclipse (169).[10]
[edit]References


Unless you modify them with a full-body rollcage, they'll apparently also kill you if you're simply in the vicinity.


VVVVVVVV You're a goddamned moron for thinking like that, I'm sorry. You're essentially saying that you don't care if the car itself is horrible because the car doesn't make it a bad car.

Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 07:11 on Aug 21, 2011

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011


Is it on fire?

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011


kastein posted:



drum brakes are the devil.

Drum brakes are stupidly simple, and they make perfect emergency stop brakes, especially if they're TLS and not SLS. I don't understand all the hate. I mean, I still prefer discs 99% of the time, but don't run away and cower in fear when a drum brake shows it's face.

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011


Slack Motherfucker posted:

What in the gently caress?

Dude, that's like 1,400 points in Tony Hawk. Totally nailed the trick at the end of the uphill grind.

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011


Those SLAB batteries don't last too long even under normal operation. There's a reason fire panel codes require them to be replaced yearly (same models of batteries in fire panels - my father installs them for a living, and my house has a UPS on almost every outlet). I even use one in my (non-e-start) motorcycle.

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011


Boogeyman posted:

That battery came out of a UPS system that had been running some of our servers at work for about 6 or 7 years straight. There were four batteries in that unit, each the size of a car battery. Every one of them looked like that. I'm not real sure how it managed to keep limping along.

Just barely. Puffiness like that usually happens when cells short or other things. For fun, put a meter on them and see what their standing voltage is.

The good news is that, if you find the right supplier, even the bigger ones like that can be had for relatively cheap. Most places online want close to $80 for one of the smaller 12 or even 7AH versions, but the local supplier for my dad's security company sells them for $15 to a business, or $20 individually. Yours looks like a...TR55-12? http://www.batteryspec.com/html/FireAlarm.html

Unless you already knew all this, then disregard and move on.

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011


atomicthumbs posted:

My UPS functioned as nothing but a glorified power conditioner when I picked it up off the sidewalk. Its main function is to make a horrible squealing noise to let me know that the power is fluctuating or going out. I'm afraid to open it up because the battery probably no longer resembles its original form.

You don't want expensive devices plugged into some lovely UPS that has a melted/bulging battery in it, and most UPS's have pretty easy (a few screws at most) access to replace the battery. Also, batteries can be cheap (as I noted earlier).


Why live with the risk of damaging everything plugged into it?

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011


Cakefool posted:

Thanks for that, I didn't follow any bed in procedure when they were replaced like 6 months ago but the vibration only showed up after I e-stopped for an accident. I'll try to find this mythical straight road I can 1-60-1 repeatedly on without causing an accident.

Unless you've got a 3-cyl Geo, 15-60-15 (don't drop too low and stop accidentally) can be done in a standard wal*mart parking lot after they close (if you've got a non-24 hour one) or anything of that size.

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011


I looked at it and initially started going "well yeah, it needs to be re-welded," then mine eyes fell upon thee bolt, just hanging out welded to the rear shock mount.

'sup, bolt.

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011


Millstone posted:

At least the bolt isn't a loving tie-down strap

I've been in, and driven, cars that were temporarily held together with things like that. When you're poor, and in the land of rednecks, it happens quite frequently. As long as you do it right, I don't see a HUGE issue. (right = the least-un-safest way out of the collection of unsafe ways you're going to have to go about the problem).

Key word is temporarily, though.

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011


Vanagoon posted:

I've posted about this before but It's worth noting again that the Ford 300 I6 was used in this loving thing.



I mean look at it. It has a god drat solid steel Jason mask for a grille. They used these at FedEx when I worked there to push, pull, tow, drag, and do violence upon anything that needed it. I saw them run into poo poo so hard they stalled the engine, and they started her back up and kept going. I saw another guy ram into a concrete pillar, and stand on the accelerator while the knobby tires dug a hole in the asphalt.

Tug = loving unbreakable. An excellent platform for building your Mad Max Murder Wagon upon.

http://www.omegaaviation.com/baggag...w_pull_bar.html

I'm sorry, this is the mechanical failure thread, not the mechanical awesome thread.

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011


Cakefool posted:

Those pictures would qualify as 'break pads' to me

No guys, conjugate. "Broken" pads.

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011


Oil on headlamps causes problems because of spot heating/cooling caused by the oil potentially causing thermal shock in the oil, a very different scenario than brake pads.


As for brake pads and rotors, unless you've just been refereeing a bikini mud+lithium grease wrestling match before you change your pads, you're fine. Human oils won't cause problems on pads for two reasons: one, there is VERY little of it, even if you rub the pad on your greasy face before installation; and two, it has a very low flash point, and will be burned off pretty much the first time you use your brakes.


I mean, take all the safety precautions you want to (gloves keep grease/oil off of your hands anyway, and they're carcinogens, so it's good to keep them off in and of itself) but you don't necessarily need to. Don't let that stop you from being absolutely safe, though. Nothing wrong with that.

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011


ratbert90 posted:

I.. I don't think the pushrod is supposed to look like that. Ford V8s run off of magic.

Magic and stubbornness.

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011


Epic Fail Guy posted:

That can't be good for an engine.

I know for a fact that this is how two of our local mechanics perform their "engine cleaning service," the only difference being that they have a machine attached to the oil drain pan that vacuums/drains the oil out after it's done running. They talk about the machine like it flushes/circulates the oil, which is BS - it's not even running during the "service."

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011


ratbert90 posted:

Nope, I fixed it and it wasn't anything big.

For the future (and because Google seems to love SA as of late) what was the problem? For future generations, like when you search for a computer problem, and someone has the exact same issue as you, but all they say down the forum thread is "nvm I fixed it."

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011


ZombieLicker posted:

1998 ford taurus front right inner brake pad.



Hey I remember where I left my socket wrench when I changed the wheel now.

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011


Man, somebody managed to break an Intrepid . One with fairly new tires, even. Always liked those cars (parents owned two - no problems with the first one until mom ran a red light and shortened it by a few feet, second one has lasted forever with no issues). I love the "spray" of grease; "money shot" indeed.

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011


Micromancer posted:

Managed to break? The only ones I can find used are all blown head gasket nightmares.

And I've seen them go 300k with no issues, but that doesn't mean they all will. Anecdotes =/= data in either case

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011


The funny part is, those rubber boots on everything look really new.

Did they drive it into the salt lake or something? Or is this just a casualty of salting roads? Where I live they use sand and gravel, never salt, so I don't really know.

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011


EightBit posted:

What is that that fell off?

The steering/swaybar, it looks like

Edit: VVVVVVV Holy poo poo you're right.

Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 06:17 on Oct 12, 2011

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011


BlackMK4 posted:

Who would leave that by a dumpster? If that poo poo happened to me I'd be hanging the broken wheel on my wall.

Not if the wheel broke because you ran into a pothole/cat/ditch

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011


A good habit to get in to, if feasible, is to turn the engine over by hand with your alternator or balancer or something after doing head work like injectors, plugs, valves, etc just to be sure it goes smoothly. Not completely necessary, but on the few transverse FWD engines I've worked on one of the pulleys was placed well enough that I could spin it around a few times just to check, usually the alternator or PS pump.


Again, not required, but in the uber-rare chance you have dropped something or spilled something down into a cylinder, hand-cranking will cause less damage than the starter motor.


Advice obviously void on certain engine configurations and scenarios, IANAM, etc etc

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011


I did not think blocks would shatter like that when dropped, but I honestly (honestly) don't know.

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011


RapeWhistle posted:

Nobody gives a poo poo about it except for you. Make another thread about it so you can get laughed at.

Am I missing something?

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011


Geoj posted:

By "fine" they must mean didn't require any major surgery, there's quite a bit of blood on/around the driver's seat. Either way the driver is one lucky bastard.

That's oil/water poo poo from the steel bits.


Also, those pictures are nightmare fuel, I will never hang around or tailgate a load-carrying truck for the rest of my life.

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011


Before they junk the vans you pull the 3.0 V6, right? A Mitsubishi engine shouldn't have to suffer for a Chrysler shortfall (yes, I know, Chrysler redesigned the intake, made it non-interference, etc etc; point stands).



Though that "repair" plate scares the bejeesus out of me. There are vans running around with their front suspension attached soley to aftermarket plates? With that kind of corrosion?

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011


SimulatedWoodgrain posted:

What I don't get about that "repair" plate is that it is cut out for the factory strut mount bolts... why not make it go over them so then you are at least bolting the strut mount to something more structurally sound then rust? If that was the case and it was welded in place I could see it being a viable solution... or at least long term band-aid.

You see, if you make it so the struts mount to the plate itself, you could open yourself up for more liability than just a simple reinforcing plate. When the strut fails attached to the old, rusted car body, it's the car's fault, not your (the retarded reinforcing plate manufacturer's) fault.

At least, that's how I see it.

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011


SimulatedWoodgrain posted:

I guess if they are concerned about liability why make it in the first place?

To make money off of dumb people, which is also coincides quite nicely with the people who buy every other thing out of a JC Whitney catalog for their Plymouth Voyager.

The question you should be asking is "Why bother concerning yourself with liability when you can make money all the same?" It's the American Way

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011


Nerobro posted:

"Spare the rod..."

The car thought to itself. I mean, it has seven other ones, why does it need to carry an eight around. So the car decided to do something it had been thinking about for awhile, and let the eight rod free, to play with its friend, Mr. Oil Pan.

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011


Pretty easy to remember - rotary engines rotate the casing around. Radial engines have the cylinders radiate out of the center, but the cylinders themselves don't rotate.

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011


Podothehobbit posted:

As a geotechnical inspector....how the hell did that thing pass any sort of compaction testing?/did they not at least over-excavate like 30 goddamn feet and put in some sort of engineered fill? Holy settlement batman, that makes me cringe.

But, you see, this was mainly for a Walmart, and it's cheaper to do it the way they did. What, you think they'd spend money doing things properly?

Also, something something about groups of people and it being impossible to shift blame on a group.

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011


Phanatic posted:

Huh?

The violent snapping and shaking back and forth of a helicopter with an imbalanced rotor due to failure is more than enough to snap necks easily. Think about it - the rotor is attached to the top of the box you're sitting in, spinning at fuckall RPM, and then it suddenly decides to, say, lose a blade.

It's like that video where a guy throws a brick into a dryer, but on a much larger scale.

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011


Ridge_Runner_5 posted:

My sister did the same thing when she totaled her first car. Broke down on the side of the road, I went out the next day and there wasn't any oil on the dipstick. Ripped out the decent speakers we had put in the doors and sold a mirror to a friend of mine on a car forum who's sister had the same car. Sent the rest to the junkyard.

She's on her I think 5th car now since 2006.

What is it with sisters? My sister (four years younger), has done the same thing to almost every single car I've bought her (because, until she turned 19-20 and moved away, I was a sucker and played the "good big brother" to her).

First car: 1995 Geo Metro sedan (manual). Death: burned out the clutch going up a grade, crashed into a ditch backwards. Aftermath: My dad took the steering wheel, and we towed it out of the ditch and pushed it 2 miles home downhill in my 1988 Delta 88 (with both front wheels severely off-kilter). At night.


Second car: 1996 Saturn SL1 (auto). Death: 3 months in (day after a complete overhaul by me, valves, spark plugs, oil/transmission filters, new water pump, transmission valve body, and belts). It burst a coolant hose and lost all coolant in the morning, but she continued to drive it all day, as a pizza delivery driver . Aftermath: It only retained 2nd gear after her massive overheating, so after about a year we drove it in 2nd to the junkyard. They gave us $200


Third car: 1989 Chevy Corsica (auto). Death: 7 months in, she got drunk/high and backed it full-speed into the (now dead) parked Saturn SL1. Aftermath: we towed the Corsica off of the Saturn's hood (I did say full speed), and drove it with the Saturn to the junkyard. The Corsica crab-walked all over the road with two off-kilter donuts on the rear tires.


Fourth car: 199X (can't remember) Chevy Astro van (auto). Death: 6 months in, she ran it out of oil for the final time. The first few times, it was a loose or forgotten oil drainplug, but the final time was a broken oil dipstick tube on the oil pan, 30 miles away from civilization. She even managed to throw a rod through the block, which means it probably ran out of oil before she even left. Aftermath: I rode in the Astro while it was towed by my dad the 30 miles back to town (straight to the junkyard) by my Delta 88. No power brakes and no power steering are very scary with an ancient van.

Fifth car: 1994 Plymouth Acclaim. I, being recently unemployed in Idaho and she being in need of a car in Tacoma, gave my Acclaim to her in January 2011. I had very recently (within 1,000 miles) done a complete overhaul of the 3.0 Mitsubishi V6 (valve seats/stem seals, water pump, timing belt, oil filter, trans filter, distributor, starter, fuel filter, etc etc), but since she was in need of a car and I wasn't, I drove it over to Seattle/Tacoma and "sold" it to her for $100 (because I'm a Big drat Hero like that). She hasn't killed it outright yet, but she's come close. She called me once to let me know that she locked the keys inside the car at her work with the car running (), and that it would be eight hours or so until either a locksmith or her boyfriend could come and unlock it, and the asked if the car would be "okay." It ran out of gas after six hours or so (she never fills it), and very soon after that incident it required a new fuel pump.

I've come to terms that I will never see that car again .

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011


Bang Me Please posted:

What is is with you? She keeps destroying the cars because you keep buying them for or giving them to her and she has no reason to give a poo poo about them.

She's getting better. And, to be fair, they were all cheap cars that I myself had grown out of. No car was more than $400, some were free, and I was living at home and had extra money to blow.

She's slowly getting better at maintenance and care. Plus, familial love/protection instinct does weird poo poo to people.

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Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011


If you've used the window defrost setting on your car, then you've used your AC.

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