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Some poo poo I've done... The head gasket for cylinder #6 of the LDS-465 motor in my M54A2:  The only thing more deafening than an unmuffled military turbo multifuel is one with a 2" head gasket leak blasting full compression right at the cab from the back of the motor. Dear god, that hurt through my earplugs. It still drove great though, only lost a little power running on 5 cylinders! Here is the gasket, removed from the engine (I kept it as a trophy):  The control arm brackets on the dana 30 in my 96 XJ were unamused by the 4 foot endo I did going up a rock ledge last summer:   The rear U-joint on the rear driveshaft appears to have needed some grease... but now it's heat treated!  (replaced 5 minutes after picture was taken) I drove over the steel pipe marking the property line helping my neighbor pull a couple trees out with the M54A2:  The passenger side motor mount broke off the engine block in my 91 MJ during a severe episode of death-wobble. It literally ripped the bosses off the side of the block and snapped a few bolts. I jacked the motor up, tied a sling made of 50 feet of cheap rope underneath it, drove it 20 miles home, then the next morning drove it 20 miles to and from a friend's house to buy the replacement motor.  And the best, most  worthy one:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B3FHhcWvCe4 The AW-4 is a beastly, hard to kill transmission, but not when really beat on. That one blew up and left me stranded 300 miles from home on I81. It made some really nifty noises (in neutral and park, too!) and the torque converter was pumping out so much heat when it died that it melted the crankshaft position sensor so badly it died. I had to put my spare in to winch myself onto a friend's trailer when he showed up to rescue me. e: went back looking for the pic of the punctured tire and realized all the images were broken. Moved them to imgur. kastein fucked around with this message at 16:25 on Apr 27, 2016 |
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Aug 31, 2011 04:34
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Godholio posted:How many loving Jeeps do you have? I just want to follow you as you walk through town hoping a few of them fall out of your pockets. For a while I had 5... 96 XJ (piece of poo poo, terminal rust cancer patient, beat the hell out of it till it died then scrapped it) 91 MJ (piece of poo poo but I like it, has never stranded me) 98 XJ (piece of poo poo, but no rust, bought it because it was real cheap as a backup vehicle) 88 MJ (no rust, bought it to replace the 91 eventually) 58 M54A2 (bought it because it was cheaper than just a trailer, nevermind a tow rig... and the other jeeps fit in the back, and hell, it's just plain badass) right now I have 4. 2 haven't moved in months and there are 3 parts jeeps in my yard that I let my friends park here  I term the collection my Redundant Array of Inexpensive Vehicles... $7200 on all 5 before repairs and upgrades. Probably still under 15k including all repairs and upgrades.
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Aug 31, 2011 20:00
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looks to me like it is telling you to do a disc brake swap. drum brakes are the devil.
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Sep 3, 2011 16:27
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Geirskogul posted:Drum brakes are stupidly simple, and they make perfect emergency stop brakes, especially if they're TLS and not SLS. I don't understand all the hate. I mean, I still prefer discs 99% of the time, but don't run away and cower in fear when a drum brake shows it's face. the number of goofy rear end linkages, adjusters, and springs that require 5 arms and 3 special tools to assemble just pisses me off. The idea is simple, yes, but the execution lacks, especially on something like a Jeep XJ rearend and even worse, the drum-in-hat Ford 8.8" e-brake setup. I want to find whoever decided to put 2 return springs on (one behind the stiffener web and one in front) that setup and kick their rear end. If you want something simple, look at a disc brake... a caliper with a piston pushes two pads together against the sides of a rotating disc. Doesn't get packed with mud or dirt, no adjustments, the pads are flat, and you can put an e-brake on it by milling an ACME thread into the piston and attaching a bellcrank and the e-brake cable (example: some Cadillac rear calipers.)
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Sep 3, 2011 23:25
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Skyssx posted:Or put a brake band on the transmission output flange. Simplest brake ever. Might do that, but if I manage to drop my driveshaft, I'm boned. I like my brakes (especially e-brakes) to be as close as possible to the wheels.
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Sep 3, 2011 23:49
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Skyssx posted:I'm not opposed to a second mechanical caliper on the rear brake discs, i'm just thinking as cheap and simple as possible. I give no gently caress about another couple pounds of unsprung weight, I drive a live axle. seriously. You have no idea how much joy it brought me to disassemble the drums on my axle with nothing but a 3lb hand sledge and an angle grinder when I was putting the discs on.   I own 4 vehicles with 9 live axles and no IFS/IRS... sadly the one with 3 axles has 6 sets of drum brakes I can't even lift 
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Sep 4, 2011 00:28
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CommieGIR posted:Diesels you know it! This one's even better, it's a turbo multifuel, 22:1 CR, and will happily run on anything from home heating oil to gasoline as long as you mix it together such that it'll lube the injection pump properly without plugging it. It's a honey badger motor, it doesn't give a gently caress, it'll burn it.
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Sep 4, 2011 05:19
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Bondematt posted:They run very happily on engine oil pouring through the turbo. yeah...  better cover the intake pretty fast.the old military ones will also run backwards if you drive into something very solid (say, a 10 inch tree, or a phone pole), stall it out, and bounce backwards hard enough to turn it over before you manage to get the clutch down. Ever have the motor restart and clutch in, shift into 1st, let the clutch out only to panic realizing YOU ARE STILL GOING BACKWARDS? That's when you notice the smoke coming out the intake and realize your oil pressure is at zero because the pump is running backwards. scary poo poo, but it only takes once to recognize it. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/55796-ldt-465-ran-backwards.html
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Sep 4, 2011 05:30
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tehllama posted:Well that was fast. We're not quite sure what happened to the plastic bits , my guess is they're scattered across turn 1 at Roebling. Threw the serpentine belt (which dragged the AC belt with it) right into the radiator fan, so the car immediately overheated and I got to cause my first white flag. I blew one of those up...  ... and so did a friend of mine (the post on the screen) - even lost the same number of bearings. That one made it 20 miles to my storage unit doing 80mph (I found the bearings would space out around the spindle and keep it from making such horrible noises if I did 80, so I went with it) so I could pull the spare off my spare motor and drive it home, at 11PM, when all the parts stores were closed. EDIT: is imageshack banned here or something?
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Sep 5, 2011 13:07
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trouser chili posted:In a word, yes. It's an involved story from long ago that I don't quite remember. Use imgur.com. It works well and it's fast. ok, sounds like a plan. I wondered why imageshack wasn't showing up... had an account here 6 years ago but stopped using it in like 07, forgot the password, and lost access to the email address it was registered with years ago I must have missed the imageshack drama or something.I've been using tinypic, will check out imgur also. EDIT: looks like I was just living under a rock, it happened while I was active. kastein fucked around with this message at 14:35 on Sep 5, 2011 |
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Sep 5, 2011 14:29
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Shroomie posted:How about impending horrible mechanical failures? I've driven my Comanche around with 2 quarts in it also... run it out of oil on the highway dozens of times, it leaked like a sieve and I didn't have the time to fix it. Oil pressure remained fine with no bad noises. Friday, Saturday, and Sunday I had some pretty awesome mechanical failures... only have pics of Sunday right now, hoping my wheeling buddies will send me the others. Friday: pulled over on i278 leaving NYC to help a stranded motorist, figured why not? I'm stuck in traffic anyways. When I went to leave after filling her radiator back up, it wouldn't start... and I discovered that the fuel line to the injector rail had popped off due to a crappy hose clamp. Glad I stopped because I would have made it another mile or two before it sprayed all over the hot exhaust manifold otherwise. Saturday: went wheeling, blew up a passenger side dana 30 stub shaft which mangled the inner shaft and as a bonus, ripped my lower balljoint out of its socket and bent the stud in the upper balljoint about 20 degrees. Had to patch it back together well enough to limp it back to camp, where I pulled the balljoints out of an axle I had bought the week before that was still hanging out in the bed of the truck... this is why driving a Comanche rocks, you can carry a lot of spare parts. Sunday: This:  Led to this:  I was driving down the trail when the temp gauge started climbing. Tried racing the motor a little to get air flowing but it wasn't having any of it and quickly climbed off the top of the gauge. I stopped and opened the hood to find the upper radiator hose creaking ominously and twice its normal diameter... lowered the hood and ran, 5 seconds later it let loose and spewed superheated steam and coolant all over where I had just been standing. Fixed it up, threw a new thermostat and mechanical fan viscous clutch in it, and drove it home. Near as I can guess, the viscous clutch finally failed all the way, the thermostat overheated and stuck shut, and then the coolant hit boiling point and blew up the almost worn out radiator hose.
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Sep 12, 2011 19:04
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Fermunky posted:"Lowered", or dropped and ran? I can picture that... "Holy shi..." drop the hood and run like an SOB. lowered. I have balls of steel  my thinking was that I wanted most of the water to be deflected forward instead of going all over the top of the motor. My friends in the jeep in front of me said they got concerned because "that's not a normal Ken face... oh poo poo! it blew up"
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Sep 12, 2011 21:24
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InitialDave posted:Actually "brake grease" is a great one for loving with people. It actually does exist, you're just supposed to put it on the caliper slides and such, not the discs themselves  (I'm sure you knew that already though) What really gets me is when someone tells me the brake rotors must be absolutely clean, like a single fairly clean fingerprint is going to cause a problem. Sure, big greasy fingerprints or any amount of actual oil/grease/wd40 is going to cause a big issue, but a couple small fingerprints burn off real fast.
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Sep 16, 2011 19:06
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Nitr0 posted:did you just see this on reddit or did you see lance's thread in chitchat about the 4700+ people who were viewing it who found it on reddit? That was a pretty well done troll.
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Sep 16, 2011 23:33
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MikeyTsi posted:Or perhaps in this thread, as I believe that's now the third time this has been posted? I figured he wouldn't see it in this thread and repost it to this thread, but that is a possibility I guess. Speaking of which, I haven't seen that bent container ship connecting rod in some time.
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Sep 16, 2011 23:41
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DELETED posted:It's also the only wasp killer Skyssx posted:Fire? combine these two ideas and you win. Seriously, you haven't lived until you try it. You probably haven't died till you try it, either. I use non chlorinated brakleen which is basically acetone and heptane. Works great for everything from starting fires to distressing the neighbors to cleaning anything off anything else (I use it to wash my hands when I'm done with working on the jeep, takes 30sec and leaves them entirely clean, if needing a bit of a wash just to remoisturize) to cleaning brake hardware. Grab the rotor by the center hole, hose both sides down, hang it on the lugs, load your pads into the caliper, hose them down, slap it on, and you're done. No gloves needed. A 5 gallon pail full of acetone is great for cleaning parts too, and you only really have to buy it once, just fill it up and scrub parts off in it, then recap it when you are done. It costs a lot to fill the first time at $16/gallon but doesn't take long to break even if you consider how much brake cleaner costs.
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Sep 18, 2011 00:53
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wow, that is some hardcore stuff. I can only imagine what it does to lungs and skin. I am also an aircraft remover, tell me where the aircraft needing to be removed is and I will see to it that it goes away.
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Sep 18, 2011 21:30
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I'd probably dry it off with a rag and then hose down with my favorite solvent ever, brakleen. I think I need to pick some of this stuff up, along with a set of replacement filters for my respirator mask.
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Sep 18, 2011 23:07
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The Scientist posted:
the one that really scares me is the "methyl-ethyl-badshit" one... Poly(oxy-1,2-ethanediyl),.alpha.-(nonylphenyl)-.omega.-hydr{Nonylphenol Ethoxylate} Simply because that is a HELL of an IUPAC organic chemical name. Here it is, in all its gory glory:  Yep I'm just gonna call it "methyl ethyl eat-your-face-off".
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Sep 19, 2011 04:51
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crazy chemical poo poo
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JD Brickmeister posted:Isn't that like an aileron for the aileron? It's hard to believe that something that minor could cause such trouble, but I guess when you're 100 feet off the ground going 400 mph there is no such thing as a minor problem... ailerons are on the wings and control direction... that is (was) an elevator flap. You lose one of those and you lose the ability control whether you are going straight ahead, up, or down. That's how he ended up going straight into the ground in the middle of the crowd instead of flying over them.
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Sep 19, 2011 15:24
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Looks like an outer pinion bearing failure to me.
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Sep 19, 2011 22:11
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B4Ctom1 posted:I have seen this a few times. Pinion bearing failure, even the pinion nut backing off can cause this. forgot that one, yeah that can cause it too... ALWAYS USE A BRAND NEW PINION NUT FOR FINAL ASSEMBLY! Hell, you should probably use a new one for setup as well, though it can be a regular grade 8 or ISO PC 10.9 not one of the special staked all-metal locknuts specifically for pinion usage. A friend of mine wrecked a brand new gearset trying to save a few bucks by doing his setup using the old factory nut, it rounded off a couple threads and then stripped out.
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Sep 20, 2011 03:15
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The Electronaut posted:The talk of HF reminded me of this blog post on some other "interesting" chemistry involving fluorine: http://pipeline.corante.com/archives/2010/02/23/things_i_wont_work_with_dioxygen_difluoride.php One of my favorite blogs... PS, ClF3 (yup, holy poo poo, you can start running now) is even worse than FOOF. It's a stronger oxidizer than oxygen and will spontaneously combust on contact with such reactive things as wet sand, asbestos fireproofing, cement, rock, glassware, lab assistants, etc. Same guy has a pretty good article on it, I think it's titled "wet sand won't save you now". During one of the world wars (iirc) they had mixed up A TON OF IT (literally) and somehow (unsurprisingly) it got spilled or the containment was broken. As a result it ate a significant hole through a thick cement floor and consumed the sand and gravel under the floor leaving approximately a 1 meter deep crater, and spewed wonderful fluorine and chlorine based chemical vapors and acid fogs everywhere in the process. I wish I had pictures of this... e: http://pipeline.corante.com/archives/2008/02/26/sand_wont_save_you_this_time.php kastein fucked around with this message at 06:33 on Sep 20, 2011 |
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Sep 20, 2011 06:15
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yeah, that's why I use non-chlorinated brake cleaner... acetone (CH3)2CO and heptane CH3(CH2)5CH3 don't contain any chlorine.
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Sep 26, 2011 02:11
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heat posted:Did you read the part of the article where he was welding with it? It won't decompose into phosgene without argon. and if you use non chlorinated brakleen, it's impossible for it to decompose into phosgene since it only contains pure hydrocarbons (with the exception of the single oxy in acetone, but you're adding a significant quantity of oxygen at some point anyways.) All it can do is flash some fire at you to warn you that you should have been smart and waited a little longer before striking an arc.
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Sep 26, 2011 22:57
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I'd love to believe it also but... my bet is on "pulled right out of the author's rear end and somewhat embellished and thesaurusified* by TDWTF staff". It reads... like something Remy Porter wrote. * this is a word. Remy Porter created it.
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Oct 4, 2011 20:44
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Z3n posted:randian randian randian randian randian I hate libertarians did you lose a debate in D&D? Here's a friend of mine's NP242 transfer case:   Something seized and the case became two case halves...
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Oct 5, 2011 18:28
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I forget what he replaced it with. Probably another $75 used NP242/231.
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Oct 5, 2011 21:21
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I can pick up 231s and 242s on jeep forums around here for ~50-75 all day, or 100-130 if I need one ASAP and go to the junkyard. Where are you? I'm in the rust belt stateside, so jeeps go to the scrapper here long before the drivetrain is worn out. Hell I've bought multiple 4.0L engines and never paid over $160, never paid more than 100 for a transmission or axle either.
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Oct 6, 2011 06:17
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EightBit posted:Part of me hates you for the cheap replacement parts, and the rest of me wouldn't move to the rust belt for anything. Stay where you are... it's not worth it...  Say, isn't there supposed to be a lower control arm mount somewhere on here? (what is normally a 2-3 inch wide piece of 10ga steel plate on each side of the bracket had rusted down till it had approximately a 3/4" by 1/16" section of metal holding it on each side. I hit a rock about the size of a curb while braking and it sheared off.) Of course, a friend of mine had recently parted out his jeep for a variety of reasons including rust issues, and he gave me his dana 30 for free because it needed seals and axleshafts so I had it ready to go 4-wheeling again by the next weekend.
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Oct 7, 2011 14:14
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that's the whole subframe that holds the suspension arms, steering, etc. I think on some cars it may also hold the motor in. I had a horrible failure last night, but it was more my horrible failure than a mechanical one. Angle grinder vs finger. WEAR THOSE LEATHER GLOVES GUYS, at least it gives you a split second longer before it starts eating tasty flesh. http://i52.tinypic.com/1zei2i8.jpg (not safe for squeamish people)at hostpital, almost lost fingat e: fixed to not use imagecircus kastein fucked around with this message at 15:47 on Oct 12, 2011 |
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Oct 12, 2011 15:37
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hahaha, I got bitten by the images-hack-us to imagewagon/imagebucket etc filter. Forgot about that, will upload using a less retarded host I can't believe it gave a pic of a finger even
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Oct 12, 2011 15:44
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yeah, an abrasive disc at 10,000rpm is a real bitch. It hit me so fast I thought the protective shield hit me till I looked and there was a 1/32" thick slot through my finger, with the bone at the bottom and blood starting to ooze out. It actually didn't hurt too bad. In fact I've had worse pain from slamming my elbow into something accidentally. Missed all the tendons, all the nerves, didn't fracture the bone (only nicked it), didn't cut any muscle because fingers are mostly fat, and it cauterized everything so it barely bled. I lost maybe a teaspoon of blood between when it happened and when the doc started washing the wound out. It was very strange to see a slot cut through my finger. Oh, and typing with 9 fingers is a bitch. Definitely slowing me down at work a bit, since my left middle finger has to handle 9 keys now and I'm not fully used to reaching that far with it I make a lot of typos. In fact I've typed 'fingee' and 'finget' a few times  Funny thing about it - I was working on the jeep again 10 minutes after I got back from the hospital. Just being extremely careful.
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Oct 12, 2011 17:56
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looks like an ultra spindly 'racing wheel' that can't handle torque, I'd be hiding it and pretending I never thought it was a good idea to run those rims.
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Oct 16, 2011 18:52
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ratbert90 posted:Did I just gently caress myself? Earlier today I started smelling serious gas smell coming from my Maxima (VQ30DE). When I got home I saw the injector under the intake manifold was leaking quite a bit, so 30 minutes later I had a injector o-ring kit and I went to work. 1. are you missing anything? Rings, earrings, nuts, bolts, virginity? 2. are you sure you got the injector plugs back on the right injectors, and if you removed them, the spark wires back on the right spark plugs? On some motors it's easy to get this wrong, on some it isn't. 3. muffler bearings are bad and it's caused the muffler to seize, backing up the exhaust.
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Oct 22, 2011 08:17
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Well. After a weekend at Rausch Creek with a very rusty MJ, I have a few additions to post here in the next few days as I remove parts and take pictures... buckled one of my lower control arm mounts about 3/4" up into the frame, another spot on the frame buckled right under the bed where a large amount of it had rusted away (it looked all there, just flaky, then I whacked a big rock with the frame and all the rust fell out, now there is a hole about 2" wide) and another spot where one of the leaf spring brackets is disconnected from the frame rail halfway. 
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Oct 24, 2011 03:55
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Sure looks like a former block, you can see half a piston bore. I4? maybe an I5?
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Oct 25, 2011 01:57
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BonzoESC posted:I just have one of those battery-powered jumpstarters. Only two clamps means it's harder to gently caress it up. unless you connect red to black and black to red... and become a part of the landscape.
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Oct 28, 2011 20:32
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Alereon posted:Stupid question, what do you have to do to cause that big of a jump-related fuckup, and why did it do more than just blow a fuse somewhere? jumper cables (except the kind made for retards that they apparently sell now) don't have a fuse. Unless you are color blind / completely blind or retarded they are not difficult to use. Hook em up the wrong way and something exciting is bound to happen. EDIT: EightBit, you're SUPPOSED to go negative to negative and positive to positive, unless you're saying it should be positive to positive and frame to frame, which is fair. Negative to positive and positive to negative will effectively short both batteries in series and you really, really don't want to do that. kastein fucked around with this message at 06:51 on Oct 29, 2011 |
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Oct 29, 2011 06:48
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| # ¿ Apr 25, 2024 09:23 |
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Jeep XJ/MJ/ZJ bottle jacks are pretty OK too. I've tipped one over but it was because I was on a slick surface (black ice) and being an idiot. Even so it only bent the crank/handle and the jack itself was unharmed.
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Oct 31, 2011 02:21
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