Pipkin posted:

Please do! Do you work on ships? Sounds too big to be trains.

e: spellin'

Viper915 posted:

Good eye, this is an F22B2 with 197k miles on it. I was really looking forward to the 200k rollover, but it was not to be.

Kill-9 posted:

On closer inspection.



Holy poo poo!

Sudo Echo posted:

I get a text message from a friend, brake booster vacuum hose decided 75mph on the highway was the place to break off. Scared the crap out of him when he went to brake and nearly rearended some poor van. It's a 2005 Saab 9³.

Gorillian Dollars posted:

If its a relatively modern car it might automatically activate the emergency lights during hard braking or due to it being moved violently to the side (collision detection), i've already seen it several times on the highway when people emergency brake for something, the hazards pop on automatically to alert others.

Brain Issues posted:

Engines don't normally have water shooting out of cylinders do they??

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JwiI7YAwPTM

Slavvy posted:

Idiots went to the trouble of taking out the drivetrain and towing it there before burning it, they could've taken the wheels for a few extra as well.

NitroSpazzz posted:

On the E21 at least they are under the hood and easy to work on. 928 puts them in the passenger foot well behind a piece of hinged plywood...

not my car, random internet picture

cursedshitbox posted:

stay away from the parts stores ones, they kinda suck and are way over priced.
I've had pretty good luck with GMB water pumps.

spog posted:

That is some pretty drat inspired engineering. Everything else I own (computers, domestic goods, etc) would just shut down at a predefined temperature.


I was thinking, if you got that car hot enough to cause flames to appear, is it still savable (assuming no internal engine damage)? If you have that many bits glowing orange can you stop it from burning down without damaging it in the process?

i.e. CO2 won't stop it. Water will destroy the exhaust, the manifold and the block? Would powder stop it flaming up long enough to let it safely cool down?

Kill-9 posted:

Last time I removed a fan clutch was on a '97 D-90 I believe. I swear it was right hand thread. Maybe it was a Disco. I can't remember now. But I know it was right handed.

The cover is really just cosmetic scratches. It sounded like holy hell when it went though. I've done a couple water pumps in Rovers and never seen one like that with so much forward/back play.

InitialDave posted:

InitialDave posted:

It's the upper part of the dumbiron that's ropey, strangely the spring hangers and the metal connecting them seems almost untouched by corrosion. I was intending to make use of this to make my life easier in terms of preserving the alignment, by filleting out all the crap in the middle and replacing it with a section taken from an off-the-shelf assembly.

Not sure how it's managed to do that. Parked facing downhill a lot, with water pooling up in the dead-end of the box section? I would have though the hangers would have been well eaten into.

It's also the military chassis, which makes it harder to get the "right" front section for.

This seems to be the worst area, but in truth I won't know until I start cutting out rot and replacing with new metal. If it turns out to be horrible throughout, yeah, a nice new chassis would probably be the answer, but even with my club discount, I'd still be looking at

General_Failure posted:

No pic because
About a month ago I was refilling the car with LPG, or at least trying to. I had to give up. Every time I tried, LPG just came pouring out from around the filler thing. I didn't realise what was happening at first. But after a few attempts of undoing and doing up the filler and having a closer look it was obvious. So there was evaporating LPG all over the place plus the stuff that shoots out from the little vent holes in the pump filler every time the handle is released. Bit of an oh poo poo moment.
I told the cashier about it and they said it's probably my car. I pretty much said that's bullshit but whatever. It wasn't the car by the way. Maybe someone got to see a nice little fireball later that day.

It never occurred to me that the pump side could fail that way instead of the big O ring on the port on the car failing first.

M42 posted:

It's probably one of the hardest jobs to do on my bike. Plus I don't have a garage or tools like a drill press. A new plug seated for about a turn and a half before I met resistance... hopefully it's just soot on the threads. If it's wrecked, it's literally easier to replace the entire head than helicoil one plug

kastein posted:

I'd do a helicoil on-vehicle but trying to not drop garbage into the cylinder is a losing battle. Grease on the drill bit and tap can help, but it's not going to stop everything.

However, hooking a compressed air source up to the intake or exhaust with the crank turned to a position where only that valve will be open on that particular cylinder will blow debris outward instead of letting it fall in.

Last time I did something like this, I didn't think of that and ended up sucking debris out of the cylinder with a mcdonalds soft drink straw scrounged out of the trash can, half a roll of duct tape, and a shopvac. Lowest, most ghetto point of my life as a shadetree mechanic. It was a 2.2L OHV engine in a dented rotted 2001 cavalier so no one really gave a rats rear end if I got all of it as long as it held together for another couple years.

Cakefool posted:

Why do I suddenly want one?

Plankalkuel posted:

Chain vs. Belt very much depends on how you do it, especially today. The belt on a >~2006 Citroen C5 V6 has an expected life span of 250.000 km. The chain on my 1996 Citroen XM V6 will outlive the engine, which is expected to make it past 300.000 at the very least.

On the other hand, if you own the correct engine variant VW Golf, then you do timing chain changes after 80.000 km.

Midjack posted:

I have wondered what those were for for the last 15 years. Thank you.

Throatwarbler posted:

In the US, vehicles over a certain GWVR are considered differently by the EPA, so on 3/4t and above trucks you can have diesel engines and whatnot, and they don't have to provide any fuel economy information for consumers.

As far as "safety standards" go, it's really more of an excuse for carmakers to complain about than anything real. What "safety standards" are there? I'm genuinely curious because I don't think there really are any. Other than things like must have ABS and 1 airbags I don't know of any that would seriously impact cars that would currently be sold. Certainly there is no requirement for any carmaker to disclose to their customers any crash test information - e.g. there are no publicly available crash test ratings that I am aware of for any US market Land Rover/Range Rover vehicles, the NHTSA's star rating system is completely voluntary and JLR has never submitted to it, while the IIHS has no interest in doing any crash tests on their own. Range Rovers might fold up like a cardboard accordion in a 35mph crash for all I know, and nothing is stopping their sales.

1500quidporsche posted:

There is a rather infamous mod for KE-Jetronic on the 16v Scirocco where you basically disconnect the coolant switch and plug in some mickey mouse device that forces the engine to run in cold mode because then it runs "rich". Don't worry about the fact that its running open loop the whole time that doesn't matter, or the fact that it could actually be running lean because a 30 year old mechanical fuel injection system is going to be perfect and not lose any fuel pressure after so much time.

Its almost as dumb as rigging up the cold start injector way off to the right hand side of the manifold to continuously run as a way to get more fuel in. .

1500quidporsche posted:

While possible I don't think its likely. Bosch's intention was for the cold start injector to only fire on start up, on most cars its wiring is tied directly to the starter. The problem with using the cold start injector for extra fuel is that unless its placed at the throttle body its not going to distribute fuel evenly to all cylinders, and even then the fuel won't atomize as well as it would with the normal injectors.

I don't remember what the WOT switch did with plain old K Jet but on anything with an oxy sensor it caused the fuel system to run open loop. The problem you'll have with that today is that the fuel system likely doesn't have the same pressure it did 30 years ago and you may actually cause the engine to run leaner by going WOT.

Mooseykins posted:

Is it late K-Jet with Lambda? If it doesn't have a throttle position sensor that might just be a switch to tell the ECU that it's full throttle and gently caress yo lambda reading! Where it switches to open loop and dumps fuel.

If it doesn't have a lambda sensor that's the switch that engages party mode.

Collateral Damage posted:

Having grown up with Saabs I habitually put every car in reverse when parking.

DocCynical posted:

Somehow, two bolts have failed.

Cojawfee posted:

Wouldn't it be super cool if oil was neon green though?

Sagebrush posted:

Could be worse

spog posted:

I should admit that I am quite old and still have a paper license, with grandfathered in rights, so I get to be a bigger menace on the road than young 'uns.

I can also drive an agricultural tractor, a lawn mower, a road roller, and a tank (thought the last two are only provisional licenses)

Delivery McGee posted:

When I was 16 and it was time for the first oil change on my first car, I asked my father where the ramps were. I'd seen him use them my whole life.

He denied ever having even seen ramps and told me to buy a floor jack and a set of jackstands. That's some good parenting.

Metal Geir Skogul posted:

Actually, she is.

I work in the 2nd largest burn center in the US. There goes two years of her life in therapy and skin grafts.

MomJeans420 posted:

I posted this in CA, but it should probably go here too. This is actually a real item:

Darchangel posted:

"Drive for free!" <spends a fortune on equipment, tools, retrofit gear...>

The EV conversion dudes do the same thing. I'd love to convert one of my dead RX-7s to EV, but it would cost several times what just rebuilding the rotary would cost, and I don't drive near enough to recoup the cost, no matter how cheap it is to drive.
I'll still do it when I have several thousand to drop on it, but I don't right now.

edit: hahahaha $10,000 conversion on the Austin, and only a 50km range.

spog posted:

Hey, you might be onto something here:

Q: How much do they cost to run?
A: This is tricky to calculate accurately, but based on the charge time and average power consumption of my own milk float, it works out to very roughly 1 kWh for each mile driven. My electricity supplier currently charges me 11.6p per kWh, so that's roughly 12p per mile, excluding maintenance costs, but this is very un-scientific and relies on a lot of assumptions and guesswork. Batteries are the biggest single maintenance cost, and these need to be replaced every five to ten years, depending on how the vehicle is used.

shy boy from chess club posted:

My little brother used to be a nuke on the Eisenhower and a few years ago they replaced the 2 reactors by cutting huge holes in the ship. I so wish he could have gotten pictures of it. Afterwards they have to take the ship out and do high speed turns and stuff to make sure the welds were ready to go.

um excuse me posted:

There's a hydraulic connection there. Like any fluid, it isn't a rigid interaction. Two halves of the converter just pass a fluid back and forth to each other using centripetal force. If one half is spinning and the other is not, the fluid is spun up by the moving half and it's momentum is transferred to the stationary half when the working fluid gets passed onto it, generating torque on the output. In a very basic way it's still just one propeller pushing a fluid onto another.

the spyder posted:

Fascinating, I had no idea it was a slur (not that I can think of a time I've ever used it outside of talking about old movies).
https://now.org/blog/the-g-word-isnt-for-you-how-gypsy-erases-romani-women/