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Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Looks like an engine, not a trans. Just has the front drive axle going through. Early AWD BMW? You can see the gudgeon pins in the sump and the oil pickup.

I recognise that sump but just...can't....put my finger on it.

edit: beaten.

Slavvy fucked around with this message at 04:30 on Dec 29, 2012

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Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

meatpimp posted:

Now cartridge filters ARE horrible mechanical failures... or at least horrible customer-screwing failures. Requiring a particular large-sized wrench that is different between brands, plus a cartridge (that is the same thing as a standard spin-on oil filter, but without the shell, backflow valve, etc) that costs MORE than a spin-on filter.

Plus, there's the added bonus that dealerships talk about them like they are some kind of special voodoo, further pushing people out of DIY service. gently caress cartridge filters.

And I'm not even going to start on Toyota's extra twist of a built-in oil drain in the cartridge that requires a separate bolt to be loosened that is always tighter than the main body, so it's virtually useless (since the main body breaks free letting the oil out before the drain valve breaks free).


GnarlyCharlie4u posted:

Until the first time a Dealer technician uses an impact gun to put the cover on.
gently caress YOU TOYOTA!!!

I worked at a Toyota dealership for a while and this. This this this this. Not to mention, the drain bung is tighter than the housing FROM THE FACTORY so it is useless even with a car that has never been serviced before. Plus you need the special toyota unblocker tool; a drain bung isn't enough, oh no: you push the disposable plastic barbed pipe into the hole and it wedges a spring-loaded valve open. Good luck draining the housing without one!

And then there are the cars (I'm looking at you 2zr-fe) which have a plastic housing with no drain. If you use anything other than a perfectly sized cup-style filter wrench you WILL destroy it.

I hate modern toyotas, they are terrible cars from an engineering standpoint and I challenge anyone to dispute this.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Around 01-03 they did a complete turn-around with their design philosophy. One moment you have pleasant, extremely rugged, well made cars designed to sell based on their intrinsic quality. The next, everything is keyed for quantity over quality, lowest-cost, maximum market penetration bullshit.

Work on a 99 corolla, then work on a 2004 corolla. If you scrubbed all the badges and stampings away, you would swear they're made by different companies. The hilux went from being a legendary tank to a fragile, cantankerous flower in one model cycle.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

It got a modern diesel engine which toyota designed with very little foresight; the emissions controls to comply with euro IV and V are very poorly integrated and the fuel injector design and layout is exceptionally poor. Ford, mitsubishi, nissan, hyundai etc all have analogous engines and the toyota is the worst of the lot. The EGR system constantly clogs, the injector pintles clog, the fuel filter design is seemingly intended to breed diesel bug, the injectors pop out of the head because the clamp design is poor, it goes on and on.

On every engine I've seen other than a hilux/hiace/prado, the injector fuel return line is outside of the engine. Toyota decided the best place for it would be immersed in oil inside the cam cover, attached to each injector by means of a banjo bolt and passing through a hole in the cylinder head (also via banjo bolt). When the bolts aren't tightened *perfectly* or one of the washers has failed, fuel rapidly fills the crank-case and the turbo begins ingesting it through the breather pipe, leading to a runaway.

I've seen this happen twice, the second time ended in a catastrophic failure.

Toyota rant over :)

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Honestly, I don't think there really is one because of the current market environment. Honda are pretty good reliability-wise nowadays, as are subaru. I can't speak in detail though as I haven't really worked on modern examples of either brand. GM and ford still suck, nissan is hovering somewhere inbetween but someone more familiar with those brands could tell you more. Modern korean cars are pretty good too, though technologically less advanced in some ways.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

I once dealt with an aurion (40 series v6 camry) which had water leaking into the boot. This is very common and usually involves sealing up various grommets etc. So I jumped in the boot with a light and had someone hose the back of the car down with water. Immediately a MASSIVE TORRENT of water came through between the boot lid and the rubber seal on the car body itself.

After much loving around, boot adjusting etc it occurred to me to actually measure the car, and we found the entire rear of the vehicle was distorted ie one rear quarter panel was 20mm higher than the other and the boot hole was a parallelogram instead of a rectangle. That car had less than 5000km's on the clock.

sharkytm posted:

Honda would get my nod for small cars. Our Fits are easy to work on, although little to nothing breaks. We've got a combined 150k on two of them, and the failures thus far are: one coil pack, and one rear wiper motor. The wiper was covered under warranty. The coil I changed out in less than an hour, including swapping all of them around on the two cars to diagnose which coil was failing. I've worked on recent civics and they aren't bad either.

Reliability wise, both Kia and Hyundai make darn good cars. Don't know about working on them, however.

I work on Kias every day and they brand new stuff is fantastic to repair, older stuff gets cuntier as you go back in time. The current R-series diesel engine has no design-related issues whatsoever and most of the technical bulletins etc pertain to fit and finish, dashboard rattle/electronic malfunction type stuff rather than actual mechanical problems.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

02 is ancient history, it is THREE model cycles back. The cars from that era are russian-level terrible and bear no resemblance to the current ones.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012


More oil filter chat....

edit: to clarify, when I pulled off the housing cap, half the filter came out and the other half stayed stuck in the engine. WHole housing was filled with barklike chunks of filter media.

Slavvy fucked around with this message at 08:41 on Jan 4, 2013

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Fire Storm posted:

Remember: Always treat acetylene tanks as if they contain gas. NEVER put one in an enclosed car.

An explosion can happen if you don't listen.

I'm reminded of this http://www.leftlanenews.com/man-survives-toyota-fj-cruiser-exploding-while-inside-aftermath-inside.html

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Godholio posted:

Ew. What brand is that?

Genuine Kia/hyundai. The owner decided 31,000km's was a good oil change interval. "I think it's a little bit overdue for a service." right...

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Celica GT4 or similar? Massive caliper but AWD (I'm disregarding the possibility of a FWD car having a brake that big), with a front bias by the size of the halfshaft. Maybe an evo?

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

General_Failure posted:

Oh okay. I've never actually seen one so I didn't know.

Oh man. If I'd had thought of it I could have taken a photo of one of my neighbour's yards. Not a mechanical failure as such. Around here people have big TV aerials. Some on rooftops, others on towers like HAM radios have. Someone's tower broke in the last wind. One side of iit. It's now on a roughly 45* angle propped up by the house. It's tall enough that it looks like it could conceivably break free and hit the power lines.

Structural and forethought failure.

The angle is pretty lousy but you can sort of see what I mean from this one. For reference the aerial is behind the house and leaning more or less straight forward over it.



Hahahahahaha oh wow. What in god's name do you need a TV antenna that big for? I'm not being facetious, I genuinely don't understand the purpose.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

jammyozzy posted:

Remember kids, when somebody tells you a bolt is left-hand threaded, check the manual before assuming they're right:



This had me hanging off the end of a 3-foot snap-on breaker bar thinking "hmm this bolt sure is torqued down" :downs:. It's not that clear but it's cracked almost all the way through in the root of the most stretched thread, made an almighty crack sound as it let go.

Honda crank pulley bolt?

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

I don't understand the almost mythical fascination with reverse thread; do people think they're cool by saying X bolt is reverse? I can't remember the last time I've seen a reverse thread anything on any vehicle, tierods excepting. I know they exist but come on, honda are not citroen or jaguar, they won't arbitrarily throw reverse thread in just to gently caress with you.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Black88GTA posted:

At least some Honda engines spin CCW, meaning that the rotation of the engine could have the tendency to back out a standard-thread crank bolt. I don't think reverse thread is used unless there's a good reason for it.

e: meant to say clockwise :doh:

Yes, but even the CW engines (which from what I know is 99% of honda car engines) have conventional pulley bolts. They're just tightened to an insane degree and require a special crank pulley holder tool to undo.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

General_Failure posted:

Yep. I have a spark plug air adapter for that too although I feel a lot safer with a bit of rope because there is a mechanical reason for the valves not vanishing into the barrel.

I have managed to successfully helicoil a spark plug thread on a 4 cylinder 250cc motorbike using this method and grease on the tap to avoid the shavings going in. I felt like some sort of master mechanic samurai. My 'rope' was a very narrow strip of rag about 200mm long, it was enough to completely fill the bore.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

AB posted:

Not catastrophic, but we had problems with road wheel caps on a few M1A1 Abrams during movements last year. There was a problem with the plastic on the new caps on our road wheels, and they kept fracturing and dumping lubricant everywhere. Had to wait hours for replacement caps and POL to fix a whole bunch of broken caps:



Leaking cap on the left, broken in the middle.

So the bearings are lubricated with a liquid, not a grease? I don't know anything about how tanks work!

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

General_Failure posted:

Ah-ha! Quick men, shoot for the caps! Seriously though? Those plastic caps really have the potential to cripple one of those things. Seems a bit of a poor design choice.

"They'll never think to find cost-reduction here!"

Seriously though, maybe they have some other kind of protection when they're deployed. AB could tell us I'm sure.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

kastein posted:

Sure looks like a horrible mechanic failure to me. The upper end of that appears to have tapered threads and a perfectly square face, so I think the nut came off rather than the stud breaking.

On a lowered BMW with basketweaves? Perish the thought!

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

jammyozzy posted:

Some carnage from an Elise gearbox I was tinkering with today. 3rd output gear has gone bye-bye.





And the mating input gear in the centre.



Box was pretty hosed in general, not sure if it's from a previous failure or this one but the inside of the casing is gouged to hell all around the crown wheel too.

Is that from a K-series elise or a toyota ZZ? Just curious.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Pics speak for themselves. Who can tell me why this car won't get written off despite the quote being well into five digits?




Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

CommieGIR posted:

Bent A arm, bent control arm, bent steering knuckle, destroyed ball join, damaged CV half shaft for sure, who knows what sort of body damage.

It'll be a list.

Also the control arm mounts are physically ripped out of the subframe.

It's valued at $115,000 because it is a custom-made vehicle for a disabled person, so it has a wheelchair ramp and hand controls etc. It's made to commission by the accident compensation corporation (government accident insurance).

He hit a traffic island at around 90km/h.

A normal one new is worth roughly 50k.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Seat Safety Switch posted:

When you run a tuning shop sometimes people bring in poorly modified poo poo to get tuned. This was running on the stock tune, complete with turboback exhaust.




I think those are drywall screws.



My friend's neighbour had a setup like this on a 90's STI. One of the little vent things in the bonnet had been purposely removed so that the crappy pod filter and AFM were exposed to the sunlight. So every time it rained his filter filled with water....

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

IOwnCalculus posted:

Hey, at least GM gets it right when they don't run coolant in the intake itself; they've run a plastic intake on the LSx since 1997.

Interesting comparison point, the regular Mazda MZR gets a plastic intake in the 3, but the turbo in the Mazdaspeed version gets an aluminum intake.

I'm not aware of any current new vehicle which doesn't have a plastic manifold; the engineering hurdles have been solved. Interesting that the turbo mazda gets an alloy one, I can only think of it being to reduce intake air temperature because plastic is a pretty poor heatsink.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Carteret posted:

I don't think I've ever owned a car with a plastic manifold. Maybe I'm just weird, or Hyundai is retarded, by my GenCoupe mani is still metal :confused:

This is really surprising because every other iteration of the lambda v6 has a plastic manifold. Or is yours a theta 2 turbo?

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Carteret posted:

Nope. 3.8.

Stock Photo:



Interesting. Looks like they went for more of a high-port sort of runner design, as opposed to the squat spaghetti manifold of the less performancy cars. It looks really crammed in there too; I've never worked on one unfortunately.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

revmoo posted:

I have no problem with plastic intake manifolds but plastic valve covers can gently caress right off.

Once again, every single non-exotic modern car has a plastic valve cover (magnesium is still superior in some ways) and the only time I've seen a broken one was when the owner took it off himself and dropped it v:shobon:v

Plastic manifolds don't flow better because of texture or anything, it's because the casting can be much finer, with much narrower edges and more delicate fins and so on.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rocker_cover

Different nomenclatures for different...folklatures? Technically does cover the valves.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Tusen Takk posted:

I've only ever heard them called valve covers. In the Michigan/Canada, the UK, and Australia anyways. I've never heard of rocker covers before :v:

Depends on how old and salty the mechanic you're talking to is. They're rocker covers to anyone over 40 I've found.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

some texas redneck posted:

Okay, my 2006 may not be completely "modern" today, but GM is still using the same engine family in plenty of other cars.

The valve cover is definitely metal, though it has a gigantic sheet of plastic covering said metal valve cover.

GM are pretty behind technologically; I'd say the more modern iterations have plastic covers. I've seen several engines go from alloy to plastic over one model cycle.

2006 is ancient history from a manufacturer perspective unfortunately :shobon:

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

When I worked for toyota I once sold a fog light where the part name on the packaging said FOGRANPU.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

What's bizarre is that the toyota passenger cars still use alloy covers (well they did as of early 2011), yet the diesel vehicles like hilux, land cruiser, hiace etc have plastic covers.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Is that a CBR600 engine?

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Ferremit posted:

My 100 series has a plastic cover over the valves, with a layer of foam sandwiched between it and a steel outer cover!

The reasoning behind this was thus: plastic cam cover is cheaper and lighter and better, so we'll use that>need foam to silence those tappets and injectors because the market is moving upward for landcruisers and people expect it!>poo poo better put a steel cover over this, it might get damaged if anyone uses this thing seriously!

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

thelightguy posted:

I have faith that even the most idiotic of idiots could manage to match color to color. Sparking off a battery that's offgassing because they didn't read the loving instructions on the jumper cable package? That's much more plausible.

Oh you :allears:

I've seen someone gently caress their alternator fuse by installing a battery backward. Then do it again after getting another fuse. Then when they figured it out, they flattened the battery trying to start the car. So hooked up the jumper leads backward.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Raw_Beef posted:

Its really common for people to use oil line fed gauges when they cant figure out how to wire an electric one. Most of the time this is when the OEM gauge has failed, but in Alfa's case, who can say? I've replaced dozens of alfa convertible tops and frames, but i had to call the local alfa shop to ask them where the trunk handle was. The whole car is a mechanical failure.

Don't old minis have this setup as well? Also should probably note that analogue oil pressure gauges are cheap as chips whereas ones that involve a sensor and so on are much pricier.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Camshaft carnage. The smaller objects are the rocker arms that I had to re-assemble CSI-style so as to know how many chunks to look for when taking the sump off. Also have to find the two pairs of collets it smacked out of the retainers. :sigh:

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Bulk Vanderhuge posted:

Yep, if I have the stereo turned off in my car I can hear fuel sloshing around. There's a tonne of room in the back seats because of it and really if an impact is severe enough to rupture the tank you're already dead.

Not quite as confident about fire though.

Toyota yaris/vitz had a safety recall out for the seatbelt pretensioner setting fire to the sound deadening foam at the bottom of the B pillar in a crash. The fix was to just take the foam out and throw it away.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

kastein posted:

It sounds like it ran for a while on the verge of hydrolocking, too... and then hydrolocked. No telling if the rods are tweaked or bent at this point, if it was my car I'd definitely check that before even considering rebuilding it.

It's pointless. Along with the cost of gaskets, bearings, rings etc which will inevitably be done 'while you're there', there's the added labour VS just throwing in a second-hand one. It's a dirt-cheap, dirt-common engine known for it's ruggedness in general. Seems like a no-brainer.

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Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

I have the SP tools equivalent 4lb hammer. I can't believe people told you not to buy one, the usefulness is endless.

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