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Ive changed plugs on 3 4.6s all which had 80,000+ and several years on the plugs with no problems. 2 DOHC, one SOHC.
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Jul 4, 2013 19:02
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The blowing plugs thing seems like one of those massively overstated internet jokes to me. Look at the number of 500+HP stock headed 4.6 DOHCs running around.
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Jul 4, 2013 19:49
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The low down on mod motor heads: 4.6 SOHC 2V: 92-98 (later for town cars) NPI heads (boat anchors) 99+ PI heads 98 Ford SVO head 4.6 SOHC 3V: 2005+ Mustang Heads 4.6 DOHC: 93-98 B-port heads 99-03? C-port aka Tumble port heads 02 FR500 heads 03+ Cobra/Terminator heads Cobra R Cyl heads 5.4 SOHC 2V and 3V 03+ Truck heads 5.4 DOHC 99+ Tumble port navigator heads Ford GT and Shelby GT500 heads 5.0 DOHC: Coyote heads of course in the new Mustang 5.8L heads in the 2013 GT500...know nothing about em 6.8L V10: Has 2V and 3V versions but who cares cause this engine sucks. CarForumPoster fucked around with this message at 04:08 on Jul 7, 2013 |
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Jul 7, 2013 04:04
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Slavvy posted:90% sure the australian v8 falcon had this engine for a while, it was criticized for being enormous, heavy, slow-revving and based on a pickup truck motor when compared to the LS2. Ford GT seems to be pretty good.
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Jul 7, 2013 11:13
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Slavvy posted:It's also supercharged Ahh yea I wouldn't use an NA mod motor over an aluminum block LS motor ever and I love mod motors. ...ones with turbos
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Jul 7, 2013 21:35
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Sadi posted:Not like you are changing velocities much. Steady state, rotating mass isn't such a big deal. Probably helps damp vibrations if anything. They are designed to spin at an anti-resonant frequency so the vibrations are the lowest they can be.
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Jul 20, 2013 13:54
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If you wanna know about forcing air through turbine blades, which is common, it is called impingement cooling.
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Jul 20, 2013 17:16
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BraveUlysses posted:Here's a video of the 747-8 RTO I do research with the material these brakes are made of!
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Aug 3, 2013 15:47
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As long as whenever it dries its roughly the same hardness I'd think you'd be ok. Search whatever the brand and model name is followed by the word durometer. I believe most engine mounts are in the 70-90 A range.
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Aug 10, 2013 15:38
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Beach Bum posted:Source: Local car forum Those look like aftermarket control arms in which case the bushings shouldn't be that old 
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Sep 2, 2013 19:18
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The Midniter posted:Would there be any way to repair that rim or is it fubar? Jb weld it *spits in coke can*
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Sep 5, 2013 15:24
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Wasabi the J posted:I'm not a machinist or metallurgist, but I would think that would be a freak occurrence, and completely explainable by the fact that steel/iron nails can go through a lot with enough force. This and I am a machinist and engineer.
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Sep 5, 2013 17:54
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xp67 posted:Looks like you've created a market for titanium wheels. A market that thinks: "I want a wheel that's heavier than my current wheel without good reason."
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Sep 5, 2013 18:43
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totalnewbie posted:Titanium is lighter than most steels and aluminiums for the same performance. No. The density per tensile strength of 6Al-4V vs a high strength wrought aluminum like 7075 is about the same. That Ti alloy is 60% more dense than 7075. When you add in safety factors the aluminum design will usually be slightly lighter unless you're designing for very high cycle fatigue where its possible the titanium will be slightly lighter only through very good design. MrChips posted:I would hazard a guess that a titanium wheel with the same weight and performance of a magnesium wheel would be so expensive that even a Formula 1 team would think twice about the cost. High performance titanium alloys are fantastically expensive (and often very difficult to work with). Titanium isn't THAT expensive. Ceramic composites are more expensive for sure when you add in manufacturing cost and they dont blink at new brake discs and NDT every couple of races or every race. Titanium brakes would be way cheaper (and shittier) bolind posted:Could it be that the nail was so perfectly positioned, and steadily held, that the revolutions of the wheel gave it a number of poundings. Ive penetrated a ford ranger aluminum alloy with a 12 gauge slug. if that nail was in the corner of a board and got ripped out upon penetrating the wheel it wouldn't surprise me in the least. CarForumPoster fucked around with this message at 21:26 on Sep 5, 2013 |
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Sep 5, 2013 21:24
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totalnewbie posted:Most. Of course there are high-strength steels and aluminiums that beat titanium, but they are expensive and I'm not sure necessary for this application. Do you happen to know what alloys are used for wheels? I really don't; maybe they do use something like a 7075. Again, no. High strength aluminum that I am talking about are your cheap (relative to titanium) common wrought alloys. I am not talking about MMCs or anything exotic. For castings, 356. For billet wheels it will vary manufacturer to manufacturer, I'm betting most are plain ol' 6061/2024/7075. Nidhg00670000 posted:Plebs. I can't hear you over the sound of how awesome my new 22" titanium aluminide rimzzzzzz are. To this day it bugs me that TiAl doesnt actually cast any TiAl. 
CarForumPoster fucked around with this message at 22:06 on Sep 5, 2013 |
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Sep 5, 2013 22:03
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rscott posted:Wasn't there some guy who made tow hooks for S2000s or something out of 6-4 for something obscene like $1500/part? Theres this guy who makes them for $390... http://www.z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?model=gtr&cat=exterior&prodid=3647 ...on what looks like a water jet judging by the surface finish of the un-anodized part... $40 worth of titanium + 15 minutes in cad software + cut by pressing a button then dipping in some liquids. If only there were enough idiots to sell them in any volume.
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Sep 5, 2013 23:07
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CarForumPoster posted:Theres this guy who makes them for $390... http://www.z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?model=gtr&cat=exterior&prodid=3647 Sorry to quote myself but the guy sells his advice... http://www.z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?model=wrx&cat=turbo&prodid=4977 posted:Our advise starts at $100 per hour, with a minimum 1 hour charge, maximum of 5 hour charge. We'll help walk you through an install, assist you in scrutinizing that used parts purchase, etc! ...he cant actually spell advice and yet thinks his is worth the same as a lawyers.
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Sep 5, 2013 23:23
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Crustashio posted:These are the tow hooks you're looking for: hahahahahahahahaha due to public demand (being non existent because no one that stupid has that much disposable income) were only producing 10 sets! EDIT: By the way unless the car is configured in such a way they cant put a rib on where the thing would actually be pulled in tension nor can they put the hook in the middle of the thing that is an absolutely poo poo design. CarForumPoster fucked around with this message at 23:43 on Sep 5, 2013 |
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Sep 5, 2013 23:38
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InitialDave posted:While I agree with the sentiment, you may want to tweak this a little... Im giving out mine for free I dont need to know poo poo about poo poo
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Sep 6, 2013 06:57
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CommieGIR posted:Literally rollin' coal. Came to post this.
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Sep 15, 2013 20:35
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C-Clamps or Vice Grips are the real solution.
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Sep 20, 2013 12:38
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kastein posted:... is correct. Brazing cast iron is a lot easier than welding it. Makes a pretty nice strong repair, too, I've seen videos of pros doing repairs on the bearing seats in cast iron steering knuckles for extremely heavy road maintenance/sand/plow trucks by grinding out the dirty lovely metal, filling everything with braze till it's past where it needs to be, then remachining the part to original dimensions. For example: Seems like that would've been way easier, better and faster to do by mounting it to a indexing head, put it in the bridgeport, boring the surfaces which are then fairly true. burr it, fill with braze, mount to same setup to re-machine leaving one side undersize then line bore it to get it parallel.
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Sep 20, 2013 15:22
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I completely stripped a 1993 Lincoln Mark VIII in 2012 with no PB blaster or broken bolts. It was an all Florida car. 0 rust anywhere. Exhaust unbolted no problems.
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Oct 1, 2013 05:12
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General_Failure posted:Perhaps if the can were cut open and glued to the hole... Surprised they didn't just weld it shut, re-balance it at any tire place and drive it home.
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Oct 10, 2013 00:16
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Bang Me Please posted:I don't think you can just weld an aluminum alloy rim on your own and then have it be fine unless you know info about the alloy and specifically how to weld aluminum. If you have an AC TIG welder just layin' around chances are you know how to weld aluminum. I meant take it to a welding shop in TN though. Aluminum wheels are cast usually high silicon alloy so they'll flow well making welding this a bit easier.
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Oct 10, 2013 01:28
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Blackdawgg posted:It's kind of the opposite in Florida. I get as much poo poo done in the fall, winter and early spring as I can before the great heat shows up and I don't go outside. Garage + fans solves that though, mostly
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Oct 28, 2013 18:02
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So here are some manufacturing defects in an iPhone 4s I bought on eBay to take apart. Thought I'd share. This is a welded stand off for Id guess about a #2 screw:  Note the 4/7 welds incomplete, 2 of 3 good welds have clear stress concentrations. Another standoff with incomplete weld, really only 3/5 can be considered good.  Presumably good spot welds, I thought this picture was neat because it illustrates that the outer case is a heat sink. Rounded edges indicate sheet metal back and the color indicates stainless steel to me.  Here is the joint of two parts of the outer steel case, it looks like that block is brazed to some sheet metal and there's a crack running through the braze.  
CarForumPoster fucked around with this message at 16:01 on Oct 30, 2013 |
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Oct 30, 2013 15:37
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dietcokefiend posted:In those last pictures I believe you are looking at a rubber/plastic/non-metallic spacer used to insulate both of those sections of metal case since they are used as an antenna. That was the huge slip=on case recall thing since peoples fingers would bridge the connection and cause the reception to take a poo poo. No I am looking at the brazing (I think it is) joint between two steel pieces. The is a crack running from the dove tail cut spacer down a few cm that is magnified in the second picture.
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Oct 30, 2013 17:03
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Slavvy posted:How did you actually take such magnified photos? I'm just curious. Something like this http://www.edmundoptics.com/imaging/cameras/usb-cameras/eo-usb-2-0-cmos-machine-vision-cameras/2818 Mounted to the top of a microscope.
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Oct 30, 2013 20:08
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Slavvy posted:The cylinder head? They probably did. If this doesnt remove it the only way I can think of would be to remove the head, heat it up and pour liquir nitrogen on the injector. Then slide hammer it some more.* *unless it is steel...** **...doesnt apply to stainless steels.
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Nov 6, 2013 22:34
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Oooh I bet a good ultrasonic cleaning of the head would get it out.
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Nov 7, 2013 00:48
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Those who think working in IT could possibly be worse than working manual labor in an un-air-conditioned place have never worked in Florida. I loved being an R & D machinist but man when its 100*F and 85% humidity and things are running behind, you cant help but get angry at everyone.
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Nov 21, 2013 07:14
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Slavvy posted:Only on a dyno, though. 800hp+ rb's and jz's are impressive sounding but tend to blow up pretty quickly if they're actually used very often. They're great for racing but as a road car pretty hopeless. Theyre not great for racing unless you're racing from a roll on a highway.
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Nov 27, 2013 00:46
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FogHelmut posted:I was looking for my father-in-law in the crowd, but didn't see him. He was a materials engineer for Boeing for years. Good story.
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Dec 11, 2013 16:24
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Welding to the wheel is a bad solution. It: A) locally ruins the strength of the wheel. B) requires that lots of wheels be welded by people likely grossly incompetent to do so including paint removal, cleaning, welding, and repainting C) Your solution involves welding a relatively thin strip of metal to a GIANT heat sink then putting that welded zone in nearly constant vibratory loads The only way I could think to do this reliably involving weding is ultrasonic welding and ultrasonic has a lot of the same problems in that it also essentially destroys the metal just in a different way. (Through mechanical means as opposed to recrystallization problems.)
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Sep 7, 2014 20:09
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:OK, well, weld them to the tires instead then. Now we're talkin'
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Sep 7, 2014 20:14
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I think you're now focused on defending an idea that is crap and its going to turn dumb fast but... - Welded at a production facility where you can dial in a process with extensive mechanical testing or easily put huge batches into a furnace for post weld heat treatment is not comparable to welded by a mechanic. - I have welded wheels myself as well. I have also been to a tech school for machining that had an automotive tech program and seen what happens when those guys try to weld. (Bad things) - You will not get a precise distribution of weld failures because of the variability inherent to your proposed solution. Many will fail at very low strength. Aluminum especially has extremely poor fatigue strength in the heat affected zone. Having thousands of mechanics welding on tiny strips of metal to high silicon content aluminum will end with lots of product failures. I totally believe that you, kastein, are capable of doing the method you describe. I do not believe it is a solution that can work when you have to engineer something for the dummies of the world.
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Sep 7, 2014 21:07
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Slavvy posted:With ESC and highly sensitive wheel speed sensors being the norm I don't see why everyone doesn't just use wheel speeds vs pre-programmer rolling diameter maps. Or is this not accurate enough? Or is the sensor thing an issue only on older cars? I have literally never seen a vehicle with TPMS sensors, ever. How would this monitor pressure?
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Sep 7, 2014 23:13
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Hillridge posted:If anything I think the cameras give a false sense of security. They are often fisheye and it looks like you have miles of space when in reality you're about an inch and a half from hitting something. The one on my truck is useless for anything other than lining up the hitch ball to a trailer. My STi OEM is like this but it also has green yellow red bars that tell me and I can correlate them to what I see out of the back window. Also helps me line up with the curb.
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Sep 10, 2014 03:04
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wolrah posted:I'm going to go against the grain here and say I love backup cameras. Yeah they're not necessary for most vehicles (though a lot of newer cars have pretty crappy rear visibility), but they sure are nice, especially when backing something unfamiliar. Same reason people buy desert eagles. A) They hate Palestinians -or- B) It makes them feel manly
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Sep 10, 2014 03:49
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