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Ferremit posted:
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Aug 8, 2012 21:36
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Don't text and pull out of your driveway at the same time, like my neigbour three doors down did. Fun fact: Fire hydrants are hard.  It ain't even mad.
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Aug 24, 2012 04:10
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Chinatown posted:Is that hydrant picture after the impact? Because drat not a loving scratch. Well, there's one:  and she beat up the curbing a little...
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Aug 24, 2012 04:40
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Fist of Freud posted:Replaced the brake master cylinder and I was about to start bleeding the system and this happened. Get to use this in two threads. Solution: Vise-Grips
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Aug 27, 2012 01:24
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kastein posted:That's exactly why I carry a fire extinguisher in my POS. 
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Sep 2, 2012 02:17
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Budget Monty posted:The person that would go at this with vice grips I would assume had never done so much as an oil change. It's my only tool!
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Sep 27, 2012 02:47
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I smell MoPar.
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Oct 11, 2012 00:52
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Bulk Vanderhuge posted:Combustible classic convertible, it was an honest mistake. Meanwhile, in the United States, 50-year-old poo poo works like Day one 
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Oct 14, 2012 23:16
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Motronic posted:HOW TO TORQUE WITH AN IMPACT WRENCH Get a friend that weighs 160lbs & have him stand about 1' down the handle Gutenuf
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Oct 26, 2012 01:37
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I just look for where the tube goes. This is why I don't own cars built after 1980.
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Nov 13, 2012 05:16
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InitialDave posted:Doing some woodwork today, making a small shed for storing my garden tools in. Circular saw had other ideas. So-long, unnamed Da-Glo tool. We hardly knew ye. Recommendation: Porter-Cable...if they sell them in the UK.
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Dec 29, 2012 17:23
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Seatbelts posted:gently caress that poo poo, Milwaukee is the way to go Geirskogul posted:gently caress that poo poo, Makita is the way to go. gently caress y'all, a magnesium-framed P-C circular saw knocked this out in six months with nary a bad cut.   (Milwaukee rocks btw) General_Failure posted:I'll agree with this. I got my angle grinder some time in the mid '90s and it still works and looks pretty much as new. Had a lot of use too. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 22:50 on Dec 29, 2012 |
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Dec 29, 2012 22:43
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The very definition of think-outside-the-box, ohshitohshitohshit roadside repair creativity. Why I carry paperclips, golf tees and at least one wire coathanger along with the usual tools.
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Dec 30, 2012 03:38
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KozmoNaut posted:They're partially right. The W124 and particularly the W201 are extremely overengineered and over-specced. If it wasn't for rust killing most of them, I'd probably be driving a 190D 2.5 5-cylinder turbodiesel right now. For what it's worth the '94 e320 (gas inline 6) I bought a couple of months ago & repaired (body) seems to be extremely well-engineered & easy to work on. And yes, the upper engine wiring harness was replaced. It needs the windows & sunroof de-gunked & re-lubed, a new power antenna unit (at worst) & a front tire balance (may be a damper or something else, I'll find out after I rotate the fronts to the rear). Everything works.
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Jan 1, 2013 20:37
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Keysmith's van. Or a contractor's...
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Jan 3, 2013 03:47
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Super Aggro Crag posted:My friend got a 1977 Ford Granada from his late aunt 2 years ago with 35,XXX miles on it. Its awesome. Check the trunk floor and the rear frame rails supporting it. It can get nasty.
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Jan 5, 2013 02:00
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My Plymouth 383 heads were torqued to 160-ft-lbs. There were sixteen a side. It was a bitch.
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Jan 5, 2013 05:50
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Slavvy posted:I don't understand the almost mythical fascination with reverse thread; do people think they're cool by saying X bolt is reverse? I can't remember the last time I've seen a reverse thread anything on any vehicle, tierods excepting. I know they exist but come on, honda are not citroen or jaguar, they won't arbitrarily throw reverse thread in just to gently caress with you. Carteret posted:Lugnuts on most Army trucks. Thank CHRIST most of them were labeled with "R" if they were reverse. That and split rims with run flats. Changing a Tire was a half a day affair it seemed. The driver's side wheel lugs on my '65 Plymouth Fury were left-hand thread. The ends of the lugs were struck with a capital "L".
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Jan 13, 2013 05:46
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Plastic caps? On MY battle tank?
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Jan 14, 2013 04:52
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DJ Commie posted:Mechanical oil pressure gauges don't have flow, they have a column of oil with pressure behind it, and I've never had one get hot. Same with oil temperature gauges, they have freon or some other phase-change gas in the line, not oil. Back around 1986, a buddy of mine had a bright red 1977 Mustang II with a factory oil pressure gauge. He asked me to look at the car because he kept having this oily brown stain which kept magically reappearing, no matter how thoroughly or often he cleaned his bright red factory carpeting. It would spot right in that crotch where the trans tunnel met the floor & footrest on the passenger side. Which was a direct vertical line from the oil gauge. It used engine oil - no medium. Yup. OEM, factory, wet-pressure oil gauge. The retaining nut had been overtightened a little, which sliced the nylon line. I snipped about an inch off & reset it to repair the leak. I used aftermarket wet gauge sets when I was younger & perpetually short on cash; they are a lot cheaper than the electronic ones. Never leaked, but it was just a matter of time... Content: Went to the bakery this morning to score fresh rolls for the Super Bowl & got rearended by a kid in an Acura SUV.  Second time in three months. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 05:34 on Feb 4, 2013 |
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Feb 4, 2013 05:31
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Yay! My new blower motor for my e320 showed up today!  Can't wait to get started! It's cold as hell out there! ...  Thanks, supplier for your awesome TP wrapping job. And thanks, Fedex, for playing bocce with your product!
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Feb 21, 2013 17:59
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That's what those goddamned bars were mandated for in the first place...I remember when that requirement came in. Now they don't do poo poo?
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Mar 8, 2013 02:05
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 I don't care how much grease you pile into those caps, there's no way in hell I'm slamming them with a hammer like that. No poo poo you'll pinch the yoke; it'll probably be the least of your problems. I had a '65 Plymouth Fury, so I got good at replacing U-joint crosses. I had a piece of bar stock cut to fit the yoke to prevent pinching when I hammered out the old ones. Never had an issue vising in the new caps...the biggest bitch was making sure they were perfectly straight before spinning them in. My finest moment was recognizing a dying cap before the driveshaft let go & changing it out on my '86 Ram conversion van, right on the shoulder of the Pennsylvania Turnpike. No matter what Chrysler product I owned, I always carried a spare cross for it. I own a Pontiac now. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 00:06 on Mar 9, 2013 |
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Mar 8, 2013 23:55
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I tend to work on older cars. They're frozen up tight. I'm referring to the caps, I know what the pin bearings are and where they're located. And if you don't smack that cap dead-on on the first swing, a pin will pop loose. Press in with a vise, and the shock won't shake 'em. And yes, I lost one too, after trying the hammer method & bending the yoke, in 1979. Stuck to slow pressure after that. Using an arbor press was dreamy.
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Mar 9, 2013 00:06
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I think that you are just better at this than I. 
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Mar 9, 2013 00:39
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CommieGIR posted:I did it again. At least you don't have to waste any money on lottery tickets. That ship has sailed. You magnificent bastard.
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Mar 10, 2013 06:30
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Oh, yeah
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Mar 10, 2013 21:44
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I'm afraid that's steel belt weave. Nothing says pain like changing a tire with a shifted belt worn through to the weave without very heavy gloves on...you wind up with a tire attached to your palms.
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Mar 11, 2013 03:16
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Picture to follow. I am in the midst of a nightmare. My nephew brought over his 2006 Subaru WRX Sti so we could replace the front rotors, which are warped. Figured it'd be a one-hour job - it's two bolts per caliper, and nothing holds the rotor on. Started at noon on the passenger side. The first bolt was sticky but came out. The lower bolt sheared off. We have spent the last five hours trying to get this loving bolt out. After constant application of a propane torch, we managed to move it a sixteenth of an inch (about 2mm) before shearing off the rest of the bolt. I went through seven drill bits trying to drill it out to relieve it, as well as three pairs of Vise-Grips, which were the only thing that would hold on to the stub. This is a Brembo caliper, which is apparently as rare as unicorn farts, and appears to be about $1000 at the dealer. I'm trying to track down machine shops, no mean feat on St. Patrick's Day Sunday. The car is now undriveable and in my garage, where it may remain for quite some time. I've been working on cars since 1975. Never had anything remotely like this happen to be with disc brake calipers. (edit) arg. 
PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 04:00 on Mar 18, 2013 |
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Mar 17, 2013 22:47
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Cenodoxus posted:
Seat Safety Switch posted:My sympathies. The Brembo bolts are kind of infamous for doing that and I'm not really sure if there is any way to really prevent it when you're maintaining them (other than maybe replacing the bolts every time and using copious antiseize). They get really hot because they're massively heavy cars that are frequently driven hard. No experience with this type, a 2' 3/4" driver, and this. I hope I score a unit from the Impreza forums for $225.00. The guy has my money & is supposed to ship it out tomorrow. Hope I don't regret this, because ain't no fool like an old fool. He schooled me on just what Seat Safety Switch said. "Was it the bottom bolt?" "Yup." gently caress. We managed to get WD-40 on the top one but couldn't see poo poo through the dust shield and didn't want to contaminate the pads by cropdusting the whole thing. I'll be putting new pads on anyway, as it turns out, so I'll be cropdusting the driver's side because I'm a VV advice: to be taken. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 03:47 on Mar 18, 2013 |
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Mar 18, 2013 02:43
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Black88GTA posted:Can you weld something to the stub and twist it out with that? Or crush a vise-grip on the top + bottom end of the bolt and turn it? Or squeeze it in an actual vise? Had I an arc-welder, that would have been my first choice. I have no welding equipment (I can rent a MIG/TIG locally for a reasonable rate). Only the top was exposed, a good, meaty 1/2-inch. Three pairs of Vise-Grips later, it sheared off. I was using galv pipe to lock down the grips, too, as well as an extension to turn the bolt. Tried the vise after it was clear working on it on the car was a fool's errand; mine is a Soviet-made beast that weighs about fifty pounds and is lagged to the corner of my workbench on a 6" post, but the jaws could not get purchase no matter how much I dogged it down. We were reduced to cutting flat sides with a Dremel & getting a pair of Vise-Grips on good, then heating the gently caress out of the journal with a propane torch. After 90-seconds of applied jet, it would turn. At 1/2-turn, we had to stop & reset the VGs. Then repeat the process. We got about three rotations before we ran out of bolt. Incidentally, while I was heating it I was applying ice cubes (all I had!) to the top of the bolt/VG. No joy. I drilled it out with my cheap drill press, way off-center (naturally). After seven drill bits I gave up. Went out tonight & bought a set of the heaviest bits Lowe's had and was able to nearly center the hole using my patented idiotic "drill bit makes a good router with 3-in-1 oil" method. Tomorrow, it goes to a machine shop, where they have big-boy tools, and they should be able to straighten out my mess & get a Heli-Coil into it. I just wonder if the constant heating over 2-hours didn't kill the journal. The four piston seals are fine. This was a very steep learning curve. Several different steps will be taken on the driver's side, such as: Step 1: Shear Off Bolt Step 2: Take It To Machine Shop. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 02:19 on Mar 19, 2013 |
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Mar 19, 2013 02:10
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You rational adults. You so precious. Nothing says trouble like rushed, single-minded determination. Nothing makes more work for shops, either. I was bound & determined to get the kid back in his car on the road. the of just how much these calipers cost came later. Boy, that was a real fun moment. Nothing like resentfully marinating in the bitter pools of failure while finding out just how much this is gonna sock you in the wallet.Live & learn. I'm off for a pint or three. Meanwhile, my baby sits in the rain while the Impreza does it's paperweight imitation, warm & dry in my garage. 
PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 02:25 on Mar 19, 2013 |
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Mar 19, 2013 02:23
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Got the caliper to a NAPA with a machine shop up in Somerdale. Guy looked at it, said he'd do what he could, didn't sound very upbeat, and quoted $20-$40 including parts to Heli-Coil it. Left it & picked up pads (which were hilariously wrong) PB Blaster, anti-seize compound, four dealer-sourced caliper bolts ($41! Christ!) and stuff for an oil change as it was 1.5 quarts low and was a bit dank. Shop called at 4PM with apologies...that it wouldn't be done until the morning!  Now I'll have an extra caliper to sell... So I got going on the other side. Rust seems to be the biggest factor here:   Post-hosing:  Bonus Auto Zone fail: 
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Mar 20, 2013 03:27
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jamal posted:Yeah those are 06-07 WRX front pads. The part number for the STi will usually have a "1001" somewhere in it as that is the d-plate number. Rears are 961. And why are you putting duralast pads on an sti? Tonight's fun was repeating the shear on the driver's side lower bolt: four applications of PB Blaster didn't budge it (although the upper came out easier): at least now I know it'll cost $25.00 to fix it within one day. The curveball was Subaru selling me the wrong bolts; they are a little shorter and a different pitch than the correct bolts, with a smaller head. Back to the shop & dealer in the AM. As for the cheap-rear end lifetime guarantee ceramic pads, I really don't mind, since they can be changed out without removing the caliper. I'm hoping to have this car done by Saturday at the latest.
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Mar 21, 2013 05:23
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Geirskogul posted::wrxdrivers: My nephew is still on his original clutch   I suggested he remove the factory
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Mar 31, 2013 04:14
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First guess is: electromagnetic valve timing module. or: magneto? Is that a small engine?
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Apr 21, 2013 06:21
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Yeah: into the parts bin, A/K/A the oil pan. It's amazing that you could not tell there was a problem. I windowed a 383 at 70MPH ('65 Plymouth Fury) and it sounded like the muffler fell off + a flapping flat tire. Very confusing sound quality, but loud as all hell. Car never slowed down, though. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 03:38 on Apr 23, 2013 |
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Apr 23, 2013 03:34
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Someone ...used Permatex as head gasket cement? Gahhh 
PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 04:59 on Apr 24, 2013 |
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Apr 24, 2013 04:53
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BoostCreep posted:Didn't need those anyway. I cannot put together what the hell happened. He hit something? Looks like both steers just blew simultaneously...
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Apr 27, 2013 02:25
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| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 04:48 |
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I have kitted out my cars for years with portable trolley jacks.  I have one in the trunk of the '66 Bonneville because the factory jack is a bumper jack and aside from me not trusting it, it wil mar the finish on the bumper. Never had a problem with them.
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May 15, 2013 00:43
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