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MisterSparkle posted:EDIT: er..there should be an 'of' somewhere there in the tile. I saw something similar years ago in person, I wish I had photographed it - a VW 5-valve that had a timing failure of some sort, and mashed all of the valves into the head. One of the valve heads had broken off of the stem and embedded itself firmly (at about a 70* angle) in the valve seat.
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# ¿ Mar 7, 2021 18:10 |
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omgitstheinternet posted:Holy poo poo, I hope that pilot got 10 times the hero treatment as the guy who landed the plane in the hudson earlier this year. I fly a lot, so thanks for adding one more fear to my list of things I think about going wrong. Unless you make a habit of flying an airline that doesn't maintain its aircraft properly and at the same time puts them through far more cycles than a normal airline, I wouldn't sweat it.
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That's not what they're testing? They're trying to test a massive car-wall impact; they don't give a poo poo about what happens to the car, as long as it stops.
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Holy poo poo. I'd love to see photos of the mechanical carnage afterwards.
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I'm pretty sure that was a joke about how many pickup truck owners will just throw another 500lb of crap in the bed of their truck that's already got 2000lb in it and is barely rated for that. From experience, it makes for some very scary driving.
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2ndclasscitizen posted:GSX1100. Happened flat at as well (probably pushing 250km/h). Jesus. I imagine the rider's nomex underwear came back browner than before, too.
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Either way, it's still ![]()
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orange lime posted:Of course, if you live in Phoenix like 2/3 of the population does, you have to obey CARB emissions requirements. 4 wheels, a seat, and three catalytic converters and a vapor reclamation system I've run cars through with injectors unplugged to reduce the fuel going in so it'd be lean enough to pass. The visual inspectors here aren't exactly sharp. Also, I'm pretty sure the last time I ran my Volvo through, the guy was tired of seeing the car over and over again and stopped the test early so it'd pass ![]()
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ab0z posted:Wouldn't that result in terrible performance? If you're fouling plugs that quickly, "performance" is defined by "is it running".
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dietcokefiend posted:Whats the cost difference? Like how much would the other repairs cost vs just the outer casing? One is sheetmetal, the other is a very finely balanced device several feet in diameter that will be spinning at thousands of RPM for thousands of hours.
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All of those maintenance costs are buried miles deep in "leasing agreements". I'm sure somewhere, someone at GE knows what it actually costs to repair an engine if the front fan gets damaged...not that they'll ever let anyone outside the company know because they make so much money on the upkeep. Alternatively, in keeping with the spirit of the Aeronautical Insanity thread, "Put a
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oxbrain posted:MEK will dissolve the glue residue in a hurry. It will do the same to your kidneys. MEK is scary poo poo.
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This is why there are scattershields.
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MonkeyNutZ posted:So syf0n traded mommy's 911 on a GMT400 Suburban?
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Das Volk posted:nope, still funny M3 axle diagram: POWAAAAA in, diff clutches out. Also it sounds like there should probably be a lot of people drawing up plans for engine swaps in the Freelander, or is the chassis not even worth it?
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Das Volk posted:Fixed. Superior German Road Adhesives ensure that no stray pebbles are left after a precision repaving. Curiously, all of the roads go to Poland. ![]()
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Fucknag posted:Well, I was driving along my merry way today, when upon shifting into second gear and applying throttle, I heard the most horrendous grinding noise coming from my transmission. Engine sounds fine in neutral, so I suspect my tranny may have poo poo the bed. Holding out hope that it's just a bad clutch, but I have a sinking feeling that my car may belong in this thread soon. Without any knowledge of your car my first reaction would be clutch hydraulics / linkage failure.
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MikeyTsi posted:I wouldn't recommend spending $3K on a turbo anyway. Is it made out of unobtainium or something? No poo poo, I've priced out rebuilds for the turbo on my MS3 (as I'm now out of warranty, if it ever smokes the turbo seals it's my problem) and they seem impressively cheap to me at around $500 (as a a first time turbo owner). I think even if you don't have one to send in it's like $700.
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Snapped this one today at the local Home Depot parking lot:![]()
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Whitey Ford posted:Does that sticker say F1 Race Factory? Yes and yes. Curiously this truck was also a long ways away from F1 Race Factory - it's near downtown Phoenix and this was way out on the east side of town.
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Maker Of Shoes posted:Dodge decided it would be a wonderful idea to use the same motor mounts found on the anemic 2.0L SOHC Neon in the 2.4L SRT-4. Soft is an understatement and Detroit Q. Spider put it quite well. Before aftermarket parts companies started making better mounts for these things people were doing the old school method and just filling the poo poo out of them with 3M Window Weld. Works pretty good actually. It's ghetto as all hell though. Coworker of mine has a N/A Neon that trashed its mounts. I'm sure the SRTs must murder them.
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To be fair, calling that thing a "tractor" is kind of like calling a U2 a "plane". I just looped through the video from just before the explosion to just after the block touches down a few times. loving insane.
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What if it's a Roomba instead of an upright?
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I wanna know how much kW you're running in a cabinet to justify an A/C setup like that in there, holy poo poo.
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So what do you do in that situation? Wait for a service crew to fix it?
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B4Ctom1 posted:yes That would get...boring. Hope that wasn't too far out in the boonies.
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Splizwarf posted:Safety tabs? They're up on the neck of the stand, right below the yellow label; they're there to prevent you from raising the center of the jack too far. Grab an extension and a hammer and pound it in.
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Goddamn. Note to self, if I ever build a Lemons car, put in a scatter shield.
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Paul Boz_ posted:The engine clip I bought had bees in the intake that stung up my face. I also dropped a rear cross-member on my head and went unconscious for a few hours, until my mom woke me up. I would have given up ages ago.
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Sponge! posted:No need for EGR, since each cylinder gets a precision metered charge of fuel... I wish, my MS3 is turbocharged and direct injected, and still has both EGR and PCV gunking the hell out of the intake valves. I really don't want to know what mine look like.
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Muffinpox posted:Weird, do they close the exhaust valves/open intake valves early? Different cam profiles can go a long way to whether you need EGR or not. Best example I've got is the LS1 as installed in the F-Body - 1998 through 2000 used EGR because of the cam specific to that application. 2001 and 2002 went to a smaller cam and added the LS6 intake manifold - eliminated EGR and kept power levels the same. For the record, the '97-'00 Corvette LS1 never needed EGR due to the cam they put in that one.
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Previa_fun posted:Simplicity. Yeah, the performance that people need out of a small engine doesn't always necessitate the benefits of a OHV/OHC arrangement. With a flathead you get a cylinder head that's extremely simple, and two valves driven directly by a cam (that can be driven by a gear off of the crank). OHV you need to at least add pushrods and rockers to it, maybe even lifters? Never seen a GX pulled apart. That said, I do like the OHC GC160 my dad put on our little go-kart. Easy as hell to start and ran drat well once you tweaked the governor to get a little extra RPM.
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Lowclock posted:At least some of the old chevy straight 6s (250 etc) had phenolic timing gears, and I never had any issues with mine or heard about it being a problem. Maybe it's not the same kind of resin? The original 350 in my truck had one. Sometime in the late '80s it decided that it no longer liked the camshaft and wished to separate. Took the timing cover, timing chain, some pushrods, and some exhaust valves with it. Timing belts I don't mind as long as they have a sane replacement process and interval, especially on non-interference engines. Plastic has no business in an engine's valve timing system, especially on an interference engine.
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Reposting from the "change your goddamn timing belt" thread: This is a very nice version of what happens when you ignore a timing belt: ![]() My cousin's Isuzu. Haven't actually talked to her about it but I'm 99% certain it was a timing belt failure, and I'm pretty drat sure it only actually has eight valves. Haven't seen how the head and pistons look, either.
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The Locator posted:I drove a '68 Dodge Charger with a 440 that ripped drivers side motor mounts out with alarming regularity (putting divots into the hood in the process normally). After having the bolt fail in a solid motor mount, I just gave up and used some old logging chain and bolted the drivers side of the engine down front and rear, directly to the frame. Worked like a champ. This was actually the GM approved recall fix for the same issue on the '67-'72 C10.
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ratbert90 posted:Technically that was a Yamaha motor, but yeah, Ford had control over it. The major failing point was the cams yeah? From what I understand, if you weld the cam sprocket to the cam, it's far FAR more stable ya? Yeah, the factory configuration is a glorified press-fit of the cam gear to the cam itself. Don't know why a bolt, a threaded hole in the cam, and a pinned cam gear like any other car wouldn't have worked.
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InitialDave posted:Costs more. I think the extra $5 per car can be justified by "but people won't hate us when their valves and pistons meet at 30,000 miles".
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Breast Pussy posted:sweet rake on that Somewhere, someone is looking at this and going "Yeah, that'd look awesome if it wasn't damaged."
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Motronic posted:You really think MOST people here have never driven a VW Beetle or a 70's pickup? Yes, that's a pretty safe assumption. Seeing as, across full-size trucks, GM went front disc in 1971, Dodge in 1972, and Ford in 1973, it's also pretty safe to say most AI posters have never driven a truck without at least front discs. Hell, I never actually drove my '70 with front drums on it myself, we did that conversion before I could drive. Drums make sense on the rear because in almost any non-performance application, the benefits of disc brakes are so minimal compared to the costs that manufacturers would rather lower the MSRP slightly. You also have to consider that braking today is a huge difference from braking 40 years ago. Brakes 40 years ago had to deal with much lighter cars, much lower horsepower, and much less traction from the tires. Even econoboxes are heavy compared to the compact cars from 1970 (Beetle, Mini, and Opel GT spring to mind - and the latter two had front discs!), but they also have easily double the horsepower of those same three cars. I'd also wager that even the high mileage low-rolling-resistance tires you see on a hybrid could out-grip ye olde Goodyear Polyglas bias-ply tires. Brakes are being asked to deal with a huge increase in energy compared to 40 years ago, and unlike 40 years ago, nearly everyone around you is driving a car with braking systems built to modern standards. You REALLY don't want to be the one guy with four-wheel-drums in an emergency situation when everyone around you mashes their ABS-equipped discs.
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# ¿ Mar 7, 2021 18:10 |
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B4Ctom1 posted:When I moved on to the building room I would build 2 or 3 AXOD or 4L60 trans a day. I became as intimate with their guts as I had with the pulling. I hundreds or maybe a thousand over a few years. I've had the misfortune of being in three different vehicles as their 700R4/4L60 gave up the ghost. One was our '97 Suburban, which started spraying the exhaust with ATF somewhere about 30 miles east of Yuma on I8, at about 95MPH. Started slipping in fourth soon after. For whatever reason my parents decided to keep on going and eventually it made it all the way to Phoenix, in second gear. Only had 40,000 miles on it too. Next was another Suburban, '93 I think, where it just silently started slipping going up hills in fourth, then third; it went from normal to dead within about 10 miles. That one had well over 150k on it, though. Last one, so far, was the 700R4 I had in my truck. About 20,000 miles and it failed in much the same way as the one in the '97 Suburban, though it had given me about a week or two of warning with really lovely soft shifts.
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