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PitViper
May 25, 2003

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Crazed_Capybara_Rider posted:

Bone stock, I was going 70mph down a highway and it make a "clunk" noise and I lost power to the wheels. Managed to coast it over to the side, where I got out and took those pictures.

at "clunk". My Jeep grenaded the stock NP249 transfer case driving down the interstate at around 75, and it sounded like the gates of hell opened up under my driver's seat. Scared the hell out of my passenger who was sleeping, too. Replaced it with another 249, even though I should have tried to snag a 242 out of another Jeep.

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PitViper
May 25, 2003

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Wiglaf posted:

In one of the car cleaning threads on here someone explained that this is why he waxes the inside and outside of the wheels when he does the rest of the car.. Most people were of the opinion that it was over the top and that brake dust isn't that hard to deal with, but after seeing this (and I've got hawks installed on my auto-x car) I'll be waxing the wheels.. drat.

I always hit my wheels with a coat of wax at least once in the spring, and whenever I have them off the car the rest of the summer. Anybody who sees me do it thinks I'm crazy, but it makes cleaning even the nastiest road grime and brake dust easy. Doesn't take that long, either. And I also run Hawk pads, but I run the HPS pads on the street. If I were running the Blues, I'd definitely want to keep them and a set or two of rotors for just "track" use, and swap them for daily driving.

PitViper
May 25, 2003

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I've had that happen on a stock Grand Cherokee V8 before. And yes, it is pants-shittingly scary, especially at freeway speeds when it normally happens. Since I replaced all 4 shocks and the steering damper, it hasn't happened again. I do need to check all the front end bushings this fall, though. It was feeling pretty sloppy last winter again

PitViper
May 25, 2003

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Motronic posted:

Seriously, dude....you need to fix it for real. The shocks didn't fix it, because they didn't cause it. Same for the steering damper. That just MASKS it. It's not safe.....get under there an find out what's shot. Not this fall. Much sooner.

Any mechanic who tells you that your suspension issue is because your steering damper is bad needs to be fired. I hear this poo poo all the time in the 4x4 forums. Steering dampers should be removed to test if something is really fixed or not. All they do is hide symptoms. They're great for their intended purpose, but making up for sloppy bushings, bad bearings, shot tie rods ends, etc. is NOT that purpose, and they will just wear out quickly and leave you in a panic or an accident when they do.

Woah... considering it's been parked since April, I think it'll be ok until fall. It's just my winter-beater, 6-mile roundtrip back and forth to work car.

PitViper
May 25, 2003

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I've always left the converter in the transmission, but I've never encountered stuck bolts in the converter-flexplate assembly, either. Mostly because I don't want to accidentally shred the torque converter seals. Especially in transverse FWD vehicles, you've either got to leave the torque converter in the transmission, or just yank the whole powertrain assembly out.

PitViper
May 25, 2003

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Brake rotors on a Hyundai Elantra. The first one cracked using the rotor-removing threaded hole (the second one snapped off the bolt), and the second rotor stripped both holes, so I cut/chiseled the face off, and popped the rest of the rotor off the hub with a hammer. What a royal pain in the rear end.

I also broke my 1/2" breaker bar, but it's a Craftsman, so I'll be getting a new one this afternoon

PitViper
May 25, 2003

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And a belt is relatively cheap, parts and labor. Would you rather replace a belt and a seized AC compressor, or clean shredded metal out of a gear-drive system when one of the components seizes up? Not to mention engineering a low TCO gear drive system for accessories and such. An external chain wouldn't be as long-loved as a belt, at least not without lubrication. Look at motorcycle drive chains vs drive belts for this.

PitViper
May 25, 2003

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I hate those stupid plastic elbows, and the engineer at GM who decided to route coolant through that idler. I have replaced dozens in the process of doing what I presumed was a LIM gasket failure. Luckily I always pop a pressure tester on the radiator and put 10-12psi to check for leaks.

PitViper
May 25, 2003

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2003 Mazda Protege, terrible creaking from the front end on turns. Sounded like bad upper strut mounts...







The only downside is the spring perch (destroyed swiss cheese of rust) is a separate piece from the strut mount (top pieces in pic 3), for whatever stupid reason. I had to wait an extra day for Napa to get me the 2 new upper perches. So I billed the customer for the 2 upper mounts ($48 each) that were probably not 100% necessary, but were probably good to replace regardless.

PitViper
May 25, 2003

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Horrible tire failure?



PitViper
May 25, 2003

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Root Bear posted:

Failure due to driver ignorance/neglect would be more accurate. Driving on a flat or severely under-inflated tire is typically how you get a pile of shredded rubber like that.

Not just shredded rubber! After driving on it flat long enough to cause that, they filled it with fix-a-flat in an attempt to drive it some more! That was a fun find when we popped the bead. That was just the biggest brick we pulled out, there was plenty more. And yes, we get plenty of driver neglect cases.

PitViper
May 25, 2003

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OFFICER 13 INCH posted:

Now it looks like theres a chance my shop is going to sell an 18 hour timing chain job on a nissan murano after i begged them not to because the guys all about getting that poo poo fixed

gently caress Nissan Muranos forever, seriously. I've done an alternator, plugs, and a power steering pressure line in one, and it was a royal pain in the dick.

PitViper
May 25, 2003

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Slavvy posted:

I have that exact filter tool and it is hands-down the best kind I've ever used. Until my co-worker broke it.

I've got the Craftsman one as well. Though I can't say I've come across a filter so tight I've ever considered the impact gun. I have definitely crushed and shredded a filter can with it though. gently caress Jiffy Lube.

PitViper
May 25, 2003

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Three months old, I installed this tire myself back in Feb. Sorry dude, I'm not giving you any more "road hazard" claims on your tires. I told you you needed an alignment last time you were here.

I SHOULD USE TIMG TAGS


(USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)

PitViper
May 25, 2003

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I'm betting STR means plastic sway bar links. I see Fords come through all the time with the ball ripped out of the plastic arm. Pretty sure GM used similar ones on quite a few vehicles.

PitViper
May 25, 2003

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I had an NP/NV249 from a '95 Grand Cherokee do that. Luckily within 100 miles of home, so AAA hauled that pile of junk back home. Judging by the cloud of vaporized fluid, it definitely wasn't dry. As it needed a new tcase AND a new front propshaft, I'd presume it was the fault of some sloppy/seized joints. It did manage to give me another 60k miles of oil-leaking, noisy, bolt-shaking service with no other driveline issues until I sold it to some high school kid for $700.

PitViper
May 25, 2003

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I wondered if anybody was dumb enough to fall for those stupid facebook memes. Now I know! Probably the same people that roll into my work every day with their tires inflated to the sidewall max pressure.

PitViper
May 25, 2003

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I have a customer at work who told me straight out that he uses his air impact to install lug nuts at full bapbapbap. Every time he comes in to swap his tires for the season, we end up replacing at least a couple lugs, and have found stripped and broken studs as well. I put a note on all his work orders now that "Customer uses impact gun for lug install, do not comp broken nuts or studs". He thinks a torque wrench takes too long, or he's too lazy. Eventually he's going to lose a wheel at speed, and I'll be glad for a dozen signed work orders stating what the reason is.

PitViper
May 25, 2003

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I've definitely had a bolt come out of a caliper bracket looking like that and gently caress the threads to hell and back, because I like in the Great Salt North. But gently caress, at least chase the threads and put a new bolt in. Though once I start figuring in labor, I just buy a whole new caliper/bracket assembly and call it a day. No excuse to reinstall parts like that, and that hub is ruined. An installation tool for lug studs is like $20, no excuse to just rip several in with the nuts like that.

PitViper fucked around with this message at 19:44 on Dec 2, 2016

PitViper
May 25, 2003

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kastein posted:

this is more of a horrible engineering failure, gently caress YOU CHRYSLER gently caress YOU gently caress YOU

gently caress
YOU

there is not enough gently caress YOU in this world to adequately express my opinion of those garbagedick trashpile lugnuts. Why did they use them for like 20 years straight?

I spent an hour and a half one day busting those drat caps off of every single lug on a Charger with a screwdriver just so I could remove all the lugs and replace them while doing a tire change. Then the dumbfuck brought 16 mismatched 19/21mm drive lugs to replace the 20 7/8" drive lugs that I had just destroyed. God that was the worst day ever. I hope he gets a flat and realizes his lug wrench doesn't fit jack and poo poo anymore.

PitViper
May 25, 2003

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Colostomy Bag posted:

Always wondered about these types of mishaps. Hard to prove one way or the other. Also need to ask, when the aluminum wheel welds to the rotor, what does a tire shop do? In my case I back off the lugs about a fraction of a turn, drive it down the block and I usually hear a bang when it breaks free. Obviously a rust belt situation.

When we get a wheel stuck to the hub, we use a chunk of 2x4 and a 10# sledge. Usually a couple light taps on the backside pops it loose. We also lightly zip the lugs on with a 50# torque stick and the guns set as low as they go, which mostly gives us at least 3/4 of a turn to torque to spec with a torque wrench. Shop policy is also to have a second person take a second wrench and check all the lugs again.

I think we've had one stud break in the last 6-8 months after the car left, and that was the prime example of a rusty mess. Mostly up here lugs strip on the way off, especially if they haven't been off in a couple years.

PitViper
May 25, 2003

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um excuse me posted:

My guess is the lugs ripped the thread out of the spacer since they arent meant for racing.
That looks more like it just busted all the studs off of the hub. I've seen people toss a 5-10mm spacer on with stock lug studs, and run basically half a nuts worth of threads holding the wheels on a 400+hp turbo car. That'd be about what I'd expect to happen on a hard launch.

PitViper
May 25, 2003

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I wore through a series of crappy imported steel toe work boots with cemented soles roughly one pair per year, until I ponied up for some Red Wing 2408s a year and a half ago. They've got some scuffs, but the soles are rock solid and keeping them clean and oiled monthly keeps the leather nice and flexible.

I wish they were a little cooler in the summer, but thinner socks help. Once it's over 90° I give up and swap back to safety toe tennis shoes.

PitViper
May 25, 2003

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It's me, I'm the horrible mechanical failure:



I had today planned to replace a CV axle, all 4 strut assemblies, and the leaking 200k mile steering rack on my Legacy. Last night i had to get it towed home from my kid's daycare, because the outer joint ate itself rather well turning into the parking lot. Should have just made time to replace it last weekend when I replaced the leaky water pump and all the timing components...

PitViper
May 25, 2003

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What the hell was he lifting off of? The only pinch welds I've seen that do that are 15+ year old Chrysler minivans. But his lifting methods seem pretty questionable to start with.

Edit: watched more before/after. Dude should not be trusted with a floor jack.

Edit2: Just how many hockey pucks did he have stacked on the jack? I saw 2, and something else that fell off when the crunching happened. Lifting sideways with the rear end end on ramps was a terrible idea. Should have gone in from the front instead.

PitViper fucked around with this message at 14:11 on Jun 27, 2019

PitViper
May 25, 2003

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I've got some rebar, a stick welder, and know how a tie rod is supposed to work, but I'm too drat stubborn to buy an inner/outer tie rod assembly?

PitViper
May 25, 2003

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The Tesla lift points aren't THAT bad, but they are literally the only safe places to lift the car, and they are only a couple inches square at best. We can do them on our giant two post lift at work, but not on any of the low rise tire lifts. Even with the pucks, I think they're spaced too far apart for the low rise lifts in any case.

I keep intending to get a couple sets of the pucks for some added safety, but we've only got a couple customers with Teslas at the moment. I see them sold by model, are they really different between the S/X/3?

PitViper
May 25, 2003

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Cojawfee posted:

If your question is "is it possible that different models of Tesla are all trash and do the same thing radically different?" the answer is yes. Here's how you open (or don't open) the rear doors of each model in the case of a power failure. If you're in a Model 3, you just die.



I meant different lift pucks for each individual model, but holy how are they allowed to even sell the 3?

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PitViper
May 25, 2003

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Saying the HHR is better than the PT Cruiser is setting a pretty drat low bar. Every time I have to drive one at work it's like driving a pillbox on wheels, and the owners are always lovely customers too.

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