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Lord Yod posted:Wow. What the hell happened to your axle? A rubber boot holds them in, he broke something to rip the wheel out of the wheelwell, and the boot just rips and the tripod joint falls apart.
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Nov 7, 2009 07:49
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:i've worked on trannies now from a couple vintage motorcycles, and i'm surprised that they don't look much different than that one here. i suppose the gears must be bigger, but you're still putting all your power through two little teeth there. or more than two if they're helical cut? anyway, 25-50hp? sure i can believe that? 250? i have a hard time understanding how that works. Helical gears, so you have a longer gear than the width. That and good metal.
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Nov 19, 2009 06:59
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VanFullOfMidgets posted:
G-Laders don't usually make it through the case, so that must have let go at high RPM.
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Apr 23, 2010 03:04
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Skyssx posted:My favorite at the bottom end was always nicks on lock wire. "You see that bit there where you scratched the wire pulling it through the fastener? Yep, do it again." I never understood safety wire being solid core at all.
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Jun 10, 2010 03:05
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Boat posted:Maybe so it's either there or not? With braided/twisted cable you could snap a few strands, causing the bolt/whatever to loosen without visible outward signs? Maybe? Cable doesn't tie up the same way, safety wire pliers woudn't effectively twist braided/stranded wire probably. The adjustments on my old Case crawler's diesel pump are cabled shut and then have lead ferrules.
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Jun 10, 2010 07:26
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Lowclock posted:How does this even happen? Just gets that weak after tons of heat cycles? Sucking up rocks and poo poo? Its definitely Foreign Object Damage. Notice the sharp cuts into the blades, rather than a dulling of edges (dirt over time).
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Jun 13, 2010 06:43
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VikingSkull posted:Same here. I worked for like two years in an aircraft refurbish shop right out of high school, and landing gear is the bane of my existence. I expect it is just at the right height to do minimum damage with maximum pain.
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Jun 13, 2010 16:21
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DSMs, Hondas, etc
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Aug 17, 2010 03:10
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Toucan Sam posted:It may have been the flywheel taking the torque converter with it but there were parts everywhere and the shop it was towed to said the converter caused the damage. We were lucky the car had only been running a couple minutes so the fluid wasn't up to temp. High horsepower cars still make me a bit nervous. Scatter shields and/or bellhousing blankets are practically required when exceeding the OE RPM in large engines.
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Aug 17, 2010 18:28
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Blowing through a SFI rated blanket is a serious amount of force, those are almost actually bulletproof.
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Aug 18, 2010 02:04
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I had some hilarious iibbmm thread someone archived but just started clearing out old unfunny poo poo and it was first to go! I do remember when he sold his Insight, that was funny.
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Sep 17, 2010 16:56
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grover posted:I never quite understood why this is conventional wisdom; even a perfect weld can never match the optimum alloy, processing and annealing that gives a solid piece of metal its particular combination of strength and flexibility. Plus, the process of welding weakens the surrounding metal. A good weld will be strong, yes, but not necessarily stronger than an uncut piece. Welding filler is almost always specced to have a higher psi rating than the surrounding metal. You can always retreat metal after welding, which is what is done anyway if its that specialized. Or not welded in the first place.
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Feb 4, 2011 21:35
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Muffinpox posted:Might want to crank boost a bit too, looks like the static CR went down. Just remove the oil filler cap to vent the blow-by.
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Mar 5, 2011 23:15
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If its the Fiat twin-cam engine, a Spider trans will work.
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Apr 11, 2011 22:11
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wallaka posted:No emissions compliance. Grandfathering lobbyism.
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Apr 15, 2011 23:18
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Geoj posted:See also; why I refuse to run a sprung clutch disc. A few failures out of tens (probably hundreds) of millions? You'd rather wear the transmission earlier because of an extraordinarily rare failure probably caused by abuse?
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May 1, 2011 02:56
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Geoj posted:Not questioning that this caused the problem. I'm more saying its an extemely improbable failure that you focus on as some sort of justification to run something that may not provide the cushioning factors required by the OE transmission. There is a reason that nearly every OE clutch package has them. I have yet to see a single hub spring failure that made a clutch not work (seen pictures of a few but the springs are almost always captured on the engines as well as the sides between the riveted plates), saw one break all its hub springs and they stayed where they were captured but hey 11K RPM on a Honda OE clutch might do those things. They aren't a HIDDEN DANGER OMG, so unless you're some sort of powertrain/mechanical engineer and 70 years of clutch design on a quarter of a billion vehicles have been ticking time bombs, you're being silly. There's far far more chance of friction material rivets failing due to abuse than just about anything else on a clutch. Then the friction material itself. Then the input shaft. Then probably the pressure plate fingers.
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May 2, 2011 19:22
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T&P valves are never tested by homeowners because if you don't test them regularly (like they say in the manual) then do it once, it will probably leak. FOr catastropic failure scenarious, you'd likely blow one of many other parts of a house's plumbing before a pressure vessel would. Hell, the copper flex lines connected into to the supply and house would probably go before the tank would rupture. Not to mention cheap bathroom supply valves, crappy hoses, etc. This does not hold for very old heaters or heaters not so old but with atrocious water attributes, because those can have pinpoint failures from over pressurization and corrosion.
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May 28, 2011 06:45
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Wet-cell car batteries are nothing but some ABS plastic, two lead types, some plastic matting, and sulfuric acid, which none are hard to mitigate. Spill/leak/burn is just acid and maybe some sweeping to do. Now that acid can combine with plenty of other things and do some awful poo poo, hence the mixed load consideration. It is an oversight regarding lithium-based and Nickel-based batteries, because those burning is an especially bad thing. They don't really leak.
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May 29, 2011 18:45
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Lowclock posted:I still want to see pictures of what happened when DJCommie converted the X1/9 to Megasquirt and EDIS and left out the distributor that he didn't need for ignition anymore. It was also supposed to drive the oil pump.  Its too much of a pain to take the pan off, otherwise I would. It probably just needs rod bearings.
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Jun 29, 2011 05:30
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Sponge! posted:Or just use Works toilet bowl cleaner. Its like 20% hydrochloric acid by weight. That does not do the same thing at all. Phosphoric acid 'converts' the rust to non-reactive Ferric Phosphate. HCl just removes the rust and leaves the metal bare ready for more rust reactions.
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Jul 2, 2011 21:19
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Production drum brakes are almost always lighter than their disc counterparts. This is talking rears since only large machines use front drum brakes anymore. Drums do a terrible job at rejecting heat from the unit, and its a mostly unrecoverable problem. You can't have an emergency brake on a multi-piston caliper, so either put a second mechanically operated one(as massive waste of weight since there's not really anything short of a real race car or Veyron (stopping from top speed repeatedly) that would need more than a rear single piston sliding caliper. BMW M5s have the same simple calipers for the front and weigh a shitload, no AP or Brembo equipped. They're nice to look at and even Brembo units are lighter than some normal iron single piston units, but an aluminum Brembo with a second caliper and associated pads and knuckle tabs, etc versus just a single caliper? Disk brakes self-clean, reject heat very well, automatically adjust, are easier to service, and safer when compromised by water. Drums have that nasty tendency to hydroplane inside when the interior is in contact with water. DJ Commie fucked around with this message at 15:48 on Jul 10, 2011 |
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Jul 10, 2011 15:46
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dietcokefiend posted:I wonder if the shocks were blown on that Corolla beforehand and the lower ride height put the Silverado over the bumper in the impact. Shocks don't set ride height, springs and suspension geometry do. Its a case of a high body on frame vehicle being higher than 90s econobox that certainly was 'not designed for that crash'. Its the equivalent of being hit by a small dumptruck from the 90s. DJ Commie fucked around with this message at 16:34 on Jul 23, 2011 |
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Jul 23, 2011 16:29
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Motronic posted:That's not cryptic. It's fine that you don't know what it is, but anyone who has done basic maintenance on a car made in the 80s or earlier knows exactly what this is with no further explanation needed. There were cars post-1980s that still had distributors, though coilpack or coil-on-plug got cheap enough to use and basically became a requirement once the emissions regulations got too strict for a spinning piece of phenolic with some contacts on it.
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Jul 23, 2011 18:44
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The ACR was just a stripped version of the car with competition suspension. I'd hardly call that 'top of the line.'
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Aug 21, 2011 18:54
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My question is where is the other pin and spider?
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Aug 22, 2011 00:44
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kastein posted:I term the collection my Redundant Array of Inexpensive Vehicles Whoa. Going to use that one right there.
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Aug 31, 2011 19:09
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The Scientist posted:Drum brakes caused the 1955 Le Mans disaster. No it didn't the Mercedes was cut off as another car passed a pit-entering car, and was thrown over the barrier.
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Sep 3, 2011 22:56
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Charging a battery creates hydrogen, not discharging!
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Sep 8, 2011 16:12
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The Honda N600 I'm likely buying has a broken crank, wish I had a picture but how does that happen on a 36hp 2cyl 600cc engine that revs to 8000RPM?
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Sep 9, 2011 15:56
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Berserkerduck posted:Doesn't the N600 have a built-up crankshaft with roller bearings? That would be all I need to know to find an explanation. Yeah, its a roller. There's an engine with a good bottom end on eBay and I found the headgasket part number and some places can get it so hodgepodge engine it is.
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Sep 10, 2011 02:11
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Berserkerduck posted:Wouldn't it be easier to find a D16Y8 engine? Should fit without too much trouble, and 120+ Hp would be fun in that car. There's also the MC engine options, but the lack of reverse gear would probably be a challenge. I could probably find a better engine than a econobox Honda unit. That and it probably wouldn't fit, since the crankcase and gearbox are a singular unit with the original. That and its pretty much a Kei car in dimensions. I'm pretty sure you could almost park this Honda inside any 90s Civic. edit: If anything I'd put another motorcycle engine in, definitely fuel injected and probably Honda. The G10 turbo Chevrolet Sprint motor is too heavy and hard to find, also still likely too large. DJ Commie fucked around with this message at 00:07 on Sep 12, 2011 |
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Sep 11, 2011 23:49
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So I can have a kei car that runs 15s with 5sec 60fts and get 20mpg?
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Sep 12, 2011 16:14
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Shroomie posted:Pinion bearing failure?
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Sep 19, 2011 20:25
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Even with a Bearing Buddy, you should be repacking every once in a while!
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Sep 21, 2011 20:32
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Skyssx posted:Because we're all using non-chlorinated brake cleaner... I went to Hawaii and got my first can of chlorinated stuff. What a disappointment. It didn't even smell good, it smelled like bad chemicals, which is it.
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Sep 26, 2011 01:38
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A cylinder is probably full of coolant.
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Oct 22, 2011 06:39
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Obsoletely Fabulous posted:Well, I got to feel like a jackass today while trying to be a nice guy. This like 70 year old guy got a flat and his jack had broke, so he asked if he could use mine. I said sure and then in between taking off the old tire and putting on his spare my jack decided to fail. Your jack looks to be made for a specific place on your car, not a random car. More "universal" jacks don't have a bump in the top with a corresponding divot on the bodyshell or chassis.
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Oct 30, 2011 18:31
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Obsoletely Fabulous posted:Lesson learned and thankfully no one was injured by my mistake. His car had divots in the same place as my truck, so I figured it would be fine. You probably loaded it the wrong direction then, they are made (obviously) to not have to do any lateral load holding, and if jack where the car loads that direction, you get your type of failure.
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Oct 30, 2011 20:15
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Finding compatible oil, actual R290, and making sure your seals are compatible. Either way, don't forget to put in a new drier if the system has been open/empty for a nonzero amount of time.
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Dec 3, 2011 04:07
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