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 Birfield joint from my old Toyota 4x4. It didn't like the bouncing and the hopping and the 35" tires.
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Oct 31, 2009 16:33
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Powershift posted:Did you watch the video in the article? That's damned impressive for a factory truck. I don't know that I'd feel comfortable in my rockcrawler on that road at 2/3's of that guy's speed. Motronic, I'm curious to hear about which other showroom stock light-duty truck on sale in the US could stand up to that kind of abuse better than the Raptor did? A little frame tweakage at the bumpstop is pretty good for the speed he was carrying through that section. And like the Ford rep said in the article above, he was able to keep driving safely, no busted shocks or springs, so I'd say the truck handled the overt abuse quite well. That single hit on the kicker was clearly abuse beyond what a stock truck should be designed to handle, even one sold by that evil, evil SVT group. Trying to take hits like that is going to require better equipment (more uptravel + air bumps). You're awfully worked up about one access hole in a frame.
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Jul 21, 2011 22:10
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InitialDave posted:They're pretty tight on ground pollution from oil leaks etc. It was muddy yards and cars stacked three-high for you to climb over ten or fifteen years ago, now you're more likely to see the sanitised version pictured if they mainly deal in newer cars. The old kind is still around, but their days are probably numbered They're doing the same around parts of Southern California as well, to better control runoff and minimize ground pollution. The truth is, it's really goddamned nice working in a paved yard, whether you're laying under a car or trying to move something heavy up to the checkout. So it's a plus for the environment and a plus for the consumer, with the cost to the yard owner presumably being made up in slightly higher prices.
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Jun 19, 2012 18:17
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FatCow posted:Nope, tons of manuals are lubed by the input shaft. I had to pull the driveshaft on my 2wd manual tacoma to flat tow it across the country. Pain in the rear end. If you look through the RV magazines, they'll usually have a yearly "dinghy" edition that runs through many of the manufacturers' car and light suv lines and rates them on flat-towability. Some autos are rated as "flat-tow anywhere, anytime, no care required". Some autos have the stipulation that you need to fire up the engine every few hundred miles and idle for 5 minutes to circulate fluid in the tranny. And some autos require an auxiliary pump to be installed that deals with lubing the tranny while on the move. Manual transmissions and 4wd transfer cases are just as much of a hodgepodge. Some can be towed without worry, some need the driveshaft pulled if you're going more than a few miles. The owner's manual will sometimes say what's allowed, and otherwise you have to search out the info for your specific model of transmission.
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Feb 16, 2013 18:56
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kastein posted:Most truck manuals are also splash lubed as far as I have seen, too. I've only really messed with old top loader 4 speeds, new venture 3550/3500/4500s, and a small assortment of aisin warner boxes though. I was dealing with an aisin in my tacoma obviously. The issue with a rwd manual tranny isn't that the bulk of the transmission is splash-lubed, as that doesn't necessarily cure all your problems. It's commonly a specific concern about the bearings in the tail housing not getting any lube when flat-towing, since the tranny is in neutral, and thus most of the gear train isn't turning to create the splashing effect, but the driveshaft is still spinning the tailshaft of the tranny at highway speeds sans lube. Some manuals handle this fine, some don't, including some aisins.
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Feb 16, 2013 19:37
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kastein posted:Good point. What case, R150 series? Those are quite similar to the AX15s I'm used to, and yeah, I hadn't considered the fact that none of the gears would be connected to the tailshaft and thus nothing would lube the rear output seal or bushing/bearings. W52 in a 2wd, cousin of the W56 found in 4cyl Toyota 4x4's, but I don't recall if that series ever got used in the Jeeps (maybe in the 4cyls?). The W series isn't so different from the R/AX15 series, so I think this concern would extend to 2wd jeeps. At least with the NP t-cases you can shove the t-case in neutral and go, but most of the Toyota aisin t-cases don't allow flat-towing at all.
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Feb 16, 2013 19:54
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kastein posted:Really blurry... unfortunately all I had was my blingin' flip phone from 1995. Are you sure it's 4 broken pieces under the leaf? Ford used a weird single-leaf "pack" on the rear of some years of the Explorer back in the 90's. I don't know why they'd have the spacer underneath in that case, unless it was purely to let them use the same bottom plate and shock as the multi-leaf packs as a cost-savings measure. edit: What a pain in the rear end it is finding a picture of the Ford monoleaf setup. It was found on 95-00 Sport models. This pic doesn't have the super thick spacer or stack of broken leaves like your find did. 
murphle fucked around with this message at 06:55 on Jul 17, 2013 |
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Jul 17, 2013 06:46
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Delivery McGee posted:Looks to me like he's just pumping the brakes. I may be wrong, but as far as I know the hazards flash the taillights, lights staying on and flashing brighter is brake lights. You've been driving American cars for too long. Cars with separate amber turn signals will usually use those as the hazard flashers, with the separate red tail lights serving the brake and running-light functions.
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Sep 1, 2013 17:48
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CommieGIR posted:Why not just drill through all the leafs, put a big grade 8 bolt through with big washers? You've never tried drilling through spring steel, have you? Particularly freehand with a hand drill on springs still mounted to the truck you're trying to get off the trail. It's a bad enough process with proper equipment on a drill press, it's nearly impossible laying on your back in the dirt.
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Sep 20, 2013 04:10
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Geirskogul posted:
But what's your point here? Are you arguing that the rear handle halves are what fails on all of these drills, and we're dumb for spending more money on the expensive Milwaukee? Or is it the situation that there really is an appreciable difference in the portions that matter, like the gear train and hammer actuators, and nobody should give a poo poo if the trigger is the same piece of plastic on all 3? Because I'm kind of leaning that direction.
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Oct 19, 2013 06:46
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CommieGIR posted:
I want to know more about the gigantic gently caress-off novelty sized micrometer in the background of this photo. edit: The 3VZ-FE was fine after the headgaskets were replaced on Toyota's dime. With the redesigned gaskets and normal maintenance they could happily go 300,000 miles before the bottom end needed rehabbing. murphle fucked around with this message at 06:12 on Dec 19, 2013 |
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Dec 19, 2013 06:08
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kastein posted:The 3vz-fe is a completely different engine from the 3vz-e afaik. Whoops, I meant the 3vz-e. And I'll stand by what I said, once the head gaskets are replaced, they'll run a long time with regular maintenance. As for low power and poor fuel economy, well, that sounds a lot like a Jeep 4.0 to me.
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Dec 20, 2013 02:12
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Wolfsbane posted:I think it's the Iowa: It probably is the Iowa, which is parked in San Pedro California (LA Harbor) now. Hence the palm trees. http://goo.gl/maps/0hDus
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Mar 15, 2014 08:02
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| # ¿ Apr 25, 2024 21:25 |
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Rubber joints can flex fairly well, and are certainly the best bang-for-buck when it comes to flexible suspension joints. Far better than the usual aftermarket polyurethane replacements, and far cheaper than quality heims, uniballs, Johnny Joints and so on. Of course flexing rubber joints will accelerate their demise, but they're cheap enough to replace every 30k without breaking the bank. They'll also give a less bone jarring ride than any of those other options.
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May 15, 2014 06:07
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