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General_Failure
Apr 17, 2005


Heads and pistons from my collection. The thing to note on the bottom head is the shim sitting on it. See the hole burnt throught it? Yeah. Did that in less than an hour, on more than one cylinder. Due to the domed piston pictured next to it.

The top one, dropped intake valve seat, ate a piston.

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General_Failure
Apr 17, 2005


Dr. Awesome MD posted:

...

The man who did this is replacing his internals with a obscenely expensive PAR gearset
That sounds incredibly painful, yet AI.

General_Failure
Apr 17, 2005


PurpleFender posted:

Type 4 VW? If you ever own an ACVW, you get to look at the motor. A lot

Spot on.

If you look closer one is an 1800 and the other is a 2L. The 2L has smaller valves. No I didn't get that backwards, to those who are unfamiliar.

General_Failure
Apr 17, 2005


Wish i had a photo. I passed a truck a while back that was sitting on the side of the road with it's nearest front wheel sitting at a rather strange angle. All i could think was the stub axle had snapped or something.

passing it on the way back, the front was hoisted up by a truck towtruck and the front wheel was gone.

General_Failure
Apr 17, 2005


InterceptorV8 posted:

Because they are pretty loving safe?

And recycling and all that poo poo. I've lost a couple of tires and most of them have been new.

Nothing wrong with retreads as long as the core is still good. I used to use them on my beetle which would eat tyres alive. Also alright with trailers etc.

Like you said trucks use them without issue. is compound very important on something that big?

General_Failure
Apr 17, 2005


Gorilla Salad posted:

Is that a retread? Because it almost looks like the tread has been pasted onto the tyrer itself and is starting to come off.

I found one of the tyres on the trailer suspended in mid separation yesterday. Noticed when I was walking past. I'll post a pic if anyone says they want to see it. The rubber was hilariously dryrotted.

General_Failure
Apr 17, 2005


grover posted:

3.4L, unfortunately. It's my backup car at this point; so long as it runs fairly reliable, I'm happy. Hell, at this point, I'd just be happy if it runs .period.

I'm making slow progress. Found a little bit of milk on the valve covers, but none in the oil when I drained it, and very little on the valves. No signs of rust so far, so I don't think it was leaking much (if any) coolant into the oil. I DID manage to break half an electrical connector off, though (it's visible in the photo, right beside the thermostat).



Edit: just removed the lower intake manifold. Next up: exhaust manifolds. uggghhhhh

What am I meant to be seeing here? is it that all the valves on the left seem to be failing to open?

General_Failure
Apr 17, 2005


GnarlyCharlie4u posted:

It is for my ford.

I should hitting 123456 mi very soon

Well yeah. The Ford PS pump loves to serenade. Edging towards 300000km on our ford. It only costs an average of $100 / month in maintenance too. I've put 2000km on it in the last 4 months. The whole car is a mechanical failure.

Have I posted my gallery of loose VW type4 valve seats in here yet? t

General_Failure
Apr 17, 2005


Maker Of Shoes posted:

They look like this RIGHT before your picture.



There was maybe an eighth of an inch of rubber left before the entire thing collapsed.

Reminds me of the awful old Astron II Magna motor mounts. Because the magna community are somewhat ...um I can't think of a word to describe them, rebuilding those mounts with a tube of marine urethane when they collapse is gaining ground.

General_Failure
Apr 17, 2005


oops content:
Speaking of Magnas, I found these pics I took when the Magna's oil pump stopped pumping. #2 and #4 conrod bearings.

General_Failure
Apr 17, 2005


Alereon posted:

Potentially stupid question, but why don't engines have some sort of thermal protection that shuts them down before they get hot enough to catch on fire or sustain damage? I mean clearly there's a temp sensor since an overheat light comes on, why doesn't it just shut off?

Some engines do. I know that the mid '90s Australian Fords with the I6 have some built in. Over a certain temperature the ECU starts shutting off injectors so some cylinders are just sucking cool air to help lower temperature. The service manual I have says that this will cause teh car to run rough. Imagine that.
According to the same manual the V8 method of protection is essentially spin the poo poo out of the fans and hope for the best. I can assure you this does not work.
There is nothing like seeing the temp gauge suddenly spike, the top marker on the gauge illuminating and hearing the car emitting a mournful "ding....ding....ding" to say "Hey! I'm hosed!". Wonderful thing to hear in the middle of the night on a forest road with no phone reception and only a few bottles of iced tea for liquid

The coolant tank smelt like tea for months.

General_Failure
Apr 17, 2005


No not just the 'mericans. I think there's a modified tractor pull coming up here in the next few weeks. yay. A whole day of hearing RRRRRRRRRRRRrrrrrr.... rrRRRRRRRRRRRRRrrrrrr. because where it is held is maybe 2 blocks away from my house.

General_Failure
Apr 17, 2005


redscare posted:

I think that most people think that Hondas don't need maintenance of any sort

Fixed.

General_Failure
Apr 17, 2005


CommieGIR posted:



"Why did you cram me in that muffler?"

I'm so glad I'm not the only person thinking that.

General_Failure
Apr 17, 2005


Revolvyerom posted:

I had a very similar thing happen to me driving along the waterfront in Seattle on my Z31. Out of sheer bad luck I suppose, the ignition rotor had managed to back out the bolt securing it to the post, and it literally went from one cylinder firing just fine, to the biggest explosion I had yet heard going off right under my rear end under the car. Peeled the muffler open just like that.

It was just about the start of when I was beginning to learn how to at least work on the basics of a car, so it wasn't until a couple of days later when I'm finally going point-to-point ( ) to narrow down why the car does so poorly with any fuel/spark added to turning over, that I took the cap off, and the rotor came with it.

Put the bolt back in, with the tiniest hair of lock-tite, and minutes later I'm back to a perfectly working car.

Well, and a comedically loud exhaust.

Sucks to be you. I've had fun things like the distributor shaft disengaging from the distributor drive shaft while driving (2 part keyed thing, VW), and the rotor floating up and getting caught on an electrode. That sort of thing. makes a nice pop doesn't it. Malfunctioning LPG is fun too. Nothing like a failed start letting rip with a bang in the exhaust and intake at the same time. I love having to reassemble the LPG plumbing, drag the punched in filter out of the airbox and re-seat it and close it again when I'm in a hurry.

On the subject. Minor mechanical failure with annoying consequences. Anyone know how hot the exhaust on an LPG car gets when it's running lean? You could probably use it to heat a house effectively. A house full of asphyxiated people.
Anyway it seems to be enough heat that it can melt the vinyl cover on the front of a caravan over a meter away. It would have been a horrible failure if the caravan's LPG tank were about 1' further right. What happens when a small domestic LPG tank is heated a lot anyway?

General_Failure
Apr 17, 2005


Well poo poo. That would have been unpleasant.

I really wish I had access to the DECA "museum". When I was doing training for my truck license we were shown a couple of rooms that had mangled parts laid out everywhere. It was pretty much a student's hall of shame. There were chewed turbos, driveshafts split and bent, wrecked drums bearings and wheels, a few mangled pistons and valves and various other sundry items. We even had to play a game of "guess what that part used to be" for some of them. I guess when teaching people how to drive heavy machinery there will be casualties. Especially people that have trouble understanding that an econobox and a truck with dual range crashbox with half gears are a totally different vehicle.

General_Failure
Apr 17, 2005


DJ Commie posted:

T&P valves are never tested by homeowners because if you don't test them regularly (like they say in the manual) then do it once, it will probably leak. FOr catastropic failure scenarious, you'd likely blow one of many other parts of a house's plumbing before a pressure vessel would. Hell, the copper flex lines connected into to the supply and house would probably go before the tank would rupture. Not to mention cheap bathroom supply valves, crappy hoses, etc.

This does not hold for very old heaters or heaters not so old but with atrocious water attributes, because those can have pinpoint failures from over pressurization and corrosion.

I checked mine last week. I was thinking about the rest of the system blowing first too. Do they have a non return valve?

General_Failure
Apr 17, 2005


Throatwarbler posted:

http://smh.drive.com.au/motor-news/...0805-1ie5s.html


At least the frames didn't bend.

Pfft. Babies.

So the shocks blew. Can someone explain to me why they stopped? Is it because it's the whole professionalism / people employed to drive safe vehicles not trying to bounce their way along recklessly? Ie the whole PR issue of an offroad vehicle going violently out of control at jogging pace and careening into the incredibly dangerous mostly flat terrain beside the road?

I admit I'm being a bit of a dick with my wording. Seriously are blown shocks a total showstopper traveling a stock route? Does it set up a harmonic causing some horrible bouncing and associated stability / wheel on ground issues?
I'm just trying to understand. I know blown shocks can be slightly irritating on road. As for steering dampers, I think the Fairlane is the first car I've had where the steering damper is intact and I don't see the big deal. It's probably a massive deal offroad right?

General_Failure
Apr 17, 2005


AlternateAccount posted:

This never gets old.

I actually found myself looking for Victorian plates on those cars. Maybe I should mount a camera for my voyages over the border.

Also there was a scene where there was an enclosed truck that mounted a divider on the left and landed on its side. Did that remind anyone else of GTA3 right at the beginning near the first safehouse / Luigi's place? It looked similar and I did the same thing with a thankfully virtual similar truck. But Games are not real. In games running into poo poo is fun. In the real world it is also expensive.

General_Failure
Apr 17, 2005


Boat posted:

The best one is where the camera car almost rams some silver SUV thing, lays on the horn, and then rams into the same SUV at the next intersection when it makes a right out of the next lane over.

Sorry. All I could think of was Melbourne with that turn right from the left lane on red bullshit. Does that still exist?

General_Failure
Apr 17, 2005


Geoj posted:

Love this exchange at 4:50. Taxi runs the wrong way between two other taxis, tries to run and gets boxed in by a bus and one of the two taxis he just sideswiped.

Watching that video its pretty obvious having a dashcam is pretty much required while driving wherever the footage is being taken.

Uhm. Unless I'm mistaken the car trying to make a getaway has someone prostrate on the bonnet?

edit: Looks like the surprise passenger is wearing maybe a police or taxi driver hat?

General_Failure fucked around with this message at 06:14 on Aug 8, 2011

General_Failure
Apr 17, 2005


I hear a 50/50 brake fluid/ATF mix makes a good replacement for muffler fluid as long as you're sure to make sure it's always topped right up.

General_Failure
Apr 17, 2005


meatpimp posted:

1) You're an idiot if you get under a car that is missing any parts without a jackstand. I admit, I'll crawl under from the side with just a floor jack (not the factory bullshit, see below), but as soon as there's a wheel off or other component that will allow the car to go ALL the way down? There's a jackstand under that bitch.

2) Some OEM jacks are exercises in the absurd. We dropped a brand new, $40k Mercedes in ~1987, when $40k cars were expensive. Using the factory jack on a flat, concrete garage floor.

The right rear wheel had a flat and we were changing it. Used the factory jack in the factory location. For those cars, there were holes in the side that you put a rod from the jack into, then cranked the jack up. The problem was that the jack had a 4-loving-inch wide base, which was about as stable as a Kardashian marriage. We got the wheel off, only to watch the jack slowly pivot and dump the car onto the ground. Luckily no damange, but goddamn.

What does a "jack" like that look like? Gaze upon its majesty:


Bahahahaha! My VW camper has one of those. They are evil. To prove to myself how useless they are I tried jacking up one of the rear wheels while it was parked on a level slab of concrete. Barely got it off the ground before it started to pivot. Used to have a photo but it's not in my archive. drat. Jacking that thing up is always a bastard because of the ground clearance. No matter what, Bilstein jacks are designed primarily to kill people.

General_Failure
Apr 17, 2005


Left Ventricle posted:

A neighbor did this on his '89 Grand Marquis a couple years back:


It held for a long time, not just to the tire shop. Pretty sure he drove it like that for a couple weeks.

Hey that's that fiberglass stranded adhesion tape. I may or may not have used that stuff to replace rotted out sections of the windscreen frame lip on my beetle.

General_Failure
Apr 17, 2005


Thought I'd get in ahead of the game and put the series 3 Land Rover thread in here

General_Failure
Apr 17, 2005


KozmoNaut posted:

I'm using one of these cheap foot pump dealies, so I'm filling my tires with however humid air is around me at the time. Doesn't seem to affect anything.

The compressor I use for filling the tyres on everything is built from old truck parts. I doubt it does much in the way of moisture trapping. No problems here.

General_Failure
Apr 17, 2005


Motronic posted:

It's is a thing, and it's not particularly dangerous at all. Most of the R12 replacements (like Freeze-12) are mostly propane.

It's a lovely substitute for R-12, but actually works a bit better than R-134a in the right application.


Try 200+ when compressed in an AC system.

Propane's vapor pressure is 150 PSI at 90F/32C. So your gas grill tank is holding that pressure of propane all summer long.

Edit: revmoo wasn't talking about refrigerant pressures at all, now....was he? I'm a dumbass.

If I could actually repair the leak in my AC system myself, I'd be tempted to try propane. The volume is probably quite a bit larger than the amount that occasionally does a surprise disassembly of sections of the intake from time to time, but is it really much worse than r134a? I wish I could buy that poo poo off the shelf here. I've seen it in hobby stores but only with the airbrush. It'd be too tempting to get an aircon refill kit into the country a piece at a time to save hundreds of $ whenever the stupid thing shits itself.

General_Failure
Apr 17, 2005


You Am I posted:

I guess with AC stuff, stop loving idiots in the Australian community being bigger loving idiots, but makes it hard if you want to do a quick refill of your AC system.

drat right. If I had the gear I wouldn't think twice about filling the car AC with an alternate refrigerant. It's going to cost me at least $2-300 to get it refilled legit and tested again and, well I don't want to.

Last time I had it refilled they had it on their pressure testing machine for ages and it registered no leaks. He seemed to think the r134a system had been worked on by someone else in the past because it was a hot day and it got the cabin down to 8*C in the sun. I can't help but wonder what a less lovely refrigerant could achieve.

Give me guidelines and I will follow them. Don't ban me from doing something because some P plater dumps a bottle of propane up his rear end or something. Anyway I drive around with an 80ish litre tank of LPG and a 65?L tank of petrol directly below it.\ and I'm not dead. I'm not scared of a small amount of hydrocarbon gas in an open area.

General_Failure
Apr 17, 2005


Chinatown posted:



How fast would you have to be going in order to do that.

good question. The sheer mass would have helped with the obliteration, but I'd say a pretty fair lick. The tyre tracks removed my initial theory that the bus driver reversed into it a few times at speed.

General_Failure
Apr 17, 2005


chrisgt posted:

I hydrolocked the ea81 in my Subaru at decently high RPMs. Cranked the water past the rings. Lots more cranking it fired up and I drove it home. Changed the oil, and it's been fine for many thousand miles. Good compression and nice oil pressure.
Oil analysis came back from blackstone, and they didn't say it was eating itself.

I guess I've found an engine tougher than a jeep 4.0...

EA81s are pretty drat tough. The one in my VW had signs of being mercilessly beaten on before I got my hands on it. Like it being encrusted in dirt, gravel and mud. Even inside the carburettor. The rad fans were both shot too. One was seized and the other had stripped the locking thing on the fan so the motor was freewheeling. The distributor was questionable and actually ended up melting the distributor cap and the insulator on the points, plus I found a bit of mayo and metal filings in the coolant tank. Still had great compression though. I've not ventured into it afraid of other demons but it's been tweaked enough to run acceptably. In the interim it ran horribly rich and lean to the point where it probably would have been happy to run on indefinitely were it not for the black tar it was coughing out of the manifold indicating to me it wasn't getting fuel.

Honestly that motor is hosed but I think it should still get a lot more runtime because it doesn't knock and its compression is still good.

General_Failure
Apr 17, 2005


That disc is scary. I mean, my beetle had warped rotors but yikes!

Yes it did. Shut up. It did. I could spin the disc, wheel on or off and see it. It was also accompanied by the rhythmic "shh shh shh" of the pads rubbing on the high points. The brake place had to get new discs in for me because they couldn't be salvaged.

Wish i'd taken a picture years back when my in-laws ride on mower threw a rod. Punched through the crankcase. Luckily the case stopped it because I don't imagine having a broken conrod in the rear end would be very pleasant.

General_Failure
Apr 17, 2005


I... I'm just going to sit down for a while. k?

General_Failure
Apr 17, 2005


grover posted:





That had a lot of potential to be far worse.

General_Failure
Apr 17, 2005


Lord Gaga posted:

I am not an expert but there shouldnt be galvanic corrosion between a steel bolt and an a probably high silicon cast aluminum alternator housing. Especially since most automotive bolts are coated but even if theyre not.

Shouldn't, perhaps. But what should happen and what does are often two different things.
I had a similar issue with the subie motor in my VW with intake manifold bolts. I had to cover it with penetrating oil and even then as I was undoing it and replacing it I was doing it to the chant of "mother ...uurrrrgh... fucker ...uuurrrgh... mother... uurghhh... fucker" because dammit those bolts didn't want to move. The only possible reason I could see was some kind of galvanic reaction. The bolt threads reflected this too. I still think I was really lucky not to shear them off.

General_Failure
Apr 17, 2005


I thought thermostats used a bimetal spring. Shows how much attention I've paid to them.

General_Failure
Apr 17, 2005


bolind posted:


The fun part is the Swedish plates (I'm in Denmark). Cars are much, much cheaper in Sweden, so some people will illegally drive a Swedish plated car in Denmark. This is a biiiig nono. If you get caught driving a foreign car as a danish national, without the foreign owner being physically in the car, your fine is twice the tax and registration you'd theoretically owe. For the car pictured, we're probably talking somewhere between 50k and 100k USD. Needless to say, only people with little to lose do this. (Or fuckoff rich people who don't give a poo poo.)

So in conclusion, that car was probably crashed with someone driving it who very much shouldn't have, and that's why it's just sitting.

What am I missing here? Could you please step me through why that fine is real-estate grade scary?

General_Failure
Apr 17, 2005


bolind posted:


If there's interest, I can start a thread about these crazy shenanigans, how it all got here, and what effects it has... it's actually all quite fascinating, if it wasn't so loving depressing.


I would be kind of interested to read a thread like that. I also understand the depressing part. It's gotten to the point here where whenever police set up their roadblocks they are harvesting large amounts of money catching lots of people with unregistered vehicles because many can't afford to pay the annual registration costs, which I can understand. If they get caught the fine is roughly at where 1 year of registration would be, so if they don't get caught in a year it's a net gain.
the government will offer a discount on part of the registration fees under certain circumstances but like any government subsidy for lower income earners it's small and pointless. On the other hand they love giving tax rebates for larger schemes (household solar, gas hot water, LPG conversion for cars (Yes I know that trap has already been set and triggered by them now) which are usually $1000+ and totally refunded so they aren't incentivising any of those filthy poors to get gifts only available for their favourite, more profitable people.

Cynical, maybe. But they are as crooked as they come too. That reminds me, did the soulless ginger bitch actually get her pay rise through? If so, then she is pulling in more than Obama. I guess if I were a puppet positioned to be at the focal point of a nation worth of hatred I'd want a good pay packet too.

General_Failure
Apr 17, 2005


I keep the Fairlane registered over the border because it is cheaper. that still costs me... um... I think it's just shy of $600 p/a.
I can't get away with doing that for the VW. When I go to re-register it in total it'll probably cost me about $1100 That's for a 37 year old 1.8L vehicle.

General_Failure
Apr 17, 2005


2ndclasscitizen posted:

Trap sprung, LNP supporter spotted.

They are just as evil. It's like having to choose between a turd sandwich and a giant douche.

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General_Failure
Apr 17, 2005


Ferremit posted:

Amusingly my 3 tonne landcruiser is the same rego as a commodore station wagon- 6cyl station wagon. It's still ~$800 a year tho, that's rego and compulsory 3rd party bodily injury insurance combined.

My old red hilux was ~$1000 a year last renewal because it's considered a "commercial vehicle" because of the tray on it. It's never carried a commercial load in its life, but you cant not pay the extra even if you remove the tray!

Right on the nose there. My VW is considered to be a light goods vehicle and is classed as such. For whatever reason it falls in the absolute highest bracket for cost. Yeah, nobody misremembered. It's a camper. The authorities see it as a panelvan and therefore a non passenger commercial vehicle.

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