Dr. Awesome MD posted:

...

The man who did this is replacing his internals with a obscenely expensive PAR gearset

PurpleFender posted:

Type 4 VW? If you ever own an ACVW, you get to look at the motor. A lot

InterceptorV8 posted:

Because they are pretty loving safe?

And recycling and all that poo poo. I've lost a couple of tires and most of them have been new.

Gorilla Salad posted:

Is that a retread? Because it almost looks like the tread has been pasted onto the tyrer itself and is starting to come off.

grover posted:

3.4L, unfortunately. It's my backup car at this point; so long as it runs fairly reliable, I'm happy. Hell, at this point, I'd just be happy if it runs .period.

I'm making slow progress. Found a little bit of milk on the valve covers, but none in the oil when I drained it, and very little on the valves. No signs of rust so far, so I don't think it was leaking much (if any) coolant into the oil. I DID manage to break half an electrical connector off, though (it's visible in the photo, right beside the thermostat).



Edit: just removed the lower intake manifold. Next up: exhaust manifolds. uggghhhhh

GnarlyCharlie4u posted:

It is for my ford.

I should hitting 123456 mi very soon

Maker Of Shoes posted:

They look like this RIGHT before your picture.



There was maybe an eighth of an inch of rubber left before the entire thing collapsed.

Alereon posted:

Potentially stupid question, but why don't engines have some sort of thermal protection that shuts them down before they get hot enough to catch on fire or sustain damage? I mean clearly there's a temp sensor since an overheat light comes on, why doesn't it just shut off?

redscare posted:

I think that most people think that Hondas don't need maintenance of any sort

CommieGIR posted:

"Why did you cram me in that muffler?"

Revolvyerom posted:

I had a very similar thing happen to me driving along the waterfront in Seattle on my Z31. Out of sheer bad luck I suppose, the ignition rotor had managed to back out the bolt securing it to the post, and it literally went from one cylinder firing just fine, to the biggest explosion I had yet heard going off right under my rear end under the car. Peeled the muffler open just like that.

It was just about the start of when I was beginning to learn how to at least work on the basics of a car, so it wasn't until a couple of days later when I'm finally going point-to-point ( ) to narrow down why the car does so poorly with any fuel/spark added to turning over, that I took the cap off, and the rotor came with it.

Put the bolt back in, with the tiniest hair of lock-tite, and minutes later I'm back to a perfectly working car.

Well, and a comedically loud exhaust.

DJ Commie posted:

T&P valves are never tested by homeowners because if you don't test them regularly (like they say in the manual) then do it once, it will probably leak. FOr catastropic failure scenarious, you'd likely blow one of many other parts of a house's plumbing before a pressure vessel would. Hell, the copper flex lines connected into to the supply and house would probably go before the tank would rupture. Not to mention cheap bathroom supply valves, crappy hoses, etc.

This does not hold for very old heaters or heaters not so old but with atrocious water attributes, because those can have pinpoint failures from over pressurization and corrosion.

Throatwarbler posted:

http://smh.drive.com.au/motor-news/updated-outback-cripples-mercedesbenzs-toughest-offroaders-20110805-1ie5s.html


At least the frames didn't bend.

AlternateAccount posted:

This never gets old.

Boat posted:

The best one is where the camera car almost rams some silver SUV thing, lays on the horn, and then rams into the same SUV at the next intersection when it makes a right out of the next lane over.

Geoj posted:

Love this exchange at 4:50. Taxi runs the wrong way between two other taxis, tries to run and gets boxed in by a bus and one of the two taxis he just sideswiped.

Watching that video its pretty obvious having a dashcam is pretty much required while driving wherever the footage is being taken.

meatpimp posted:

1) You're an idiot if you get under a car that is missing any parts without a jackstand. I admit, I'll crawl under from the side with just a floor jack (not the factory bullshit, see below), but as soon as there's a wheel off or other component that will allow the car to go ALL the way down? There's a jackstand under that bitch.

2) Some OEM jacks are exercises in the absurd. We dropped a brand new, $40k Mercedes in ~1987, when $40k cars were expensive. Using the factory jack on a flat, concrete garage floor.

The right rear wheel had a flat and we were changing it. Used the factory jack in the factory location. For those cars, there were holes in the side that you put a rod from the jack into, then cranked the jack up. The problem was that the jack had a 4-loving-inch wide base, which was about as stable as a Kardashian marriage. We got the wheel off, only to watch the jack slowly pivot and dump the car onto the ground. Luckily no damange, but goddamn.

What does a "jack" like that look like? Gaze upon its majesty:

Left Ventricle posted:

A neighbor did this on his '89 Grand Marquis a couple years back:


It held for a long time, not just to the tire shop. Pretty sure he drove it like that for a couple weeks.

KozmoNaut posted:

I'm using one of these cheap foot pump dealies, so I'm filling my tires with however humid air is around me at the time. Doesn't seem to affect anything.

Motronic posted:

It's is a thing, and it's not particularly dangerous at all. Most of the R12 replacements (like Freeze-12) are mostly propane.

It's a lovely substitute for R-12, but actually works a bit better than R-134a in the right application.


Try 200+ when compressed in an AC system.

Propane's vapor pressure is 150 PSI at 90F/32C. So your gas grill tank is holding that pressure of propane all summer long.

Edit: revmoo wasn't talking about refrigerant pressures at all, now....was he? I'm a dumbass.

You Am I posted:

I guess with AC stuff, stop loving idiots in the Australian community being bigger loving idiots, but makes it hard if you want to do a quick refill of your AC system.

Chinatown posted:

How fast would you have to be going in order to do that.

chrisgt posted:

I hydrolocked the ea81 in my Subaru at decently high RPMs. Cranked the water past the rings. Lots more cranking it fired up and I drove it home. Changed the oil, and it's been fine for many thousand miles. Good compression and nice oil pressure.
Oil analysis came back from blackstone, and they didn't say it was eating itself.

I guess I've found an engine tougher than a jeep 4.0...

grover posted:

Lord Gaga posted:

I am not an expert but there shouldnt be galvanic corrosion between a steel bolt and an a probably high silicon cast aluminum alternator housing. Especially since most automotive bolts are coated but even if theyre not.

bolind posted:

The fun part is the Swedish plates (I'm in Denmark). Cars are much, much cheaper in Sweden, so some people will illegally drive a Swedish plated car in Denmark. This is a biiiig nono. If you get caught driving a foreign car as a danish national, without the foreign owner being physically in the car, your fine is twice the tax and registration you'd theoretically owe. For the car pictured, we're probably talking somewhere between 50k and 100k USD. Needless to say, only people with little to lose do this. (Or fuckoff rich people who don't give a poo poo.)

So in conclusion, that car was probably crashed with someone driving it who very much shouldn't have, and that's why it's just sitting.

bolind posted:

If there's interest, I can start a thread about these crazy shenanigans, how it all got here, and what effects it has... it's actually all quite fascinating, if it wasn't so loving depressing.

2ndclasscitizen posted:

Trap sprung, LNP supporter spotted.

Ferremit posted:

Amusingly my 3 tonne landcruiser is the same rego as a commodore station wagon- 6cyl station wagon. It's still ~$800 a year tho, that's rego and compulsory 3rd party bodily injury insurance combined.

My old red hilux was ~$1000 a year last renewal because it's considered a "commercial vehicle" because of the tray on it. It's never carried a commercial load in its life, but you cant not pay the extra even if you remove the tray!