|
It's fine; the high pressure will just push any contaminants through the filter. It won't.
|
#
¿
Apr 12, 2013 19:33
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 14:51 |
|
|
You need to replace a knock sensor? O.o
|
|
#
¿
Apr 19, 2013 01:10
|
|
|
Yeah, I'm aware. I'm just surprised that there are single isolated failures (and not, you know, a systematic problem). I work on knock sensors too so I see a lot of not-broken knock sensors, which is why I'm so surprised it needs to get replaced. On the other hand, maybe that's why they're fine with placing the knock sensor where they did, because the likelihood of failure is so low. edit: on the other hand, maybe there is some systematic issue with Xterras. I don't know about Nissans. totalnewbie fucked around with this message at 02:11 on Apr 19, 2013 |
|
#
¿
Apr 19, 2013 02:09
|
|
|
Huh. I wonder who the supplier is (but probably not us :P ) and why. Interesting, thanks. Maybe a routing problem on the Xterra or something. Man, some of the problems we see (not necessarily with knock sensors) have weirdest causes... totalnewbie fucked around with this message at 02:22 on Apr 19, 2013 |
|
#
¿
Apr 19, 2013 02:16
|
|
|
14 INCH DETECTIVE posted:The last 2 or 3 our shop have done have always been early to mid '00s Xterras, so I can't say for sure if any other engines are affected. That connector looks awful. Is it the wire coming of the connector becoming frayed or something?
|
|
#
¿
Apr 19, 2013 04:39
|
|
|
I do and we do. But, depending on the manufacturer and the product, we don't always receive 100% of warranties. Test failures, though, we definitely get 100% (or close to it; sometimes test engineers drop them and they break, etc. or there's failures due to other known issues, though we often get those back anyway and have to examine them). Anyway for warranties, it really depends, but we do look at them. There's a lot of work that goes into sensors and a lot of points for failure. If you keep getting poo poo sensors, it's probably because you're not buying ours  But yeah, in summary, we examine everything that we get (~100% test returns, and whatever percent of warranty returns we get, which is agreed upon between us and the engineer).
|
|
#
¿
Apr 19, 2013 22:01
|
|
|
Yeah, is it the same P-code? P0328/0325?quote:Get it repaired This is HILARIOUS.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 19, 2013 22:11
|
|
|
If you look hard enough, you can find where I work on the forums, but I'll just not make it easier. Well, it shouldn't be pretty hard to guess, in any case. But anyway, I actually work on spark plugs (and knock sensors). Also, we don't make the sensors you mentioned.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 19, 2013 23:24
|
|
|
Knock sensors are dead simple. It's basically a http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Piezoelectric_sensor with two terminals to the ECU. Element materials can change resulting in slightly different outputs (Frequency response differs, but generally fall within a manufacturer's requirements), connectors can change (some have pigtails whereas others are direct connects), and there are other design differences. But yeah, they're basically the same. Where did the knock sensor crack? I'd be interested in a picture if/after you take it out.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 19, 2013 23:32
|
|
|
I love this thread.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 21, 2013 04:20
|
|
|
I had my master brake cylinder go out at 1 PM on the Washington Beltway as I was driving from North Carolina to New Jersey. Fortunately, I was in the left most lane so I made it onto the shoulder without hitting anyone. Unfortunately, I spent my weekend being pissed off in a hotel because the parts store was closed.
|
|
#
¿
May 3, 2013 01:25
|
|
|
Heh... funny story. I did that to a plug while running a test, except it was in a jig and not a cylinder head, and it broke at the crimp bulge and not at the seat (a result of me using the wrong end of the jig). It was stuck nice and tight. Had to put the bit of the metal shell that was poking out in a vice and use a breaker bar on the jig to get it out. Basically, what I mean to say is, someone probably torqued it too much when installing it and you should beat him over the head about it. Unless it's you 
|
|
#
¿
Jun 11, 2013 14:38
|
|
|
They should sponsor this thread.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 12, 2013 22:16
|
|
|
Devyl posted:
They were TOLD that that was going to happen but they didn't believe it. Welp. Champion plugs are pretty awful, quality-wise. I can't go into details but seriously, don't buy Champion (or e3 or torch, who are jokes) and stick with NGK or Denso, or Bosch if you hate Japan.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 4, 2013 02:25
|
|
|
some texas redneck posted:Used NGK in everything I've owned except for my very first car (I was 17 and dumb). Current car has Delcos from the factory, and it's getting somewhat close to time to change them (not by miles - just broke 73k - but it's 8 years old, and doesn't seem to start as easy as it used to) - totalnewbie, any experience with NGKs in the GM Ecotec (2.2)? I know they run like absolute garbage with Bosch, but the plugs also have a tapered seat (something I've never dealt with). I'm used to crush washers. Yea, the OEM plug in that engine is NGK part number ILTR5B11 GM currently and will forever insist on conical seat spark plugs because they think there is a technical advantage over gaskets. Kind of obvious, I guess, but it's not just because they think it looks prettier. Also, it's the same reason why GM spark plugs don't have a corrugated insulator while other makers use corrugation. This is mostly for GMNAO - if you look at spark plugs from engines developed by GME, for example, you can find gaskets and corrugation.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 4, 2013 16:32
|
|
|
Though engineers typically don't go "ehhh, it'll probably be alright" when it comes to fiery death.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 24, 2013 01:26
|
|
|
Cockmaster posted:I'm pretty sure the "no towing" thing has nothing to do with crash safety and everything to do with the amount of torque the drivetrain was built for. There are a number of hybrid SUVs on the market rated for towing (such as the Highander), though usually not as much as the conventional version. Yeah, my point was just that "there's trunk space" between the batteries and a potential battery-piercing metal rod isn't really a good reason to stick the battery-piercing metal rod there. IPCRESS posted:Ford Motor Company would like a word. Heh yeah...
|
|
#
¿
Jul 24, 2013 04:18
|
|
|
A nut, a bolt, it all makes sense now.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 30, 2013 21:54
|
|
|
Citycop posted:I think with the size and the loads put on them they are reaching the limit of what Steel can do. I am no engineer but at those pressures it seems to me all of the steel supporting structures just act like giant springs and with each repeated stress and release the metal just gets harder and less springy until it finally snaps. That's called fatigue and it is, indeed, a major issue with any part that experiences any sort of cyclic stress. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fatigue_(material)
|
|
#
¿
Aug 16, 2013 02:36
|
|
|
sandoz posted:The thing about steel is that most common alloys have a stress limit below which they are not subject to any fatigue at all. Aluminum doesn't have this feature, which is why aircraft have a limited life span. Certainly, but in actual applications, the fatigue limit is unavoidably decreased by factors such as corrosion, mechanical damage, inclusions, etc. Therefore, even though steels exhibit "infinite endurance" below a certain stress level, it is still of the utmost importance to take fatigue into consideration and ensure that the part is designed to stay below that stress level. Also, I just wanted to point out the proper idea/concept behind his thoughts.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 16, 2013 14:52
|
|
|
Just passed a beater sitting in the suicide lane with a cop car parked behind it, lights flashing, and three teenagers on the side of the road looking somewhat unhappy. Didn't get a picture but the right front wheel was turned over 90 degrees and shoved back into the wheel well. Must have been a pretty scary moment...
|
|
#
¿
Aug 27, 2013 19:51
|
|
|
Titanium is lighter than most steels and aluminiums for the same performance.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 5, 2013 19:51
|
|
|
Material choice is a complicated issue. When it comes to wheels, you're basically looking at the trade-off between light-weight vs strength vs. cost (basic material cost and fabrication cost). Roughly, you can put the three ideas on a triangle with each property on a vertex. Obviously, steel wheels sit somewhere close to the line between strength and cost. Aluminium obviously sits somewhere away from that line. As for titanium and magnesium, what you might find is that (for various considerations I'm not familiar with and can't guess at), the benefits of titanium over magnesium is too much overshadowed by cost, and thus you have no titanium wheels. Or, perhaps there are other issues with titanium that are not experienced by magnesium (for example, ease of fabrication) that really kills the idea.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 5, 2013 20:24
|
|
|
CarForumPoster posted:No. The density per tensile strength of 6Al-4V vs a high strength wrought aluminum like 7075 is about the same. That Ti alloy is 60% more dense than 7075. When you add in safety factors the aluminum design will usually be slightly lighter unless you're designing for very high cycle fatigue where its possible the titanium will be slightly lighter only through very good design. Most. Of course there are high-strength steels and aluminiums that beat titanium, but they are expensive and I'm not sure necessary for this application. Do you happen to know what alloys are used for wheels? I really don't; maybe they do use something like a 7075. Also, did you say high-cycle fatigue? On a WHEEL? :P InitialDave posted:I really need to start a business selling people car components made out of completely inappropriate but exotic-sounding material for five times what would be considered reasonable. Line up for your Inconel lug nuts here, folks! Inconel is hardly exotic  It's a fairly common nickel-chrome alloy.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 5, 2013 21:59
|
|
|
Didn't the architect design some verandas or something that would provide shade and prevent that from happening, but they got taken out for budget reasons?
|
|
#
¿
Sep 9, 2013 14:39
|
|
|
Well, that's certainly impressive. Do I see signs of fatigue or is it all brittle fracture?
|
|
#
¿
Sep 12, 2013 22:37
|
|
|
Sudo Echo posted:According to the post it was fatigue due to bad metallurgy from the factory. $630,000 in parts and $24,000/hour in lost income while that thing is down too. Is this post public somewhere?
|
|
#
¿
Sep 12, 2013 22:49
|
|
|
Maybe if you could extract all the precious metal. All the precious metal exists as a thin film on a honey-comb-like ceramic substrate.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 29, 2013 20:28
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:NGK plugs are all I run though. I'm only dimly aware that other brands even exist. The best part about NGKs is buying them for an old Japanese car, getting NOS left over at the warehouse and thus having the retro 70s packaging on some of them. Retro 70s packaging? Do you mean the yellow boxes? Because those are, hilariously, definitely still current packaging. And when it comes to broken spark plugs, it's really the center electrode breaking off that ends up causing damage. The ground electrodes are small enough that they can make it past the valves. The center electrode, though, tends to cause problems if it goes, as it's a much bigger piece. That said, the center electrode doesn't break off unless there's already something seriously wrong with the engine and/or calibration. The only time you'd ever want to run Bosch +4s is if you cannot get your car to stop fouling AND going to a hotter heat range will cause pre-ignition. Someone mentioned NGK and Denso "Twin tip" plugs. From what I've seen, then Denso plugs basically form the ground electrode "tip" by punching the ground electrode material. NGK plugs have a platinum pin (kind of like the one on the center electrode, though that material is an iridium alloy) welded onto the ground electrode, which is better for durability. Depending on the engine, the wear on the ground electrode can be pretty severe, and especially in those designs, as the tips have smaller surface areas and thus more gap growth.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 18, 2013 15:31
|
|
|
I, too, was staring at the springs and wondering what I was looking at. And then I saw kastein's post, saw the control arm(s?) and literally said "oh my god". He might as well superglued those things together for how well they're going to hold up. He says he has a "death wobble". Apt words...
|
|
#
¿
Nov 23, 2013 01:36
|
|
|
Sudo Echo posted:
Nope, I'd say it's perfect.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 26, 2013 05:32
|
|
|
That's why people say don't buy Chrysler.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 31, 2014 00:43
|
|
|
wrong thread
|
|
#
¿
Feb 21, 2014 22:22
|
|
|
nm posted:I don't know why everyone else doesn't. I know it costs more, but it is really hurting mazda, I think. I think honda rot also still hurts midwestern honda sales. Most people have no loving clue about cars and just go with things like "Honda is reliable!" or, better yet, "Japanese is reliable!" Or they'll say, "I'm buying American" = Big 3, no other thought put into it. And believe me, when you see automotive companies' purchasing departments squeezing for pennies from every car, it wouldn't surprise you at all. When the choice is between making a car that will last a long time and doesn't benefit the automaker at all in terms of sales numbers or spending a lot more money to make people have to buy a new car less often, which are they going to choose?
|
|
#
¿
Mar 24, 2014 04:57
|
|
|
Viking Blood posted:Rapid Unplanned Dimensional Alteration I'm sure that bronze has been hardened extensively.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 5, 2014 13:42
|
|
|
That may just be because the driving cycles they use to determine that is not very realistic, compared to actual driving.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 13, 2014 12:35
|
|
|
Oh my god, the sound of the crane operator's voice, just such raw, pure emotion.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 29, 2014 01:12
|
|
|
Powershift posted:That's broken. I'd check your valves more than the piston. You might look into getting regular spark plugs if you don't have problems with fouling. What car do you drive?
|
|
#
¿
Jul 31, 2014 01:42
|
|
|
Godholio posted:Aren't these generally poo poo for most engines? Yes - their ignitability is poor due to all of the ground electrodes sucking up the heat/energy during initial combustion phase. On the other hand, they're great if you're constantly fouling - but you could just go to a hotter heat range, instead.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 1, 2014 06:01
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 14:51 |
|
|
Re: spark plug chat Please torque your spark plugs correctly   AC Delco hasn't made their own spark plugs in YEARS since they sold all their poo poo to... uhh, Torch, I think it was? That was years ago. GM gets all their AC Delco plugs from their OEM suppliers. GM and Ford insist on conical seat plugs because they're special snowflakes. Almost every other OEM in the world uses gaskets. And don't use Champion. Just don't. I can't repeat the stories I've heard about Champion but, suffice it to say, the only thing they've got going for them is that they're dirt cheap... which, if you consider the fact that their market share in the OEM world is very low despite being dirt cheap, doesn't offer much confidence in their actual product.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 1, 2014 22:24
|
|