|
Jan posted:What about its battery life? Reviews are stating 4-6 hours, which is pretty bad. I'd rather be using the cable mode as the exception, not the norm. Apparently I've had a G700 (the classic one) for, wow, about 3 years now I think? It's 'broken' quite a few times, but based on this thread, pretty much all mice break anyway (eg lmb double clicks etc), however I tend to fix my own mice and have never used Logitech's apparently fantastic warranty service. The battery life is bad, but I don't think it's quite as bad as 4-6 hours. While my guess is that I don't use it all that much, I probably get at least 2 computer-days use out of it per charge, and it'll charge from my computer's USB while the machine's off. Though I can tell the difference between super awesome 1000 times a second polling and 125 times a second polling, it doesn't seem like a big deal, and just run with 125 (there's a bunch of inbetween options, too), so that probably helps battery usage a lot, and use power saver as my power mode, and have never had any problems with that. It'll will work at 'critical' battery level for really quite a long time - probably longer than all the other power levels combined. At least, that's been my experience with some duracell/energizer 'high performance' 2500mAH batteries anyway; if you feed it eneloops (IIRC it comes with one) maybe this is different. It's worth swapping the AA battery it uses out probably every year or so, since with the regular recharging they stop being great after a while (in fact it's high time I do this) After 3 years use, the only real signs of wear are a) some of the grip coming off from the thumb area right below the buttons, and b) the mouse wheel is a bit raggy looking either side of the rubber inner band thing. Using it with the cable is pretty rare, and is always as a last resort (ie the battery literally dies on me), but I don't play any games where this would actually be a big deal. Also, the Logitech logo is still on it and is completely pristine. The mouse will indeed retain its settings without the software, though I think any mouse that talks about onboard memory or 'stored profiles' works this way. I may still be using some ancient version of the software (I'm definitely not using Logitech gaming software) so I can't be 100% sure about this, but at least they seem to be referred to as Generic Button 1-5 in what I'm using (I use keystrokes for everything). I don't know if it's changed, but No idea how much of this has changed for the S version (god it looks stupid), or the newer software, though. My opinion/experiences may not be comparable to what you're looking for, though, I probably game once/week, if that, but also use it for work, which is a little more comparable vs browsing etc. edit - also I would say it's the best mouse I've ever owned, but I haven't owned a lot of mice. Upgrade path was MX700->MX1000->G700 Quaternion Cat fucked around with this message at 00:30 on Oct 8, 2013 |
#
¿
Oct 7, 2013 23:52
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 25, 2024 07:50 |
|
|
Too Poetic posted:Any reason to get the G602 over the G700? 3. The 602 apparently doesn't have a tilting scroll wheel - I guess some people don't like tilting scroll wheels... so maybe that's a reason, too? It's a dealbreaker for me, though.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 29, 2013 03:16
|
|
|
Goo posted:Mastigophoran - for everyone who tells me that leaving a tilt wheel out is a dealbreaker, I can find a person who would tell me that there's no way a gaming mouse should have a tilt wheel had we put one in. It's unfortunately impossible to make everyone happy. Yeah, I can certainly believe it. To be honest, I'm glad the wheel-of- I... don't really think of the G700 as a gaming mouse though. If you ditched the over the top laser sensor, it could easily be an iteration in your high end desktop range of mice (MX700,1000,Revolution etc) and, really, it was those aspects that made it a product I wanted. The way mice seem to be being designed more specifically for a particular role nowerdays has actually been sort of terrible for me.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 29, 2013 05:20
|
|
|
JaredBS posted:My Logitech g9x started to double click when holding down the right button and support wanted to replace it with another model. No thanks. So I opened it up and sprayed a bit of WD40 on the microswitches and now it works perfectly WD40 is not necessarily a great choice for this purpose; don't use much, because it really needs to be cleaned off itself afterwards, because otherwise it hangs around and dries out, and may just gunk up your button again. At a guess, you're not aiming to lubricate the button or anything, you're just trying to 'clean' it - your mouse components really don't need want any lubricant on them, and in fact they're all very small and fiddly and sometimes just poking them a little bit is all that's needed to get them behaving a bit. I open up my G700 all the time, because I don't care about warranties (because I am a fool). Since it has those large pad feet that cover large areas, I actually used a craft knife to cut holes through the feet where the screws are, so I wouldn't have to risk peeling the feet off: they never really go back on right the 2nd/3rd time, and I've never noticed a difference with the holes being there, but, the G700 has really quite large feet. I've also had to open up the LMB/RMB micro switches and poked them a bit to get them to behave, too, though all I did was gently scrub the tip of said craft knife over the contact areas inside, and that actually cleared up my problems with the mouse button releasing when being held. Whether it was the act itself or just messing with them that fixed it, I don't know. Some super pro advice: If you do take your mouse apart, try not to lose any of the bits. The G700's mouse wheel, if you decide to remove it, has some springs that help it come back up when clicked. Don't lose those.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 5, 2013 23:55
|
|
|
JaredBS posted:I threw away so many wonky mices over the years when all it seems to take is a screwdriver and some bending / scrubbing Well, don't feel too bad; sometimes there's really nothing you can do. Mice really are not designed to be user serviceable, and if you have a warranty to fall back on it's usually the best option. If a cable goes or any mouse buttons eg just entirely stop working, there's usually not much you can do yourself.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 6, 2013 00:47
|
|
|
black.lion posted:The data/charge cord that comes with the G700s seems really appealing in theory, but I worry that the connector would get wobbly and loose over a year or two - how is the construction quality? Going further than what big mean giraffe said, the G700/s uses a USB Micro B connector, and comes with a custom made cable with an oversized & shaped plastic shroud that fits into the front of the mouse, making a very strong mechanical connection: I guess it's probably impossible for it to get wobbly, ever. Plus, if you had to, you can at least replace the cable with any standard one you had on hand, since micro B also locks in fairly well just on its own. You can kinda see it on the logitech store page. Otherwise, I think the G700S is supposed to offer an even higher DPI over the original 700 (big woop) - what impact that has on battery life I don't know, but you're not buying the G700 for battery life, I'd hope - as well as 'more robust' microswitches for lmb/rmb - rated to 20 million clicks, apparently.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 17, 2013 23:07
|
|
|
Nephilm posted:Might be worth a try. I'll look up a disassembly guide to make sure I don't break anything on the way in. You should probably try without taking it apart first, just like aiming the air to one side of the wheel and then the other, repeating a few times after rotating the wheel a little bit. edit VVVV Right, well, fair enough then! Quaternion Cat fucked around with this message at 19:28 on Feb 5, 2014 |
|
#
¿
Feb 5, 2014 19:23
|
|
|
NihilCredo posted:I think I harvested the Proteus Core for a sidequest in Borderlands 1, or was it 2? Actually, I think it might have a free wheel mode? It has a raised button with the same icon printed on it that my G700 has. They also describe it on their website as a dual mode wheel, the same language they use on eg the G700s' page, so... Also it looks like it has a tilting scroll wheel, based on the arrows either side of it. That might put people off. And the colour scheme is probably to match their newish range of stuff including the G430 headset. It's better than the gamer-stripes I guess?
|
|
#
¿
Apr 8, 2014 23:54
|
|
|
fookolt posted:I actually like scroll tilt; it's great for when you do need to horizontally scroll. What do people not like about it? Personally? I'm not 100% sure, I'm a big fan of them too, but apparently there is a non insignificant subset of people who don't like them, which came up when the G602 was being talked about a while back. I think it might have something to do with the mouse wheel becoming slightly wobbly? I've always preferred shift+scroll for actually scrolling horizontally though, and just have very appreciated key binds on the tilt - I just wish more software supported shift+scroll.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 9, 2014 00:17
|
|
|
Megadyptes posted:so I gotta switch from a regular mouse to trackball due to hosed up arm/wrist and was wondering what's a decent trackball that doesn't cost too much? There's that logitech m750 that looks pretty good but I'm not sure about a thumb trackball, are those less precise? and a bunch of kensington things but they look like they lack buttons and I'm rather fond of the back/forward buttons on my current G400s My husband recently picked up a logitech M570, which is I assume is what you meant, to basically give trackballs a try - it seems really really great as a first track ball for the money. He hasn't been using it very long (almost a month, but not full time), so, he's not 100% sure about how good he'll eventually get with it but has a gut feeling: He's used some fingertip trackballs like decades ago and basically feels that probably it won't be as precise due to being a thumb ball, but also because it has a smaller ball compared to some of the more prestige tier trackballs you can get. It is perfectly good for his regular doings and gaming though. The fact that it's wireless and has a tiny unifying receiver + crazy battery life was also a big selling point for him vs some of the other choices, as he often uses it with a laptop. We picked it up because of a few positive recommendations upthread, as well as from a friend. I'll dig up the links to the posts here in an edit. edit OK well I poked around and didn't find too much relevant stuff, but there was this a few pages back that you may've seen already, talking about some of the top tier kensington balls and also this a lot of pages ago talking about how the M570 is good for everything except online FPSes, something that doesn't fit into my husband's gaming behaviour. There's also the website http://www.trackballmouse.org/ that is basically devoted to like, trackballs - we got some helpful info from there too, even if the people who write for it are a bit, uh, well... weird? Quaternion Cat fucked around with this message at 21:38 on Jul 7, 2014 |
|
#
¿
Jul 7, 2014 21:10
|
|
|
real_scud posted:You should've at least linked the AMA - http://www.reddit.com/r/IAmA/comments/2ctdbm/iama_product_manager_for_gaming_mice_at_logitech/ Thanks for linking it. Reading through it, the few responses of 'well, we make different mice because some people love feature X and others can't stand it!' reminded me of something that has kind of been bothering me when Logitech's new products have launched and I've felt like 'OK tell me everything about this mouse!', and look at their website: Sometimes it's actually kinda annoying to figure out what features a mouse does and does not have just based on reading the pages for them alone. It would be really nice if the info for when you use the product comparison feature they have was also included somewhere on the page (eg in the spec) or something, since it'd make it instantly clear if there's a tilt wheel or what kind of sensor they use without having to compare it with some other mouse that does have that feature. There's just didn't seem to be one place to look to really get the lo-down on their new mice, I usually end up needing to read the marketing, the spec, and do a product comparison to feel like I know everything, and it'd be nice if they were at least all on the same page. I guess it'd be nice if some more of those big dividing lines were included in the spec? Then again, maybe I'm missing something. (Also hoping for a G702 some day. Well, some kind of update to the G700 anyway? I've never really understood how the G602 and the G600 were related after the 502 and 402 came out to suggest that pattern)
|
|
#
¿
Aug 7, 2014 18:35
|
|
|
real_scud posted:I'm pretty sure Goo has hinted at a G702 being in the works but because it's in the works he can't actually talk about it until it's officially announced. Yeah, I know; I mean, I can't imagine something wouldn't be in the works either way, but he always seems to appreciate people showing their interest. You can see why they don't talk about them though - it's kind of interesting really to see the (somewhat unusual) features they've been adding to their line up recently, and how they imply the customers they are designing their mice for - strange high speed accelerometers for the low sensitivity market, a 3rd main mouse button for their MMO users, insanely high DPI and a tunable sensor for the, I assume, high sensitivity market. I'm not really sure who the G700 was designed for, other than someone who really likes draining batteries, but whatever they come up with, it's probably going to be pretty amazing.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 7, 2014 21:37
|
|
|
Coxswain Balls posted:If you're a DIY kind of person, the repair for the doubleclick issue is pretty straightforward. The Anywhere MX is perfect for everything I use it for, so I have one for work and one for home. The only flaw is that damned microswitch issue, which has led to a lot of issues. Wow, the switches in the Anywhere MX seem like they would be waaay easier to swap than the usual through-hole fair you find in a lot of mice, so this is probably a really easy repair job? I would definitely encourage someone to give it a go if they're even slightly inclined. How have the Anywhere's mouse feet responded to being peeled off? Also, I'm not sure if these are anything like the the larger microswitches you'd usually find in a mouse, but, you may be able to save even that 1 dollar if it's possible to take the switch apart in situ and gently scrape/clean the contacts inside it - it's what I do with my G700 when it misbehaves with double clicks since it's *basically* impossible to get access to desolder the switches on it - be prepared to have the switch fall apart on you and have to spend 20 minutes figuring out how it all goes back together. (Though to be honest spending the dollar on a new switch is probably a better investment of your time.)
|
|
#
¿
Aug 14, 2014 12:04
|
|
|
Coxswain Balls posted:Removing the feet takes a bit of care, since they use a foam-like adhesive to stick to the mouse, but they do come off cleanly and without stretching/tearing if you do it slowly and with some sort of edged tool. The first time I did it I was impatient and stretched out the adhesive foam a little; I was able to get the feet back on and they flatted out after a week of use, but a bit of adhesive is out in the open and picks up more dust than usual. I was more careful with the second mouse, and it turned out perfectly. Yeah... mouse feet are often a 'you kinda mess up the first time a little' sort of activity - 2nd time round I opted to slice little holes through the G700's big, but very thin, pads since they have so much surface area it doesn't make a difference, which I can't imagine would work well with the anywhere MX based on your description. The switches seem much harder to get into than the ones my mice have used, but it'd be nice to be able to more easily replace them. Much like headphone cables, really, we all know the cable is gonna break way before the headphones themselves are, but drat if they're ever user replaceable. Fancy_Lad posted:The question around getting the Performance MX is more centered around a principle thing where I don't really want to throw money at a product with a well known defect that the company hasn't deemed necessary to correct. Honestly from what I've seen, Logitech, like basically every other high end mouse manufacturer, are using some of the best quality microswitches that are available, especially in their top end mice. I'm not really sure what they could possibly not be doing, or be doing differently from their competition in terms of components, such that they uniquely suffer from it. The internet seems to claim it's 'oxidation' but I doubt that's based on anything other than 'messing with the microswitch's metal surfaces a bit seems to help', but ultimately they, and every other mouse maker, are almost at the mercy of the people who create the electronic components they use in their products. Perhaps the firmware could more aggressively attempt to ignore these clicks/releases that seem to come with both age and use, but I'm sure what they've elected for in terms of debouncing is already on the cusp of what they feel is acceptable. Then again, without being able to put a mouse on an oscilloscope, I have no idea what does and doesn't get through, and no experience in the industry to have even a beginning idea of how fast a person can actually click to know what perhaps ought to be filtered. I'm sure the musings of a bedroom engineer are basically a joke as far as their actual engineering dept are concerned, but, I'm sure they'd love to solve the problem if it saves them posting out thousands of new mice every year.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 15, 2014 01:01
|
|
|
I bought a new Logitech headset that uses the Logitech Gaming Software to configure it. I also have a Logitech G700 mouse. I have avoided LGS previously because, generally speaking, I think it looks kinda stupid, was annoying to use the few times I've tried it before, and adds basically nothing to my experience. Normally I just use the version of SetPointII/SetPointG (same program, different names) my G700 basically came with - the version that wasn't the old SetPoint, but was for their gaming mice before LGS came along - it states its version is 5.46.10, but who knows if that's accurate - I thought it was 6.something. Either way, I've had LGS running for something like 2 days to give it another whirl because of the headphones, and in that time it has reset all the DPI settings for my mouse twice, I guess just of its own accord. I wouldn't mind if resetting the DPI options wasn't a huge pain: I can do it manually and have it set the sensitivity to next to nothing for 2 seconds every time I change a setting as well as sometimes prevent me from accessing one of the settings via the DPI cycle (eg it will use setting 1 2 3 1 5), or, I can load a profile which helpfully refuses to load the repeatedly saved key bindings for 3 of the 4 side buttons. Maybe it works better in 'game detection mode'? I occasionally move my mouse across several systems, and like the on board options just fine. Also the old software didn't reset my mouse in all the years I've had this mouse. I have quickly reached the conclusion that I don't really want LGS to manage my G700, and would like to use the old software, but, I guess I can't? Installing LGS prevents it from showing up in SetPointII any more, and based on previous experiments, I'm pretty sure getting rid of, ie uninstalling, LGS will put it back into SetPointII. But, no LGS means the additional options for the headset don't work, even if it were installed but not running. What am I supposed to do here? I can give up on the advanced features of the headset, or I guess maybe I can trawl my registry and see if there's something obvious to mess with to try and coax it back into the old SetPointII? I'm sure that would be simpler if I wasn't also running ANOTHER version of SetPoint, the regular old original one, for my keyboard. I guess maybe sometimes brand loyalty has downsides when you're looking at running 3 different versions of their software that purport to all do the same thing. Quaternion Cat fucked around with this message at 00:04 on Oct 5, 2014 |
|
#
¿
Oct 5, 2014 00:00
|
|
|
sout posted:I did some semi-successful mouse surgery today, fixed a problem on my Logitech G400 where it would constantly disconnect but in the process lost one of the springs for my scrollwheel, everything still works but it doesn't go clickety-clack when I scroll, which is my preference. I assume it is fully lost never to be seen again? I'm going to guess you started playing with it and it sprung off never to be seen again. I have done this no less than 3 times.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 11, 2014 06:44
|
|
|
Alan_Shore posted:Got a weird problem with my Logitech G700s (had it around 2 months). Yeah, you can replace it with any NiMH battery, I usually grab energizer or duracell high capacity ones, rather than eneloops: The mouse gets down to red reasonably quickly but still works for ages. (edit - by ages, I still only mean 2-3 days maximum on energy saver settings...) The G700 DOES kinda ruin batteries though, but it ruins mine over the course of about a year of use. 2 months is a bit quick though! To be fair, I'm not sure if it's just the recycle rate of once every 2-3 days, or if the G700 is maybe charging them a bit too quickly or something like that, but it seems to be worth replacing them every year or so. Ideally you'd probably want to get like a multimeter and check what voltage the battery has on it (possibly while under load), since I imagine it just can't hold a voltage any more for some reason, possibly it was just a duff in some way? If it happens to another battery, something might be wrong with your mouse, but, it's probably just a duff battery. One thing I would say is that if you literally *just* got it shipped to you, like today, did it travel through somewhere quite cold and did you let it warm up back to room temperature yet? Temperature can be a big deal for batteries. Quaternion Cat fucked around with this message at 18:30 on Mar 2, 2015 |
|
#
¿
Mar 2, 2015 18:27
|
|
|
Gwyrgyn Blood posted:I feel like they could cut 10g off the weight of the G502 by just changing to a normal mouse wheel. I was curious. I took the whole wheel assembly out of my G700 (so the wheel, the plastic frame, and mechanism for switching mods, the whole thing comes out with removing a plastic peg, it seems similar on the G502 based on a google search) and weighed it on the kitchen scales: 15 grams. Whole mouse weighs like 155 so it's 10% of the weight, or I guess it's 125g without the battery. So, it's not exactly light although I don't know how much a 'regular' wheel would weigh to compare really, while I imagine most of the weight is in the hefty metal wheels, 10g might be a bit of a stretch.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 17, 2015 17:09
|
|
|
Antillie posted:The scroll wheel on my Roccat Kova seems to have gone out. When I try to use it to scroll it just bounces the page up and down most of the time so it ends up hardly scrolling at all. (Which really sucks because its only a few months old.) This thread started a long time ago, and the 518 is expensive due to being old + scarcity. The existing mice that are 'like' the MX518 from logitech's current line up are probably like the G402 or G502, or slightly older, the G500S and G400S (if you're specifically interested in Logitech mice). Basically if you head to the major manufacturer's pages you should be able to see their current line up and try to match something up with your needs that's still being made. I'd also suggest you try and blow air in your mouse wheel if you haven't already - might just be like a hair in there causing your woes. I use an air pump for stuff like that, because compressed air isn't really a thing where I live (UK).
|
|
#
¿
Mar 27, 2015 18:30
|
|
|
The G700 & S do have abysmal battery life, sure, but usually we measure it in figures that are at least in excess of a whole day, rather than a few hours total. My G700 came with a 2000mAh eneloop, which is a really good battery, but, kind of completely wrong for the G700. As a general rule, if you stick with the same battery in the mouse and charge it with it, you'll probably be well served changing the battery out every year. I don't have any direct experience with the S, just the plain G700 classic, but I think most/at least a few of us turn down the DPI and eg the polling a little to whatever we're comfortable with, as well as enabling battery saving mode if that's still in LGS somewhere. Because yeah, the battery life is a loving joke, but it's usually not that bad, jesus. So probably try that first? But I mean, I'd definitely grab some different batteries for it to try that out, because owning some rechargeable batteries isn't exactly the worst thing in the world. I think I have some fancy expensive 2650mAh energizer rechargeable in mine. edit: oh, yes, this VVV. Absolutely this. Red lights don't mean poo poo, it's only dead when it actually stops. The Eneloop it used to come with in theory keeps its voltage up above 1.2v much longer than a traditional NiMH battery (this is one of their main selling points, the other being low self discharge) so perhaps the levels make more sense with this in mind. At some point I did a bunch of voltage level checks to see if I could work out exactly what was going on in my G700's brain but idk if I still have the spreadsheet. Quaternion Cat fucked around with this message at 19:32 on May 25, 2015 |
|
#
¿
May 25, 2015 14:25
|
|
|
Harik posted:It goes dead, not just red light, unfortunately. That's just really short - the non-recharables in my other wireless mice last months. Yeah, it's a real shame that the g700 is the way it is - purportedly it's got a lot to do with the sensor not being even remotely designed to be frugal with energy usage. It sounds a lot like it was a manager deciding they simply had to put a super ultra high dpi sensor in their new mouse, because it was a terrible decision from a usability perspective... To be honest there probably just weren't a lot of sensors available that were frugal and offered a 'decent'/marketable dpi. I wouldn't ever put a non rechargeable battery in my g700 because I know it's only a matter of time before it needs to be plugged in, but like I say you should be able to get plenty more than a few hours out of it. But yeah, it's short, it's the major downside to the mouse.
|
|
#
¿
May 27, 2015 14:53
|
|
|
Stabbey_the_Clown posted:My Logitech G500 is succumbing to the mouse double-clicks when you click once issue. Now there apparently is a way to fix that, if you disassemble your mouse and carefully re-bend a tiny spring inside a tiny switch, and I will attempt to repair it, but in case I just end up breaking it, what's a good WIRED gaming mouse (at least 5 buttons)? I have fixed double clicks in a G700 at least a dozen times, and I have never really found it necessary to actually rebend the spring part - just sort of poking it and make sure the contact surfaces are clean has usually done the job, scraping around on them a bit with another piece of metal has done it the other times. If the button has become mushy and no longer makes a nice, definitive click sound (or is on its way there), then it's probably worthwhile doing this, but otherwise, simply taking it apart and touching it might fix the issue? Might be better to try bending afterwards, since it might generate false positives, and trying to bend it, while still relatively safe, could put a crease in it that, well, wouldn't be good. I have however pinged the thing out by accident more than once, and completely lost it on one occasion - had to replace it with one from another similar microswitch that I had to modify to fit (different brand, involved filing off a metal nodule). I've also had to replace the little white plastic part of the switch - recreated one with a scalpel from a piece of similarly thick plastic because I lost that on some other occasion. Also I lost some springs that were in it that made the middle click rebound better and I had to fashion new ones out of wire. Also one of the tilt switches broke way early on and I fixed that too - pretty sure there are some lolly pop sticks holding a lower profile button up to function as a replacement. Many of my peripherals are sort of bizarre zombies on the inside, nowerdays. So, good luck, and I hope you're able to fix your mouse.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 28, 2015 21:43
|
|
|
Dead Goon posted:Looking around online I see the best like for like replacement would perhaps be the Logitech M570 but it's wireless and expensive. Wireless isn't a deal breaker, but costing more because of it is. My husband bought an M570, he picked it up from amazon as a 'non uk' model, and paid slightly less for it as a result, I think that version is still on amazon here? They were a little cheaper a while back, he paid £27.50 apparently. Possibly the price is more to do with age/scarcity than it is the wireless - this is sort of the trackball curse, as I'm sure you've noticed if you've looked up what a direct replacement would cost. I'm not currently aware of any other thumb trackballs except for a microsoft one from quite a long time ago, but most of what I know comes from having read the M570 review on http://www.trackballmouse.org/. I'm not sure that just-over-30-pound price is once you've seen and considered too much, or if you're balking at the £45-50 prices I've seen around. Also, the battery in it really does last a long time. If the problem is the clicking action on your old trackball, it may be very possible to repair it - either with new microswitches, or by cleaning out any debris in the moving plastic parts that might be making the action feel crunchier than it might actually be. Best part is, you don't have to worry too much about mangling the feet a bit to get at screws since it's a trackball. It looks relatively straight forward to swap out the microswitches if you have to do that, or uh, well, I'm also in the UK?
|
|
#
¿
Aug 29, 2015 18:14
|
|
|
Quaternion Cat fucked around with this message at 16:27 on Nov 24, 2015 |
|
#
¿
Nov 24, 2015 15:41
|
|
|
Gwyrgyn Blood posted:Anyone got any opinions on a decent couch-gaming setup? I've got a Steam Link which is pretty nice, but I'm trying to figure out if I can get a practical setup for playing stuff like turn based strategy. Wired or wireless doesn't matter. I was thinking Trackball is probably the most obvious choice to maximize usability and play-ability. Any suggestions on that front? Maybe something with a small and light couch-friendly keyboard? Logitech M570 is a pretty good, cheap, wireless trackball (though it is a thumb ball which has its downsides. Battery appears to last literally forever and uses unifying so can have a decent range. My solution a few years back when I did a bit of couch gaming was, for my keyboard, use synergy, back when it was free to send my netbook's (which I was happy to have on my lap) keyboard to my gaming PC, but still used an actual mouse connected to the gaming PC. If you went with the M570 I'd look for something logitech and unifying but I don't have any actual suggestions.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 1, 2015 02:22
|
|
|
Jizz Savior?
|
|
#
¿
Dec 31, 2015 15:40
|
|
|
Zigmidge posted:Welp, the latest LGS just chewed my g700 up and spat it out. Hi I meant to respond to you earlier but forgot and only just remembered about this. One time I had to talk to logitech support and they asked me to reset my mouse, which you could do supposedly by doing this; 1. Remove the batteries 2. Press and hold the left button 3. Insert the batteries while holding down the left button 4. Still holding the left button, press the right button 5 times 5. Let go of the buttons and test the mouse Also yes LGS is really bad 
|
|
#
¿
Jan 31, 2016 06:50
|
|
|
Bieeardo posted:I just got a replacement G602 under warranty and, with the original four month old mouse sitting here, I figure there's no harm in trying to diagnose and fix it. I have soldering gear and electronics experience, so I'm not inordinately concerned about trying to replace the switch if I need to, but I've still got a couple of questions. I would not personally worry about 3rd party mouse feet unless 1st party were unavailable or like 5x more expensive than decentish looking stuff on like ebay or amazon. Logitech put a lot of effort into that kind of thing so they'd be hard to beat. Your best bet is to replace like for like in terms of the microswitch, you can get get very cheap but similar form factor microswitches that are only rated to 10s of thousands of clicks, which you may hit within your mouse's life time, so do look for appropriately rated switches. Other broken or otherwise defunct mice are usually decent sources for replacement switches, or you can buy them online usually in 1s and 2s if needed. Many switch makers, eg Omron, make a large range of switches in a variety of sizes, ratings, and in the case of tactile switches, activation forces. Many tactile microswitches are colour coded for their force requirement, but these are usually used for eg side buttons and the like. None of the big names in switch making are really any better than anyone else and certainly none are immune to double click related problems, so, probably just stick with the type and brand inside of the mouse. (spoiler this is probably omron) You may actually be able to fix whatever is causing your existing microswitch from bouncing. It is unlikely to be mechanically exhausted due to over clicking as it's likely rated to millions of those, and is more likely to be experiencing some other kind of problem (such as making just enough of a poor contact due to eg dirt or other tarnish to cause issues, at least, based on the likely unscientific ramblings of the internet at large). But, here's what I would do: First of all, I would permanently but subtly mark the junk mouse that I have an identical copy of sitting next to it so I can always tell them apart. Then, I would find blurry uninformative pictures on the internet of the location of all the screws that are in the mouse; ala http://www.instructables.com/id/Repair-Logitech-G602-wheel-button/ - I would probe for these holes with a screw driver, then cut holes through the feet with a scalpel or exacto knife or whatever it is you like to use, and then bevel the edges (also with my bladed tool of choice) to prevent it from catching when I moved it. This does somewhat compromise your mouse feet, but, often so does taking them off as they love to separate into two pieces if you don't get perfectly under them, and you run that risk pretty much every time you have to get in in the future. I did this with a G700 that I've been inside of 20+ times. If I didn't want to do that, I guess I'd run the risk with taking off the feet. They do have a lot more surface area nowerdays, so I imagine they stick back on a lot better than the small feet of older mice, which would sometimes come off just through normal use after a while. The alternative is buy replacement feet and just assume it will go wrong (which might be worth doing anyway as first time doing something like this means pretty good destruction odds). Once you're inside though, look at the plastic underside of the physical mouse button and check for obvious wear where it meets the microswitch. If there's like a massive notch in it then that is a more likely issue than something with the microswitch. If there's like a light mark but it appears flat then it's probably fine. You can also have a look around and see if the underside of microswitch is even accessible (for example, it isn't in a G700, but the images above suggest it is for the 602), but I would first leave it in situ and look at contact cleaning sprays or similar which might revitalise the copper contacts inside it. Well, actually what I would do is use some kind of tool to pick open the plastic clasps of the microswitch and look at what the deal is inside of it (being weary of the small unattached piece of plastic that forms the actual button that you should be very careful to keep track of) - you can see some pictures of what that might look like here*. Then I'd probably gently scrape the contacts with a metal tool of some kind and hope I don't ping the microswitch's internals off into the distance, or, I'd try and wedge a massive oversize piece of cloth in like those guys I just linked with some solvent based cleaner on it. Then stick the switch back together (I tend to do this upside down for reasons that will become apparent if you take the top off) and with the top still off, power it up and give it a go to see if it mostly works. If successful, then pop the top back on and go a-mousing. If the metal spring contact does come out of the microswitch, you can put it back together but it's super fiddly, look at reference photos to check you're doing it right. It is popular to take it out and 'adjust it' so that it provides a more solid 'click', but the force needed is very similar to the force needed to bend it to be all hosed up and destroy it, so don't do that unless you actually have a problem with mushy clicks. Best of luck I guess, and sorry if this is a bit rambley.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 18, 2016 22:58
|
|
|
Backyarr posted:The best solution would involve a bit of soldering: completely disassemble the mouse, and unsolder the microswitches, which are the small black devices with a small white button at the top to either side of the wheel in this picture: I'd try to clean the existing microswitch's internal contacts before doing this because there's something like an array of 12 or 14 metal pins that connect the upper and lower boards, and which are all soldered in in close proximity, and without the right tool, it's non trivial to completely desolder all of these and get the entire upper board free, which you must do to get the needed access to remove the switches. Also, it means removing the mouse wheel, which if you were to do, you should be made aware that a) it comes out in one piece by removing a single plastic pin on the upper back of it, and b) there are two tiny springs that are important and that you should keep track of, which are contained in plastic divots under the front side of the mouse wheel's clear plastic enclosure. I guess you can see some of what is involved here. I have prolonged the life of my G700 by cracking the sucker open and doing work on it, I've only removed the upper PCB the one time and I don't think it was a good idea even then, so if the existing switches are salvageable I would always suggest trying that first. It looks like frankenstein's monster inside, I should probably take a picture of it some day. (Honestly one of the most impressive things about it is that it still has that old logitech logo on it, clear, proud and undamaged; never seen a logo stand up to every day use like this one.)
|
|
#
¿
Mar 9, 2016 17:21
|
|
|
Backyarr posted:Do you think this method would work? The switches look to be identical but I could be wrong. Yeah, I think that method would work real well; check my post history in this thread. Also, it turns out that the inside of my mouse + flash is kinda gross, it picks up all the tiny bits of dust that are inside it. Still, here are the current cuts of my mouse;    For reference, the tilt right button stopped working and I replaced it with what I had, removing what was there is why I took the top board off. Unfortunately, doing so kind of wrecked some of the pads/their traces, and required some repair work which involved soldering onto the side button set's connector. Removing the shroud I think inevitably caused further openings to damage the pads holding the connector's pins in, and required more work to restore functionality. Also at some point I lost both springs that support the wheel (I made replacements, but you really don't want to lose them) and one of the screws. Hope that's at least somewhat interesting to someone.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 11, 2016 03:46
|
|
|
Mogomra posted:Does anyone have experience with trackball mice? I'd like to get one I could use with my thumb. Wired preferably. There aren't a lot of trackballs out there. http://www.trackballmouse.org/top-10-trackball-mouse/ has a top 10 (though many may be out of production), and there's a lot of reviews on their website. We have an M570 and it's really very good. Quaternion Cat fucked around with this message at 22:15 on Mar 29, 2016 |
|
#
¿
Mar 29, 2016 22:11
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 25, 2024 07:50 |
|
|
Rexxed posted:Looks like it's an easy fix if you're not afraid to desolder the daughterboard with the switches on it and then the switches: I had to do this exact thing, and am (I would like to believe) a competent solderer. I would not recommend attempting to desolder the daughter board as a first course of action. Without a good solder sucker, it can be hard to detach every connection at once, which can lead to having to pump quite a lot of heat into the area, as well as your trying to mechanically lever the board up. This combination can mess up the pads/tracks and leave additional damage that may need to be repaired. Taking the top board off is definitely possible but not for the faint hearted. I would suggest first to open and manipulate the microswitch in question, potentially replacing some of it's insides with that of another. I have made several posts itt about this kind of thing with this exact mouse, but am on a tablet at current, I would suggest checking my post history to read some of my experiences/advice.
|
|
#
¿
May 17, 2016 08:35
|
|