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Goo posted:Oh God that video is more cringey and less informative than this one. Does the wheel, in fact, spin for days? 
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Apr 9, 2014 05:31
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My Deathadder used to have the dreaded double-click problem, but I kept using it anyways and it eventually disappeared. But the mousewheel also has issues so it needs to be replaced regardless (I can scroll down and end up above where I started). I can't find a good mouse with thumb button placement that suits my claw grip though. On the Deathadder, I basically only have access to Mouse4 because putting my thumb forward enough to hit both Mouse4 and Mouse5 easily means my middle finger is too far forward to use the wheel (or rather the wheel button in this case, since the wheel has issues). I'm considering one of the RATs and attempting to customize it, but from what I've heard the build quality on them isn't much better than Razer's offerings.
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Apr 26, 2014 04:09
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Gwyrgyn Blood posted:I have the same problem with every mouse with two buttons on one side. Are you okay with one button on each side? If so, take a look at the Kana v2, it's a pretty darn good mouse. Not strictly opposed to it, but I'd probably have to train up my pinky finger. I'll give it a try next time I'm at the store and see how it goes.
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Apr 26, 2014 07:32
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I'd have to second the Intellimouse as a fairly robust mouse. There's something like 15-20 of them still in use at my work, and several of them even have Windows XP 'made for gaming' logos on them. That model (looks like this) doesn't look like it's still in production though.
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Jun 9, 2014 04:46
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The Lord Bude posted:In windows the OS cursor speed needs to be set at 6 in order to guarantee perfect accuracy (the ability for the cursor to land on every pixel on the screen) Not entirely true, what you really want is the mouse acceleration fix.
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Jul 17, 2014 08:10
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dissss posted:For games that came out pre Windows XP? There's no telling how many post-XP games are built off pre-XP code bases, or how much new code is being written with old (or lazy) assumptions in mind. It's guaranteed to help if you have old games you like to replay, possibly helpful if playing newer games, and only detrimental if you have expectations of how mouse acceleration works in desktop mode. There's no reason not to install it.
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Jul 17, 2014 16:42
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SlayVus posted:That would cost $20,000 after we expanded. If you're buying a couple hundred mice, literally any mouse with the functionality you're looking for will cost thousands - you'll need to prove to management how it would save money in the long run either way. You might be able to swing a volume discount at those numbers though.
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Aug 20, 2014 05:59
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I heard something about a free $50 Steam gift card if you get a G502 at BestBuy between the 27th and the 29th, might be exactly what you're looking for.
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Nov 25, 2014 00:19
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Chuu posted:Just went from a MX518 to a G502. The shape is actually very different. After using the 502 a couple days, for some reason, my thumb hurts, specifically the joint at the base of the thumb. I think there are two root causes, the "indent" where your thumb sits is much shallower which keeps your thumb much straighter, and while on a MX518 your thumb naturally sits on the "back" button on a G502 it sits on the "forward" button so hitting the "back" button requires an odd contortion. Logitech has to make compromises to accommodate the huge variation in grip styles. Your thumb might be sitting naturally on the forward button, but for me it sits naturally on the back button. I actually want a mouse where they move the forward/back buttons backwards but I've yet to find one.
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Dec 1, 2014 05:38
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Don Lapre posted:Yea right. You realize something as simple as custom ear plugs cost $100+ Earplugs need a lot more precision though, as even a tiny error could render the entire piece unusable - best case uncomfortable to use, worst case won't fit in your ear. On the other hand, a mouse is large enough that you can make sections of it modular and attach differently shaped grips. Don't need a lot of precision for custom grip shapes because your hand can adjust to error easily. I don't think it's feasible due to the volume you would need to keep the price low, but it's not that difficult to implement.
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Dec 1, 2014 06:12
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Don Lapre posted:Thats still alot different though from "You go in and they fit you for a mouse like they do for race car seats." How so? Go into a store, get your mold adjusted to your grip, they bust out the 3D scanner/printer and put a rubberized coating on the mouse after attaching the newly printed parts. They might not be using a literal mold the way they do for car seats, but the general concept is the same. A hobbyist could do it right now if they had the mouse chassis available.
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Dec 1, 2014 06:42
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Stumpus posted:My MX518 is starting to make little jumpy jittery movements without the mouse actually moving. Sometimes if I let it go, I'll watch the cursor slowly and jaggedly move across the screen (while the mouse is still). Get a can of compressed air and blast the sensor a bit. Could be a bit of dust or something that is throwing the sensor off.
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Dec 1, 2014 19:57
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MoosetheMooche posted:Some hardware questions for my dear goons: Generally speaking, you don't want to use a laser sensor unless you're having tracking issues with an optical sensor. They both have their niches, but the strengths of optical sensors fall closer to how most users will use the mouse. I think Steelseries has been in the peripherals game longer than CoolerMaster, but both are quite respectable as far as I'm aware. There's no way to tell how comfortable a mouse will be without actually having it in your hand, especially considering everyone's grip style is different. Your links are broken, by the way.
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Dec 29, 2014 05:54
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dpbjinc posted:I tried two G502s, and on both, the scrolling often moves backwards when I finish scrolling, regardless of scroll mode. The mouse is great otherwise, but the scroll wheel is garbage. It's probably unavoidable with mice with freescroll, and I wish they had the same mouse but with no freescroll. I had a little bit of that at first, but after a bit of retraining with how I stop the wheel it's no longer an issue. 
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Jan 13, 2015 18:16
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rarbatrol posted:I can't help but think that Logitech has some consistency issues with the mouse wheel on the G502. I have no issues with mine, but I see a fairly large number of reviews complaining about it. I don't know if it's consistency issues or if people just aren't used to the style of the G502's wheel. The standard scroll is wonderful for gaming with its 'heavy' indents so you get precise zooming or weapon switching, but it's absolutely terrible for trying to scroll through web pages or documents. On the other hand, the free scroll is sensitive to being accidentally touched and takes some practice to use properly. I've gotten used to toggling between the different modes as needed and controlling the free scroll, but a lot of people hate adjusting to change. I think someone was also complaining earlier about the sound the wheel makes when free scrolling, but I don't see how that's any worse than regular scrolling or mouse clicks or keyboard clatter.
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Jan 18, 2015 23:02
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HoboMan posted:This tread is too long to read. What is a decent wired mouse + keyboard I can get for less than $40? tia At that price point, it doesn't matter. They're all gonna be membrane keyboards and generic optical mice, so pick whatever is in your budget and suits your fancy. Unless you're talking about one of those all-in-one combination units, but I don't think they're available for $40.
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Feb 23, 2015 04:33
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I'm kinda surprised that despite talking about the muzzle for the cable in multiple paragraphs, they didn't actually provide a clear picture of it. A couple shots where you can see it poking out the end, but nothing close to a front profile shot.
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Feb 26, 2015 01:11
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RobotsLoveSpectres posted:Does anyone have any idea why my G400's laser suddenly stops working on my desktop while it works perfectly fine on my laptop? Could you be more specific about what "suddenly stops working" means? It could be anything from hardware defects (either on the mouse side or the desktop side) to simply a poor mousing surface.
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Mar 10, 2015 05:47
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RobotsLoveSpectres posted:There are two situations where it stops working on the desktop. The first, the laser just shuts off and won't turn on again until i plug it into a different USB slot. The second, the laser stays on but I get 2 seconds of lag where the mouse isn't responsive at all and then 2 seconds of it working fine. But it works fine on your laptop you said? I'm almost tempted to say it's a software issue on your desktop, like a driver issue or something.
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Mar 10, 2015 23:41
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Filthy Monkey posted:I guess I am a weirdo. I am left-handed. Write left-handed, hold my fork left-handed, and do the majority of things left-handed. I have been using a mouse with my right hand all my life though. Sometimes I wonder if I would be more accurate switching to my left hand for mousing, but when I do it just feels awkward. You should really be happy about that, because left-handed mice tend to be rare/expensive so you're generally limited to ambidextrous designs. Plus you can sit down at a shared PC and use it without loving around with the placement of everything.
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Mar 12, 2015 09:20
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That video made me realize that the light on my 502 isn't supposed to be a teal sort of color. Wonder if I should bother with an RMA.
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Aug 13, 2015 23:19
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Dominoes posted:Turn it off in the settings. I've just been using the default Windows drivers so I don't have the Logitech software installed, and the light doesn't bother me enough to go out of my way to install it. Mutation posted:I don't like how the pinky rests on the G502, because it doesn't rest, it kinda just hangs off to the side. Palm grip? With a fingertip grip I'm never resting my pinky anyways, so I never needed it.
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Aug 13, 2015 23:56
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illezt posted:How often do you break your mouse? I've only ever had 1 gaming mouse last for less than a year or two... incidentally, it was a Logitech. Mouse failures are random, but you can choose to buy from a company that is known for good support in the event it happens.
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Aug 15, 2015 00:17
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I should put all the weights in my 502 so I can lift while waiting to respawn.
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Aug 15, 2015 21:42
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Gwyrgyn Blood posted:It's too heavy, the tilt L/R is easier to trigger than the actual MMB click, and it's inaccurate (1 step on the wheel in locked mode does not always equal 1 input up/down to the computer). It's also loud and sticks out too much. I'm wondering if this is a grip style difference or possibly a defective unit, as I've experienced none of these issues with my fingertip grip. I have to go out of my way to trigger the tilt compared to a simple middle click and I've never had precision problems in locked mode. It's definitely heavy and noisy when locked but while I wouldn't mind those two factors being reduced or eliminated, I'm more neutral on the subject than dissatisfied. The wheel sticking out more is something I actually prefer, having come from using a MX500 way back in the day and realizing the more recessed wheel is harder to use precisely. I remember someone writing a step by step guide to swapping the wheel in the G502 with another Logitech model since they share the same chassis, so they had a lighter plastic wheel instead of the heavy metal one. That might be more effort than you're willing to go through though.
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Jan 5, 2016 23:32
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Gwyrgyn Blood posted:I wouldn't have a problem opening the mouse to swap the wheel assuming it wasn't expensive and Logitech didn't care in terms of warranty. Which I guess they wouldn't since they never seem to ask people to send them back anyway. Have at it. Looks like they used a G500s wheel, which also is not quite as light as I thought but still lighter than the 502's wheel. It's rubberized which would help with your joint problem at least. It definitely seems like your grip style exacerbates the issue, as I'm nowhere near using my joint to push the button. It sounds like you're using a palm grip where your entire finger is basically resting on the wheel while I only have the front of my finger on top, which also explains your preference for a more recessed wheel and my preference for a more exposed one.
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Jan 6, 2016 03:14
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Gharbad the Weak posted:I was pointed this direction after asking a question in the Hardware Short Questions thread. I can't say I'm versed in the broad spectrum of mice available, but I do know that the Logitech G502 has a sniper button, profile switching via a button on the mouse (may or may not be useful to you given its accessibility and your problem), and on-the-fly DPI adjustments via two buttons on the left edge of the left mouse button. They're also all functional without any additional software so you won't have any junk cluttering your screen, though you may want to use the software to customize it to your preferences first. Downsides is that it's heavier than average (not sure how that impacts your control issues) and has an appearance that is a little polarizing for some people. I think it's technically feasible to hack together a DPI shifting toggle using AutoHotKey that works by adjusting the Windows mouse sensitivity, but I don't know if anyone has done that previously and made their effort available for download.
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Jan 24, 2016 06:23
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Gnumonic posted:Does a good mouse (or type of mouse) that is cat-hair-resistant exist? There's basically no way for me to keep my cats off of my desk, and I'm getting sick of having to lint roll my mouse pad every hour in order to play any game without the mouse jerking around or stopping randomly. Is optical better than laser? Is there a difference? Does anyone still make quality ball mice? In addition to the mouse recommendations others mentioned, you might want to experiment with different types of mousepads. It sounds like your mousepad is just as much as fault as the mouse if you need a lint roller to clean it off, anyways. You're also insane if you believe that a ball mouse would somehow suffer less from cat hairs than an optical mouse.
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Jan 26, 2016 09:57
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Party Plane Jones posted:I've been enjoying my G502 but dang do the mouse feet love to accumulate every spec of dirt on a mousepad on the edges. The feet on mine don't seem to be doing too bad, it's all the gaps around the small buttons that's getting crammed with gunk.
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Mar 26, 2016 02:57
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Contact cleaner can work but opening up the mouse is a pain in the rear end. I don't want to gently caress up the Teflon feet. My Deathadder that I used for way too long years and years ago would have intermittent double clicking issues that I just sort of ignored until it went away, annoying but manageable. Eventually the wheel started having issues where scrolling down would leave me further up the page than I started and that's when I finally got a new mouse.
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Apr 4, 2018 02:41
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I'd still rather just buy a new mouse and have it running in a minute than spend a couple hours carefully disassembling and reassembling and hoping I didn't make a careless error along the way. I'm sure it gets easier with practice but mouse failure is infrequent enough that I don't mind using it as an opportunity to upgrade and shelving the old one for emergency use or setting up new machines.
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Apr 4, 2018 03:42
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Shrimp or Shrimps posted:What else do people use to open links in new tabs on browsers using only, ahem, one hand? Right click -> Open in new tab. 
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Jun 15, 2018 18:34
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Optimal mousepad size is more of a function of how you use the mouse than anything else. I can use a dollar store mousepad just fine since my normal sensitivity settings let me do a 360 degree turn with about two inches of movement, some people need mega mats because their sensitivity needs a foot of space for the same. There's also the question of whether or not you want one of the extra long mats so your keyboard can sit on it as well.
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Jul 4, 2018 06:10
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The render looks cool but I'm sure it's going to be horrifying after a couple years of dust and grime settles in.
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Jul 25, 2018 02:54
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Still haven't figured out why nobody will put the thumb buttons in the groove where your thumb actually rests instead of just above it. 
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Jul 31, 2018 18:52
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The Lord Bude posted:Because depending on how you hold your mouse, you need to apply grip there; which would cause you to press the button when you don't want to? Some people even pick up their mouse and reposition it. I end up having to rest my thumb on the 'raised' button location and haven't had any issues with accidental presses while moving it around. Lifting should be entirely unaffected because the top of the groove is taking the pressure rather than the button.
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Jul 31, 2018 19:22
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All the chat about players wanting to do customizations on tournament machines forgets that you generally don't want to make deep customizations as a pro gamer. Every customization you need to make is one you have to do every time you switch to a new PC, and one you risk forgetting to do before the match. Newer mice with onboard settings storage greatly reduces the risks, but there's still a ton of value in having good stock settings to train on so you can grab an emergency replacement off the store shelf and be ready to go in the event of hardware failure or disappearance. At minimum, if there's a setting that you can't set via import from file on a USB stick, that setting might as well not exist. Exceptions exist of course, and if you do really need specific software for legitimate reasons most tournament organizers will be happy to oblige if you contact them ahead of time. You're introducing variables in your performance though and as a professional gamer your income by extension.
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Aug 29, 2018 03:10
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Audax posted:Don't bindshame. For example, anonymous CS playing goon: I do things like mouse2 for crouch in my FPS games and it always throws me off when I step up to a demo station and everything is wrong. Good thing I'm not going to tournaments.
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Aug 29, 2018 03:27
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Ofecks posted:I've played WoW for so long that I need to rebind every other game's strafing to Q/E. This has been a problem in game like Skyrim where picking up books uses the E key and could not, from what I was able to tell, be changed by keybinds. You can rebind keys in Skyrim, it's just that Bethesda is too incompetent to have the UI reflect your custom bindings. You have to remember what you set everything to, particularly in menus like crafting.
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Aug 30, 2018 08:49
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Ofecks posted:Nope, not that particular key. Since E is bound to right strafe for me it just turns the pages in the book. If I recall correctly, there's no separate "pick up book" keybind to bind, either. It's simply E and nothing else. No, one of the first binds I always set is 'use' to F in every game. With Skyrim I can hit F to open the book and again to take it even though the UI keeps telling me to use E. Don't trust the UI labels.
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Aug 31, 2018 05:07
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At least, unless you're collecting them just because, I don't think there are many books you actually need to carry with you for quests or whatever.