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 I've always wanted a Sonett (NOT SONNET) III so loving bad, but apparently they're nearly impossible to find in the states.
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Jan 26, 2010 03:24
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Mcqueen posted:I read it that you topped off the fluid in your 2008. Could it be possible that air made its way into the fluid? I tried bleeding it, and I got nowhere. Seems unlikely - the only thing that really irks me/makes me feel that something is wrong is that when it's started/ready, the first few presses when in gear, it squeaks like hell - but pressure shows fine and fluid is there. By the 5th time, no racket but still no power. Rotors and all look fine and are thick, pads seem fine. Nearest authorized repair (under warranty) is now 5 hours away and it stops like a goddamn bus.
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Jan 26, 2010 03:48
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Augmented Dickey posted:I've always wanted a Sonett (NOT SONNET) III so loving bad, but apparently they're nearly impossible to find in the states. The ones that aren't just completely rusted through are being rebuilt. You're hosed if you plan on finding one and rebuilding it without spending a fortune for it.
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Jan 26, 2010 03:49
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localized posted:Thanks. The real problem is that the fuel gauge isn't affected by whats in the tank. Would this be in the sending unit or in the float itself?
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Jan 26, 2010 05:45
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Augmented Dickey posted:
Hahahah, that must be Bjorn Reynolds.
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Jan 26, 2010 17:24
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Augmented Dickey posted:I've always wanted a Sonett (NOT SONNET) III so loving bad, but apparently they're nearly impossible to find in the states. There is one sitting in the back garage of a SAAB dealer around here. Didn't look rusty at all the day I saw it.
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Jan 26, 2010 23:26
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Sonetts are loving beautiful, but I don't think I've ever seen one in real life. That's what I get for living in the Midwest. I would love to have one with the B235 Viggen motor shoehorned in.
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Jan 27, 2010 01:36
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Petekill posted:Sonetts are loving beautiful, but I don't think I've ever seen one in real life. That's what I get for living in the Midwest. I would love to have one with the B235 Viggen motor shoehorned in. I know someone who is attempting to do this- he's since given up and is trying to stick a manual into in a 9000 Aero he got for a song.
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Feb 6, 2010 01:08
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Captain Crunk posted:For all those considering a Saab now, I'll say I love my 9-3 and the reality is the NG900 is a rebadged Opel, yes. But we didn't get that Opel stateside so it's still unique, and very Saab. I posted this in the other thread about common issues with these cars: I just got a 1998 9-3 as a total car novice so I'm writing all this down while I look for the button that turns the wipers on my headlights on. Do any of you guys know where I can get a manual online? I've had a look around but nothing so far.
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Feb 6, 2010 03:12
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Spiritual Thirst posted:I just got a 1998 9-3 as a total car novice so I'm writing all this down while I look for the button that turns the wipers on my headlights on. Do any of you guys know where I can get a manual online? I've had a look around but nothing so far.
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Feb 6, 2010 05:44
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Mario posted:They turn on when you use the windshield squirter. Consider yourself lucky if they both run and park themselves properly though. Ya know I've heard about these going out - and have seen the expenses people have claimed to have them replaced, but I have a used (10 years old) from SFBA and they have never been replaced. Still seat, and run OK. Then again, so does my heater blower, so maybe I'm just playing with fire.
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Mar 5, 2010 02:24
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Augmented Dickey posted:
More related to the OP, I've had two 9000: a '93 CS, and a '94 Aero. I made threads about the Aero, because it was kind of a Big Deal: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=1042261 and http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=1245528 but you need archives to see them I guess.   For those without archives, the Aero was wrecked, and I rebuilt it using parts from the '93, which had exploded its transmission after I bumped the boost way up. The Aero met its demise in a similar fashion back in '07. Boost up, differential out. Great fuckin' cars, though. I really miss that Aero.
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Mar 5, 2010 03:02
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dur posted:Awesome! '94 Aero owner here wishing he had archives. I had always wondered what an Aero wraparound front bumper would look like with a CS lower lip.. I've often thought the deeper lip of the CS looks better than the relatively flatter Aero lip. It looks pretty good! Are you still in a classic Saab? There is no where near enough classic Saab love around here.
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Mar 5, 2010 20:25
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Sabmo posted:Awesome! '94 Aero owner here wishing he had archives. No more Saabs here. I mean, I'd still love to find a Sonett or a 95 or something, but I don't have the money, time or space. I've got a Miata now. 
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Mar 6, 2010 15:33
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Sorry for the thread necromancy, but I'm currently looking to replace my dinky little '84 Jetta with some manner of mid-90's Saab, preferably a 9000 CSE or something along those lines. I see them popping up on the local used car site every now and then for rather decent amounts of money, so I inquired for some sage advice from a friend who's far more knowledgable about cars than I am and he suggested that if I wanted a used 9000 that I should probably try to go for a (relatively) low mileage non-turbo version as they are less likely to have had the poo poo flogged out of them. He also pointed out that the mid-90's 9000's are built on the same platform as the Alfa Romeo 164/Fiat Croma and as such they are also prone to the dreaded Fiat rust, and that it's worth shelling out a bit of extra cash for a relatively rust-free specimen. So basically non-turbo, no rust and, if possible, low mileage to minimize the risk of any headaches later on. Sounds like good advice to me, but oh god it would be sweet to have a turbo  Are the turbos prone to trouble? Any other potentially expensive warning signs I should be aware of?
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Apr 11, 2010 23:26
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I owned a '93 9000 CSE. All the 2nd generation ones are based off the joint Alfa/Lancia platform. Mine had no rust and they supposedly used galvanized metal on the body, though it is fairly thin metal IMO. I mean, who wants a non-galvanized, allegedly executive car with rust holes? When I bought mine, I got the non-turbo with about 125K on it and it was in great shape, but YMMV. Here's the big things to watch out for. Watch out for a bad heater core (smells like maple syrup/coolant) in the cap with the heat on. Try to NOT get the turbo version because it has a lovely early version of traction control with a TCS throttle body that is failure-prone and expensive as poo poo. Also, watch for some "walk" in the shifter if it's a manual transmission. That would indicate bad motor mounts and those aren't expensive, but they are a bitch. For further reference, there's a site some dude out there made that has piles of useful info on 9000s. If someone knows what it is, post it. If I remember, I'll update this post.
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Apr 12, 2010 03:33
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Thanks a lot, I guess I'll look for a non-turbo'd version then. Do the later models, say '95-'96, still have the lovely traction control/throttle body issues though? Also, how are the manual transmission vs the automatics? Doesn't really matter to me which one I have, but I assume that if any of them have realiability issues it'll probably be the automatic.
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Apr 12, 2010 10:43
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Francis Baconator posted:For further reference, there's a site some dude out there made that has piles of useful info on 9000s. If someone knows what it is, post it. If I remember, I'll update this post. TwinSaabs.com for DYI, and Saab9000.com come to mind. SaabNet chat is free, and worth the wait (about 5pm to 10pm PST), but it will be pretty dormant, and you will likely be ignored. It's cliquish, but if you come around once or twice, it's all gravy. SAABCentral isn't bad at times. Have not owned a 9000 yet, myself. Still looking. Silver preferred. In the mean time, here's my 2k 9-5 I rebuilt for a bit of pointless fodder. It had a blown turbo, a few small electrical (relay mostly) gremlins, and a dead SID. Other than a basic rebuild with a new turbo, MAF, PCV #6, NGK plugs, and a complete fluid exchange, it really didn't have much wrong with it. The former owner sludged the poor thing but not irreparable - and it's like new on the inside, and comfier than the 2k6-2k9 models. I don't think I'm even at $5k invested in it, and it's like new on the inside. Here she is rolling 168k the last weekend.
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Apr 13, 2010 18:54
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Francis Baconator posted:I owned a '93 9000 CSE. All the 2nd generation ones are based off the joint Alfa/Lancia platform. Mine had no rust and they supposedly used galvanized metal on the body, though it is fairly thin metal IMO. I mean, who wants a non-galvanized, allegedly executive car with rust holes? When I bought mine, I got the non-turbo with about 125K on it and it was in great shape, but YMMV. I don't think the motor mounts are that big of a deal. The original hydraulic mounts were kind of failure prone, but replace them with the solid rubber mount (which are cheaper, too) and you'll be all set. Changing them isn't terribly difficult either - the top mount and front lower mount are dead simple, and if I remember right, the only trick with the rear lower mount was that you need a really long extension to get the top bolt out. When I was particularly poor, I even just filled the old lower front hydraulic mount with polyurethane caulking and ran a bolt right through it. Held up real well until I splurged for a new mount. The auto box in the 9000 isn't considered to be terrible reliable, but in my experience, neither is the manual beyond *ahem* certain power levels. The manual's more fun to drive, but the auto holds boost through shifts, so I dunno, drive both and go with whichever one you like better? All the 9000s were based off the Alfa/Lancia/Fiat/Saab Type Four platform, not the just the second gen. Alfa 164, Lancia Thema (8.32, *drool*) and Fiat Croma were the 9000's sister cars.
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Apr 14, 2010 05:08
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Quick question: I live in Canada and it looks like the 98-01' 93 was offered in a ton of different variants. The 2L in particular was offered in NA, low-pressure turbo and high-pressure turbo trims. Is there a good way of identifying which is which at a glance? Would this be in the door jam?
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Apr 14, 2010 15:51
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8ender posted:Quick question: I live in Canada and it looks like the 98-01' 93 was offered in a ton of different variants. The 2L in particular was offered in NA, low-pressure turbo and high-pressure turbo trims. Is there a good way of identifying which is which at a glance? Would this be in the door jam?
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Apr 14, 2010 17:39
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dur posted:If it has a factory boost gauge, it is a HPT. Otherwise, pop the hood to tell the difference between LPT and NA - NAs will have an intake tract that goes straight from filter to throttle body, LPT will have plumbing down through the turbo. Sweet. Good to know. I'm looking at 94-97' 900s and 98-99' 93s for a cheap beater. I'm avoiding the 2000+ 93s due to the sludging issues.
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Apr 14, 2010 17:43
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8ender posted:I'm avoiding the 2000+ 93s due to the sludging issues. Really, it's not that big of a deal if the car hasn't been completely destroyed already. Just use GOOD synthetic and check your intake religiously when you change it every 5k.. can do that with a little dentist mirror in under 1/2 an hour.
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Apr 15, 2010 18:14
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ssh posted:Just use GOOD synthetic and check your intake religiously when you change it every 5k.. can do that with a little dentist mirror in under 1/2 an hour. Interesting. Please explain this process a litte more. We're speaking about the intake in the oil pan right?
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Apr 15, 2010 20:11
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8ender posted:Interesting. Please explain this process a litte more. We're speaking about the intake in the oil pan right? Yes, we are. Depending on the model and how you can squirm, getting a tiny mirror and flashlight up under there can be done pretty swiftly. Each model is a slightly different case by case, though.
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Apr 16, 2010 18:48
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ssh posted:Yes, we are. Depending on the model and how you can squirm, getting a tiny mirror and flashlight up under there can be done pretty swiftly. Each model is a slightly different case by case, though. How do you get a flashlight into the oilpan? Pop all the bolts of of one side? the 02 9-5 sport combi I have has some sludge, but also has oil pressure troubles. Id like to limp this motor for as long as possible, so I have to keep the pickup clean. When I got it, there was a bunch of crap plugging the pickup, along with chips of metal. Its coming up on its first oilchange now, (2k miles after the pan removal) and Id like to see if more bits of metal are sticking to the pickup or that was just from the turbo making GBS threads itself.
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Apr 16, 2010 18:57
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blindjoe posted:How do you get a flashlight into the oilpan? Pop all the bolts of of one side? Obviously not a full size flashlight. Just a high output led penlight attached to a tiny mirror with little bitty wires. You know, something the size of about a pencil with one of those dental-sized mirrors. I just glued the base of the LED at an angle on a pair of broken glasses hinge and used that to manipulate the light in relation to the mirror. No, it didn't work all that great, but it was a hell of a lot more fun than dropping the pan. If you've got pressure issues, I'd strongly suggest you take a look at that pickup now. Also, make sure your light actually works for the pressure gauge. If it turns on when you start the car, you may not be to bad, but I'd religiously change it with redline every 5k miles or so and not wallyworld Mobil1.
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Apr 16, 2010 19:09
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ssh posted:Obviously not a full size flashlight. Sorry, i was just wondering where you go in through. I guess the drain plug? Maybe its a good reason to get one of those "cameras on a stick" that they sell at home depot/harbor fright. The oil light comes on at idle after 20 minutes on the highway to get the motor all hot. I got tired of being scared of the dinging so I unplugged the sensor (after putting a brand new one in of course, hoping it was just a faulty sensor). It has one of those crap-rear end oil filter sandwich gauge that never goes below maybe 0.8 bar, but thats down at the bottom of the motor and the sensor is up at the top. Im not sure whats going to be cheaper, pulling the motor now and doing the bearings before it goes completely, or just finding a long block later. I also tryed to trade it in on something else, but they were going to give me $2500 and I had just paid $6.5k to buy it and bring it up into canada from the states. I figure I might be able to get a new motor for the 4k that I would be losing and end up with a car I like and somethign that will last.
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Apr 16, 2010 19:36
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blindjoe posted:Sorry, i was just wondering where you go in through. I guess the drain plug? Maybe its a good reason to get one of those "cameras on a stick" that they sell at home depot/harbor fright. Easiest place is the drain plug, yes. That's where I went. Since the dummy light goes off, you've got problems. I'd try to scope it and take a look; lord knows how much damage is already done. You may as well just go for a colonoscopy; when they're done with the car they can shove it up your rear end. Welcome to our world.
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Apr 17, 2010 00:19
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ssh posted:Easiest place is the drain plug, yes. That's where I went. Since the dummy light goes off, you've got problems. I'd try to scope it and take a look; lord knows how much damage is already done. The saab must have heard me talking about it so it spun its bearings and died. I am now looking for a rebuilt motor, and does anyone have a guide for easy engine removal? The WIS suggests coming out through the bottom, but I don't have enough lift to get the motor out. Im going to attempt the old take things apart until I can pull the motor out the top.
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Apr 18, 2010 01:46
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I was going to say, sounds like your engine is in it's final stages of death, what with NO oil pressure (light) and metal in the oil. There's no way to get out of a situation involving these two symptoms without lots of new engine/rebuilding engine. Hoping that metal was just from the turbo was, well, optimistic. At best. Good luck, I guess.
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Apr 18, 2010 02:31
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The Haynes manual says to drop the engine out through the bottom. You need to drop the transmission/engine as a complete unit.
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Apr 18, 2010 05:02
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Seeing as this is a Saab thread, I was hoping any fellow Saab owners may have a solution to the problem I am currently experiencing. My hazard lights come on when I turn on the right turn signal. Any ideas on how to stop this?
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Apr 18, 2010 05:29
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Method Loser posted:I was going to say, sounds like your engine is in it's final stages of death, what with NO oil pressure (light) and metal in the oil. There's no way to get out of a situation involving these two symptoms without lots of new engine/rebuilding engine. Hoping that metal was just from the turbo was, well, optimistic. At best. Good luck, I guess. Ya I figured this out when I found the metal in the oil, but that was after I had bought the car and brought it home across the border. I am stuck with this saab-shaped elephant now. I would love to take the engine out of the bottom but I can't get the car up high enough. Tomorrow will tell I guess, Ill see how much I can take apart.
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Apr 18, 2010 06:39
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http://hooniverse.com/blog/2010/04/21/2-stroke-swedish-meatball-the-saab-92h-camper/ I suspect the real reason for the motion blur in this picture is because the camera car can't go slow enough to keep up with the 92H. 28 horsepower two stroke motorhome, ahoy!  Saab is crazy. Really crazy.
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Apr 21, 2010 19:50
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I hope I'm not assing up this thread asking this question: I want a Saab GT750 or at least a 93F. Many years ago when my uncle was so close to my age it freaks me out to think about it, he and his buddies had a ratty old house on a large piece of land that was covered in old 93s, 96s, and Sonetts. I spent a lot of time messing with the headlights in a beat-rear end, yellow Sonett III. All of these memories are coming back to me now and I'm getting all nostalgic, and this is mixing with my desire for a toy car to play with on the weekend. Here's my problem though: I can't find any information - at least not easily. The websites I've found that deal with Saab generally don't have a lot of information about the earlier cars, nor do the discussion boards seem very active. I also can't really locate any books in English that might entertain and educate me. On top of all this is eBay. I don't really know how to keep an eye out for cars beyond checking eBay, and all of those jerks want ten times what their car is actually worth, serially re-listing them because nobody is stupid enough to bid up to the reserve. What can I read to really know the interesting and important stuff, and where should I pay attention in case something resembling what I'm after is listed for sale? I've watched like every crummy YouTube video of 2-stroke Saabs about five times each now. I'm jonesing hard. Frosty- fucked around with this message at 22:48 on Apr 21, 2010 |
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Apr 21, 2010 22:36
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blindjoe posted:Ya I figured this out when I found the metal in the oil, but that was after I had bought the car and brought it home across the border. I am stuck with this saab-shaped elephant now. Ok, the motor came out the top pretty easily. Took about 5 hours, and now its sitting on a tire in my garage. The hard part is finding something to replace it with. The local guys want $2500 for an engine that they won't warrenty if I install it myself, guys in the states want $2k for an engine I would have to ship somewhere, and then who knows if the warrenty is good if I install it myself. Turns out people with normal cars have plenty of options, the rebuilders sell complete engines with 2 year warrenties, even if you install them yourself. If you own a saab however, you are poo poo out of luck. The local guy will rebuild it for me, he said $1300 labor plus parts, and his parts book doesn't list anything. I looked on line, and it looks like oversized pistons are $300 each, and everything else is just as rediculous. I have no idea what to do at this point but hide in a closet and cry 
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Apr 21, 2010 23:22
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blindjoe posted:Ok, the motor came out the top pretty easily. Took about 5 hours, and now its sitting on a tire in my garage. The hard part is finding something to replace it with. The local guys want $2500 for an engine that they won't warrenty if I install it myself, guys in the states want $2k for an engine I would have to ship somewhere, and then who knows if the warrenty is good if I install it myself. Jssaab on Saabcentral just wrote a detailed thread about the parts needed for the swap: http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=182405
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Apr 21, 2010 23:59
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stipud posted:Do you have the 4 cyl? If so, you can use a short block off a '94+ Saab 9000, while using the 9-5 head and timing cover. Generally you can get a 9000 block for only a few hundred dollars, and they are far more robust than the 9-5 equivalent (forged pistons, etc). A lot of people swap to them after blowing their 9-5 bottom ends with big turbos. O wow, I have the B235 2.3. Guess I am on the prowl for a 9000 block now. Thanks!
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Apr 22, 2010 00:41
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So yeah, today I downed enough ritalin to work myself up into buying this: 2000 Saab 9-3. Feels like quite an upgrade over my worn old Jetta. Power steering! ABS! CD stereo! Fuel injection! Power windows! Airbags! Air conditioning! Turbo! Traction control! It's like driving around in some sort of techno-futurist utopia. There some minor things wrong with it though. The trip computer and climate control displays are dead and dying respectively (are those even fixable?), one of the panels in the passenger's side door is loose and I'm pretty sure the air conditioning needs a refill. Everything else appears to be working as far as I can tell, so all in all it seems to be in pretty good shape. I would rather have had those sweet Saab three-spoke wheels on it but considering that I got a fairly good deal on the thing I can't really complain. I just hope some horrific mechanical defect doesn't reveal itself within the next few days Next step: order some prancing moose stickers. Nuclear Tourist fucked around with this message at 23:11 on May 29, 2010 |
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May 29, 2010 23:07
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