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localized
Mar 30, 2008
Its about time there was a SAAB thread. I will literally cry if they go under. I saw it mentioned in passing in another thread that someone was amazed when they saw two SAABs at a stoplight. In Maine, it seems that every other car I see is a SAAB.

On another note, has anyone used any JZW Tuning ECUs? They are the cheapest ones that I have seen, but I was wondering if anyone has ever installed one (specifically for the NG900).

Link: http://www.jzwtuning.com/products.html

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localized
Mar 30, 2008

ab0z posted:

Thanks, I remember hearing the term but couldn't recall the definition. I'll certainly use OEM plugs. (anyone have the model number handy for this car?)

I just put four new plugs in mine a couple weeks ago. I used Bosch FR 7 DC+X I think. I have the Haynes Manual right here, so if you have other easy questions I might be able to answer them.

localized
Mar 30, 2008

Captain Crunk posted:



As far as reliability goes for the guys who asked they're pretty good except within 5K miles at 120K the following fails (always):
-Fuel Pump (replace it yourself, cut a hole in the floor. Not kidding, cost me 20bux for a junkyard pump and took 2 hours)
-DIC - You're screwed, they're $200 used. Try and find a nice one with recent date code.
-CPS - hard to replace because of the exhaust, but doable
-Check for engine sludge - drop the oil pan, and exhaust (do the CPS now) and clean out the pickup screen
-Serp belt and pulleys
-SID pixels die, a repair costs $50 so isn't terrible.

Cars with T5 engine management ('96-'99) don't have as many sludge issues as those from '00 on up.

I have heard a lot about cutting a hole in the floor to access the fuel pump, but where exactly would I cut the hole? My fuel gauge is stuck at 1/4 of a tank, and the PO said that it did that after they replaced the fuel pump a few thousand miles ago.

I am also about to turn 120k :downsgun:...

localized
Mar 30, 2008

Francis Baconator posted:

I'm not sure about the 9-3, but all the SAABs I've owned have a sealed hole in the floor of the hatch area that goes right into the tank. However, I don't know anything about the NG SAABs.

Well this would be on a 1996 NG900SE, so I can take a look when its light enough out, but other than that I dont want to cut a bunch of random holes in my floor looking for the fuel pump...

localized
Mar 30, 2008

Captain Crunk posted:

Here is a howto for the fuel pump replacement:
http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=119759&highlight=fuel+pump+hole

and another example:
http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61165&highlight=fuel+pump+hole

It's pretty strait forward and I know it saved me a lot of time on the replacement. If you do break the yellow tabs get a new assembly as the hoses won't hold themselves and WILL splash fuel all over the underside of your seat.

Thanks. The real problem is that the fuel gauge isn't affected by whats in the tank. Would this be in the sending unit or in the float itself?

localized
Mar 30, 2008

Augmented Dickey posted:

I've always wanted a Sonett (NOT SONNET) III so loving bad, but apparently they're nearly impossible to find in the states.

There is one sitting in the back garage of a SAAB dealer around here. Didn't look rusty at all the day I saw it.

localized
Mar 30, 2008
The Haynes manual says to drop the engine out through the bottom. You need to drop the transmission/engine as a complete unit.

localized
Mar 30, 2008
My SAAB got backed into by some idiot in a Civic last monday...scraped all the way down the side and ripped off my rear bumper while loving up my freshly painted wheel...

localized
Mar 30, 2008

kimbo305 posted:

Anyone worked on the antenna in a 98-03 9-3?
My gf's antenna mast has snapped in half, and the only instructions online I've found don't really cover the 9-3, but only the NG900. Everything essential seems the same, but the details of how to undo the trunk carpet around the antenna motor is off. I see along the side of the hatch 2 torx head screws, but that's about it.

I did it in my '96, and its quite easy. You need to unbolt the plastic cover around the trunk latch including the cargo tie-down. If your car has the 6 disc changer you need to unbolt the bracket too. You also need to do what Captain Crunk said and take the cover off the rear speaker and the trim around it. I'm sure you could do it without removing the speaker crap but it would be a pain to try and stick the carpet back in there.

localized
Mar 30, 2008
About halfway down the page:

http://www.kolumbus.fi/richard.bevan/saab/saab93/fitting.html

If thats what the rear speaker setup looks like, than the process that I described is what you want to do, You need to remove the cover that he has taken off as well as the black plastic housing that you can see in the picture. If not than I don't know.

Edit: Looking at that site more I guess the CD changer bit is different on the 9-3, so I don't know if you have to remove anything or not.

localized
Mar 30, 2008
Yeah, when I pulled the plastic bit off it felt like it was going to snap and it sounded like it did but it turned out to be fine. It took about 25 minutes to take it all apart and install a new antenna motor and aerial. Don't forget to take off the nut on the outside of the antenna mask and to make sure that the drain tube gets back in its hole.

localized
Mar 30, 2008

Sabmo posted:

That photo doesn't do them justice either; 9000 Aero seats are truly a work of art.



Do you or anyone else know if the 9000 seats will bolt into an NG900? My front seats are torn up and I have another pair that are in great condition from a parts car, but my rear end wants to be in those seats.

localized
Mar 30, 2008
I think that Mini based hatchback would be better if it didn't look so much like a Mini with a different grill...

localized
Mar 30, 2008

KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

It'll be interesting to see what they do with sedan/wagon/hatch. Don't know how popular the SportCombi was overall, I notice them a fair bit up here in NE but I like them and so I notice them way more than the sedan.

Here in Maine I see way more SAABs than anywhere else I have been. The only 9-3SS that I see are old models, but the 9-3 SportCombi seems to be more plentiful and better looking. Especially in Aero trim :swoon:.

localized
Mar 30, 2008
Awhile back someone posted pictures of their new 9-3. It was blue and had auxiliary fog lights on the grill. I can't find this picture in the thread anymore though. Did anyone happen to save it?

localized
Mar 30, 2008
I have a mystery coolant leak on my 900SE. The water pump was leaking when I bought the car, but I replaced that and it hasn't leaked from there since. The level on the tank slowly drops until the sensor tells me its low and I fill it back up. It doesn't seem like a leaky head gasket, because it doesn't seem to be burning any coolant. It will leave a puddle (more like a stain actually) of coolant under the motor sometimes, but last time I had it jacked up it was completely dry underneath. This isn't really a SAAB specific question, just looking for ideas I guess.

Good news is my ECU tune should be showing up any day now...

localized
Mar 30, 2008
Well it seems this weekend will be devoted to working on the car. I ordered a new front O2 sensor, getting some new NGK plugs, replacing the boost pressure control valve to try and get my new tune to work properly, as well as searching for a coolant leak and bolting the stock muffler back on for a state inspection. I am going to need a new diverter valve at some point too, as the stock bosch one isn't holding full boost with the new tune...

localized
Mar 30, 2008

Oh man that reminds me I need to change that thing. I bet the one in my 900 hasn't been changed since it was new, and I can't imagine what sort of filth it will have filtered out. My sunroof decided that it wont close when opened. It opens just fine, but when I hit the switch to close it, the motor clicks and struggles. I can close it with the little screwdriver slot, but electricity won't do it. Since it opens the motor isn't burnt out and there are no electrical issues, and if a gear were stripped it probably wouldn't open as smoothly as it does. Has anyone else had this problem? I just hope it doesn't require dropping the headliner...

localized
Mar 30, 2008
Is it throwing any codes for oxygen sensors? That would be my guess.

localized
Mar 30, 2008
Would anyone happen to have a diverter valve from a 9-5 Aero or a Viggen kicking around? The crappy little Bosch valve on my 900 is leaking at 1 bar, and I would like to use the new tune to its fullest extent. I hear that the Aero and Viggen valves have stronger internals and are able to hold more boost than the standard ones.

Also that hellaflush 900 is an abortion. The only thing even remotely related to that line that I have half considered would be some wheel spacers for the rear, but to be honest I don't like the idea of bolting a plate onto the hub and then bolting your wheels onto the plate...

Edit: It appears that the car is actually a 3D rendering and not an actual molested vehicle. Good.

localized fucked around with this message at 02:12 on Mar 31, 2011

localized
Mar 30, 2008

Epic Fail Guy posted:

My friend is looking to pick up a '98 Saab 900s Turbo as a winter car. It is a manual gearbox, has 170k miles, and has no rust. Anything I should tell him to look for, specifically?

This is a good write up on what to look for in an NG900

http://www.saabwiki.info/index.php?title=NG_900/9-3_Buyer%27s_Guide

localized
Mar 30, 2008
Right now I'm in the middle of installing new struts on all four corners. The front two were completely blown, and both front coil springs were snapped. I will try and get pictures when I go up to the car again, as right now its at my grandfathers shop. I ordered one spring and it arrived quickly from eEuro, but they only had one in stock apparently. So now its more than a week later and I still don't have my car back on the road. All in all I thought the front struts were a lot easier to replace than I thought they were, despite having to unbolt the driveshafts, the sway bar, and both ball joints.

localized
Mar 30, 2008
Yea I have an NG900. My dad mentioned something about the ride height in the front but I never really thought anything of it. One said I pulled all apart and saw the snapped off coil, and the other was still intact so I just stuck my hand in there and pulled out a giant piece of the spring. Whats weird is that both sides had failed in the exact same way, to the extent that the snapped off piece from one coil lined right up with the other one. the seals on the piston of your struts could be blown. The ones I took out of the car couldn't even support themselves, so the car was riding on the springs.

I think the blown struts are ultimately what led to the springs breaking, unless the PO was jumping railroad crossing or something. I live in Maine and the roads are utter poo poo, so that knocked a lot of the life out of the old struts. I had a weird clunk coming from the passenger side, so that should be fixed tomorrow morning when I get the other spring in there.

Does anyone know if a Viggen muffler will bolt right up to an NG900? I have a potential source on one, and it would probably be easier than making my own straight pipe.

localized
Mar 30, 2008

Mario posted:

Well, 03s (non convertible) start the next generation of 9-3. I think for Viggen <-> NG900 the center mufflers are a direct interchange, and the only difference on the rear is that the Viggen has a different tip.

localized, any tips for swapping the strut inserts, springs, and strut bearings? I've worked with the control arms, subframe, etc. enough already, but nothing with the strut assembly itself. Any must-have special tools besides spring compressors?

The stock Viggen muffler is pass through, while the stock NG900 one is baffled. At least that's what I've been told. I thought the Viggen was 99-02.

You need to separate the balljoints, so get a good balljoint separator. For the lower one I used an airhammer with a balljoint separator instead of one that you need to pound in yourself. The retaining nut on the tube where the insert goes was ridiculously tight, and it took a five foot monkey wrench to get apart. The thrust bearings at the top of the struts are no problem as they just pop right out. You need to take the driveshaft out of the hub too, so be prepared for that. It was seriously a lot easier than I thought it would be, as its not difficult you just need to take everything apart to get the struts out. I would rather have to unbolt everything and seperate the balljoints than try and stick the insert into the hub like we had to do on my friend's MKIV GTI.

Update:
The car feels completely different after the old broken poo poo was removed. Mother of god.

Pictures:


localized fucked around with this message at 21:40 on Apr 30, 2011

localized
Mar 30, 2008

Four Banger posted:

So uh... my driver rear caliper is sticking and I need to get a replacement ASAP as I'm going to be traveling about 1000kms a week for the next few weeks while working on a movie set. Why can't I find one online? I've checked Genuinesaab, Autopartsway, Auto parts Canada, and Pelican Parts, is there anywhere else that will ship to canada that I don't know about? Do they not exist?

Rockauto has dozens of calipers.

CENTRIC Part # 14138510

localized
Mar 30, 2008

blindjoe posted:



Any suggestions on the easiest/cheapest way to get reprogrammed?

I got a tune for my 900 from JZW tuning out of Colorado. It took a little longer than expected because my spare ecu couldn't be reprogrammed due to age, and I had to source a couple of different ones to try, but I eventually got the tune done for about $300. He was extremely helpful before, during, and after I had the tune done and helped me through some diagnostic issues aswell. His prices are reasonable, I think the tune for T7 ecu's run about $300. You probably wont run into the problem with dead computers like I did. If and when I have another tune done I would probably go to a more local guy in NH who helped me with the dead ECUs so I can have the car there to get more fine tuning for what I want. I would also consider doing it myself, as there are a lot of resources for T5 tuning on your own. There are other companies that will do tunes also, but they are generally twice as much as JZW.

TL;DR: http://www.jzwtuning.com/products.shtml

Edit: John (JZW) also sends you some nice stickers with a tuned ECU, if that's your thing.

localized fucked around with this message at 03:58 on Jun 20, 2011

localized
Mar 30, 2008

Viggen posted:

You're the right year for that, too. I looked at the rotors on my 2K and said 'oh gently caress this' and paid someone to do them for me. I was then called a complete jerk for giving them such a poo poo job. Bitches get stuck on there good. Won't even share the joy of taking off the decade-old struts.

You had trouble with your struts? Replacing all four on my car was surprisingly easy. What part did you have trouble with?

localized
Mar 30, 2008
Has anyone replaced the hatch in an NG900/OG9-3? Mine is rusting out and I am going to pick up a new one this week. I heard from the parts guy at a local SAAB shop that they are apparently a bitch to replace and I should take it to them. I asked for details, but he didn't know so I don't know if it was an attempt at trying to get a customer or if he was actually trying to give me a ProTip™.

localized
Mar 30, 2008
I picked up my new hatch today with a new decor panel and a a spoiler that's not completely destroyed. Its really easy to remove the hatch, especially when there's no trim or lights in the actual component itself, as it reduces the weight significantly. The guy I bought my hatch from also had a set of Super Aero wheels from a 900 Talledega, and he said he would give me first dibs when he sells them :neckbeard:.

localized
Mar 30, 2008
Jesus Christ 14,000!? Even with 34k on the clock that's insane. Some guy on Saab Central just bought a 9-3 just like that with 24k for ~7000.

localized
Mar 30, 2008

Clayton Bigsby posted:

Aero is home.

Oh man, this thing accelerates like a motherfucker in 3rd gear. Wet roads and traction control was still working hard at 100km/h on the onramp.



I would love one of these so bad. When it comes time to upgrade I am going to search hard for a Aero wagon with a fivespeed, preferably in red...

localized
Mar 30, 2008

Viggen posted:

Like this 95?*


* Not entirely sure if that's a manual. No VIN, not gonna ask. I'll take sedans and hatches, don't need to get into wagons.

That's an Arc, and as far away as you could possibly get from me in the lower 48 states, unfortunately. Whats more is that I am starting school next year, and I don't want to spend all of my money on a car. Unless someone or something destroys my car completely, I will probably just run it until it is impossible for the car to take an inspection sticker.

http://worcester.craigslist.org/ctd/2497215241.html
180k is a little too much I fear...

localized fucked around with this message at 23:08 on Jul 19, 2011

localized
Mar 30, 2008
Not just any WADON, an AREO WADON. There is also http://nwct.craigslist.org/cto/2450259126.html <--that for about the same price with less mileage. I only paid $400 for my car so all of these seem really expensive...

also: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Saab...5fCarsQ5fTrucks

localized fucked around with this message at 23:17 on Jul 19, 2011

localized
Mar 30, 2008

Viggen posted:

Temp. But then only acts up when it drops back to an idle state. If you give it a little gas, it goes back to normal. This, combined with the clutch slave making GBS threads out makes it a bit less fun to drive than say, oh.. a wheelbarrow.

My friend's C900 was acting like this during the spring. We just messed with the throttle cable and the screw that holds the throttle plate open until it stopped dying. Probably a completely different problem than the one you are having though, as it seemed to happen regardless of temperature or anything else that we could fathom that morning.

localized
Mar 30, 2008

Viggen posted:



I've learned more about the ELM327 chipset in the last 4 days than I think I've learned anything - in years. Reprogrammed the response codes on mine, and now I can use ODBWiz/TouchScan, PCMSCAN/ScanXL if I need to. :dance:

Care to share how you did it? I have an ELM327 clone and all it will run is the scantool program (from the software that came on the disc at least).

localized
Mar 30, 2008
I would go for the '02. Have you looked at the '99? It says its an SE but it doesn't have the SE bodykit and it doesn't look like it has the badge. If the 'vert has the B205R then I would get that one.

My 900SE rattles like an angry bastard on everything but fresh pavement. It has new struts and springs on all four corners and even on high profile tires it rides like a goddamn ox cart. It doesn't help that something with my steering wheel is dicked that makes it squeak and knock like crazy...

If I didn't have to leave for school on Friday I would be all over this:

http://maine.craigslist.org/cto/2548640822.html

I could have that thing on the road in a day..

localized fucked around with this message at 23:34 on Aug 16, 2011

localized
Mar 30, 2008

Viggen posted:

I VIN checked it, and it did come up as a 205R. However, I already have one of those. v:v:v

I noticed the stockishness and asked, but he hasn't admitted to any accidents - but I didn't really give it much more than a cursory once over when I was asked to join someone to look at a 9-3 (about 100% it's the same guy), since I decided it wasn't worth it when he was asking $4k for it (that one did have a correct turbo). It did have the badge on one side (if it's the one I saw), and I saw where the sticky tape was removed with a solvent that made the clear coat a little ugly where it was missing.

I did note he had a semi-recent DI in it, so it may be a case of the incredibly rare 'works on his own car' SAAB owner out here, but not too sure.

The '02 I may take a drive to see. I've asked for pictures of the engine bay - if it doesn't have PCV#6 on it, I doubt they're going to let me scope the oil, so that may just be a 'pass'.

I wouldnt even look at anything without the PCV#6 update. Is the '99 T5? If it is that would be a plus, as its less choked by emissions and the T5 motors didn't have the sludging problems that the later ones have. They also have stronger internals, if that's your thing.

localized
Mar 30, 2008

Viggen posted:


Wish I had a way to work on transmissions.

Do the 9-3ss use the same trans as the other ecotec cars?

localized
Mar 30, 2008
I think the main problem with replacing the alternator comes in removing the tensioner, although I have never had to do it myself, so take my advice with a grain if salt. I have heard of people having good results with grinding the alternator brackets to make installation easier.

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localized
Mar 30, 2008

ACEofsnett posted:

Maybe someone can help me out with this issue - My '95 NG900 SE Turbo convertible had a bad (Garrett T25) turbo, (massive shaft play, clouds of expensive synthetic smoke following me around) so I replaced it with a good turbo I bought off craigslist. The new turbo came with a forge wastegate actuator on it. I swapped the turbos, the new turbo doesn't smoke, boosts fine, but there is an issue.

When I hit full boost according to the apc gauge on the dash, the car sometimes jerks around horribly, like it's missing. Now - I know the diverter valve is bad, since it makes a honking noise when I lift the throttle suddenly under boost, but could that be causing the "miss?"

Are you running a tune? If you are running the stock software the aftermarket wastegate actuator could have the rod cranked way up to increase the base boost past the stock fuel cut. I can tell you now its not your MAF sensor, because the NG900/OG9-3 didn't come with one until SAAB switched to Trionic 7.

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