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ShaiHulud
Dec 31, 2007


HoseKing posted:

Do those even work or are they on the accu wedge level of firearm accessories?

Recoil buffers are unnecessary. Many people install them when they notice peening on the rear of the bolt carrier and/or the bolt carrier hangs up in the cutouts at the rear of the receiver, but these problems are better solved with the installation of a new recoil spring.

Speaking of recoil springs and flying dust covers, does anyone have an online source for recoil spring guides with the spring-loaded retention pin? I'm pretty sure they were standard Combloc kit for use with GP-25 and GP-30 grenade launchers.

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ShaiHulud
Dec 31, 2007


I'm looking for this:


Of course K-Var has nothing in stock. The last M70 parts kit I bought from Apex had a buttonless recoil spring guide, but thanks for trying to help. I imagine a Saiga style button would work at the expense of not looking correct.

ShaiHulud
Dec 31, 2007


Potential BFF posted:

Has anyone had much experience with the K-VAR scope mounts?
Not specifically, but I can't imagine it's $70 better than the BP-02 Low Profile Centered Mount unless you require picatinny instead of weaver.

ShaiHulud
Dec 31, 2007


B4Ctom1 posted:

Where is the best buy in a set of 1.25" longer so called "NATO length" plum US made AK furniture for my stamped receiver?

DPHArms has full sets for $110. If you just need the longer buttstock and already have plum handguards, Dinzag Arms has NATO buttstocks for $60 with free shipping until the end of the 2009 - coupon code 'BRAINS'.

ShaiHulud
Dec 31, 2007


Kommienzuspadt posted:

how do you correct a canted FSB? i think mine is just a smidge canted but it would be nice to fix,
You'll need a good sturdy vice, aluminum vice jaws to avoid scarring the finish, a pair of appropriately sized steel punches (cut one down to about 1/2" in length), some scrap leather, a monkey wrench, 1/8" drill bit, drill, hacksaw, some 1/8" drill rod, and a hammer. Drift the FSB pins out from left to right using the short punch first (you might have to beat on it quite a bit, the shorter shank resists bending until you get it started), soak FSB in Kroil and/or use a propane torch to loosen it, line the jaws of the monkey wrench with leather (an old belt or broken sling works well) and turn the FSB. Once you get it aligned, carefully drill out the holes using the 1/8" drill bit and install two new drill rod retaining pins hacksawed to the correct length.

If the adjustment is minor, some recommend simply heating the FSB with a torch, placing a piece of brass or aluminum against the FSB to protect it, and giving it a solid whack with a hammer. This apparently deforms the pins without the need to remove them first. I haven't attempted this method, but the first procedure I described isn't too difficult.

ShaiHulud
Dec 31, 2007


Awesome work so far Mishaco. I dunno if homebuild stuff belongs in the OP, but for Americans interested in building their own stamped receiver AK (probably one of the most accessible platforms for home gun building) you really only need two links:

AK Builder sells rivet sets, 922 compliance parts, and tooling to rivet together parts or even fold your own receiver from sheet metal.

NodakSpud offers a great selection of 100% stamped AK receivers

Q: I'm thinking about building a stamped AK and I need a receiver. What do the percentages mean?
A: A 100% receiver is prebuilt and ready have the trunnions riveted in. These are serialed, and must be transferred through an FFL just like a completed firearm.
An 80% receiver is a length of square steel tubing. While this can ship directly to your door (no FFL), you will need to drill all axis pin and trunnion rivet holes, as well as cut out the magazine well and install the center support and internal rails.
A 0% receiver (or 'flat') is simply a piece of sheet metal that must be bent into a receiver shape. Most flats have the holes predrilled and the magazine well already cut out, but you'll still need to install the internal rails and center support. With good quality 100% receivers available for a reasonable price, there's really no need to invest in the tooling to build up an 80% or less receiver.

Q: What are compliance parts and why should I care?
A: US Federal law prohibits some weapons from importation, and further prohibits the construction of a weapon that would be banned from importation in certain configurations. You can build your own stamped AK at home so long as you use no more than 10 imported parts. Here is a list of AK parts. Remember that no more than 10 may be imported:
  • Receiver
  • Barrel
  • Front and Rear Trunnions
  • Muzzle Attachment
  • Bolt
  • Bolt Carrier
  • Gas Piston
  • Trigger
  • Hammer
  • Disconnector
  • Buttstock
  • Pistol Grip
  • Handguards
  • Magazine body
  • Magazine follower
  • Magazine floorplate

To the best of my knowledge, there are no US-made bolts, bolt carriers, or front trunnions (front and rear trunnions count as a single item), so you're stuck with at least 3 import parts.

ShaiHulud
Dec 31, 2007


Death of Chivalry posted:

stuff

I, too, am not wild about your spacer idea. Please post a picture of your AK (If only so I can admire its supposed ugliness) with the dustcover removed, but with the bolt carrier and recoil assembly installed. If the recoil spring fits correctly into the trunnion dovetail without the dust cover installed, it sounds like the distal end of your recoil spring was binding up on the square cutout in the dust cover. This can be remedied with a few file strokes. When in doubt, don't touch the trunnions, as they are the most expensive and most difficult to replace part of the equation.

ShaiHulud
Dec 31, 2007



What What (in the buttstock)


Mishaco and I recently discussed this, so I'd like to add my writeup on one of the least appreciated parts of the AK: the cleaning kit. A marvel of functionality, its presence next to your cheek every time you pull the trigger should serve as a reminder that AKs do in fact need to be cleaned.


Look at all the great stuff it contains!


The parts of most AK cleaning kits are as follows:
A: Cap
B: Tube
C: Multitool
D: Jag
E: Bore brush
F: Pin punch

Each component is plenty useful on its own, but when they combine like a ghetto Russian Voltron they can do even more useful stuff.
If you unscrew the cap of your cleaning kit and it contains a smaller cleaning kit nested inside, return your AK to the manufacturer immediately.

Screwdriver
Placing the multitool into the tube as shown allows you to tighten buttstock and pistol grip screws, depress the spring-loaded muzzle device detent easily, and lift up the lower handguard locking lever.

Phillips head screws were outlawed by Stalin.



Sight Adjustment
The small hole in the end of the multitool is the perfect size to sit atop your front sight pin. Reversing the multitool's orientation in the tube allows you to adjust elevation.

Stop ruining your front sight pin with pliers.



The Tube
The tube itself contains a long narrow slot at one end, designed to fit over the tab of the gas tube locking lever.

The long slot



Stop scratching your finish by using pliers or a hammer.



Pin Punch
This punch is perfectly sized to allow you to disassemble your bolt. In a pinch, the bolt carrier itself makes for a decent field-expedient hammer.

The Cap
In addition to its obvious function keeping the various components in place, it also fits over the end of your rifle's barrel, keeping the cleaning rod aligned and preventing damage to the crown.

Jag, brush, and general cleaning procedure
A boresnake is a much easier way to clean your barrel, but if you're bored or playacting the Fulda Gap invasion in your backyard, you have all the necessary tools at hand. We won't discuss the relative merits of using urine, diesel, or vodka rations as barrel cleaning agents, but a scrap of cloth or even some string wrapped around the jag does an adequate job.
First, insert the cleaning rod into the large hole in the tube, then angle the rod slightly so it exits the tube through the smaller hole directly opposite. Drop the multitool into the tube so the large hole is covered and the cleaning rod is effectively captured within the tube. You now have a T-shaped cleaning apparatus that is easier to grasp while wet and grimy.
If you have trouble tightening or removing the jag from the cleaning rod, use the multitool as a wrench by inserting the flattened area on the jag into the semicircular cutout in the multitool.


Here is everything thrown together.

ShaiHulud
Dec 31, 2007


DAVE!!!(c)(tm) posted:

Interesting thing, the Saiga hunting carbines come with a cleaning kit, but they don't have a compartment in the butt stock to put it in.

All the more reason to ditch the sporter stock.

Mishaco posted:

If you dont mind, i might graft your cleaning kit post into the OP next time ?

Feel free to move this stuff anywhere you like. I posted in the thread rather than just PMing you a wall of text and bbcode because it seemed to make more sense that way.

ShaiHulud
Dec 31, 2007


Learning how to disassemble an AK at school is both awesome and somewhat sad at the same time. If they taught marksmanship at all, it is conceivable that they started the kids with .22s, and Izhevsk/Tula/Molot have a whole bunch of trainer .22s that I'm not familiar with. When I read the line about a magazine in the buttstock I immediately thought about one of these biathlon-style rifles I'm currently lusting after.

ShaiHulud
Dec 31, 2007


AntiTank posted:

Or this one:


I see a suppressor can, a bipod, a scope, and the unmistakable folding stock latch button. What model and where can I buy one?


What has the Ukranian Ministry of Internal Affairs done?

ShaiHulud
Dec 31, 2007


Forum Hussy posted:

So I took apart my bolt to clean it, then instead of "knowing what I was doing" I decided to try "hammering like a god drat retard" to put these pins back in. Now my extractor pin is wedged in there by the firing pin retainer, and the firing pin retainer is sticking out like an inch from the side of the bolt. Plus it won't retain the firing pin

edit: Aaaannnd now the punch is stuck in there too. I'm too stupid for this, selling my guns to fund a new hobby like lincoln logs or flying helicopters.

West African child soldiers manage to figure this poo poo out with fewer problems - I've got some of those too-big-to-swallow building blocks (Duplo I think?) if you want to arrange a trade. For future reference, it shouldn't be necessary to disassemble the bolt for regular cleaning. Unless you've got a bunch of dirt or grit inside and the extractor no longer grabs the cartridge, leave the thing assembled and squirt some brake cleaner into the crevices.
To be constructive, I'd suggest sticking the entire menagerie into the freezer for an hour, then hosing it down liberally with whatever oil you have on hand. Try to remove the punch with vicegrips using a twisting motion. If you don't make immediate progress, stop - breaking the punch will make your problems worse. If you mushroomed the head of the punch or the end of the retaining pin inside the firing pin channel and it won't budge, you should consult a gunsmith.

AntiTank posted:

Maybe russian ministry of defense will sell you one
I'm still counting on Mishaco to smuggle me some Bizon and Vintorez blueprints out of the Ministry of Defense inside a well-hidden cleaning kit tube. Priorities. Actually, if Mishaco can smuggle me in the door I'll gladly be the rear end-mule.

ShaiHulud
Dec 31, 2007


Tossed_Salad_Man posted:

I'm not sure about cleaning the gas piston with a rotary grinder though.

Much of TFR treats BOT as scripture, but practices like this and cleaning the piston with a wire wheel are evidence that Don can be a bit of a hayseed at times. My AKs get a light spray of brake cleaner on the piston and bolt, a squirt into the gas port, and a boresnake down the barrel. Every month or so I'll do a more thorough cleaning (brake cleaner/kerosene inside receiver and gas tube, wipe down recoil spring, remove and soak muzzle device in solvent). Leave the piston scorched-looking, go extremely light on the lube (I run mine dry), and do not put any lubricant whatsoever inside the gas tube.

ShaiHulud
Dec 31, 2007



I've never seen a real Chinese 56-2. Google says Finland and Estonia use/used rifles with the same buttstock.

ShaiHulud
Dec 31, 2007


Cyrano4747 posted:

IT's the type of grip you see on actual chinese military AKs. Google around for pictures of PLA soldiers and you'll see what I mean.

Other than the folding stock Type 56-2 that I posted on the last page, could you link me to some images or suggest some search terms that illustrate what you're talking about? My first few pages of Google image results only turn up PLA guys with Type 56 rifles and normal (by Chinese standards) grips without the distinctive flat bottom cut.

ShaiHulud
Dec 31, 2007


Ptolemaeus posted:

I just picked up a WASR-10 from a local gun show on the cheap, about 200$, and I must say this is one of the worst guns I have ever purchased.
Have you shot it yet? Would you say that it was worth it saving $100 over buying a new one?

quote:

the slide had to be filed a bit.
Say what now?

ShaiHulud
Dec 31, 2007


Shubs posted:

What's the consensus on this?:http://www.jgsales.com/product_info...e5e59a6f7bddcf7

Quality receiver, and a much better buy than a Tantal if you want something chambered in 5.45x39mm.

ShaiHulud
Dec 31, 2007


Neo Mara posted:

uh

"This firearm was assembled by Century Arms International"

How is Century messing up a Bulgarian kit a better buy than Century messing up a Polish kit?

A messed up Polish kit? Do you have Century Tantal buyer's remorse, or do you own an Interarms Tantal? I forgot to include "hurrr Century puts AKs together backwards durf". Century's QC has gotten much better, Century imports some cool poo poo that nobody else will bother with, and Century's steady dumping of value-priced WASRs helps keep AK and AK accessory prices down.

Write these down:
    * Wire stocks are uncomfortable pieces of poo poo
    * Bulgarian AK74 builds are guaranteed to have the correct barrel installed
    * gently caress your goofy upper handguard

ShaiHulud fucked around with this message at 02:56 on Jan 20, 2010

ShaiHulud
Dec 31, 2007


Uncle Caveman posted:

You n' me, we're like kindred sprits

Keep your hacksaw away from my tang you monster.

ShaiHulud
Dec 31, 2007


Neo Mara posted:

there is literally no good reason to buy a crapshoot at $450 when you are guaranteed to get an excellent gun for $700-$800
The rifle that Shubs posted isn't any more of a crapshoot than any other new firearm. As is well known by most who follow the news, Century got their poo poo together. Yes, spending more for an Arsenal will yield you a cosmetically nicer looking rifle. "Quality used gun" is even more of a crapshoot, as recently realized by the TFR individual who bought a bargain-priced AK at a gun show. Perhaps Shubs' budget is indeed stretched, perhaps he/she would rather spend the savings on ammo, or perhaps he/she realizes that Tantal wire folding stocks suck a dick.

I'm not sure what your advocating other than 'spend more money', but a $450 AK will function just fine, and the AK74 that was posted is a fine product.

Uncle Caveman posted:

...
THE HORROR!

ShaiHulud
Dec 31, 2007


Neo Mara posted:

Actually he bought a used WASR, which doesn't qualify as a quality gun in the first place and is exactly what I'm talking about.

So if you're recommeding he spend his money on a Century AK74, I take it you own one and are pleased with its quality, right?

A WASR that (pending pics) was very likely hosed with by the original owner. We have an entire Gunborker thread dedicated to Dremel-smiths and butchers. The NDS receiver guarantees that the AK74 in question is a double stack from the beginning, not an imported-and-converted single stack. Not all Century rifles are WASRS, so I don't see how that corresponds to exactly what you're talking about. I have shot the exact rifle that Shubs posted on several occasions at the gun club, but I haven't bought an AK in years since a decent rivet-pressing tool was created. I've seen enough Bulgarian parts kits and purchased enough receivers from Harlan to know that its impossible for even Century to gently caress it up. Rather than continue to split hairs, can you explain exactly why you believe a Century Bulgy 74 is terrible and why a Tantal is worth an additional few hundred dollars?

ShaiHulud
Dec 31, 2007


Cyrano4747 posted:

It wasn't that long ago that they used the wrong loving barrels in 5.45 builds.

In Tantal builds, of all things. Like most manufacturers dealing with parts from different sources (in this case, Green Mountain) getting the problem recognized and resolved took way too long. The rifle in question is not a WASR - it is assembled in the U.S. on a Nodak receiver (not a crappy Armory, etc) from Bulgarian parts - not from Romanian rough-milled seconds. You might not believe this, but Arsenal cranks out a turd occasionally too. So yeah, consider the dead horse beaten, Century has had quality control issues and WASRs are rough. You're sticking with the argument that a Tantal (non-Century, of course) is worth several hundred more than a U.S. built '74 because Century had QC issues w/ outsourced barrels and Romanian WASRs?

ShaiHulud
Dec 31, 2007



Georgia, VT?


CENTURY!

Nice rifle - just wondering why you took cleaning rod out for the pic(if you don't have one & want a free one PM me).

ShaiHulud
Dec 31, 2007


daskrolator posted:

Is there any way one can tell based on the inscriptions on the can?

Any and all Cyrillic writing on a sealed steel indicates corrosive ammo. Cope's,Dan's Ammo, or Surplus Ammo usually have better prices (Surplus Ammo @ $129+shipping/1080rds). Classic Arms has done this in the past, not out of maliciousness or an intent to mislead, but because they sincerely believe that lot of ammo is anything other than run-of-the-mill 7N6.

Edit: ^^what Neo Mara said

ShaiHulud fucked around with this message at 03:51 on Jan 26, 2010

ShaiHulud
Dec 31, 2007


That annotated pic is awesome and should be incorporated into the OP.

Factory codes:
3 = Ulyanovsk
7 = Amursk
17 = Barnaul
60 = Frunze
270 = Voroshilovgrad
539 = Tula
711 = Klimovsk
188 = Novosibirsk

ShaiHulud
Dec 31, 2007


Kommienzuspadt posted:

for the life of me i cannot understand why anybody would buy non surplus AK mags, unless they just really, really like cheap injected molded plastic.

Some people apparently think lovely magazines are worth the 3 parts (Magazine body, magazine follower, magazine floorplate) towards their compliance checklist.


Miso Beno posted:

I kind of want to see how bad those TAPCO AK magazines are though.

A range regular decided to buy an AK after shooting mine. The next time I saw him he was showing off his stockpile of tactical coyote-colored Tapco magazines. They were too wide to fit into the magwell without shaving off plastic, so he decided it was easier to dremel his WASR (and the magazine spacer tabs within) than ditch his plastic magazines. He had some gem about 'hurr Commie-made garbage' when he tried one of my mags and noticed that D.D.R. steel surplus mags wobbled in his hosed magwell.

ShaiHulud
Dec 31, 2007


Kommienzuspadt posted:

i dont think your friend "gets" AKs.

This guy is just one of many assclown regulars at the range I shoot at most often. He's an officer of the sportsman's club, and unfortunately influences a lot of people into following his path of gun-stupidity. He's so overweight that simply walking leaves him winded, and I think a video of him shooting an action pistol stage will be a fine addition to the gun videos thread.

ShaiHulud
Dec 31, 2007


DakianDelomast posted:

Are there any options other than the PSL/ROMAK-III/whatever other stupid names the rifle has obtained? Most important is it a good rifle (accurate, nicely built, not going to fall apart)?

Sorry I can't give any advice re: pricing as I haven't been watching these rifles for some time. About the only similarity between the PSL and the SVD is the cartridge they fire. A PSL is nothing more than a beefed up AK, so don't expect MOA accuracy at any great distance. The barrel is somewhat thin and heats up quickly, so expect considerable shot stringing during rapid fire. There were reports from PSL owners of loose rear trunnions attributed to usage of heavy ball ammo, so its generally recommended to stick to 147gr light ball. 7N1 ammo is noticeably more accurate than standard surplus light ball, but also considerably more expensive. The factory buttstock makes optics usage awkward at best, but I think Combloc rangefinding reticles are awesome. Because it's an AK design you'll be hard-pressed to break anything even if you're trying (some people do stupid poo poo like attaching a bipod directly to their handguard, which tends to crack eventually). Fit and finish is typical of most Romanian rifles - its not going to be a work of art, and you might see some rough machining, slightly misshapen rivet heads, etc.
Yugoslavia produced a DMR chambered in 8mm Mauser called the M76 - by most accounts this rifle is more accurate than a PSL, but more expensive.
Izhmash makes Saiga rifles chambered in .308 that are excellent, but lack the military styling that some collectors desire.
I will be manufacturing a US-made SVD as soon as Mishaco smuggles me into the Izhmash factory to borrow blueprints.

ShaiHulud
Dec 31, 2007


AK gas tubes (especially from one country of manufacture to another) often require minor fitting. Swapping upper handguards while keeping your Romanian gas tube is probably easier. I'm not a huge fan of MpiKm furniture, as it feels cheap and is somewhat lighter than comparable polymer furniture.

ShaiHulud
Dec 31, 2007


AntiTank posted:

AK-47 carrier, 5.56 bolt, spring loaded firing pin, RPK gas system, milled receiver, Galil safety and stock, Austrian barrel, right folding stock, polish mags. It's an abomination.

I see the bamboo peg of a Chinese magazine pouch peeking out there too. Abomination or harmonious mingling of the international proletariat?

Also, is that milled receiver a Bulgarian Arsenal?

ShaiHulud
Dec 31, 2007


wav3form posted:

Reminds me of the black white supremacist skit from Dave Chapelle.

The one that is linked right above your post?


GAH.

ShaiHulud
Dec 31, 2007


Uncle Caveman posted:

It's cumbersome as all hell, but it can be made to work.

I don't know how California feels about this, but in that configuration those rifles are begging to be dedicated bump-firing platforms.

ShaiHulud
Dec 31, 2007


Scarecrow411 posted:

The finger thing is a bit annoying, but it's California - so you have to put up with it. You could install a bullet button and then throw a pistol grip on there, or you could move to a free state...

To date I have had zero interest in trying to keep up to date with California's zany laws, so thanks for pointing this out. Given the choice between an AK that only E.T.'s finger could reach the trigger on and dealing with the comparably minor inconvenience of a bullet button....

I'd like to mention that I saw a "California legal" RPD this afternoon converted to straight pull bolt action and I shed a tear.

BrainGlitch posted:

All ak metal refinishing is evil except parking.
The newer Russian AKs and all imported Saigas have got that enamel-over-park finish that seems to be a huge improvement over just parking in terms of both durability and aesthetics. I wouldn't mind having a quart or two of that around.

ShaiHulud
Dec 31, 2007


Cyrano4747 posted:

Go ask your local auto shop for a few gallons of the paint they use on car engines. I forget the name, but it's some high-temp enamel that's basically what communists put on their guns.

Not quite the same I'm afraid. One of my first homebuild AKs was Duplicolor 1000 degree Hemi Orange, and while that stuff is nice and solvent resistant, it lacks the toughness of the factory finish, but is easy to apply if you don't have an HVLP spray gun. Roughly in order of effectiveness, this has been my experience:

Alumahyde<Engine Enamel<Duracoat<GunKote<Cerma coat<Moly Resin<Factory finish

ShaiHulud
Dec 31, 2007


Bogon posted:

Ive been thinking of adding a left hand charging handle to my s12 but since Im not willing to cut in to my BCG and dust cover any one have recommendations to whom can do this?

Check the Saiga Forums - a guy going by 'gunfixr' has done everything from a TIG-welded handle to a FAL-style non-reciprocating charging handle. I'm not sure if he offers this as a service, but it wouldn't hurt to ask. Spare S12 bolt carriers and dust covers turn up on Gunbroker occasionally

ShaiHulud
Dec 31, 2007


Gay Black Fascist posted:

Just to clarify, the parts kit can be sent to me, but the receiver must go to the FFL correct? As for what kind it is, NoDak is the way to go right?
Exactly - parts kit to your door, receiver to an FFL. I haven't found a better made receiver than NoDak Spud.

quote:

Tools are also an issue, what all do I need?
You can use a big hammer or a modified set of bolt cutters to squash the rivets, but getting a proper rivet setting device is the way to go. If you can weld and have access to metal stock, you can build your own riveting fixture (try googling for the '555th rivet tool'). A riveting tool like this is ideally used with a press, but I've also seen builds done by squeezing the riveting tool in a Harbor Freight vice (the vice is ruined in the process, but Harbor Freight tools don't last very long when not abused anyway). A drill press will be helpful, as will a pile of scrap steel and aluminum to fabricate any tooling you elected not to buy.

quote:

I've also seen rivets/screws mentioned, any idea where to get these or do they come with the kits or receiver?
Screw builds are sloppy - you can buy rivets at AK Builder - they are of the correct hardness and squish nicely.

quote:

Any links to a building guide would help as well, all the ones I've seen from searching leave a bit to be desired.
It's hard to write a definitive guide for building an AK, depending on the particular model you're building (each has its own tricky bits) and the relative skill level of the builder. Your best bet would be to jump on the IRC channel and ask questions there.

quote:

Also I assume the receiver is plain metal, what should I use/do to finish it (best look/effort mix)?
I like flat black Moly Resin. As I posted a bit ago, my experience has been Alumahyde<Engine Enamel<Duracoat<GunKote<Cerma coat<Moly Resin<Factory Izhmash finish. You'll need at minimum a cheap hobby airbrush set, air compressor, an oven, and sandblasting setup(~80 grit aluminum oxide).

Building an AK is no longer the money saver it used to be, but you can sell the tooling if you decide to never again build an AK. The most difficult part of the entire build is pressing the barrel into the trunnion (and pressing on a gas block and front sight block if you've got a virgin barrel), and you'll need to buy or ghetto-rig something to support the trunnion while pressing it in (a night in the freezer and a big fuckoff hammer work too, but that isn't something I'd recommend unless you're going for Khyber Pass authenticity). Apex has the best prices on parts kits the last time I looked, and AK-Builder has all the 922 compliance parts you'll need.

ShaiHulud
Dec 31, 2007


Does anybody have a handy link to a cheap source for nylon-web AK slings? I picked a few up at a gunshow, and had one issued with a WASR, so I'm not sure whether they're definitely Romanian or not. I find them much more supple than 'regular' cloth slings, especially when they get wet, muddy etc.

ShaiHulud
Dec 31, 2007


BrainGlitch posted:

It looks like it might be a lancaster or something. I doubt it's worth $300 more than an m70 or similar underfoldaz

The Polish underfolders that Atlantic is selling are assembled by Allied Armament. The M70AB2 you linked to on AIMSurplus is mfg'd by Century. Yugoslavia didn't like to use chrome barrels, so that's a nice plus on the Polish rifle. The Poles make a pretty drat nice AK.

The Tantal folding wire stock is garbage. Same goes for the DDR wirefolders. Underfolding stocks are slightly less uncomfortable. Triangle folding stocks are acceptably comfortable on a 5.45 chambered (and hopefully SBR'd) rifle, and solid folding buttstocks are nice but pricey.

ShaiHulud
Dec 31, 2007


Cucaracha posted:

For whatever reason I've had it in my head that I need an AK with a chrome lined barrel, but honestly don't know how much of a difference it would make. Is a gat with a chrome lined barrel going shoot better? Or is it only a matter of corrosion and cleanliness?

A chromed barrel is easier to clean and more resistant to wear and corrosion. The most popular rifles (Yugoslavian) built from non-chrome-lined military issued barrels can be a mixed bag and often show significant erosion which can negatively impact accuracy.

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ShaiHulud
Dec 31, 2007


Kommienzuspadt posted:

what if you want to mount that hilariously large russian weaponlight whose name escapes me at the moment?

You could probably fit a big fuckoff maglite inside a GP-30.

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