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stangman
Mar 13, 2003



Best AK thread. Also, I dont know if you did the poo poo post icon on purpose but I approve.

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stangman
Mar 13, 2003



Mishaco posted:

SLR-106 UR = .223 / 5.56 NATO
SLR-107 UR = 7.62x39 M43
SLR-104 UR = 5.45x39 M74

I spoke with Arsenal and K-Var about them on Monday and no real official release date for the SLR-104 UR, though the 106 UR and 107 UR as SBR have been out there in limited numbers for a couple of years now.
That 104 was at last years shot show. There aren't any plans I know of for anything in 5.45 to come from bulgaria.

stangman
Mar 13, 2003



Ugh park sucks. The only thing worse than park (as far as durability) is the chinese bluing, and I'd still rather have blued. Even the rommie junk is better. Any kind of gunkote or duracoat or modern finish is light-years ahead a park (and not just because park comes out gray, which sucks also). Even paint over park is better than park. God I hate gray parked AKs. /rant

stangman
Mar 13, 2003



Kommienzuspadt posted:

what if you want to mount that hilariously large russian weaponlight whose name escapes me at the moment?
Znich? It doesnt use the acc. lug and it's not really huge so maybe you're thinking of something else.

stangman
Mar 13, 2003



Can you operate a dremel?

stangman
Mar 13, 2003



Honestly, I wouldn't bother with converting a saiga in 7.62x39 since there are so many options out there for ones that already have evil parts. I converted a .308, but there was no option for anything already done.

See how much the SGLs are going for, or even a WASR.

stangman
Mar 13, 2003



Mad Dragon posted:

Anybody else have one of these?


Click here for the full 2048x1536 image.

(AK and AKM cutaway poster printed in Russian)

I got it from the Shotgun News back in the early 90s, when Soviet paraphernalia was still new and mysterious. I should probably get a frame for it.
Pretty cool. I've actually seen them for a lot of soviet weapons. I know there's one for the AKS-74U, and I've even seen one for an RPG.

Edit: Found some, they're pretty common.
http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=159529397 Chinese
http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=159841543 AK-74
http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=159476868 Krink

stangman fucked around with this message at 23:40 on Mar 4, 2010

stangman
Mar 13, 2003



Looking at it, I guess the extra hole above where the cleaning kit goes is just a lightening measure. AKMs and later don't have that.

stangman
Mar 13, 2003



Are you thinking of Romania's 'tree' arsenal mark?

In addition to the obvious Russian tooling, the Bulgarian arsenals occasionally used Russian parts. I'm not sure if they were given them, purchased them, etc. On their 74's for example, the front trunnions on a lot of them were actually Russian. The triangle folding stocks with a ribbed buttstock and rolled sides are Tula.

I had never seen sanitized mags passed off as Bulgarian however. Sounds like a distributor there had a shitload of mags and cleaned them up a bit. There is a lot of stuff 'made in Bulgaria' now that has nothing to do with their original arsenals or military.

stangman
Mar 13, 2003



That's hosed up. Does it have a US made barrel? When was it built by them? Did you try shooting it without the muzzle brake?

stangman
Mar 13, 2003



Sten Freak posted:

Exactly which model is this?
A normal bulgarian 74, not a tantal.

stangman
Mar 13, 2003



Uncle Caveman posted:

I'm 99.9% certain... unlike 7.62x39, I've never seen or even heard of a single-stack 5.45x39 mag being produced.
Romania made some, but I've never seen one.

http://www.novarata.net/Linx310/model.htm#992

stangman
Mar 13, 2003



ShaiHulud posted:

With an ITM receiver I would wager that the rivet holes are already oblong. Bending your dust cover slightly will keep it from flying off, but it will continue to shoot itself loose. You mention "taking it in to have the rear trunnion reset" - if you have someone with the necessary equipment to do this, consider demilling and rebuilding the gun on a NodakSpud fully heat treated receiver with AK-Builder rivets.
Agreeing with this. The OOW/ITM receivers weren't fully heat treated. This is why you want a fully heat treated receiver. Yes, there's probably something else going on, but the problem at the trunnion would not be nearly as bad.

A vented gas tube would do little or nothing, but wouldn't hurt. Like 99% of the impulse on the gas piston is over by the time it would be back far enough around the holes. By that point the gas tube has already opened up into the star pattern and gas is blowing past the piston like crazy anyway. Plus, if it's an AKM pattern gas block (pretty much has to be) it already has holes where it meets the gas tube also. So much of the impulse occurs within the gas block that the rifle could actually function with no gas tube, assuming something guided the piston back into the gas block.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_hcuVyTcITQ

If you're going to try and save it, find someone to remove the trunnion, weld up the holes, redrill the trunnion holes, and spot heat treat them. Reinstall a trunnion, paint the receiver, and get a new recoil spring. Expensive, yes, but still cheaper than a total rebuild on a new receiver.

stangman fucked around with this message at 00:24 on Apr 17, 2010

stangman
Mar 13, 2003



Pinbacker posted:

So I took my saiga to get a new FSB installed since the original was visibly canted. When I got it back from the gunsmith he had milled into the barrel slightly on both sides to get the FSB off. He milled it off because it was one of the newer saigas with a punched in FSB instead of pins. My question is, will this explode in my face, or is this safe to shoot?
Pics?

stangman
Mar 13, 2003



If you cant see any huge milled off sections from the muzzle end, I wouldn't worry about it.

stangman
Mar 13, 2003



Harmburger posted:

I've got a question about your AK pictured here, is the receiver made in Cleveland? The marking that's shown partially in the photo seems to match the one that my buddy with a Cleveland-local receiver has.
Yeah, Ohio Ordinance Works - OOW

They also went by ITM, but I don't know what ITM stood for.

stangman
Mar 13, 2003



Black Stormy posted:

Am I wrong for wanting to have the barrel of this SAR-1 threaded? It just looks... empty.
It would be wrong if you didn't want to. I've had a couple SAR-1s and threaded both. Easy and 100% worth it.

stangman
Mar 13, 2003



ShaiHulud posted:

Many websites sell a kit consisting of a 14x1mm LH die and 'thread alignment tool' or 'TAT' that fits inside the bore to ensure concentric threads. Use Google for the cheapest price. Dinzag Arms rents a threading kit (die+die holder+TAT) for around $30 if you don't imagine needing it more than once.
Yep, I rented someone elses kit once and the one from dinzag the last time. The first time I spent more time freaking out about doing it than actually doing it. It's really straightforward.

stangman
Mar 13, 2003



daskrolator posted:

I ran across this today.

http://www.midwestguntrader.com/viewad.asp?id=58001405114101909

It's a sealed in bag mak 90. The seller claims its milled but pics don't make it look like it, but notice it does have an underfolder rear trunnion so that's a plus.

Is it worth 650-700 in a FTF?

I would think that if it were 150 dollars cheaper then it would be a steal. What does AK mega thread think?
No. You can find preban underfolders for only a couple hundred more if you look around. I bought an unfired NHM-90 with underfolder trunnion for like 360 and when I was done converting it I had 650-700 in the project (underfolder, US wood pistol grip, G2 FCG, chinese handguards, milled FSB and gas block all added up). If you started at 650 it makes no sense at all.

stangman fucked around with this message at 17:43 on May 3, 2010

stangman
Mar 13, 2003



televiper posted:

T'ain't on their website yet; do you know the price?

With the non-SBR version in 5.56 going for $1100, i'm almost afraid to ask.
Arsenal is only making 20. If the retail is under $2500 I'll be surprised.

stangman
Mar 13, 2003



5.45. Real Americans get krinks in 7.62x39 I'm doing a 107UR build but truth be told I would rather have 5.45x39

Sgt. Shaved Balls posted:

I don't see a lot of reason to go through this guy over a more trusted place like AIM or classicarms. The sin/war stories have made me paranoid though.
AIM and classic don't build anything. Troy Sellars and Inrange have been building AKs longer than I've been into them (at least 4-5 years). If you meant krinkfreak, he's been around equally as long and can be trusted 100%. They've done a lot of special edition rifles, back to when they were on ar15.com.

stangman fucked around with this message at 00:38 on May 15, 2010

stangman
Mar 13, 2003



It's ridiculous how much can be fixed on an AK with a hammer and/or file.

My favorite is when I tell SLR-106/107 users that they just need to file off part of the triangle stock to get it to latch in the front. It's as if I'm some redneck. Seriously, just file it loving down and it will work.

I also hammered my upper rails down on my 74 when the bolt was riding over rounds in the mag. BFH = problem solved.

stangman
Mar 13, 2003



Gay Black Fascist posted:


edit - the more I think about it and watch how fast a press and ak builder riveting tool can do it the more just using my friends shop seems better and better
Buy the rivet tool, use your friends shop, then sell the rivet tool.

stangman
Mar 13, 2003



GodlessCommie posted:

http://www.deactivated-guns.co.uk/d...e/prod_819.html

What the gently caress AK is this? It's 7.62 and made in 1993. I'm thinking Romanian but they don't make Russian-type folding stocks.
Seconding some kind of KP or one-off. The triangle stock doesn't look like any issued stock I've seen (the back plate is totally flat).

For mishaco, the trunnion is marked TC 6975 1993, no arsenal mark. There's a proof stamp with D-A and crossed swords..

stangman
Mar 13, 2003



Anyone with a welder feel like helping me out? I need a small bead welded onto the bottom of my saigas selector lever so the safety will work. Should take like 5 seconds of welding time..

stangman
Mar 13, 2003



Whats up AK thread? I haven't been on SA in like years.

Anyway, yeah that looks like a nice scope. I've never seen that mount, but it looks similar to an SVD mount. It will sit farther back than the "V" mount made for AKs. You can change to a V mount later if you want (it moves the scope higher and farther forward).

The 4x AK ret model is pretty standard, you did fine on the price. Probably made in belarus, but for the money they are great optics.

SVD mount:
http://kalinkaoptics.com/rifle-scop...vd-version.html

AK mount:
http://kalinkaoptics.com/rifle-scopes/posp/posp-4x24-rifle-scope-w-1000-meter-rangefinder-mil-spec-grey-1-5v-aa-battery-ak-version.html

You'd use this to change it..
http://kalinkaoptics.com/accessories/for-posp/posp-ak-bottom-mount-w-black-finish-for-posp-scopes-hot-swappable.html

stangman fucked around with this message at 09:05 on Dec 22, 2011

stangman
Mar 13, 2003



sky shark posted:

Yep, I still want it. With the cylindrical mag. I don't care how fubar or wonky it is.
Agreed. My sub-2000 with glock mags is one of my favorite guns; that would be like 100x cooler.

stangman
Mar 13, 2003



The vector RPK74s were a decent deal. The $1400 parts kits at ORF were not. I probably could have picked one up back then, and kinda wish I had, but I can say that about a lot of guns. An 86s I almost bought is at the top of that list.

stangman
Mar 13, 2003



Sounds like you need a dremel. Here's some pics of my 308 conversion, if they'll help, but I just ground off the rivets with a dremel.




The rivets I dremeled off were at number 2 and 3. Then I dremeled through the welds at number 4. You may not be seeing the welds at number 4, not sure. The only thing I actually drilled was number 1.

stangman fucked around with this message at 05:59 on Jun 8, 2012

stangman
Mar 13, 2003



A dremel made short work of them, but if you don't have one maybe try to find titanium coated bits. Stick with it. I don't know if you're using the original trigger guard, but here's some more pics for the hell of it..








Drilled new holes for the trigger guard at 8 and 9, then used small screws, nuts, and locktite.

stangman fucked around with this message at 16:04 on Jun 8, 2012

stangman
Mar 13, 2003



Ceros_X posted:

Anyone here have any experience with Bulgarian AK-74 mag fit issues? I recently got 5 circle 21 mags for a good price ($17 each) from a guy off AR15.com, but when I go to insert them it takes a shitload of effort to get them seated correctly and even more effort to remove them. I have one sanitized Russian mag that seats like butter and the Tapco and Promags I have seat without problem. All 5 of the mags I got are extremely hard to insert and remove - to the point where I have to hunch over the rifle when trying to remove them.

I have seen some posters on other forums mention needing to file down the locking lug to ensure a smooth fit. On examining my new mags it seems like their locking lugs are square, while my sanitized Russian import mag seems like the notch is angled. The Tapco and Promag ones seem to have angled locking lugs also. Do I need to file down these lugs also? Anyone else experienced this before?



The area that's more square at the back wouldn't have anything to do with removing them. The latch at that point is contacting the lower surface. What is hard about seating and removing them, the latch or actually getting the mag into and out of the mag well?

I had similar issues removing mags in my 74, and it ended up being 2 problems. The selector stop plate wasn't far enough forward, or the front tab part of it had been filed off, so the mag moved slightly rearward when using the latch to release the mag. In effect it would then bind up, the harder you pushed the latch, the more it just kind of dug into the lug. The builder then apparently filed down the latch a little to attempt to fix that problem, which then gave me a weird 1 in 100 FTF problem since the mags sat slightly too low. It was only after I replaced the mag latch and built out the selector stop a bit that the gun is 100%.

In short, it took some really careful observation of how the magazines were interfacing with the mag well and mag catch to see what was actually off. Don't file on anything other than a mag (or really anything) until you have a better idea of where the problem is. If it just seems like the mag won't go up high enough, check the top of the mag were it contacts a rail I believe. It looks like they may have more material on the top than the russian.

stangman fucked around with this message at 15:24 on Jun 11, 2012

stangman
Mar 13, 2003



incredibull posted:

Yep.. JB Weld is an awesome patching/filling epoxy, even on guns. I would never suggest using JB Weld to repair a gun part, but to fill in little cosmetic issues like the Izhmash barrel component dimples, it's perfect. The only other thing that would work would be to weld them.
This is about the most I'd use it for. I added a tab to the back of the mag well on my 74, similar to you see on AKMs. When I tried to remove a mag and had any pressure on the front the mag would move rearward and just bind up harder the harder I pushed on the latch. If I just pushed the latch forward without touching the mag it released fine every time. With the 1/16" of JB weld the mag does not move back at all and the latch is perfect, holding the mag or not.

I'm not 100% thrilled with it, but there's no easy way to weld a bead there that I know of, and I'm not going to remove and re-rivet the trigger guard.

stangman
Mar 13, 2003



daskrolator posted:

Clones isn't the right word at all, the type 56 variants came from the same factory factory and production line of the same type 56s made at the time. The only difference being the inclusion of an auto sear hole on the receiver and the auto sear itself. The disconnector, hammer, and bolt carrier are all full auto parts for the type 56s. They're 100% factory guns, both in labor and parts. I can see how you could say the saiga conversions are clones or the wasr conversions are clones, or other sporting rifles imported and converted, but many of the pre-ban rifles are identical to their select fire counter-parts sans the auto sear/pin hole.
This is way into just arguing about semantics, but they're still clones IMO. For one, "factory" could have probably been one of half a dozen that made AKs, there is no single factory that made military AKs by day and polytechs by night for example. There is no guarantee that 316 made all their parts in house for all those nice polytechs either, or that 66 didn't get their bolts from the same factory up the river that supplied 316. I have a "norinco" with the reddish bolt commonly seen in polytechs. Nothing with chinese AKs is a certainty.

I get what you're saying that they're factory built, and yes any preban chinese trigger is more authentic than a tapco G2, but most pre-bans are not even accurate copies of military rifles anyway. Preban export rifles had threaded barrels, whereas a lot of the chinese military AKs had bare muzzles. Not all of them had dimples either. The chinese did all kind of stuff, and all kinds of stuff for export to different countries.

stangman fucked around with this message at 07:52 on Jun 18, 2012

stangman
Mar 13, 2003



BeanTaco posted:

As a New Zealander, the idea of people talking about Norinco quality is hilarious.
We can get a norinco sks new for $400 or a mini-14 new for $1600, and yet I've seen at least twice as many people rolling with mini-14's.
Seriously, the only people who could possibly want them are people who cant have them.
Also the type 56 sporters we get are called NHM-90, never seen any called MAK-90. Dunno if they're the same thing.
Well I don't know what quality they turn out now, but the norinco SKSs that made it to the states were second only to the Russians.

NHM-90 was another post-ban designation china used. It was most commonly seen on "preban" guns that were converted in customs after getting caught by the ban. Maybe they kept the designation as some export model they still use.

I don't really know what to say about the mini-14 thing. I'd take an SKS-D over a mini-14 at any price point. The only thing the mini has over a normal SKS is high-cap mags.

stangman
Mar 13, 2003



Mishaco posted:

You are right, i did make a mistake with the rate-reducer on the Type 56. I thought it was added when they went to the stamped AKM style 1.5mm receiver in the '60s. I called a friend really into Chicom AKs and he told me that no actually that was one of the Chinese departures from the AKM style on the later Type 56s. Of course, the stamped ones were really more like aK47s just built with stamped receivers, than true AKMs. Interestingly, the Yugoslavian Zastava guns were much the same. When they went with the stamped receiver later in the M70 series, they kept many of the AK47 like features found on the M64 and early M70s. Its one reason i like Yugo guns so much. Also, as i said, the Type 56 semi-autos i've handled were Type 56S or Type 56 Sporter. You say some came in as just plain Type 56 and i believe you, so no worries. I will take your word on their bolt carriers too, as having not handled them, i don't know if the carriers had the tail milled off or not.
I would personally like to see any rare variation of any chinese AK, not because I'm calling anyone out, I just want to know as much as I can. There seriously are no firm rules. Just when you think you've seen everything something totally off the wall shows up.

stangman fucked around with this message at 07:35 on Jun 18, 2012

stangman
Mar 13, 2003



Mishaco posted:


Pre-89-ban Chinese AKs have already become collectable, but what most like about them are their 'evil' features such as the unique Chinese pattern of underfolding spike bayonet, or that really neat side-folding stock with cleaning kit compartment. MAK90s though, because of their banstyle features, are less saught after today. Because so many MAK90s were brought in, and because they aren't milspec, I don't expect them to ever be any more collectable than say a Romanian SAR-1 or Egyptian Maadi; both of which were mid to late '90s imports by Century. Also and finally, and this speaks more to their quality, but MAK90s were cheaper back when they were being sold new than were pre-89-ban Chinese AKs.
I don't want to come off too strong in the defense of MAK-90s, because I personally don't like them, just for the work needed to restore them. However, any chinese AK is going to be on a much more level playing field then maadis, wasrs, kit builds, etc, even arsenals in some cases. The vast majority are just solid solid rifles, if they haven't been hosed with by some previous moron like you said. The finish may be slightly worse on later MAKs, but it's a moot point since even the nicest bluing on a preban polytech is just about the worst possible practical finish you can get on an AK. I'd even put the romanian finish above in in terms of usefulness and ability to not rust assuming you keep it oiled. My 56s-1 (cut into an NHM-90) has a gorgeous finish, but it would be a nightmare in a jungle. The paint on my arsenal would fare better (as long as no one throws brake cleaner at me).

In short, people like factory built AKs and there aren't always a lot of options. MAK-90s are usually a cheap solid choice for an "ak." I would never buy one unless it was a previous underfolder, but it's a solid rifle. I agree they shouldn't be considered collectible.

stangman fucked around with this message at 07:50 on Jun 18, 2012

stangman
Mar 13, 2003



Norton Ghostride posted:

Haha that's actually what I was doing wrong the first time, but I think I've tried every possible way now. It's been 3 or 4 days of attempts (with the fcg flying apart frequently as I failed) and I'm about to just try buying a retaining pin or spring instead of the plate.
Honestly I like the springs better. I think the plates are a solution in search of a problem. On the one I've dealt with the selector had to go in last, which meant it had to be ground down to clear the disconnector. Well the tab was cut too short by the builder and it barely functions as a safety. I'm eventually going to weld a bead on the bottom and re-profile it.

Most of mine are the indicated century "right" way below. Put the selector (safety lever on the picture) in, put the spring around the center support (cross brace), push the spring down with a flathead screwdriver to install the hammer, then I use a hemostat or very small needle-nose to lift the spring for the trigger pin to go under it. It's really not hard at all.

stangman fucked around with this message at 05:08 on Jun 22, 2012

stangman
Mar 13, 2003



Wow, yeah there's no wiki entry about century. I figured at least if nothing else some pissed off customer would have put something up.

In any case, some of their stuff is pretty decent, so as much as people joke about monkeys at century, some of their stuff is GTG. The underfolders (yugo/polish) that people have mentioned lately are one example. I'd buy century over IO for example.

As for the bolt hold open on the saiga .308, i found it to be 50 times as hard to deal with as a normal FCG. It was a motherfucker of epic proportions. I almost didn't put it back in.

I'll take some pics tomorrow of how it's put in to help you out.

stangman
Mar 13, 2003



28_days posted:

My brother-in-law is looking for advice on a new AK (his first).

What's the best value in AKs these days, besides WASRs?

I'm thinking the Polish M1960 or possibly a Polish Tantal. He doesn't like the wire stock so it would need to be swapped. Are all other parts of both of these rifles interchangeable? He doesn't want any components that are unique (sans the Tantal's upper handguard).

Thoughts?

Thanks!

PS: is the Polish M1960 the same as the Polish AKMS? I've seen some with fixed stocks, others with folders. Are the folders replaceable with a solid stock if wanted?
The AMDs built on FEG receivers are probably the best deal going right now, but they're not a traditional AKM and it has a wire stock. But for everyone else..

http://centerfiresystems.com/akagun-amd.aspx

stangman fucked around with this message at 06:09 on Jun 23, 2012

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stangman
Mar 13, 2003



DrPop posted:

Quick image dump. Finally have all the parts for my forthcoming MPi-KM build in hand.


Entire kit. Parts kit was from Apex, receiver from 74U LLC, non-greasy upper and lower handguard are from Robert RTG, barrel is one of the new virgin Romanian ones from Apex, rivets from AK-builder, Tapco trigger group and muzzle brake are from some online store I can't remember.


Close up of the receiver. Looks to be perfect.


The lower handguard options I have. Upper is non-greasy bakelite late style from Robert RTG, lower is earlier wooden beech one that came with the kit.


Close up on the pistol grips. Left is a reproduction from Ronin's grips, right is an authentic one that came with the kit. Have yet to de-grease the surplus one, but repro appears to be a bit smaller and lighter in color. Still happy with it, though. Will allow me to maintain the "proper" look while staying within the requirements of 922(r) with an all-foreign mag.

Looking forward to getting it all built and complete. A DDR AK is something I've coveted for quite some time.

quote:

But by this logic, an AK parts kit assembled by an American should be a "made in USA" rifle. In fact, there are several manufacturers that do just that, including I.O.

Frankly I'm really tired of trying to guess what the ATF actually means in 922r.
922r is such a bitch. For a chinese conversion I did I had to spend like 50 on an IWD pistol grip, 35 on a G2, and whatever for a gas piston. Almost $100 in US parts, to exactly replicate what was already there. That's all it does is cost people money and inconvenience them, if they choose to even follow the stupid thing. The whole sporting purpose import thing needs to go. Oh, yeah, you can build whatever AR you want here, but we get barrel bans on imports.

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