Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Neo Mara
Apr 20, 2005



Mishaco posted:

Also interesting note. Izhmash is marketing their quad-stack 5.45x39 magazines quite heavily now. Maybe eventually some will make it over here to the USA?

I read that they had some pretty big problems with reliablity and longevity on the quad stack 60 rounders initially. Have they worked those out with new revisions?

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Neo Mara
Apr 20, 2005



I got a new Kalashnikov today but it doesn't seem to shoot bullets??

Neo Mara
Apr 20, 2005



I am in the midst of tactiloling up my AK so I guess I'll list what I've done and what I liked. I just shot it for the first time since swaping parts last weekend so this is limited experiance with these parts but here are my impressions so far.

Base AK is a Vector built Polish AKM kit on an Armory USA reciever, Tapco G2 trigger group.

mods:

FSE Recoil Pad: $25 shipped, recomended
Much more contact area than the stock butt plate and made of rubber. I want to note that I did 3 things to reduce felt recoil to the gun all at once and so I can't say how much each one did on its own but my gun has went from being midly unpleasant after extended shooting to being a dream to shoot. Recoil reducing part 1 of 3.

Customizable ITC Cheekrest at DS Arms: $38 shipped, probably not recomended.
I am going to have to go back on my recomendation on this one from the previous AK thread after shooting the gun with it on. During use the pad will slip forward as far as it can and when it does that it sits in the dip on the top of the AK stock. Its not nearly as comfortable when that happens. I am going to cut a piece of foam to replace the inserts to compensate and I think I will be very happy with it at that point but I think thats probably much more than most people are looking to do so I'm changing this to not recomended.

Tapco SAW grip: around $15, recomended for grip ony, not recomeded if storage is required.
Grip is extremely comfortable to me, although my old lady says its a little to big for her. Personal preference here. Quality for the grip itself is good, but the cover for the "storage compartment" is a joke. I wouldn't trust it to keep my farts sealed up let alone something as important as a battery.

FSC-47 brake w/ mild flash suppression: around $90, recomended
again one of 3 recoil reducing parts I added so I can't comment how much was the brake. I'd be willing to wager it reduces a lot more than the slant brake it replaced, and its much shorter than a 74 style brake, and it adds a little flash suppression so I'm pretty happy with this one. I like the styling (preference here) and it comes with an o-ring to eliminate wobble caused by the way AK muzzle devices mount.

Meprolight windage/elevation adjustable tritium night sights: $78 shipped, probably not recomended.
There are two things that keep me from recomending these if you plan on using these as your primary sights. Firstly, there is not enough tension on the threads of the front sight when installed and the front sight turns during recoil. I even tried blue loctite but it didn't fill up enough room in the threads to form a seal. I just bought some thread locking gel and I'm hoping that will keep it still and if it does the sights will at least be usable. The other thing wrong with them is the rear sight has a slight left to right upward cant to it when viewed from the rear, messing up a correct sight picture. The tritium was very bright though. Since these will be only back up sights once I have an optic on the gun, as long as I can get the front sight post secured they're not a total loss as they were about $60 cheaper than a comparable Ameriglo set up. No personal experiance with either brand but I would probably recomend you try XS or Ameriglo if tritium sights are desired for your primary sights.

Ultimak railed gas tube (non-vented): $88 shipped, recomended
Clamps to the barrel, installation was slightly annoying. Lowest rail possible. I haven't mounted an optic on this yet but if the word around the internet is to be trusted they hold zero perfectly. Ultimak claims it can increase accuracy. I assume this is because it clamps to the barrel and increases consistancy of the movement of the bolt/piston, contrasting the stock gas tube which has some play. This is actually the 3rd recoil reducing part and I wasn't expecting that. The reason is my 45 gas block has 4 holes, two on each side, where it mates up to the gas tube. The stock gas tube covers up half of each hole. The Ulitmak tube is shorter than the stock tube (Ulitmak says this is to allow expansion of the metal under heat) and exposes almost all of the four holes, allowing more venting. Not sure how much exactly but its worth mentioning.

Tapco Intrafuse Handgaurd: price $30, recomened for lower handgaurd.
For my lower hand gaurd I wanted a bottom rail so I could use a hand stop and no side rails since I didn't need them and didnt want the extra girth of rails with rail covers on them. As far as I found that only left Command Arms and Tapco Intrafuse lower handgaurds. From what I could see the Command Arms rail didn't go all the way to the rear of the handgaurd so Tapco it was. Had I known the Command Arms handgaurd didn't come with a heat sheild that would have been no-go right there. During rapid fire the Intrafuse handgaurd remained cool despite the Ultimak getting too hot to touch. The Intrafuse set comes with a railed upper handgaurd too but I'm already using the Ulitmak and I'd be willing to place money that it wouldn't hold zero anyway so right in the parts box it went. When used with the stock gas tube the Tapco lower handgaurd had no left to right play and a slight amount of vertical play. When installed with the Ultimak gastube there is no play at all. For my hand stop I first tried a KAC hand stop but it was too small to be comfortable and effective with this set up. I had a Command Arms SVG lying around and after some time with the hacksaw and files it became a suitable handstop. There are plenty of other options for super stubby grips, I only used this since I already had it and I had no other use for it. I added and Ergo medium rail cover and filed the width slighty to match the width of the hardgaurd.

pic of My Ultimak + lower handgaurd setup http://neomara.net/akhandgaurd.jpg

Still to do:
Vltor offset light mount w/ Surefire
Optic, probably Eotech XPS3-0
edit: oh and Krebs safety

Neo Mara fucked around with this message at 06:26 on Jan 14, 2010

Neo Mara
Apr 20, 2005



ShaiHulud posted:

Quality receiver, and a much better buy than a Tantal if you want something chambered in 5.45x39mm.

uh

"This firearm was assembled by Century Arms International"

How is Century messing up a Bulgarian kit a better buy than Century messing up a Polish kit?

Neo Mara
Apr 20, 2005



I don't have any Tantals or guns made by Century because there is literally no good reason to buy a crapshoot at $450 when you are guaranteed to get an excellent gun for $700-$800. And if you budget is really that streched, buy a quality used gun instead of a known to be problematic new gun.

Neo Mara
Apr 20, 2005



ShaiHulud posted:

"Quality used gun" is even more of a crapshoot, as recently realized by the TFR individual who bought a bargain-priced AK at a gun show.

Actually he bought a used WASR, which doesn't qualify as a quality gun in the first place and is exactly what I'm talking about.

So if you're recommeding he spend his money on a Century AK74, I take it you own one and are pleased with its quality, right?

Neo Mara
Apr 20, 2005



I never recommened a Tantal, I said buying one Century POS is not a better buy than another Century POS, because both are not worth spending ANY money on. You can get SGL-31s brand new for less than $800.

Neo Mara
Apr 20, 2005



Let me know if you want some foam to cut a custom piece for your cheekpad. I bought some high resiliency foam and I had to make a minimum order of $10 so now I have 11 extra pieces of 6"x8"x2". The pad wants to slip all the way forward when the gun fires so I just let it sit then and cut the foam so that there is extra for that little dip right behind the dustcover.

Neo Mara
Apr 20, 2005



Action Jesus posted:



This one is select fire. Can't imagine shooting a full auto AK with that stock

Neo Mara
Apr 20, 2005



Its corrosive. In fact I don't think there is any milsurp 5.45 that is not. For that matter, I'm not sure if there is any milsurp 7.62x39 that is non-corrosive either.

Neo Mara
Apr 20, 2005



Cyrano4747 posted:

Give it another 10-15 years and we will probably be seeing truly non-corrosive 5.45.

Oh man that's going to be awesome.

Neo Mara
Apr 20, 2005



Its too bad the safe and fire positions cant be the other way around because that would make that one bitchin AK safety

Neo Mara
Apr 20, 2005



Gay Black Fascist posted:

I don't know if anyone has seen this before, but a guy is selling a riser for AMD-65s wire stocks as well as other AK's like Tantals for $30.



http://www.amd65tech.com/expertise.html if anyone wants to order one, although it looks pretty simple to make if you have the tools.

Molestache not included.

Neo Mara
Apr 20, 2005



http://vodpod.com/watch/1092428-clayton-bigsby-chappelles-show-comedy-central

Neo Mara
Apr 20, 2005



Aside from pouring sand in the action, how the gently caress are you guys getting your AKs to jam at all? That's why you buy quality mags and quality guns. I'm at around 3500 rounds, mostly Wolf and some Brown bear. It's never been cleaned, just greased when I first got it and its never had a single malfunction.

Neo Mara
Apr 20, 2005



ShaiHulud posted:

"Combined with enough flash suppression to keep the flash out of your optics and line of sight. This device has been classified as a non-flash suppressing device by the BATFE."

Probably a waste of $100.

Its because its a brake more than its a flash suppressor.

I have one and I'm happy with it and I think it was worth it, Craptacular didn't like his and didn't think it was worth it.

I've already went into detail earlier in thread so I won't here but my AKM has been seriously tamed by FSC47 brake + FSE recoil pad. I would never go back.

Neo Mara
Apr 20, 2005



ShaiHulud posted:

I understand that, and having never used one, I can't say it's a piece of crap, I just thought the wording was funny.

They word it that way because its an important distinction for people in states that ban flash hiders but not muzzle brakes.

Neo Mara
Apr 20, 2005



Cyrano4747 posted:

Do you people honestly have enough trouble with the recoil of your AK that you need a muzzle break and a goddamned recoil pad?

How the hell are you holding those things when you fire them - pressing the buttplate against your forehead?

Seriously, learn how to properly hold and fire a rifle before spending $100 on a break and however much more on a recoil pad. This isn't even a macho "pussies can't take recoil " thing - if an intermediate cartridge is proving too uncomfortable to fire or if you are experiencing really significant muzzle climb, even when stringing shots somewhat rapid fire, you just aren't holding the gun properly.

There's a good video tutorial on the fundamentals of how to hold a rifle in the OP of the milsurp megathread. Start there, then google around to find out how to use the sling that (probably) came with your AK. Even the shittiest soviet AK sling will work to steady the rifle enough to let you rip out rapid fire and stay reasonably on target.

Well I can't speak for anyone else but since I'm the one who just advocated the use of brake with recoil pad I'm going to take that as being mostly directed at me.

First of all yes, I know how to hold a rifle properly and I sometimes use hastly sling while shooting. I had a secondary MOS as a marksmanship instuctor and I don't need to watch the video of the man with the admittedly amusing old timey American accent because I gave those classes myself. Yes, the fundimentals are important but when using a milspec AKM they don't make up for everything thats going on.

Firstly while I personally enjoy the use of a two point sling in a hasty config, hasty and loop slings are not appropriate for the OPERATOR type shooting most people seem to be interested in currently.

Second the AK is not an AR. The AK has much more mass being sent to the rear than an AR does, and its mass is not completely centered on the bore the way an AR's is. This makes for an increased amount of actual and felt recoil. When you combine that with the fact that a milspec AKM stock has a much smaller foot print than any AR stock, the shooter feels even more perceived recoil as that extra force sent to the rear is distributed over a relativly small area. This is where a recoil pad helps by greatly increasing the area that force is distributed over.

Lastly on the subject of brakes, the slant brake that is most common on AKM type rifles is next to worthless. If you're trying to imply that an actual effective brake will not help you with shot recovery if proper form is being used I don't really know what to tell you. As far as price, you're better off comparing a 74 style brake to a PWS J-tac47 since neither reduces flash. The PWS is still more expensive but has a much smaller OAL than the mil style ones do. If you want a brake with flash suppresion on your AK the FSC is the only game in town and its still shorter than a 74 style brake. Pick which ever one you want but you cannot be seriously be suggesting that no improvment can be had over a slant brake.

Neo Mara
Apr 20, 2005



Mishaco posted:

I wll say this though, the slant brake does suck pretty big. Yeah it helps say 10-15% but an AK-74, birdcage, or other brake will do a better job. But all of those cost $20-30. I think where myself and others are kind of objecting is the idea of spending $100ish on a brake that is only marginly more effective than a $25 one.

Like I said, get whatever brake meets your needs and what you have to spend but you have to at least compare a 74 style brake to a pws jtac47 if you want to compare apples to apples. It would be more like $75 compared to the $25 of the 74 style brake. For that extra $50 you get a brake thats shorter, lighter, and probably slightly more effective. It may be not worth it to some but its entirely subjective since you can easily say you are getting more for the extra cash.

Neo Mara
Apr 20, 2005



Probably the best thing they could do to boost sales besides what you mentioned would be to put a rifle rear trunion in the pistol. Fixed works but triangle folder type would be prefered. For the fixed trunion add a piece of wood or plastic or something to protect the tang. For the folder trunion just detach the stock and you're good, nothing hanging off the back. This would let people have an easy SBR with no gun smithing. I dont see why the ATF wouldn't approve the build since pistol versions of ARs and MP5s et al can simply have a stock attached.

Neo Mara
Apr 20, 2005



Mishaco posted:

so long TGI

good riddance

Neo Mara
Apr 20, 2005



I bought a TGI PSL and it had a major problem they would not return my calls or emails. Thanks TGI!

Neo Mara
Apr 20, 2005



Aleksei Vasiliev posted:

maybe you shouldn't have broken your gun

cool thanks

Neo Mara
Apr 20, 2005



Miso Beno posted:

What's wrong with it?

The bolt would fill up with metal shavings inside the bolt. After about 60 rounds the firing pin could not move enough to strike the primers. The bolt had to be detail tripped and cleaned out each time. Eventually the bolt wouldn't even dissasemble anymore. The bolt was replaced and it now runs fine but it was no thanks to TGI.

Neo Mara
Apr 20, 2005



Miso Beno posted:

Sounds like an oversize firing pin hole filling with blown out primer chunks. Woo, Romania.

The firing pin hole and primers looked fine from what I remember and the shavings were so large they would only come out with the firing pin removed which led me to reason that they were not entering the bolt so much as being generated inside of it. But I dunno, could be. I couldn't find any info about a similar problem for AKs or PSLs online.

Neo Mara
Apr 20, 2005



ZebraBlade posted:

Any ideas? Getting burned is really putting me off poor quality products.

fixed

also Mishaco offered to buy it off you for a a fair price right? thats honestly your best option.

Neo Mara
Apr 20, 2005



$250 is exactly what Mishaco offered you on the previous page...

Neo Mara
Apr 20, 2005



I agree with ShaiHulud. Rebuild on a new Nodak receiver. But it also may be over gased. If you're not the DIY type just switch to a vented gas tube. And if you're the DIY type here is what I would do. After rebuild use the stock gas tube and put a brand new recoil buffer in the gun. Test fire about 100 rounds. If you have impacts on the buffer drill two holes, one on each side, in the gas tube. Make them a similar size to an AK ported gas tube hole and start them at the front of the gas tube. Start over with a new recoil buffer and test fire again. If you have impacts, drill two more holes in the tube, placing them right behind the first two. Repeat this process untill you have no impacts on the recoil buffer, then remove the recoil buffer and dont use them anymore.

Neo Mara
Apr 20, 2005



Atticus_1354 posted:

Can that stock be put on a WASR10?

no, only the version that has the side folding mechanism outside the reciever which looks like rear end

Neo Mara
Apr 20, 2005



Take one of these with you, you're going to want it if you shoot more than a couple mags

http://www.fseusa.com/product_info.php?cPath=95&products_id=339&osCsid=ff04d8b29651b4d0bf612aa9b751b96a

Neo Mara
Apr 20, 2005



If you are going to gamble with a WASR, dear god dont buy it at a gun show. Buy from a dealer who will take it back if its hosed.

Neo Mara
Apr 20, 2005



Any time I have need to use a Dremel bit I just put it in my drill. No Dremel crew.

Neo Mara
Apr 20, 2005



NosmoKing posted:

Anyone know what's up with the texas weapon systems dogleg rail guys??

I sent in an order in their wacky "form" that is supposed to set me towards the path to paypal-ing them money. I also sent an e-mail to their contact info and I ain't heard poo poo.

It's been like 2 weeks.

Are they out of bidnezz? If so, who's my alternate source?

they are in the middle of putting out their gen 2 rail and said they aren't going to make the gen 1 rail anymore. Current stock from distributors is probably your only way to go.

Neo Mara
Apr 20, 2005



Pretty sure someone linked 7.62 to 5.45 converted drums earlier in the thread..

Neo Mara
Apr 20, 2005



mischief posted:

6 of them are brown with a circle 21 marking. 4 are black with a circle 10 marking. 2 are steel and look really nice but don't work for poo poo. 1 of them is a plum magazine of unknown origin with some kind of moon language scratched in the side of it.

None of them feel like they're painted or anything, the color looks to be part of the plastic itself.

Edit: The plum has an Izhmash proof on it.

circle 21 and circle 10 are both bulgy marks.

Neo Mara
Apr 20, 2005



The rail uses a new recoil spring guide which is included to cinch down the top cover.

Neo Mara
Apr 20, 2005



abortionfailure posted:

Also, look to the rear of the receiver cover. See that odd cut out in the side? The aluminum is bent in to act as a spring and resist side to side movement. Its a very interesting design and I cant wait until he's got the bugs all worked out.

I'm waiting for the fully adjustable peep.

Neo Mara
Apr 20, 2005



Professor Awesome posted:

Okay, so there's a dozen AK-74 mag bodies in the classifieds thread for $35 shipped and I've found sources for floorplates and followers that comes out to about $75 total for 12 sets. All I need now are magazine springs, but I can't seem to find any just by googling. I know I can get 12 complete mags from Apex or Midway for about $170 but if anyone knows where to get springs for a few bucks apiece I could still save some cash.

email wolff and ask them if their ak47 springs would be suitable for a 74
http://www.gunsprings.com/index.cfm?page=items&cID=2&mID=77

Neo Mara
Apr 20, 2005



incredibull posted:

I appreciate your opinion as a good gunsmith here, but I would like it to be tighter than it is. It has several MM of lateral movement at the tip of the brake, this is far too much for my taste. I started flat-filing the base of the brake and this seems to be working out so far; the brake is hand-tight at the base and the detent notch moves ever closer as I slowly progress.

you can simply put a high temp O ring at the bottom of the brake like PWS does for their AK brakes. You should always ask before you file

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Neo Mara
Apr 20, 2005



I see 3 barrels but 5 BCGs?

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply