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Grey Hunter posted:how tiny? Fleet scale. I went in on a lot of still-incomplete fleets before I realized that there wasn't a) a local Full thrust scene and b) social anxiety would make that probably a moot point anyway. The TIE Fighters are much smaller, even the Defenders. 
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Sep 19, 2020 06:24
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Need to paint a poo poo ton of 28mm. Any ideas for colours, and brands? I'm a former GW and Vallejo man, tended to like Vallejo better. Soviets should be a mix of regular and winter infantry.
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Sep 19, 2020 11:35
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Going for speedy tabletop quality or something more?
Springfield Fatts fucked around with this message at 16:54 on Sep 19, 2020 |
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Sep 19, 2020 16:09
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For speedy tabletop quality of infantry Games Workshop's contrast paints are basically cheating. They work great on anything with a lot of texture, which happens to be all WW2 infantry with their baggy uniforms. https://www.wargaming3d.com/2019/08/06/speed-painting-wwii-infantry-with-citadel-contrast-paints/
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Sep 19, 2020 16:48
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When I eventually make it onto my 28mm Bersaglieri I am just going to use that guide exactly. No reason to put in too much effort for "beige and skin".
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Sep 19, 2020 20:25
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Springfield Fatts posted:Going for speedy tabletop quality or something more? Decent tabletop quality. However, having enough for soviet infantry of various types and tanks and terrain will cost an arm and a leg with GW, will it not?
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Sep 19, 2020 21:08
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GW paints haven't really changed price in about 15 years TBH. They're still very good value.
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Sep 19, 2020 21:28
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I think Battlefront went back to Vallejo, which is good because their in-house brand was Not Good. But you might do well to pick up one of their Vallejo soviet sets, they're still around and the ones that don't look like toy bullets.
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Sep 19, 2020 21:34
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Some have changed names though. Fortunately for me an old grog knew offhand that catachan green became castellan green. I've turned into a vallejo man myself after my GW stuff dried up after 12+ years in storage, but many of the VJ ones were fine.
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Sep 19, 2020 21:47
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lilljonas posted:There are some links you might want to check out here: Thanks! I actually have some unassembled Perry ACW Cav. I'm thinking I might try magnetizing the riders so I can use the horses with or without them. Tias posted:Need to paint a poo poo ton of 28mm. Any ideas for colours, and brands? I'm a former GW and Vallejo man, tended to like Vallejo better. IMO your best bet is vallejo since most painting guides you find tend to go with them, but be aware that because of COVID supplies of Vallejo are very haphazard a lot of places right now. I'm having to order from a couple different sites to get all the colors I need.
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Sep 19, 2020 21:48
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DBA Polybian Roman army is done! 1 equites w/ general 1 equites 2 velites 6 hastati/principes 2 triarii    I'm very happy with how everything turned out. Now I have 12 bases of later Carthaginians to paint up and I can play a game against myself.
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Sep 20, 2020 00:34
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Got my first batch of Germans (mostly) done up.  I still need to do some small detail work on the infantry, like the collars, epaulettes and transfers once they come in.
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Sep 20, 2020 16:48
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NSFW: French Hussar gets sucked up in a vacuum, body is mangled 
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Sep 20, 2020 22:14
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Zuul the Cat posted:Got my first batch of Germans (mostly) done up. This is absolutely stunning, in particular that Panzer!
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Sep 21, 2020 00:07
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NUMBER 1 FULCI FAN posted:NSFW: French Hussar gets sucked up in a vacuum, body is mangled 
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Sep 21, 2020 05:27
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Having trouble figuring out what this guy is in the French ligne box from Perry... There's 2 on each sprue, this is one, the other is in greatcoat.  The shako says command or flank unit (well, command, since there no extra tuft on the pompom) but the uniform looks fusilier to me? Is it a legere unit? What am I missing?
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Sep 21, 2020 22:06
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Think it's fair to call this 4pt Viking warband done. 
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Sep 22, 2020 02:47
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That runestone is a really nice touch.
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Sep 22, 2020 04:33
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NUMBER 1 FULCI FAN posted:Having trouble figuring out what this guy is in the French ligne box from Perry... There's 2 on each sprue, this is one, the other is in greatcoat. That, my friend, is a bog standard footsloggin' fusilier. The reason that the shako looks different is that he's not wearing a shako cover. Those were not related to a specific type of troops, but were generally worn to protect the shako from rain, dust and other hardships on campaign. Sometimes soldiers would write their regimental number on the shako cover, or elite company distinctions (the grenade or the horn).  Since he's not wearing a cover, you can see the shako plate with the eagle and the plated chinguards tucked up behind the pompom. You can stick him and his greatcoated friend into whichever fusilier company you want.
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Sep 22, 2020 07:49
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I knew I could count on liljonas. Thanks!
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Sep 22, 2020 13:05
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mllaneza posted:Tiny Thingamajigs on Shapeways. Thanks for the link! Unfortunately the ships all appear to be WW2 vintage, though he makes modern aircraft
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Sep 24, 2020 18:09
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NUMBER 1 FULCI FAN posted:I knew I could count on liljonas. Thanks! No probs! Don't hesitate to ask, I love nerding out on the French napoleonic army. That said, yesterday I had my first game of Saga. It was quite fun, even if I ended up throwing Viking warriors into the horrible meat grinder called "Scottish Hearthguards". I'm closing to having my first 4 points painted, so I'll post pics of them as soon as they're done. Now I think I'll need to order me some berzerkers for a bit of payback...
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Sep 24, 2020 20:24
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Any one play blood and plunder by firelock? It has pirates and ships. Hopefully I will have my first game of it this weekend. I don't have enough pirate minis so im substituting some similar models in. 
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Sep 24, 2020 20:43
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Wako pirates of the Caribbean
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Sep 24, 2020 22:45
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Asian pirates are tight. Meanwhile, our DAK forces will get some mounts:  The 250 is resin from blitzkrieg/perry, the 251s are from Warlord. It's a special feeling when you spend hours painting a crew, only to have 75% of the surfaces covered. But no regrets!    Given that the entire 15th panzer division had like, 12 of these, it's a bit silly to paint up two. But again: no regrets! As usual more pics on the blog: https://krigetkommer.weebly.com/mediterranean-theater/german-halftracks-for-north-africa
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Sep 25, 2020 13:30
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Those look great! It may have taken a lot of work to do that crew, but they really make the models stand out. I've got 28mm Italians I need to work on...
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Sep 25, 2020 15:44
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lilljonas posted:Asian pirates are tight. God drat those look good, I love your highlighting style. What's your recipe for flesh?
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Sep 25, 2020 15:45
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Der Shovel posted:God drat those look good, I love your highlighting style. Thanks! My go-to flesh recipe: 1) Start by giving the entire area a darker basecoat, I use Vallejo's Cork Brown or Beige Red depending on which is closest at hand. If you don't have it, mix your skin paint with some light brown and maybe a dab of red or even purple. The exact shade is not super important, you just want something slightly darker than the skin tone you're aiming for. This first coat is also helpful if you're using a white or black primer, as it'll give you a more neutral shade to work from. 2) Give it a flesh-coloured wash. GW's Reiksland Fleshwash works great. 3) Go back and do a medium coat of the Cork Brown or Beige red (or whatever you used), leaving some shadows from the wash. 4) Do a highlight mixing the darker basecoat mixed with a lighter flesh shade. I use Vallejo's Basic Skin Tone At this point you're fine and dandy, but if you want to you can do a second highlight, using more Basic Skin Tone in the mix or even just using Basic Skin tone. It's surprisingly light given the name, so I rarely do even brighter highlights. But if you want, like for someone really pale, you can "switch" the recipe a notch lighter to begin with, and do the highligts by mixing Basic Skin Tone and some white.
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Sep 25, 2020 16:13
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lilljonas posted:Asian pirates are tight. Man, these are so good! You make me want to start a DAK army. I started working on a Tiger I last night.   I have a MiG filter for 3 tone camo coming in the mail which I'll use on this one. I also gave it a pin wash this morning. I had a devil of a time getting the tracks to line up with this kit so I ended up just tossing them and ordering a track set from AFV club. Anyone have any experience?
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Sep 25, 2020 16:25
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lilljonas posted:No probs! Don't hesitate to ask, I love nerding out on the French napoleonic army. I so want to get into napoleonics but I'm torn between a tiny scale for ~~epic battles~~ and the gorgeous Perry 28mm. Actually the entire line infantry era Perry range is amazing, from AWI to the zulu wars, but that era really lends itself to smaller scales in my mind.
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Sep 25, 2020 19:32
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lilljonas posted:Thanks! My go-to flesh recipe:
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Sep 25, 2020 19:56
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Edgar Allen Ho posted:I so want to get into napoleonics but I'm torn between a tiny scale for ~~epic battles~~ and the gorgeous Perry 28mm. There are a couple cool rulesets for Napoleonics in 28mm including Sharpe Practice 2 which you only need like 30-40 models a side for.
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Sep 25, 2020 20:06
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It just occured to me that when I started wargaming, 30-40 Space Marines was a "big" game...  my free space.
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Sep 25, 2020 20:12
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Arquinsiel posted:Could you post a picture guide? I'm having trouble imagining the shades here. I'll take some pics tomorrow. Edgar Allen Ho posted:I so want to get into napoleonics but I'm torn between a tiny scale for ~~epic battles~~ and the gorgeous Perry 28mm. Yeah it's a tough one. Small scales means you'll be able to paint an army much much much faster, and you can recreate huge battles. Especially if you go really small, like 2-3 mm. But 28mm minis look great. Seconding the option to try out some skirmish style napoleonic game if you want to try out the whole uniform painting thing, two boxes of Perry and you're set for a Sharp Practice force. Arquinsiel posted:It just occured to me that when I started wargaming, 30-40 Space Marines was a "big" game... Napoleonics taught me to paint armies. Really, before them I had never painted anything really big, and my samurai army was years in process. Now I've been able to keep up a 1 mini/day pace average over long stretches of time, and at that pace you churn out armies. The best part is that I could use that discipline, when needed, to paint stuff like WW2 or vikings or whatever, and just blast out a smaller force as well. Zuul the Cat posted:Man, these are so good! You make me want to start a DAK army. No experience of AFVs track sets, but I do have experience of tracks not lining up and ending up with shamefully bad fits that you just hope people won't notice. :O
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Sep 25, 2020 20:41
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lilljonas posted:Napoleonics taught me to paint armies. Really, before them I had never painted anything really big, and my samurai army was years in process. Now I've been able to keep up a 1 mini/day pace average over long stretches of time, and at that pace you churn out armies. The best part is that I could use that discipline, when needed, to paint stuff like WW2 or vikings or whatever, and just blast out a smaller force as well.
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Sep 25, 2020 21:08
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Painting armies isn't as hard as most people think it is. There are two big mental problems that prevent a lot of people from doing it. The first is that it's just.. loving daunting. All that gray plastic. Or pewter. So many models. You start doing the dreary mental math of how long it will take you, and it just seems insurmountable. Like standing at the bottom of a mountain and looking up. But you get up a mountain by just starting and putting one foot in front of the other, and before you know it, you are up. The second is perfectionism. People want to do their best on every model - But this is impossible when painting an army for a big army game. You need to compromise. To put it in nerdy terms appropriate for the thread, your guys need to be less like Tigers - bespoke, lovingly hand crafted jewels of artifice utterly impractical for the task at hand - And more like T-34s, cynically designed to be as good as possible for as little time spent and effort spent as possible. Embrace compromise. Accept that painting ten guys to 80% of the quality it would take you to paint one to 100% is how you need to paint armies. Having a fully painted army is deeply satisfying in a way that having 10% of your army painted to 100% of your potential isn't. I'm not saying everything you paint should be a rushjob - Definitely give your centerpieces some extra love - But painting display models and painting armies is not the same thing, and if you treat them the same you will be awful at both. Spend some time designing a colour scheme that looks good with as few paints and steps as possible. Do a couple of test models to see what works, and what steps you can shave off. And then sit down and just start doing it.  Not historicals, but I painted these twenty Chaos Marauders in one sitting, starting at about 8pm and ending at midnight, with breaks. I spent around ten minutes on each. Individually, they definitely aren't perfect, but as a unit, they look great. I used only four contrast paints on each - Skin, black for the pants and shields, brown for the wood bits and hair, and gray for the metal on the weapons.
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Sep 25, 2020 21:27
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Also, a nice base takes very little time but goes a long way to making even mediocre models look great. I would describe my painting abilities as "supremely meh" but I spend like an extra minute adding little details to the bases and it sometimes tricks people into thinking I'm better than I really am. I even won Best Painted at a tournament for my Bolt Action Japanese (even though they're probably my most poorly painted army) because my jungle bases looked pretty. Can't take a new pic at the moment but here's an example: 
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Sep 25, 2020 23:24
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Question on rules for people who have a lot deeper grog experience than I do. I'm getting into 6mm ancients and I'm looking for a rule set to simulate large numbers of troops without too much slowdown. I'm shooting for rules that feel larger/more epic in scale to do justice to the tons of minis I plan on painting. Additionally, since I'm working in 6mm scale I'm trying to avoid rules sets that have individual base removal for casualties. I have some experience, but mostly what I've played before misses the mark in one way or another. 1. DBA/DBMM - I've played DBA here and there over the years and can't get over the PIP roll. It just rubs me the wrong way and makes me look unkindly on the game. Is there a good house rule for it? 2. Warmaster Ancients/Hail Caesar - I've played the latter a couple of times with a relatively small army. It works, but it seems like a lot of units could slow it down to an unreasonable degree. 3. Kings of War Historicals - lots of experience with the KoW rules but with every unit moving each turn it just doesn't quite feel up to the scale. For better or for worse, it feels like smaller engagement rules. 4. Milites Militum - I can't find much on this game but it sounds like it might work. 5. Tactica II - there seems to be some people who love it and some who hate it. I can't be sure from the spotty reviews, but I think it might involve individual base removal. 6. Armati 2 - Not sure on this one, but some TMP people recommend it for the period. 7. To The Strongest! - seems interesting but I'm not sure if it has base removal. The grid system is not necessarily a problem. 8. Mighty Armies: Ancients - again, I can't find much about it other than a random recommend on TMP. 9. Field of Glory - love the books but as a game it seems to miss all the marks for me. If anyone has anything I should know about ancients in the scale I'd love to hear it.
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Sep 26, 2020 02:00
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Geisladisk posted:Painting armies isn't as hard as most people think it is. There are two big mental problems that prevent a lot of people from doing it. Good advice. Also, paint "assembly line" style. For example, paint every uniform brown. Then drybrush every uniform. Then paint every helmet. Then paint all of the boots. Etc, etc. I managed to knock this out in a few months: 
Cessna fucked around with this message at 05:01 on Sep 28, 2020 |
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Sep 26, 2020 05:15
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EverettLO posted:If anyone has anything I should know about ancients in the scale I'd love to hear it. Most of these takes are pretty spot on. My only comments I like To The Strongest! for quicker games as the grid really saves time on the most laborious part of ancients, maneuvering. There's no individual model removal, but only two friendly units can occupy a square so you might be restricted in how grand a scale you're aiming for modelling purposes. But if you go with the 6" suggested grid that's a pretty big frontage you can have for each unit. For more crunch I like L'art De La Guerre (or ADLG) as it's like a cleaned up DBA/DBMM with graphical examples of play and parsed in text that's way easier to understand. There's also the new Mortem Et Gloriam that's got PSC pushing for it but I only casually glanced at it and it seems to have mixed the gimmicky activation schemes of a TFL game with the proprietary dice of an FFG game. I kind of saw that and noped out.
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Sep 27, 2020 06:25
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