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Welcome to the Volvo Megathread, your discussion station for all things boxy and Swedish. The original Volvo megathread is available here. GENERAL FAQ What do all the model numbers mean?  Most Volvos up until the S40/S70 used a three-numeral naming scheme. This typically follows the convention: model series/number of cylinders/number of doors where a 245 would be a 200-series car with a four-cylinder engine and five doors. This isn't a hard-and-fast rule, but it works most of the time. A SHORT HISTORY OF VOLVO MODELS Most Volvos produced until 1997 are RWD and are powered by some variant of the Volvo "redblock" cast-iron 4-cylinder engine (except for the 960, which used a 6-cylinder "whiteblock" engine - more on that later.) These cars, especially the 240, are renowned among Volvo fans for their durability. Some came turbocharged from the factory. Models in this category include: Volvo 200 series (240, 260) Volvo 700 series (740, 760, 780) Volvo 900 series (940, 960, S/V90) In 1993, Volvo began selling their first FWD car, the 850, and gradually transitioned to producing FWD/AWD cars. These cars use a five- or six-cylinder version of Volvo's aluminum-block "modular" engine, also known as the "whiteblock." Volvo also moved to a new naming scheme late in the model run of the 850. Generally, anything with an S prefix is a sedan, anything with a V is a wagon, and anything with a C is a coupe/convertible. Cars with a T-5 suffix have a high-pressure turbocharger added to the engine for additional performance. Volvo introduced an XC ("cross country") line around this time as well, beginning with the V70 XC/XC70, which are generally soft-roaders in the vein of the Subaru Outback (minus the off-road prowess) or a full-on SUV, as with the XC60/90. Models in this category include: Volvo 850/S70/V70 (1995-2001: midsize sedan/wagon) Volvo C30 (two-door hatchback) Volvo C70 (two-door coupe/retractable-hardtop convertible) Volvo S40/V40 (compact sedan/wagon) Volvo S60/V70/XC70/V60 (2001-present: midsize sedan/wagon) Volvo S80 (large luxury sedan) Volvo XC60 (SUV/crossover) Volvo XC90 (SUV) VOLVO R CARS You may have seen a Volvo or two with an "R" badge on it at some point. "R" cars are Volvo's stab at the performance market, starting with the 850 T-5R in 1995. They feature a turbocharged five-cylinder engine and different interior trim to differentiate them from non-R cars. The S60/V70R also had a fancy/gimmicky adjustable-stiffness suspension setup. Don't confuse this with the "R-Design" trimline on more recent cars, which is mostly an appearance package. Cars that have received the R treatment include: 850R V70R (first and second generations) S60R (previous generation) GENERAL ONLINE RESOURCES FOR YOUR VOLVO Swedespeed: Focuses on the more modern FWD cars, but has some extremely knowledgeable RWD people as well. Turbobricks: Focuses heavily on RWD cars and RWD performance modifications, especially 200s/700s. Brickboard: Focuses heavily on RWD, but has an FWD section. The FAQ section on this site is an extremely useful resource for the 700/900 series. Volvospeed: Focuses mostly on FWD cars but has an RWD section as well. OWNER'S MANUALS Volvo provides an archive of owner's manuals and information for cars from 1965 on at their website. It's available here. MODEL-SPECIFIC SITES kjet.org: A wealth of information on 240s. Brickboard, specifically the 700/900-series FAQ. PARTS SOURCES FCP Groton sells general maintenance parts for almost every Volvo ever made. IPD sells a number of harder-to-find and performance-oriented parts for your Volvo. Please post in the thread with any suggestions/additions. TheJeffers fucked around with this message at 19:25 on Apr 16, 2013 |
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GENERAL MAINTENANCE ADVICE/NOTES FOR YOUR VOLVO TIMING BELTS  Many Volvo engines are interference-type, which means that your engine's pistons will be violently introduced to its valvetrain if the timing belt breaks. Check your owner's manual for details on when to change the belt.ELECTRONIC THROTTLE MODULE FAILURE Volvo began using Magnetti-Marelli electronic throttle modules in 1999 S70s. These parts were used in all S70s, V70s, S60s, and possibly S80s from 1999-2002. They inevitably fail due to a design flaw. These are warranted by Volvo to 10 years/200k miles, and when replaced they have a yellow sticker on the front. If yours still has a white sticker it has not been replaced and will very likely fail, so watch for signs and get in on the warranty if you can. If you can't, there's a place rebuilding them with optical position sensors instead of wiping mechanical contacts which appears to be a permanent fix. It's spendy (~500) but you only have to do it once, and it's cheaper than the Volvo replacements which are out of pocket now for all '99 and '00 cars, and '01s soon enough. (thanks LloydDobler) MODEL-SPECIFIC ISSUES/NOTES 240s HEATER CORE FAILURE This job is hell and requires removal of the entire dash. A detailed walkthrough of how to fix this is located here. 740s/760s (to be added) 940s (to be added) 960s 1992 960 TIMING BELT INTERVALS Early 960 engines have a different timing belt drive setup than later cars, which means frequent timing belt changes (every 20k-30k miles.) Keep this in mind if you're looking at an early 960. POROUS BLOCKS Some 960 engine blocks have been known to have casting issues, which can result in rapid coolant loss through the walls of the block. If you're looking at one of these cars, make sure you thoroughly check it for coolant leaks or attempted fixes. There is no fix for this issue short of replacing the entire block/engine. 850s/S70s (1993-2000) REAR MAIN SEAL FAILURE If the rear main seal on your 850/S70 fails, congratulations - this is another job from hell. The entire front subframe of the car will need to be dropped to allow removal of the transmission/access to the failed seal. Chances that this issue will occur can be reduced by replacing or cleaning the flame trap in the PCV system with every oil change, but some owners have indicated that a dirty flame trap is not the only cause. ABS PUMP FAILURE If the ABS/TRACS lights come on in your car, this is usually a result of the ABS pump failing. Googling this issue will bring up several sites that offer rebuilding services for the pump/module, which should solve the issue. S70s/V70s (1998-2000) (to be added) S60/V70 (2001-present) (to be added) XC90 meatpimp posted:Be careful when shopping for XC90s. The early (2003-2005, I think) top-of-the-line motor, the T6 twin-turbocharged 6 cylinder, was mated to a GM transmission undersized for the torque the motor put out. This means that the transmission is a 60k-80k replacement item, at a cost of several thousand dollars. TheJeffers fucked around with this message at 19:11 on May 15, 2010 |
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Apr 15, 2010 09:10
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Just so I can keep what everybody is driving straight, let's see your car(s). My current DD is LloydDobler's old 960, the amazing restoration of which can be seen here if you have archives.  Click here for the full 1280x851 image. We've also got a 1995 850 sedan in the family. TheJeffers fucked around with this message at 09:19 on Apr 15, 2010 |
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Apr 15, 2010 09:17
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Alright then, seeing as I got last post in the soon-to-be closed thread I will repost my question Well, I went to check out a 740 turbo today, ran into a few difficulties however. The car wouldn't start, so we put some petrol into it, turned it over a few more times, it started once, idled fine etc, so I killed it and tried to start it again and nothing. The voltmeter was reading 11 with the key on II and when it was idling was reading about 14, we also tried to start it with a battery booster and jumper leads to no avail. We didn't flood it, and the owner was adamant that it started easy most other times. I left and told him to shoot me an email when it was reliably starting again, but I'm wondering what could have caused the troubles? Bobby_Wokkerfella fucked around with this message at 10:26 on Apr 15, 2010 |
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Apr 15, 2010 09:33
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Under S60 notes you may wish to add that some of the S60s up until 2002 had problems with the electronic throttle module, causing rough idling, surges in acceleration, hesitation and occasionally unexplained acceleration. Sometimes even the replacements had the same problem if it was from the same time. I think one way to palliate it was to clean it with carb or throttle body cleaner. Edit: I dunno why I didn't notice that in the S70 section. But it applies to the S60 of that period too. Another site for it is http://www.vexedvolvo.org/ Here's mine.  Click here for the full 1306x932 image. Sir Sidney Poitier fucked around with this message at 11:39 on Apr 15, 2010 |
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Apr 15, 2010 10:30
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If you're going to include the XC90 in the Maintenance advice section, there's: Be careful when shopping for XC90s. The early (2003-2005, I think) top-of-the-line motor, the T6 twin-turbocharged 6 cylinder, was mated to a GM transmission undersized for the torque the motor put out. This means that the transmission is a 60k-80k replacement item, at a cost of several thousand dollars. In 2005 Volvo introduced a V8 to the lineup. It isn't plagued by the transmission problems, but as the engine is aging, a nasty problem is starting to show. There is an unlubricated countershaft bearing tucked into the "V," and there have been numerous reports of this bearing failing. The bearing isn't replaceable without an almost complete engine teardown, and that's if you catch it early enough. If you don't, the bad bearing will allow the engine to destroy itself. Volvo found out about this problem, which seems to be exacerbated by water getting into the area, and the fix Volvo came up with was a weep hole in later models. If you have one of the older V8s, DO NOT wash the motor. The turbocharged 2.5l 5 cylinder is the same motor Volvo's put into tons of cars and, as such, is just about bulletproof. The 3.2 6 cylinder came out in 2007 and has seemed to be pretty reliable, too.
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Apr 15, 2010 10:40
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Here's the best site for 7/9 series for maintenance tips you will ever find, pretty much ever. Most of it applies to 86+ 240's as well considering they share the same engine and computers: http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/FAQSummary1.htm here's mine  but really here's mine  Click here for the full 850x567 image.  Click here for the full 800x461 image. list of mods (and by mods I mean current problems): -Valve silencer eaten so now car sounds like sewing machine -Car needs a minute to warm up after driving or it will putter out and die -Turbocharger whistles and putters sometimes -Smells like oil when I accelerate on a cold start -Car jerks if I go past 4000RPM with more than 10psi -It's a Volvo
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Apr 15, 2010 10:42
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Anyone else goin' to the PA Ikea meet on the 25th?
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Apr 15, 2010 12:10
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I just went from this: Click here for the full 800x600 image. to this:  Click here for the full 800x600 image. And you have no idea how happy i am. One cylinder more, a 100hp more, a 2.4 liter engine instead of a 1.2 liter lawnmower, room in the trunk for more than just two bottles of beer, cruise control, AC and waaay more comfy. I think i'm in love. We had to completely rebuild the rear brakes though. They were not working AT ALL. Thank you guy who sold it to me for telling me that "theres nothing major to do except for an oil change" Yeah right. Still have to do something about about the paint. Its badly scuffed and scratched in some parts. And theres still some rust to take care of on the lid of the trunk. But who cares. Its a loving Volvo!
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Apr 15, 2010 13:20
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My wife's 1997 850 5-speed.   It's slow and beat to hell, but runs great. Picked it up last year for $2,500.
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Apr 15, 2010 14:44
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Bobby_Wokkerfella posted:The car wouldn't start, so we put some petrol into it, turned it over a few more times, it started once, idled fine etc, so I killed it and tried to start it again and nothing. The voltmeter was reading 11 with the key on II and when it was idling was reading about 14, we also tried to start it with a battery booster and jumper leads to no avail. What year is it? Did it turn over or no? The brickboard FAQ can help you narrow it down but it can be a number of things. Ask me how I know.
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Apr 15, 2010 15:47
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Yeah, edit the throttle body part to just indicate all Magnetti-Marelli ETMs from 99-02, found in ALL S70, V70, and S60 cars of those years. Not sure if they're the same as the S80 but it's quite possible. These are warranted by Volvo to 10 years/200k miles, and when replaced they have a yellow sticker on the front. If yours still has a white sticker it has not been replaced and will very likely fail, so watch for signs and get in on the warranty if you can. If you can't, there's a place rebuilding them with optical position sensors instead of wiping mechanical contacts which appears to be a permanent fix. It's spendy (~500) but you only have to do it once, and it's cheaper than the Volvo replacements which are out of pocket now for all '99 and '00 cars, and '01s soon enough. I learned to drive on a Volvo, and have owned 19 of them if you count parts cars. Here's my little fleet, most of you are already familiar with them. Summer fun car, daily driver, and classic collectible.    I'm actually settled on these 3 cars for the long term, I don't anticipate replacing any of them, but if I did it'd just be to upgrade the wagon to an R wagon. I don't see that happening unless I win the lottery or something. Edit: In 2017 I got an R and it lived up to expectations. Great to drive, massive money pit. Sold it in 2020 for the current white daily with no plans to replace it ever. We should probably have a section on specific models to seek out and specific models/engines to avoid. The porous block falls into that as well as the first year cars, the old V6s and the S80 in general. I'll be happy to contribute that in the next few days. Also, maybe a short section on the "special" Volvos that are moderately rare, like the 1800ES, the 164, and the 260/780 Bertones. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 00:49 on Sep 24, 2020 |
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Apr 15, 2010 16:02
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Xovaan posted:-Car jerks if I go past 4000RPM with more than 10psi Buddy of mine had this issue with his 83 242 turbo until he replaced one one of the fuel pumps with a walbro unit. I believe it was the inline pump, but it's been a couple years.
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Apr 15, 2010 16:15
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 Click here for the full 768x1024 image. This is the Volvo I need a bevy of positive feedback about to convince my pops to loan me $1100 to buy it, '87 240DL 5spd, heater works amazingly, interior is gorgeous and NO RUST. For some reason he does not believe this will be a reliable, efficient car that will be easy and cheap for me to service.
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Apr 15, 2010 16:56
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"... can be reduced by replacing or cleaning the flame trap in the PCV system with every oil change," Woah! I was told to replace the PCV every 70k miles (which, its about due), not every oil change! That would be a little ridiculous seeing as you have to take off the intake manifold and a whole bunch of other poo poo to do it..... Then again I've never done it, but from what I'm told its an annoying job. Besides that though Jeffers, you did an awesome job. Good OP. On to Volvo cred: If you see this hansom wagon driving around Ohio with a tall lerpy guy driving it, that's me. Howdy! Also, aside from this car.... there is a chance I'll be picking up a 245 here soon for two Lemons events at the end of this summer. We have a team (from turbobricks) and a car (again, from turbobricks... FOR FREE!!!!) and a whole bunch of free poo poo (from the generous members of turbobricks) so I might take part in driving an old hunk of Swedish metal to glory (or some such thing). Edit: For some reason I cant post pics...... just imagine a black 855, and imagine it looks good. Sviatoslav fucked around with this message at 17:09 on Apr 15, 2010 |
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Apr 15, 2010 17:00
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Thanks for the suggestions, guys. I'll go ahead and edit them into the OP shortly.  Sviatoslav, I actually made a mistake with the PCV info-people apparently recommend taking out the flame trap and cleaning it at each oil change, not totally replacing it. I'll fix that.  Splizwarf, I saw your post in the other thread-I'll see if there's not a way I can go through and screen-scrape it so that there's an archival copy. If there's something specific in there that you want preserved in this thread, let me know and I'll try and get it. TheJeffers fucked around with this message at 17:47 on Apr 15, 2010 |
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Apr 15, 2010 17:42
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If I was looking around for a reasonably quick, fairly reliable 90's Turbo Volvo which one would you guys recommend?
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Apr 15, 2010 18:09
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TheJeffers posted:Thanks for the suggestions, guys. I'll go ahead and edit them into the OP shortly. Hmmm, I'll have to figure out how to clean that... as I've never done it. Welp, I'm changing my oil this weekend anyway so I'll have to figure this out. A blown rear main has had me scared shitless since I bought the car last July. Nothing really to worry about, just when I got the car everyone told me "Oh sure its a loving tank, will last forever...... oh by the way a bad PCV to a rear main will make your life a living hell" so I've been super nervous about it, seeing as life likes to make things hell for me.
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Apr 15, 2010 18:12
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8ender posted:If I was looking around for a reasonably quick, fairly reliable 90's Turbo Volvo which one would you guys recommend? If you can, find a 95 850 T5R... in yellow... if you can. .... if you can find that, then you have super powers and I'll need you to find the other half of this rare ancient Egyptian amulet... If you are looking for something to drive daily, go the 850 route... I've heard bad things about S70's handling like poo poo, but I've never experienced driving one. 850's are cheap as dirt anymore and they have some of the best seats Volvo ever put in a car. Many of them came with turbos and from there its pretty much just bolting poo poo on til you are happy with how fast it is... Also they have 5 cylinders!!!! That is way cool. Unfortunately they are Front Wheel Drive, so you are limited with performance... but it will be a reasonably quick car. If you are looking for a cheap fun project car to wrench on and make quick... but don't have to drive every day, there is nothing cooler than seeing a 245 smoking the back tires. When people ask which Volvo's are the best, I tell them the wagons. There is a Volvo wagon out there that will meet your needs regardless of what they are. It will look ten thousand times better compared to the sedan and everyone will think you are awesome. Sviatoslav fucked around with this message at 18:26 on Apr 15, 2010 |
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Apr 15, 2010 18:23
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8ender posted:If I was looking around for a reasonably quick, fairly reliable 90's Turbo Volvo which one would you guys recommend? Any 850 or 70 series turbo from '95 through '98 is going to be quick and reliable. The T5 is the more powerful turbo but the 2.4 turbos build torque quicker. The '98 70 series are nearly identical to the 850, they just have a facelift to the front sheetmetal and interior. If you want a turbo with manual transmission, '98 is the only year to search as that's the only year they were available in the USA, and they're still super rare. Manual swaps are becoming very common, as there were enough N/A manual cars imported to provide the parts. The '99 through '00 models are less reliable than the earlier ones (due to the ETM and a few other updated electronics issues) but not by much. If you want rear wheel drive, I highly recommend the '93 to '95 940 turbos. They are, in my opinion, the most reliable low maintenance Volvo ever made. They're the final years of a 13 year platform so all the bugs were worked out. They're less fun and less moddable than the 850/70 series in my opinion. Sviatoslav posted:I've heard bad things about S70's handling like poo poo, but I've never experienced driving one. That might be a mistake, or maybe you meant the S90 (which was an updated 960 with very soft suspension) because the S70 suspension is pretty much identical in every way to the 850, and they handle great. The S90s/960s don't handle bad, per se, they just aren't very moddable and are set for luxury.
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Apr 15, 2010 18:44
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Sviatoslav posted:Hmmm, I'll have to figure out how to clean that... as I've never done it. Welp, I'm changing my oil this weekend anyway so I'll have to figure this out. It's in this writeup at step 10 http://lakesidedp.com/uploadpics/pcv/ I only learned about this after I redid my whole pcv system when all I would have had to do was clean out that nipple. edit: My 850 handles great. Maybe I'm crazy, but I've driven both 200s and 700s and I much prefer the ride of the 850. The only thing I just can't stand is the terrible turning radius. deratomicdog fucked around with this message at 18:47 on Apr 15, 2010 |
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Apr 15, 2010 18:44
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How reliable is the Volvo AWD system (haldex?) compared to Quattro, X-drive etc. I currently have a bmw wagon (rwd) but since all the new ones are AWD I thought I'd expand my options for future upgrades. Loving wagons really limits my options, it seems. (bmw, volvo, subaru being the most obvious choices - audi/vw can burn in hell)
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Apr 15, 2010 18:48
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As far as I know, the majority of Redblock engines are non-interference, with only the 16v ones being interference. The Haynes manual says otherwise, but experience has led me to believe it's wrong. (I've had a timing belt go on a B230 with no ill effects) Also: Add to the 240 section "Rear taillights circuitboard is made of brittle plastic and will almost certainly break over 20 years - so replace your entire taillight assembly before you start monkeying around with the wire runs." Ether Frenzy fucked around with this message at 21:48 on Apr 15, 2010 |
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Apr 15, 2010 19:01
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When I replaced my PCV system I found out my flame trap was missing entirely. Not sure what the deal with that is.
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Apr 15, 2010 19:02
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LloydDobler posted:
Nope, S70, but you have to consider my source... Turbobricks.... I was told by more than one member there that if I went from my 850 to a S70 it would be like night and day in terms of handling. What do they know, they only concern themselves with cars that are powered by tractor motors. Also, I have to say, Lloyd, you have been an inspiration to me ever since your V70 build thread. Thanks for being so awesome!
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Apr 15, 2010 19:10
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Sviatoslav posted:Nope, S70, but you have to consider my source... Turbobricks.... I was told by more than one member there that if I went from my 850 to a S70 it would be like night and day in terms of handling. You're welcome! That was actually my 4th build thread, so if you want more where that came from you should buy archives and search. 2 of the others are listed in the stickied projects thread. I'd be interested to find out the reasoning for that, but I can't imagine it being correct. I do know that my C70 chassis is identical to the S70 and despite being about 400 lb heavier, I out-handled at least one 850 on one of our local mountain drives last summer.
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Apr 15, 2010 19:58
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TheShedDweller posted:Buddy of mine had this issue with his 83 242 turbo until he replaced one one of the fuel pumps with a walbro unit. I believe it was the inline pump, but it's been a couple years. So if I am doing a '94 B230FT swap (and LH cars of this year only had a single in-tank pump I believe), is it better to replace the pump with a Walbro or go for the same LH setup as the 9 series had that this engine came out of?
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Apr 15, 2010 20:40
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Get the Euro Volvos like the 300- and 400-series into the OP too, and a mention about how Volvo Group/AB Volvo (the big rig/boat/plane group of companies) has been an unrelated company since they sold Volvo Cars to Ford in '99. OP needs more info for seriously-uninformed newcomers, who may not be from AI (we can gateway-drug them with Volvo). My favorite megathread OPs are the ones in Games for a specific title, they usually cover every angle someone could be coming in from. Good start with the model designation explanations. Problems section: the '00-'02 (I think) v70 transmission-killer stop/idle software thing from the old thread. The rest of it I oughta think about for a little while; I'm probably going to do my own important-poo poo scrape on the old thread, I want to save a lot of it for my own "Volvo Archive".
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Apr 15, 2010 20:46
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Splizwarf posted:Get the Euro Volvos like the 300- and 400-series into the OP too, and a mention about how Volvo Group/AB Volvo (the big rig/boat/plane group of companies) has been an unrelated company since they sold Volvo Cars to Ford in '99. OP needs more info for seriously-uninformed newcomers, who may not be from AI (we can gateway-drug them with Volvo). My favorite megathread OPs are the ones in Games for a specific title, they usually cover every angle someone could be coming in from. Good start with the model designation explanations. Also, you got to show some love for the old old Volvos 122 140 544 p1800 (also be sure to mention Irv Gordons 2.6 million mile p1800)
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Apr 15, 2010 21:07
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Ether Frenzy posted:As far as I know, the majority of Redblock engines are non-interference, with only the 16v ones being interference. You're right-the B21/B23/B230 8V redblocks aren't interference. All a timing belt break will do is leave you stranded. As for the other 2-series issues, the main ones are the "biodegradable" wiring harnesses in the pre-'88 models (especially turbos), and the flame trap. Here's my '81 245, which is now back on the road (sort of) after three months of inactivity:  It started out with a B21F running on K-Jet and a 3-speed, and now has an '87 B230F and an AW71, running LH 2.2. The difference in drivability is astonishing. Plans for the future include Megasquirt, a 15G/90+ +T setup, and a T5 swap. Pretty standard stuff, but it should make for a fun DD once all's said and done.
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Apr 15, 2010 21:19
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Important thngs for the megathread: Part Suppliers (IPDUSA, FCPGroton) Transmissions (models, issues, maintenance) Getting the most out of your Volvo (seafoaming, mileage, brakes/suspension) Replacing Filters V70 Issues: Trunk Hatch Fix/Kit Stereo Problems SC900 vs SC901 My Car: 1998 Volvo V70R 129k miles 
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Apr 15, 2010 21:20
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82Daion posted:You're right-the B21/B23/B230 8V redblocks aren't interference. All a timing belt break will do is leave you stranded. As for the other 2-series issues, the main ones are the "biodegradable" wiring harnesses in the pre-'88 models (especially turbos), and the flame trap. You should paint your airdam / front spoiler the same color as your car! It will look awesome.  Glad to see the car (sort of) runs. I'm 95% here with this swap. At this point, it's a matter of waiting until the 19th when my gasket sets come in and doing a full engine rebuild, removing the old engine and the system, putting the accessories onto the new engine, and bolting everything up. At least in theory. 
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Apr 15, 2010 21:23
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Bulk Vanderhuge posted:What year is it? Did it turn over or no? It was an 89, and was turning over. Got a story to share?
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Apr 15, 2010 21:29
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I have a 91 240 SE Wagon with 88k miles on it. I dont know why but I just really love this car. Last summer I was bored and unemployed so I took on the task of overhauling the brakes. Mind you I had never worked on a car before and I decided that fixing the system that probably has the most with keeping me alive was a good idea. It went well and I saved a good amount of money doing it myself. That being said I now have a job and my brick needs new suspension(also getting a fat tax return). I know about Ipd and the cool parts they have on there, and I have seen a lot of good things about lowering these beasts. I am really tempted to spring for their lowered springs, and bilstein shocks and struts. I also like to sound of the anti sway bar. In any case I see people recommending to get the panhard rod and rear torque rods too if youre lowering the car. How important are these? I need to take my car to the shop soon for some regular maintenance and I would like to get this new suspension put on. I can get the springs and shocks now but the rest seems to all be back ordered. Will my car be all hosed up if I lower it and wait a bit on these parts? Does it even sound like I know what im talking about? Feel free to tell me all about lowering your old volvos. Gentle Marmot fucked around with this message at 21:40 on Apr 15, 2010 |
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Apr 15, 2010 21:35
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Must buys for the 240: the IPD anti-roll bar, and Bilstein HD shocks/struts. Your car will love you for these (relatively) minor upgrades. You probably won't need a different panhard rod or rear torque rod unless you're Hellaflush slamming it, an inch or two drop will not need those parts, I don't think. Here's my '83:  Here's my '85. Notice any resemblance? 
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Apr 15, 2010 21:48
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Xovaan posted:You should paint your airdam / front spoiler the same color as your car! It will look awesome. I need to get some paint mixed to do the hood, so I might factor in some extra to paint the airdam. I kind of like the black-bumper look, though. v  vquote:Glad to see the car (sort of) runs. I'm 95% here with this swap. At this point, it's a matter of waiting until the 19th when my gasket sets come in and doing a full engine rebuild, removing the old engine and the system, putting the accessories onto the new engine, and bolting everything up. At least in theory. Doing the mechanical stuff is easy; doing the wiring is the hard part, and even that's relative. If you're doing an LH2.4 swap with EZK, that's fairly well documented, and there should be plenty of people who can help you troubleshoot. My big issues came from getting the fuel pumps to work and getting the timing right, but that all worked itself out once I ditched the Chrysler ignition. You still need a 563 ECU?
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Apr 15, 2010 21:54
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Got one from sbabbs on tbricks otherwise I'd totally snag yours. Wiring for me should be really easy. My only question really is what I should do for the fuel delivery system. What's the best way to deal with fuel pumps if I am to replace them anyway?
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Apr 15, 2010 22:06
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Xovaan posted:Got one from sbabbs on tbricks otherwise I'd totally snag yours. I'm really not sure what I'd recommend. Mine started working again after I swapped back to the original ignition setup that came in my car, so obviously the wiring for the two are tied together, but I'm not exactly sure how. If you're adding the EZK ignition, that's a total gray area for me. My guess is that you'd be fine with the LH2.4 fuel pump in place of the K-Jet main pump.
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Apr 15, 2010 23:02
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 My 1994 940 turbo. Just hit 160k and still going strong, though its not as fast as it used to be and the turbo is probably on its way to shot.
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Apr 15, 2010 23:12
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Just have to throw out some Volvo love... I currently own an 86 240 dl wagon that my parents bought new when I was 4 years old. It does need some work, and currently (for the past 3 years) only gets driven about once every month or two. Oddly enough, I use it for long haul trips (Eugene Oregon to Seattle or San Fran ) but it still gets 30 mpg, original engine and tranny, only had one clutch replacement, has only ever burned out one headlight (though we replaced both) and the center brake light burnt out once. All other marker lights are original 24 year old bulbs. Myself and my brother learned how to drive in this car, and it currently is sitting at 318k miles. Holy poo poo. My work car is a Toyota matrix (2003) and it has a little over 200k on it and is always breaking.
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Apr 16, 2010 09:31
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