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82Daion posted:I need to get some paint mixed to do the hood, so I might factor in some extra to paint the airdam. I kind of like the black-bumper look, though. v I think it would look good with that flat black hood (maybe even get chalkboard paint so you can draw on it?) and hood pins.  Ultimately for my car I wanna get a single-rounds headlight setup and orange or clear tail lamps then paint the airdam silver. But first things first is this engine swap. I'm so close it hurts. 
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Apr 16, 2010 12:17
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I have an 04 VR with 81k, 6MT. I post over at sweedespeed and find it pretty useful, as well as v70r.com. I need to install new rear pads that I have in my garage (got the Monroes with the coupon) and also buy some new front pads and rotors. I'll get the ceramics for the front again but I'm not sure on rotors, I might just get OEM. I don't track it, so why pay extra for vents or slots. I'm also chasing down a cabin leak somewhere that's draining into the passenger footwell. It's not the sunroof vents and I just had the windsheild replaced so I'm waiting for another big rainstorm to see if it's fixed.
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Apr 16, 2010 16:34
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I've caught wind of a 1989 Volvo 240DL for $800. Stick shift, reasonably rust free. What kind of easy performance could I get out of one of these? They look great but the 114hp would be a pain on my commute.
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Apr 16, 2010 17:02
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I'll show my DD Volvo and tell its story in another post but right now I have more pressing issues. It's an 89 240 5 speed manual (M47). Yesterday the girlfriend was driving it home when the clutch pedal just dropped to the floor. She said it felt like a cable snapping (for what that's worth). The clutch pedal will lift up easily but returns to the floor when let go. It will shift into gear with the car turned off but I couldn't get it in gear with it running. I am looking for advice on what the likely culprits are and where to look and what to do first. Any ideas?
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Apr 16, 2010 17:26
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If it was the clutch and it felt like a cable snapping, it was probably the clutch cable.  I don't believe 240s are hydraulic clutch, but I could be wrong.Get under the car and see if you can find the clutch release arm. It might help if someone pushes the clutch pedal while you're under there so you can see it moving. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 17:31 on Apr 16, 2010 |
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Apr 16, 2010 17:29
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Seat Safety Switch posted:If it was the clutch and it felt like a cable snapping, it was probably the clutch cable. I think you're right, the only hydraulic clutch 240s I remember were the V6 manual models.
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Apr 16, 2010 18:02
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8ender posted:I've caught wind of a 1989 Volvo 240DL for $800. Stick shift, reasonably rust free. What kind of easy performance could I get out of one of these? They look great but the 114hp would be a pain on my commute. It won't be fast, but they have reasonably high torque so 0-30mph isn't anywhere near as slow as the hp rating might lead you to believe. With a couple suspension/unsprung weight changes (IPD anti-sway bar, Bilstein HD shocks/struts, and some lighter 15 or 16" wheels with a stiffer sidewall tire) you can get a pretty fun daily driver that turns on a dime, is no worries to park anywhere and isn't going to get you any speeding tickets. 20 mpg would be a pretty average result if you do a mix of freeway/surface driving. Parts also fit a huge variety of cars across about 16 years of engines/interiors so you can do a custom setup relatively easily (flathoods, dual/single headlights, stuff like that.)
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Apr 16, 2010 19:05
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This might be a weird question, but do the headlight wipers on a Volvo do anything. I've never seen them move.
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Apr 17, 2010 01:13
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sbaldrick posted:This might be a weird question, but do the headlight wipers on a Volvo do anything. I've never seen them move. Once I saw lines in the dirt that indicated they magically moved at some point at least a few days prior, but I couldn't figure out how it happened. I always assumed they were broken.
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Apr 17, 2010 01:15
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sbaldrick posted:This might be a weird question, but do the headlight wipers on a Volvo do anything. I've never seen them move. They work with the windshield washers-when you activate them, they spray some washer fluid on the headlight lenses and wipe for the same duration as the windshield wipers. At least that's how they work on my 850. After sitting for a week, there were no major puddles under my 240, and it turned right over, so it seems that the progress I made last weekend is holding up. I'm going to have to spend a lot of time cleaning up the wiring this weekend, though. SUSE Creamcheese fucked around with this message at 03:52 on Apr 17, 2010 |
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Apr 17, 2010 01:18
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sbaldrick posted:This might be a weird question, but do the headlight wipers on a Volvo do anything. I've never seen them move. I use mine to knock off snow.... but they are need to be refitted, because they've never been able to actually touch the headlamp. There are a lot of things on my car that don't quite fit the way they should which has me concerned (previous owners gave no love to the car). I know there is hosing on the wipers that are theoretically there for dispensing washing fluid, but I've never seen it personally.
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Apr 17, 2010 01:30
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Seat Safety Switch posted:If it was the clutch and it felt like a cable snapping, it was probably the clutch cable. Sure enough the cable had snapped. I'm picking up the new cable tomorrow. Anyone done this before? One thing I am concerned about is the manual refers to a rubber stopper and washer assembly that the cable nipple seats into:  Click here for the full 608x661 image.  The existing stopper was a ball of sticky goo that resembled butyl and there was no washer to be seen. I have no idea where to get one of these so I may have to try and fabricate one out of something else. The return spring is missing too but I guess I can get from ipd.
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Apr 18, 2010 03:21
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It would really surprise me if you can't buy that from the dealer, it's at least worth a check. It's also possible it will come with the cable assembly. I'd call these guys and see if they can get it. They do have your return spring there for $2.99. http://www.fcpgroton.com/category-e...1116/by_year/39
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Apr 18, 2010 05:26
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 Goddammit sell me these right now!  Waiting for a reply email.
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Apr 18, 2010 21:24
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I mentioned this car briefly in the last thread. It's kind of my "project" car of sorts, meaning I'm trying to keep it out of a junkyard for a while longer and hopefully learning a thing or two about body & electrical repair along the way. Front passenger fender will be replaced, along with three of the doors.  This is probably the most troubling area, you can see some of the worst of it on the inner fender.  Someday you'll be on the road again....  1982 244 Turbo, 204K miles and the wiring is a mess. I don't care though, it is my first project car and I love it.
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Apr 18, 2010 23:48
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I just did a water pump on my wifes b230f. From what I understand you don't need to bleed the coolant system at all if the thermostat is installed correctly?
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Apr 19, 2010 00:21
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Goddamn gently caress you 855 tailgate rattle. gently caress you so hard.
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Apr 19, 2010 01:21
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as halfway crooks posted:Goddamn gently caress you 855 tailgate rattle. gently caress you so hard. http://www.ipdusa.com/version.asp?strPageHistory=category&numSearchStartRecord=0&strParents=128,370,498&P_ID=212&CAT_ID=498&V_ID=629 I believe that is what you are looking for.
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Apr 19, 2010 01:26
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Sviatoslav posted:http://www.ipdusa.com/version.asp?strPageHistory=category&numSearchStartRecord=0&strParents=128,370,498&P_ID=212&CAT_ID=498&V_ID=629 I wish, the rivets on the tailgate lock itself have loosened and cause the lock mechanism (and thus the whole tailgate) to rattle back and forth 1mm or so. The kicker is that it's a $140ish part. Gonna hit a couple scrapyards tomorrow and see what I can dig up.
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Apr 19, 2010 01:33
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Also drat guys watch this video it seriously owns so hard: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8UPqjAN3-C8
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Apr 19, 2010 01:34
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as halfway crooks posted:I wish, the rivets on the tailgate lock itself have loosened and cause the lock mechanism (and thus the whole tailgate) to rattle back and forth 1mm or so. The kicker is that it's a $140ish part. Gonna hit a couple scrapyards tomorrow and see what I can dig up. Well if you can't find anything in the junk yard check out a place called erie vovo... its a huge Volvo junk yard in New York, they have cheap parts (I want to say free shipping, but I think that's just the engines or something) Their website is a pain in the rear end, but if you can find your way through the site its alright. I know around here a Volvo in a junkyard is kind of unseen.... every once and a while one appears. It really sucks for fixing your car on the cheap. This week its the o2 sensor, soldering the ABS, and getting my cooling fan working again. Then I need to do change the oil and my wheel barrings in the front. It needs some tlc but I did just drive 3 hours straight and put a total of 500 miles on it this weekend and its still so comfortable I could drive some more. It more than deserves my attention now.
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Apr 19, 2010 01:43
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as halfway crooks posted:I wish, the rivets on the tailgate lock itself have loosened and cause the lock mechanism (and thus the whole tailgate) to rattle back and forth 1mm or so. The kicker is that it's a $140ish part. Gonna hit a couple scrapyards tomorrow and see what I can dig up. Can you drill the rivets out and replace 'em with new rivets or bolts? Got a picture? Sviatoslav posted:I know around here a Volvo in a junkyard is kind of unseen.... every once and a while one appears. It really sucks for fixing your car on the cheap. My junkyard offer from the last thread is still open. We have two local yards with at least 30 Volvos, mostly 2/7/8/900 with a few late '90s v70s, a v40 and an early '00s v70. Anything you want, post it. I'll try to find it and it's yours for cost and shipping. You do take on the same risk as if you were in a junkyard with no middleman, ie I'll do my best to verify the item is intact and functional, but if you want a computer component, welp, I can verify that it looks good on the outside. I get a kick out of figuring out how to correctly disassemble stuff and I need more reasons to do it (and I always find things I need while I'm in there), plus I like helping out Volvo people. Sir Tonk is probably my best reference for this.
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Apr 19, 2010 05:49
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Just as a heads-up, I'm going to be incorporating some more information into the OP sometime this week. If someone wants to write up a short "models to buy/models to buy, with reservations/models to avoid" guide or make suggestions as to its contents, I'll throw that in there with the other updates. My 960 is probably going to get a stablemate here in the next week or so as well. 
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Apr 19, 2010 06:05
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I was gonna ask -- how many Volvos follow the number of doors rule for the last number? Didn't they stop doing that well before the end of the 240?
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Apr 19, 2010 06:08
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Splizwarf posted:Can you drill the rivets out and replace 'em with new rivets or bolts? Got a picture? If you ever happen to see a 740 with a blue plastic interior, I could use a few misc trim pieces. Just thought I'd throw it out there. If you get those books off craigslist, scan em! I don't think there is a good set of 740 greenbooks scanned yet.
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Apr 19, 2010 06:51
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kimbo305 posted:I was gonna ask -- how many Volvos follow the number of doors rule for the last number? Didn't they stop doing that well before the end of the 240? Ya, in around 1983 when they introduced the 700 series, they didn't use the door number on the car, and broke convention on the cylinder number as well. They had the 740, the 740 turbo, the 760 turbo which had a 4 banger, and the 760 with a V6. I know by 1986 they stopped on the 240s as well but I can't remember if that was the first year or not.
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Apr 19, 2010 07:01
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Money Walrus posted:If you ever happen to see a 740 with a blue plastic interior, I could use a few misc trim pieces. Just thought I'd throw it out there. Which pieces, what year, wagon or sedan? There's at least one blue interior early 740 sedan. Money Walrus posted:If you get those books off craigslist, scan em! I don't think there is a good set of 740 greenbooks scanned yet. Goddamned right I will. 
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Apr 19, 2010 08:23
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Splizwarf, if there's a 940 sedan there with a black interior, I need the kick panel that rests under the passenger side dash in front of the door.
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Apr 19, 2010 09:44
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Splizwarf posted:Can you drill the rivets out and replace 'em with new rivets or bolts? Got a picture? drat, well I'm going to need a radiator fan or a fan relay here in the next few days.... I'll be finding out which one tonight.... also I may need another ABS module because tonight I'm taking mine apart and attempting to resolder it, and if I gently caress up I'll be wanting a new one. I'll try my luck around here but if nothing comes up then I might take you up on your offer.
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Apr 19, 2010 15:42
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drat it...someone drove into me and broke one of the headlights.
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Apr 19, 2010 15:43
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Sviatoslav posted:drat, well I'm going to need a radiator fan or a fan relay here in the next few days.... I'll be finding out which one tonight.... also I may need another ABS module because tonight I'm taking mine apart and attempting to resolder it, and if I gently caress up I'll be wanting a new one. There's a guy on the Volvospeed forums that'll resolder it for you for $40 shipped, forums name "Mattymoo". He owns.
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Apr 19, 2010 17:19
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as halfway crooks posted:There's a guy on the Volvospeed forums that'll resolder it for you for $40 shipped, forums name "Mattymoo". He owns. Will he give me credit in my electronics class too? I agree Mattymoo owns, but I'll try my luck. Whats the worst that happens? I don't have ABS. IN THE SUMMER!!!!!! Oh god how will I live!?!?!?! Just fine most likely so I see nothing wrong in using that chunk of plastic and silicone to prove I can solder and most likely I'll fix it... I've soldered before, many times... I'm pretty sure I can do this, and if not I don't care (but I will be full of personal sadness and a new sense of humility)
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Apr 19, 2010 17:53
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Anyone in Europe looking to buy a Volvo with the D5 engine in a model year '03 and before (S60, S80 & XC90) then check to see if the injectors have been replaced. If they haven't - don't buy the car. The Bosch injectors are a big problem on the older versions of these engines.
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Apr 19, 2010 21:31
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What caulking / silicone / whatever will I need to install the IPD oil pan and head gasket complete kits on a B230FT?
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Apr 19, 2010 22:00
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Some people use RTV for the valve cover gasket, I just put a little in the corners of the #1 cam bearing. Some use copper spray for the headgasket, I don't. The intake and exhaust manifold gaskets are installed dry, and the oil pan should be installed dry as well. If you have clean, flat surfaces (make sure your head is flat) you really shouldn't need anything besides a bit of vasoline to push the oil seals in and perhaps some RTV for the valve cover gasket corners where it goes over the first bearing cap.
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Apr 19, 2010 23:20
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Mission successful: Greenbooks acquired. The great scan project begins as soon as the semester ends in early May. If anyone wants anything out of them beforehand, say something. Craigslist never works out for me. I feel like a million loving bucks.   
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Apr 20, 2010 05:37
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So far I've learned that you can fix the ABS module on the 850 with ease if you aren't a little bitch about it, like I was at the beginning. After a while I was just thought "gently caress it, if it breaks I'll buy a new one" and broke some plastic, but got the thing apart. It will all cover up with glue later from what I've seen in pictures on Matt's Volvo Site.
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Apr 20, 2010 06:11
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Splizwarf posted:Mission successful: Greenbooks acquired. The great scan project begins as soon as the semester ends in early May. If anyone wants anything out of them beforehand, say something. Dude, that's awesome. If you need help scanning, I bet some of us could pitch in. Oh, and for your junkyard run: I have a 1992 740 sedan, and I could use the door pull surround (sits in the door pull, surrounds the window switches) in blue plastic, I need a 1992 style window regulator and motor, the short black plastic trim piece that sits on the driver's fender, the shiftlock microswitch from inside the auto shifter boot, the mirror glass from the passenger side mirror. A 1992 style decor panel (fits between the rear taillights) would be cool. Also, if you ever see a bodykit on a 740 that looks like it is right out of the 1980s (you will know when you see it) let me know. Defiantly be willing to pay for all that if you ever come across it. The 740s in the New Orleans junkyard are always the old style. I never get any 92 sedans.
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Apr 20, 2010 07:30
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Are any of you located in Northern California? I've had a drastic reduction in income in the past few months and I'm at the point of selling the car I'm currently making payments on if things don't turn around soon. Depending on the price I get for it I'll have $2000-$3000 to get something else. I'm mechanically-minded enough that with a Haynes guide, the internet, and a couple pointers from my dad I can work on a car but I know next to nothing about buying a used car, let alone a Volvo. I'm looking for someone in the area that knows used Volvos, what to ask about, what to check, and how to check it. I would compensate you for your time of course, but I figure if paying a goon for their knowledge avoids even one major repair I'll be ahead on money.
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Apr 20, 2010 16:19
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Sviatoslav posted:So far I've learned that you can fix the ABS module on the 850 with ease if you aren't a little bitch about it, like I was at the beginning. After a while I was just thought "gently caress it, if it breaks I'll buy a new one" and broke some plastic, but got the thing apart. It will all cover up with glue later from what I've seen in pictures on Matt's Volvo Site. Test it before gluing it back together. I tried to do the fix myself, but it didn't work. I went back and redid the soldering like 3 times. I sent the same unit to a professional and he got it working, and resealed it nice too. That was $40 from eBay, it's still working good a year later.
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Apr 20, 2010 16:49
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