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LloydDobler posted:Fucker. Done.
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May 4, 2010 11:17
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Dang I didn't mean to sound that cranky when I wrote that. Splizwarf: Just change the bulb out sensor, you're asking why it does one thing and not another when none of us really understand how the thing works. Don't use logic, just try it. You have two of the same car, you don't even need to make the trip to the junkyard. Swap relays and see if symptoms follow.
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May 4, 2010 14:15
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So I am told I need a new ac compressor, and was quoted 800 bucks. How hard is this to do on an 850? I've never worked on an ac system before.
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May 4, 2010 15:04
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deratomicdog posted:So I am told I need a new ac compressor, and was quoted 800 bucks. How hard is this to do on an 850? I've never worked on an ac system before. It's $800 hard. That said, if you gave me $800 I'd do it for you, so yeah it'll be worth it to do yourself. But it's kind of in a bitch of a place and I'm not sure if anything like the radiator needs to come out. If nothing comes out it's just a matter of removing the belt, unplugging the wire, removing 2 hoses (2 bolts) and removing the compressor (4 bolts). If your A/C system has been exposed to atmosphere for any length of time, you definitely want to replace the receiver/dryer canister too, unfortunately. They're an additional $80 or so wholesale. If nobody else chimes in I'll look it up tonight and see if Volvo recommends removing anything to do the job. (lift engine, remove front mount, power steering rack, subframe, etc)
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May 4, 2010 15:29
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Okay, I looked at the haynes manual, it's saying that I need to remove the radiator and I assume the intercooler. It doesn't look toooo hard. Is this one of those things where I'm going to need oem parts or is a remanned one ok?
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May 4, 2010 17:36
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I don't know how good the remanned ones are. You'll want to pull the radiator, intercooler, and a/c condenser all as one stack. Since you have to crack the a/c system anyway, that'll make the whole job a lot easier. If it still has any freon in the system I would take the car to a shop and have them evacuate it, you should get some money back for it, which can be put towards recharging costs.
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May 4, 2010 18:50
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LloydDobler posted:Dang I didn't mean to sound that cranky when I wrote that. You don't understand, my wife keeps driving one of them all the loving time, and when she's home it's dark and scary out.  She broke the gas door off of mine yesterday.  My plan for today was to verify my connections, then jump the wires on each end of the sensor and see if the bulbs light up with the sensor out of the loop. I'm trying to approach this like I would a situation where I don't have another component readily available; partly because it's helping me to remember & relearn my electrical diagnosis skills, and partly because the Automotive teacher I respect the most constantly gives me a raft of poo poo about how just swapping in a new one and seeing if it works is the least edit: Welp, I'm a dipshit. The greenbook I've been working out of, unlike most of the others, is 760-only. There is no rear sensor, the thing I thought it could be runs to the gas tank. Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 20:10 on May 4, 2010 |
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May 4, 2010 19:03
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OK, this 940 is just a bundle of headaches. Here's how the coolant tank ended up looking when I topped up the coolant a couple days back: Click here for the full 1024x768 image. I think I've either got a bad head gasket or radiator (due to the integrated transmission cooler.) Here's the list of symptoms: -Thin coat of blackish sludge on the sides of the coolant overflow tank -No milky buildup on the oil cap/dipstick or around the cam, so far as I can see through the oil cap hole -No milky buildup on the transmission dipstick -Transmission wants to hold gears for a long time and shifts hard -Coolant level will drop from the MAX line to the MIN line within a day I'm leaning towards the radiator at this point. I'm probably going to drain the coolant, change the oil, and clean out the overflow tank this weekend and see if it all returns before I do anything really expensive. Thoughts?
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May 4, 2010 20:42
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Splizwarf posted:light problems Well, if you really want to make it difficult for yourself, you could pop the cover off the bulb failure relay and bypass the coils and wire directly to the pins. I guess you could do this non-destructively but it would probably be easier to just gut the thing and solder in jumper wires. Inside the relay are some glass reed switches wrapped with enameled wire. The wires are in series with the power from the brake light pedal switch. As I recall, the logic there is that if both bulbs on either side of the car go on, the current draw between them will/should be equal, putting the reed in the middle of the glass envelope. If the draw isn't even, the reed switch will close and turn on the brake failure light. If you were to bypass all the junk in there, you would essentially have a blanking plug that would complete the circuit. Worst case scenario, you pick one up for a buck next time you go to the junkyard, but it would eliminate the failure relay as a point of failure. pants in my pants fucked around with this message at 01:23 on May 5, 2010 |
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May 4, 2010 23:20
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Splizwarf posted:1998 v70 Owner's Manual: Thanks!
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May 5, 2010 01:08
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TheJeffers posted:OK, this 940 is just a bundle of headaches. Here's how the coolant tank ended up looking when I topped up the coolant a couple days back: Normally my thoughts would be radiator, since it's possible for the cooler to fail, but since you are losing coolant, you have one of two situations: 1) A coolant leak AND a bad integrated tranny cooler 2) A blown headgasket What I would do: Compression test Drain coolant, look at it Drain oil, look at it Watch smoke out of tailpipe (signs of blown HG) If you determine it's a blown gasket, it's really an easy and cheap job if you do it yourself. The hardest part is getting rusted exhaust manifold bolts off. You could do it in a weekend with 100 bucks in parts and some beer. You can reuse the headbolts, all you need is the upper gasket set and some new exhaust nuts. If the compression test looks good, and there is no coolant in the oil, and yet sludge in the coolant, I would drain and flush the coolant system, find your leak, (replace the radiator if that is indeed the problem), flush the ATF, and you should be good to go.
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May 5, 2010 01:41
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Hey, guess what? It was the big red Bulb Out sensor on the relay block.  Brake lights are fine now.In other news, it turns out the PO bypassed the neutral safety switch badly, and some other fun poo poo. Long story short, I have reverse lights now too!
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May 5, 2010 03:16
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PREVIOUS OWNERS 
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May 5, 2010 10:16
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2005 XC90 with 2.5T 5 cylinder... I got lazy with an oil change and didn't change the oil filter cartridge gasket and I've got a slight leak. Can I just pull the cartridge again and replace the gasket without a full oil drain?
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May 5, 2010 15:19
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EVERYWHERE 
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Well, I'd have the oil on hand and a large pan underneath the filter just in case, but I think so. The oil is mostly below the filter on these engines.
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May 5, 2010 15:40
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LloydDobler posted:Well, I'd have the oil on hand and a large pan underneath the filter just in case, but I think so. The oil is mostly below the filter on these engines. Yup, that was my plan... I was just hoping I wasn't going to have 5 quarts siphoning out of the sump or something crazy like that.
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May 5, 2010 15:45
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I went ahead and changed the oil in the 940 tonight. It was coffee-colored and drained freely, so I think I can rule out the head gasket. I'm going to change the coolant tomorrow and go from there.
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May 8, 2010 04:43
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deratomicdog posted:So I am told I need a new ac compressor, and was quoted 800 bucks. How hard is this to do on an 850? I've never worked on an ac system before. Buying a rebuilt one myself (160 on eBay) and getting it installed was 500 total, and I'm sure you could get cheaper labor then I did. Spending twice that much to put a brand new one in a car filled with ancient everything and crumbling electronics didn't make a lot of sense, especially given that the entire AC system is known for being prone to annoying issues like evap core rot. The rebuilt one looked new and works great. 500 dollars got me a nice ride with AC for at least one summer and that's what I wanted, but the system is leaking from somewhere, and it remains to be seen how fast exactly... From what I read, compressors are tough to replace in 850s and you probably need to drain and charge it properly before and after. I couldn't even find the it in my Haynes guide. NOTinuyasha fucked around with this message at 15:16 on May 8, 2010 |
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May 8, 2010 15:13
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I now know what it feels like to kill a 240.  (I junked my 242 parts car today)
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May 9, 2010 07:02
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Aww, well, at least it's in a Volvo's natural habitat now. It's better off that way.
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May 9, 2010 08:18
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82Daion posted:I now know what it feels like to kill a 240. If it helps, you're car will become a very successful organ donor and save many more 240s.
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May 9, 2010 18:19
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Someone please buy this before I buy a plane ticket out to Denver: http://denver.craigslist.org/ctd/1711095480.html
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May 10, 2010 00:20
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That seems like a butt load of money even with the mileage and third row.
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May 10, 2010 00:40
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OK, after busting my rear end all weekend to confirm that there's no intermixing of fluids happening between the oil/ATF/coolant, I'm also noticing that I'm getting bubbling/boiling in the coolant overflow tank after normal driving. Based on this, I'm guessing it's time to replace the head gasket, but I'm too tired/frustrated to think straight. If anyone wants to confirm/deny, I'd appreciate it.
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May 10, 2010 04:44
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TheJeffers posted:OK, after busting my rear end all weekend to confirm that there's no intermixing of fluids happening between the oil/ATF/coolant, I'm also noticing that I'm getting bubbling/boiling in the coolant overflow tank after normal driving. Based on this, I'm guessing it's time to replace the head gasket, but I'm too tired/frustrated to think straight. If anyone wants to confirm/deny, I'd appreciate it. Before you do that, replace your coolant reservoir cap. A pressure leak in it can cause overboiling after the water pump stops. It's a common failure and they're not expensive to replace.
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May 10, 2010 05:48
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sbaldrick posted:That seems like a butt load of money even with the mileage and third row. Is the third row seat a real draw for people? I prefer to remove it so I can fit a full-sized spare and keep a handful of tools and useful stuff in the hidden hatch area. TheJeffers posted:OK, after busting my rear end all weekend to confirm that there's no intermixing of fluids happening between the oil/ATF/coolant, I'm also noticing that I'm getting bubbling/boiling in the coolant overflow tank after normal driving. Based on this, I'm guessing it's time to replace the head gasket, but I'm too tired/frustrated to think straight. If anyone wants to confirm/deny, I'd appreciate it. poo poo, one of mine did this the other day, didn't realize it could be a headgasket problem. I thought the headgasket symptom list was 1. Blown between two cylinders: compression loss in those two cylinders 2. Blown between a cylinder and an oil passage: oil loss, possibly compression loss in that cylinder 3. Blown between cylinder and a coolant passage: coolant loss, possible compression loss in that cylinder 4: Blown between a coolant passage and an oil passage: black poo poo in the coolant or oil that may be milky or will bubble (boil) when dripped onto a hot exhaust manifold 5: Blown to the outside from a cylinder, oil passage, or coolant passage: loss of relevant fluid or compression loss; feelable air movement (cylinder) or visible fluid Mine was in the driveway and had been running for about 5 minutes with the hood open; I chalked it up to the thermostat having opened recently before I shut the engine off and the reservoir filled up (from about half full) and overflowed over the next minute or so, losing maybe 1/2 a cup of coolant. I guess if the headgasket was blown between a cylinder and a coolant passage, you could get a lot of air into the coolant system? It just seems weird that it would be a problem after driving rather than during. e: LloydDobler posted:A pressure leak in it can cause overboiling after the water pump stops. Oh. Tell me more about how this works.
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May 10, 2010 05:52
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I've noticed my coolant bubbling once or twice after hard driving, uh-oh? edit: yeah it's expensive, but low-mileage saffron, pay to play brah.
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May 10, 2010 05:54
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sbaldrick posted:That seems like a butt load of money even with the mileage and third row. not to mention the awesome gold color 
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May 10, 2010 08:46
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Splizwarf posted:Oh. Tell me more about how this works.  As anyone who passed high school chemistry should know, raising the pressure of a fluid even a couple PSI can raise its boiling point several degrees. The coolant systems in our Volvos are designed to run above atmospheric pressure somewhere from 5 to 12 psi when hot. The green cap for example is set at 1.5 bar (approx. 8 psi above ambient) which raises the boiling point of water to 233°F. The expansion tank cap is where the pressure relief valve is, and if it can't hold system pressure, the coolant will bubble and boil off due to the high amount of heat still held in the engine, and lack of circulation when shut off. I'm not saying it's not a head gasket, just saying it's a common failure and cheap to test. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 23:34 on May 10, 2010 |
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May 10, 2010 19:58
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As I understand it, the third row ads a grand to the price straight up in general. I like the crazy gold colour more then the yellow everyone loves on the TR-5. But yeah, even in Canada it's about 5 grand over book value.
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May 10, 2010 21:34
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Shredded the timing belt on my 240 today in the midst of rush-hour traffic, 60 miles from home. I never checked it before installing the engine, but if I had, I would have caught that something was up. It was an ancient one, judging by how desiccated the remains were, and how easy it was to just pop the teeth off. 
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May 10, 2010 21:44
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OK, here's some more information on my 940, since I had the chance to look at the car with a clear head this evening. The tank isn't bubbling immediately after starting the car, and I can't smell exhaust wafting up from the orifice, so I'm betting that it's boiling, and only then after the car gets up to operating temperature. After I shut off the car, I can feel the fluid boiling in the coolant hose that runs from the radiator to the turbo, but not in the upper or lower radiator hoses. I swapped the coolant tank cap for a black 75KPa one we had lying around, which didn't appear to make any difference (although it's certainly within the realm of possibility that it's bad too.) In any case, I have a new cap and tank on the way. I'm just running the standard Prestone 50/50 that you can get anywhere–should I be looking into something different?
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May 10, 2010 23:53
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How much does the rear main seal cost to repair, and what are the symptoms? Leaking?
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May 11, 2010 01:30
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TheJeffers posted:I swapped the coolant tank cap for a black 75KPa one we had lying around, which didn't appear to make any difference (although it's certainly within the realm of possibility that it's bad too.) In any case, I have a new cap and tank on the way. 75kpa is below atmospheric pressure, that car should have a 150Kpa cap and IF that's the cause, it would behave exactly the same. Sorry to keep ragging on this subject but I don't think you've ruled out the coolant cap. Best Friend posted:How much does the rear main seal cost to repair, and what are the symptoms? Leaking? Yes, an oil leak from the joint between the engine and transmission is the symptom of a rear main seal leak. If you pay a shop to do it the cost will be in the $600-$800 range, it's a lot of labor. It's only $12 or so if you do it yourself, although there are other things you'll want to replace while you're in there. What year/make/engine car is it?
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May 11, 2010 03:39
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LloydDobler posted:Prestone is fine. 1994 850 Turbo. I don't have the problem yet but I want to be prepared as possible. Anybody got a good step-by-step? According to the history report it also has an open heat shield recall. Machine Gun fucked around with this message at 07:05 on May 11, 2010 |
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May 11, 2010 07:00
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I couldn't find a writeup but there is probably one on swedespeed somewhere. The problem is generally caused by an unmaintained pcv system. Make sure you clean that out when you're supposed to and you'll most likely be fine.
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May 11, 2010 11:46
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Best Friend posted:1994 850 Turbo. I don't have the problem yet but I want to be prepared as possible. Anybody got a good step-by-step? What's your skill level? You have to remove the transmission, so if you don't already have an idea of what that entails it might be over your head to tackle. Not the easiest step by step procedure. But deratomicdog is right, maintain the PVC system (which is $125 in parts and a lot less/much easier labor) and you shouldn't have the seal problem.
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May 11, 2010 22:59
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Though the pcv system is a pain in the rear end too. Good luck!
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May 12, 2010 10:35
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Splizwarf posted:Is the third row seat a real draw for people? I prefer to remove it so I can fit a full-sized spare and keep a handful of tools and useful stuff in the hidden hatch area. I love a third row. I had a giant Caprice wagon with a gunner's seat. Total party wagon. My most recent purchase - the wagon - the PO was supposed to install and additional third row for fifty USD but failed to do so (PayPal had my back). I won't be the party back the Caprice was but some of our friends are tiny girls.
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May 12, 2010 13:49
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Oh hello there... Yesterday I noticed cracks emerging in my coolant reservoir. So I took a really lovely photo of them....  Anyone with relevant experience that can tell me how serious this might be and if it will degrade considerably? I'm mainly concerned because I'm scheduled on a cross-country road trip next week... e: I'm poking around for a vendor in case I have to replace it. Anyone have experience with http://swedishautoparts.com? The Mantis fucked around with this message at 17:39 on May 12, 2010 |
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May 12, 2010 17:26
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