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always be closing posted:01 v70, rear brake light relay is sticking, so when I park the car I have to pop the hatch and tap on the relay so my battery doesnt die =p. I think 30765030 is Volvo p/n for the relay with resistor, and 8651661 is without. angryrobots fucked around with this message at 05:50 on Apr 29, 2020 |
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Apr 29, 2020 05:47
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angryrobots posted:I think 30765030 is Volvo p/n for the relay with resistor, and 8651661 is without. Great, thank you. I had managed to find the relays without and ordered 2, might use that for a few days till the right one comes in. Look at this beauty. I've got a nice little story to tell about the vvt solenoid I was posting about last year. 
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Apr 29, 2020 13:09
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Volvo Question - How often is the timing belt supposed to be replaced? I'm going through adverts on adverts and seeing a pretty wide range of "What's a timing belt? to "Timing belt replaced five minutes ago!" If my memory serves, the belts are one of the things that need regular work on Volvos.
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Apr 30, 2020 23:05
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On redblocks, it's every 50k or so, but it's cheap and relatively easy. You can do the tensioner bearing every other belt, and seals every other or even third. Also it's non interference so you can push it fairly risk free. I can generally swap one of these belts in 45 minutes. On whiteblocks it depends on generation, and it's critical that it be done on time and with all bearings at the same time. Early were 70k, middle were 110k, and late are 125k. It's a 2-3 hour job depending on if you change the water pump or not, which I do every time.
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May 1, 2020 00:35
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Can you tell me a little about what a "white block" and "red block" indicate? I'm seeing some ads saying, "Timing Belt replaced at 130k!!!" but the odometer says 190k+. I'm guess I should avoid those?
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May 1, 2020 01:35
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Redblocks are the iron block 4 cylinder RWD cars like you're looking for. The engine is painted red. Whiteblocks are aluminum and the engine is unpainted, mostly in FWD volvos 93 and newer. The only RWD whiteblock is the 91-98 960/S90/V90. No, don't avoid a car just because the timing belt needs to be done, just haggle.
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May 1, 2020 11:06
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So I've got a power steering leak on the P2 XC90. I can see where it's wet but it's close to where the pressure pipes connect under the engine on the driver's side. I'm looking at the VIDA instructions and they involve removing the subframe and driveshaft and my eyes are boggling a bit. Looks like I can see in there a little behind the wheel, any better options? This might end up being the time to refresh the front end suspension. taqueso fucked around with this message at 19:05 on May 2, 2020 |
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May 2, 2020 18:43
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When they do it on a lift, you just suspend the engine and drop the rear of the subframe and slip the rack out. If you're going to tackle it, use an engine support bar. If you don't have one, get one. https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html You can still do the job the same way without a lift, but you'll be on your back. You shouldn't have to remove any of the drivetrain parts. Maybe I'm wrong but I've removed the whole subframe while hanging the engine, and it didn't involve driveshafts. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 22:52 on May 2, 2020 |
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May 2, 2020 22:50
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Captain Log posted:Can you tell me a little about what a "white block" and "red block" indicate? Timing belt isn't really that big of a deal with the redblock engines. Most redblock engines are non-interference. If the timing belt breaks then the pistons don't collide with the valves. The most that really happens is you have a dead engine until you replace the timing belt. The exception to this is redblock engines with 16 valve heads. Those are comparatively rare and were only introduced towards the end of the redblock's run but they are interference.
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May 3, 2020 02:09
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Swedish tuning company BSR really likes the T2 engine.
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May 3, 2020 20:25
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When did Ford take over Volvo? Most of the cars that aren't obvious money pits are in the 94-04 year range. But there seems to be a distinct difference at some point between "looks like a nice, old school, blocky, Volvo" and "looks like every other car with a Volvo emblem on it." I'm guessing the change happens when Ford (or whoever) bought them? I'm frustrated,. There was a $1700 96' wagon that looked perfect. But it sold before I could go see it today. Last week there was an 87 740 GLE (the exact model I had in high school) for $1400 that sold before I could see it. Most of these cars are listed for weeks, right up until I try to buy it. The more I look, the more I'm willing to pay for a car. But I still think a cheap diamond in the rough is hiding somewhere.
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May 3, 2020 22:46
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They were bought in 1999, you can tell pretty easily as the handles immediately changed to the cheaper ford ones and they discontinued all RWD cars right around the buyout.
Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 01:10 on May 4, 2020 |
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May 4, 2020 01:08
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Autoexec.bat posted:They were bought in 1999, you can tell pretty easily as the handles immediately changed to the cheaper ford ones and they discontinued all RWD cars right around the buyout. It's a shame, because I wouldn't mind a car that's a little less ancient. But gently caress, some of them just look like Fords with a hood bump.
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May 4, 2020 03:18
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Autoexec.bat posted:they discontinued all RWD cars right around the buyout. To be fair, Volvo were pretty well set on all FWD even before Ford rolled in. Only the rather old 900 series still hanging around, and it's not like they would have kept that platform going much longer.
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May 4, 2020 12:36
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Yeah that's true, but it's still a good marker for roughly when the buyout was.
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May 4, 2020 12:46
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Yesterday I did one of the least fun mechanic jobs I have ever had the displeasure to do, replacing the EGR valve on my dad's 2011 V50 2.0D. That goddamned hex-key bolt on the underside (bolting it to some bracket). After trying a few other means to get to it, I eventually solved it by cutting down a 5mm key, taping it to a piece of string (so it wouldn't get lost when I dropped it), and then spending about half an hour of utter frustration to turn the bolt about half a turn which was enough to get it off the slot in the bracket. I refuse to retighten it, the remaining bolts holding it in place will just have to suffice. There's a hex bit lost somewhere in the engine bay, I dropped it and it just didn't come out the bottom. gently caress EGR, gently caress diesels, gently caress French engines, and gently caress modern FWD engine bays in general. Now I just need the alternator parts to arrive so I can fix that stuff and maybe not have to see the inside of this engine bay for a while.
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May 4, 2020 12:52
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Did the Ford thing do much to the designs? The design* of my 2004 seems better than a similar age Ford and almost all the parts are European origin. * From the perspective of working on the car
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May 4, 2020 16:33
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taqueso posted:Did the Ford thing do much to the designs? The design* of my 2004 seems better than a similar age Ford and almost all the parts are European origin. It's a Mondeo underneath, no?
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May 4, 2020 16:38
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madeintaipei posted:It's a Mondeo underneath, no? Not at all. Autoexec.bat posted:They were bought in 1999, you can tell pretty easily as the handles immediately changed to the cheaper ford ones and they discontinued all RWD cars right around the buyout. Not quite, the P2 cars were designed in the mid 90s, long before Ford had any influence, and were just an evolution of the 850 series. The drivetrain components are all identical, the body design was created clear back in 1992 as a concept. They were so well received that in hindsight Volvo probably shouldn't have sold. The first Volvo with Ford parts in it is the 2004.5 S40 which makes sense as it was released 5 years after the purchase. It platform shared with the Mazda3 and Focus (as well as the V50, C30, and C70).
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May 4, 2020 16:48
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madeintaipei posted:It's a Mondeo underneath, no? I don't know (really no idea). The pics of the mondeo front suspension doesn't look like mine from a real quick gis
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May 4, 2020 16:49
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LloydDobler posted:Not at all. A testament to the qualities of the P2 platform is the P28, first gen XC90, which lived on well in under Geely ownership and was at the end briefly produced as a start-up model in one of the new production facilities in China, under the name "XC Classic". (However, the main reason for the long lifespan was that Ford had constantly been killing every replacement and/or facelift project) The Ford era actually ended last summer, as the last V40 rolled off the line in Ghent, nine years after Geely bought the company.
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May 4, 2020 18:42
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P2 chat: Which V70 models / years have a rear sway bar? Most of the to me "familiar ones" are older non-turbo ones that are simply missing a rear sway bar, but others do have one. Where's the cutoff for it? Is it something they added later, or did they only put them on certain versions of it for whatever reason?
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May 5, 2020 08:28
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You can tell easily P3 cars are among Ford designed as they cheapened out on every aspect, for example rust proofing and interior (door cards especially). The 2007 Mondeo is based on the same EUCD platform which is why people think that they're basically Volvo's underneath. You could even briefly get the Mondeo with the Volvo I5.
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May 5, 2020 14:37
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ionn posted:P2 chat: Which V70 models / years have a rear sway bar? Most of the to me "familiar ones" are older non-turbo ones that are simply missing a rear sway bar, but others do have one. Where's the cutoff for it? Is it something they added later, or did they only put them on certain versions of it for whatever reason? Every turbo P2 I've had has a rear bar, even the low pressure. I thought every Volvo since the 240 had a rear bar stock.
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May 5, 2020 16:59
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LloydDobler posted:Every turbo P2 I've had has a rear bar, even the low pressure. I thought every Volvo since the 240 had a rear bar stock. I was pretty surprised to find that my 2002 N/A V70 doesn't have one. There is no trace of any bracketry to suggest that there ever used to be one either. Same deal with my sister's car which might be a 2004 maybe, also N/A. 140hp with a slushbox isn't what you would call "sporty" so maybe it wasn't deemed necessary by the bean counters I guess.
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May 5, 2020 18:14
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Are you both in the US? Volvo's are/were (from Göthenburg) built to order, so maybe the importer / whoever sold those didn't just specify that for lower trims.
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May 5, 2020 22:45
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Invalido and me are both talking about Volvos in their native habitat, Sweden. I've been under a couple of turbo V70's as well, but I honestly don't remember if they had the bar there or not. You rarely notice them unless it's the bushings or linkages for the bar itself that brought you there. It obviously works well enough without it, but I'm a bit curious which got it and which didn't. Swedes are allowed to go without due to their sensible driving? Or only turbo cars get them, because they're the only ones expected to ever take a corner at fun speeds? I mean, the likelihood of a 140 or 170hp V70 ever appearing on a racetrack is rather low. I have however seen some actual FWD race cars (Including an old 2000-ish S40 T4 that was really quick until it caught fire) have stiffer rear springs and remove the rear bar, so cornering is certainly possible anyway.
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May 6, 2020 15:56
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My 02 V70XC loved its first UP winter, came out of it with a P0571 (don't care, cruise still works fine) and a P0128 (thermostat stuck open?). I've got a thermostat assembly and gasket coming from FCP, hoping I don't have to screw around with the power steering to get to it.
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May 6, 2020 17:56
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Dirt McGuirk posted:I've got a thermostat assembly and gasket coming from FCP, hoping I don't have to screw around with the power steering to get to it. For the O2 it should be the old generic design, you don't even have to drain coolant. Just take 2 bolts off, lift out the old, spill a little coolant, install new, top up coolant. 3 minute job. If you have the "updated" one, then yeah you have to pull your power steering pump out. But it's easy, and again, it doesn't really spill much fluid. Clamp the soft line and just put a rag under the hard line. The pump comes off with 3 bolts through holes in the pulley.
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May 6, 2020 18:37
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I have another question. Thanks for putting up with me being a dumb rear end so far. OK, probably stupid question - Let's say I've got an 87', 97', and a 07' Volvo all in a similar price range and condition. Like I've mentioned, my legs have issues and I cannot work on the car myself. If I have a problem, it goes to the shop. Should I tend toward getting the newest Volvo possible? Or was there a specific time where the cars were higher quality and less problem prone? The whole Ford thing throws me for a loop. If I had my way, I'd get the oldest one I could. But I'm worried about a money pit situation when I just need something to get me from point A to B without catching fire if I get on the interstate. It's not going to be a road trip or work commute car. --------------------------------------- I know this isn't really Volvo specific, but I swear to God some people think selling a car is - - List car - Don't answer questions - Wait for someone to give you money without test driving There have been Volvos I'd have bought, if the people would loving respond past saying, "You want car?" and then strict radio silence when I ask something like, "How long have you owned the car?"
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May 6, 2020 22:10
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Which model 07?
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May 6, 2020 22:12
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taqueso posted:Which model 07? This is the one that comes to mind - V70 Turbo https://portland.craigslist.org/clk/ctd/d/vancouver-2007-volvo-v70-25-turbo-wagon/7111990163.html But I've got about twelve I'm trying to call about. It's harder than you'd expect.
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May 6, 2020 22:18
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I'd probably go for the 07 and that's -probably- a good price. I notice they don't mention if the AC works if that matters to you. You'll need to budget for timing belt/water pump/PCV system service/trans fluid swap. So I dunno....$1200 to $1500 in p&l? A 97 is basically the same car minus a bunch of updates. So if it's mint and UTD on all maintenance, it could be competitive. An 87 is shopping for something completely different (at this point, heading towards antique, though with a thorough enthusiast backing especially in your area) and I would defer to the resident redblock experts to advise on particular cars.
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May 6, 2020 22:41
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I don't want to spam this place with a bunch of listings, but once I've got it whittled down to some cars I'd actually buy I'll run them by you folk.
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May 6, 2020 22:43
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When Ford owned Volvo it's not like they laid everyone in Sweden off and some Alabaman sisterfucker started slapping Volvo logos and Whiteblocks in some old stock Mercury Topaz shells out back. There was _some_ sharing of platforms and parts but it was largely the same group of people making similar cars. There's no reason to fear that era, and tbh from a reliability standpoint I'd take my Ford-derived P1 over a fully Swedish P2 all day long. That being said, within your budget/goals I would personally be looking at mostly P80 cars and 7xx, maybe 9xx's. Any Volvo with curved sheet metal for sub-$3k is likely to be trouble IMO.
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May 7, 2020 01:15
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What do you mean by curved sheet metal? This is truly silly, but the once it gets into the 2000's the styling gets all...boring. I like the blocky tank aesthetic, but not enough to pay a shitload for it. I would have no problem making my car's sound system a Bluetooth speaker sitting in the passenger seat. I already play all my music through my phone.
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May 7, 2020 01:53
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Curved sheet metal = curvy bodies, 01 and newer. A well sorted high mileage redblock (<'95) will be as reliable as a new one even if it was well maintained. And the repairs are much more affordable. That said, a lot of shops are refusing to work on RWD volvos anymore because the ones that are still out there are either owned by enthusiasts who do their own wrenching, or people like my ex wife who ignore problems and run it in to the ground because it just keeps running. Ironically I just bought the twin to that 07 and I paid $6k for it because it is like new and only had 86k miles. I've already spent an additional $2000 on it to bring it back to 100%. Some of it was cosmetic or unnecessary. But overall even just the parts for the newer ones are a lot more expensive. They're coming down slowly. Also, in terms of refinement and overall quality, safety, and comfort, that 07 is head and shoulders above the 97 which is far nicer than the 87. It's a completely different class of car. But on the flip side, it's hard to get in and out of a shop for under $600. When things fail or wear out they cost a lot more. My sister hated hers and went back to a 90's 240 because she hated the A-pillar blind spot necessary for the advanced crash protection, and she hated the repair bills. Truth is, I'd recommend all of them. Depends on your needs. Again, for my ex wife I recommend 940s and nothing else because they are the most "ignore the maintenance" tolerant of all Volvos. And she's very broke. I got her a salvage title '94 940 back in 2010 and she still drives it. She spends less than $300 a year on maintenance. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 03:09 on May 7, 2020 |
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May 7, 2020 03:05
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I'm fixed income and share a condo we own with my father. I'm not flat broke, but I'm pretty close to it. Truth is, I could spend more than 3k. But for something that will literally just be a second car so I can have more of a social life, I have a hard time justifying the expense being much higher. I'm mentally telling myself I'll have to drop a grand in maintenance out of the gate and I'll consider myself lucky if it's less. I would be happiest with an old rear end, clean blocky Volvo. But I know that's getting into antique car territory. If I couldn't go Volvo, I'd still want European. I just like 'em, what can I say? Oh, here are the other two listings that made me ask my 07 vs 97 vs 87 thing. https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/ctd/d/portland-1995-volvo-960-beautiful-car/7107212841.html https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/ctd/d/portland-1989-volvo-station-wagon-auto/7117244085.html Again, you all have been extremely helpful and I appreciate it. 
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May 7, 2020 03:12
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Echoing what others have said, they're really completely different cars. A 240 is manageable but it's probably something you should only consider if you want to pick up working on cars as a hobby. I had one a 89 240 wagon for three years that was in decent condition when I got it. I promptly hit a deer and had to replace the front center support and both headlights. It was about 300,000 miles when I got it. Over the next three years of ownership I had to ... Rear brake calipers seized up, had to replace. Replace rear right axle bearing, it was starting to leak. This probably wasn't mandatory. Fix driveshaft center bushing. It was starting to whine on the the freeway. There was a patch in the the transmission coolant lines that developed a very bad leak one day and dumped half the transmission fluid onto the exhaust. Eventually I replaced the lines outright. Timing belt broke one day leaving me stuck a few miles from my house. The alternator mount sheared off one day, had to source a new one and use a back-out drill on the engine block to get the old bolt out. Put in a new battery too. Front brakes also needed to be replaced. Spark plug cables were pretty worn out, needed to be replaced. Throttle cable was starting jam, had to replace that. Bought new tires. Rebuilt rear suspension with new bushings, shocks. It currently needs a new water pump. Most of there were not very expensive to fix and were fixable by myself in a weekend ... but they did require a weekend. Almost everything was reasonably cheap to purchase and could be picked up from Autozone or FCP Euro, getting parts wasn't really an issue. I think the era of the maintenance-free 240 is coming to an end. They are too old for that. However, the drive train continues to be indestructible. I inadvertently dumped most of the transmission fluid on multiple occasions while dealing with the coolant line leak, and the transmission didn't skip a beat. The engine still runs fine at 350,000 miles. The B230+AW71 combination needs to go into a hall of frame of legendary power-trains. It is a very simple and robust car. If you want something to wrench on that you are not afraid of, the 240 is a great car, but if you do not want to wrench on a car, you should buy something newer.
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May 7, 2020 04:18
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Yeah, I feel like any old car is going to require a lot of replacements. Things not normally considered wear items begin to wear out.
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May 7, 2020 15:29
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