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I have an 04 VR with 81k, 6MT. I post over at sweedespeed and find it pretty useful, as well as v70r.com. I need to install new rear pads that I have in my garage (got the Monroes with the coupon) and also buy some new front pads and rotors. I'll get the ceramics for the front again but I'm not sure on rotors, I might just get OEM. I don't track it, so why pay extra for vents or slots. I'm also chasing down a cabin leak somewhere that's draining into the passenger footwell. It's not the sunroof vents and I just had the windsheild replaced so I'm waiting for another big rainstorm to see if it's fixed.
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Apr 16, 2010 16:34
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| # ¿ Apr 19, 2024 17:59 |
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Splizwarf posted:My junkyard offer from the last thread is still open.
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Apr 22, 2010 15:28
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The Mantis posted:Also, can anyone provide feedback about vparts.dealerfit.com? I don't have any experience with them and didn't find them mentioned in the forums. I can't find anything on IPD and Thule wants waaaay too much for cross bars and feet.
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May 3, 2010 14:49
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Splizwarf posted:netwerk23: workin' on it, same problem as for TheJeffers only sub "grey" for "beige or red". So much grey.
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May 24, 2010 16:38
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Re-reading your post I realized you might also be asking for the actual carpeting that covers the whole floor of the car and not just the individual floor mats I've been looking for, can you clarify?
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I have an 04 VR, so far it's been fairly inexpensive for an expensive to repair car. I do have a Volvo warranty for another year/10k miles though. Mostly as was already said, the angle gear wears outs, leaks, dies. It's expensive and other than weeping seals, there's no way to predict failure. The shocks are more like $600 a corner, check if they are leaking too. There is an underbody strap that can get caught, pushed into the driveshaft and cause serious financial pain, you can safely remove it in the driveway. They only drink premium fuel, brake parts are expensive but turbo boost and 4C are really fun. Oh, the biggest drivability issue is the turning ratio, which is supremely awful. Some parking garages, tight ones, are nightmares. Oh, and the radiators leak from a weak plastic joint. Oh, and there's a noise called axle ping from loose bolts, it's annoying but can be fixed. The interior upgrades in 05 are nice, the aluminum trim etc.
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Nov 25, 2010 07:53
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compressioncut posted:I have an M3 so premium fuel is something I'm very used to - in fact 91 octane is a nice step down, as my car much prefers 94. The forums on SS are filled with good knowledge, but as with any high traffic forum there's a lot of repetition. The forums on V70R.com get much less traffic but have some smart people too. Most of my new performance parts I get from IPD, most OEM parts I get from Volvo of Dallas's volvowholesaleparts.com The 4C technology is around ten years old, they're pretty heavy pig cars and while there is some performance room in the engine, it's expensive to go beyond +/- 50HP. Most people go for a larger front IC, software flash and maybe exhaust for a modest gain. Depending on how much you enjoy turning a wrench, they can be very rewarding cars for being essentially hot family haulers.
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Nov 25, 2010 17:12
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Anjow posted:Does anyone have any comments regarding a Scangauge2 and an S60? I'm interested in getting one but I don't know enough about OBD stuff or Volvos to know whether I'd have full functionality or not. I'd also be interested in any opinions people have of them. There's a guy on SwedeSpeed that totally whores out his picture of his scangauge mounted to his steering column in every single 'post your guages' thread. He does it so often it's something of a joke. Go to SS and look for any guage thread and there's no mistaking his, then you can PM him with any questions. I'm pretty sure it'll show horsepower but not boost.
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Jan 24, 2011 22:50
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Splizwarf posted:You're hell of spoiled by SA's megathread rules, that's how. The rest of the internet is terrible. Well to be fair, SS isn't that bad. They have decent moderation, but the community isn't as large as SA so it doesn't need as much control. There aren't piles and piles of 'gauge' threads but they do come up a few times a month. I remembered that guy's username, it's stealthys60r I think.
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Jan 25, 2011 18:07
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This weekend I insalled a Phuzzy TCV into my 04VR. I also replaced the vaccuum lines with new blue* silicon ones. Overall it was pretty easy, I fabricated a mount for the TCV from some spare aluminum bar I had on hand. Replacing two of the three lines was easy enough, didn't have to take anything off. The third one I pulled off the strut brace, the OTE pipe and even jacked the car up to attack it from beneath but I could never find where it attached to the drat turbo. I worked and worked and searched for a good hour before giving up and using a barbed connector to extend the stock line to the new TCV mount. gently caress it, it looks nice enough and is working great. *blue for 10 extra HP
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Feb 28, 2011 17:52
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Oxphocker posted:My V70R is 236hp =) Nice. Mine has 301.
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Mar 22, 2011 16:03
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Oxphocker posted:04?
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Mar 24, 2011 18:19
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On my 04 VR the power steering reservoir leaks, like almost all 04's do. The fix is usually to buy the 05+ reservoir and pipe, then install that instead. Has anyone done this? It's a bit of a long shot but I don't want to spend the $70 for the 05 part to find out it doesn't actually fit the 04s.
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Apr 10, 2012 16:20
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TheClarkster posted:I have an 05 V70R that needs its brakes done, so I figured I might as well look into upgrading them. Are there options that don't run ~$2-3k like the Brembos? Are there usual recommended options for the V-Rs? Why upgrade? Do you track? The OEMs are Brembos and I find they have plenty of bite. I did replace my front rotors with PowerSlots from IPD. For pads, the prevailing wisdom is to stick to OEM unless you track. The best upgrade for track use seems to be titanium shims. I have ceramic pads and they are noisy SOBs, for my next pad I'll go Hawk HPS or OEM.
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Apr 13, 2012 20:11
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The power steering reservoir in my 04 VR has leaked since I got it back in 09. As I have read this is due to a faulty design in the reservoir. I've never had to refill it but I'm pretty sure the dealership has been topping it off at each service. I'd like to replace it with the 05+ reservoir which has an improved design. I've read it's a drop in replacement. I was also thinking about replacing the suction hose at the same time. My question is, do I need Volvo steering fluid or will any equivalent product at AutoZone work just as well? IPD sells the Pentosin CHF 11S for about $20 a liter. I'm not 100% on my capacity though. Parts list: Generic suction hose: http://tinyurl.com/ch8xdgn Pentosin CHF 11S at IPD http://www.ipdusa.com/products/5743/112998-power-steering-fluid 2006 Reservoir at IPD: http://www.ipdusa.com/products/6958/115559-power-steering-fluid-reservoir-s60-s80-v70-xc70 Thanks
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Sep 6, 2012 17:11
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Disgruntled Bovine posted:Just thought I'd pop in to say I'll be joining the Volvo club soon. I'm in the process of buying a 2007 S60R though due to complications I probably won't have it until the middle of October. I'll come back with photos when I've got it. I have an 04VR, 6MT, 110k miles and it's been good to me. The slave cylinders failures are endemic to the 6MT and the 07's have the hardened collar/angle gears. My 04 does not, but having an auto you're also torque limited in first (and I think second) gear. You should definitely join over at SS and post a hello thread with pictures, there are some very smart members. Some idiots too. We've got picture tutorials for most maintenance items, but the built-in search sucks so use google with site:forums.swedespeed.com in the query. First thing when you get the SR, check if the exhaust bracket of death has been removed. It's a needless strap that goes across the exhaust and driveshaft under the car about half way back. It hangs low and gets hung up on lots of stuff. It's called 'of death' because if it gets hung up on something large and heavy it can get pushed up into the exhaust, which will crush into the driveshaft and you are looking at a very expensive repair. Anyway if you have any questions let me know, I've done lots to my VR.
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Sep 25, 2012 17:23
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Disgruntled Bovine posted:The torque limiting only applied to the '04 and '05 5 speed autos. The '06 and '07 6 speed autos don't have it.
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Oct 2, 2012 20:29
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Disgruntled Bovine posted:I went to have the S60R I'm buying inspected on Friday. No major issues. I should be finalizing things in about a week and a half. In the mean time here's a photo. Does it come with a set of Pegs too?
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Oct 8, 2012 19:55
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You'll figure it out, but I'll add that the first time you take off the bumper it takes 30 minutes but by the 3rd time, it's more like 3.5 minutes and that accounts for taking a piss in the middle of it. It's pretty easy.
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Nov 26, 2012 22:48
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My 04VR with 115k miles has developed a clunking in the front passenger side suspension at low speed over bumpy roads. Any suggestions for easy diagnosing? I'm going to jack it up and tug on the wheel a bit to see if there's play. I read that they eat endlinks around this time?
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Jan 3, 2013 17:04
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Oxphocker posted:IPD sells heavy duty versions of those end links...thicker bar and beefier ball joints/boots. They last longer than the OEMs. Thanks all, I was looking for an excuse to upgrade the sway bars too.
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Jan 4, 2013 17:56
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Arse Porn Cage posted:Check the wires going into the tailgate. Because the wires flex every time the gate opens and closes, sometimes they break. Mine had one broken wire and a few with visible copper. I butted the broken wire back together and taped over the bare spots on the remaining wires. For a while I was getting intermittent contact on the broken wire, so the car would lock and arm the alarm. When the broken wire ends shifted the car's computer thought the tailgate was open and activated the alarm. Not sure what year is the V70, but on the 2001+'s there's a common problem where the battery in the alarm module grows old, becomes corroded and explodes its nasty juices all over the alarm module's PCB, causing it to short and the alarm to go off at random times. Volvo made the module hard to get to as a theft deterrence, there are threads on SS and VS on its removal. Usually it involves drilling out some rivets behind the front passenger wheel liner. Could be the culprit.
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Jan 29, 2013 20:14
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I noticed a few days ago, when reversing out of a spot, that one of my reverse lights appears to be out on my 04 V70. I figure it's either out, or the reverse sensor is bad. Wagon has 121k miles, so I ordered the sensor anyway from FCP. Reading on SS and other spots about its R&R, many people have trouble because they need a customized length socket. Has anyone run into this? Would it be easier to just remove the shifter cables? Thanks
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Apr 29, 2013 18:49
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Splizwarf posted:Uh, did you check the condition of the actual bulb? A bad shift position sensor would kill both reverse lamps. Well, no, although I'm sure that seems like a totally reasonable thing to do. Truth is I'd like to change it out anyway, seeing as they seem to have such a high failure rate around this mileage.
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Apr 30, 2013 03:26
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Splizwarf posted:Do you mean you want to change out the bulb anyway, or the sensor? What I was trying (ham-handedly) to say is that if you still have one reverse light that operates correctly, there's literally no way that it's your shift position sensor that has failed. I want to change the sensor anyway, before it goes bad, or because it already has. Has anyone else done this on an 02+ M66?
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May 1, 2013 16:57
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I changed the reverse sensor on my M66 last night. Overall it wasn't terrible, especially considering I had no real idea what I was doing. Overview: 1. Remove airbox entirely, with MAF 2. Look down at the transmission and you'll see the two cables connected to the shifter. Between then and aft is the sensor, it'll have a wire going to it in a thin loom. 3. Remove the dust cap from the right hand pivot, then find something suitable to hammer the retaining pin out with. I used a small socket and a hammer. Be smart, not like me, and put some tape on the pin so when you do finally knock it free it doesn't disappear into the car, lost forever. 4. Using a small pry bar, wrench the rotating weighted part up off the transmission shaft. You'll have to twist it a bit to clear the left hand cable. 5. With that out of the way, you can easily access the sensor. I was able to get a socket on it, but not the wrench, so I just used a crescent and it worked great. 6. Remove it, install the new one and tighten. Mine had no trace of thread lock or antiseize, so I didn't use any 7. Reconnected the sensor wire. On mine, the plug has a retaining clip, but there was nothing for it to plug into, it was held in place only by friction. I used several long zipties to hold it tight to the sensor, going all the way around the top of the transmission, 3 or 4 ties total. Ugly, functional. 8. Reinstall the weighted plate, I used a small hammer to coax it back onto the shaft. 9. With the retaining pin long gone, I found a perfectly sized metric bolt and nut combo in my workbench that was the perfect width and length to snug in without catching on anything. Amazing really. 10. Dust cap and MAF/airbox reinstall Now, test. For me it was instant, before no lights, now, lights. I was stupid and disconnected the left hand shift cable from its mating pivot head, thinking it would grant me more working space. It didn't, and now I can only barely get into 6th, so tonight I get to take the airbox off and adjust the cable connection. It looks easy enough, just annoying. I understand why some people make a custom length socket to fit right on the sensor and still be able to fit a wrench, but seriously, this is something done every 120k miles, so why go through the trouble. netwerk23 fucked around with this message at 18:41 on May 16, 2013 |
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May 16, 2013 18:39
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parid posted:Solid advice. That helps me quantify the scale of the situation. If I do move forward, I might just preemptively do the angle gear replacements. There are a couple of angle gear replacement alternatives, a few folks on swedespeed and other spots have successfully welded the collar gear in place. This just moves the breaking to another spot, the driveshaft or transmission internals itself though. Honestly I wouldn't worry about the angle gear as long as the seals are good and you aren't adding 100HP. Normal 10-50HP mods probably won't push anything too hard, unless you are doing stupid things, like clutch drops or trying to drag race your executive saloon highway cruiser. These cars weren't designed to be hot rods, unless you spend megabucks you aren't going to be in the 10's anytime soon. I have 130k miles on my 04 VR and the angle gear's been resealed twice but no replacements yet. Factory clutch too. I'd be more concerned about the shocks leaking, how old is the battery (they are very fickle cars about battery age), is the radiator factory stock and ready to start leaking, etc.
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May 21, 2013 15:21
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Cakefool posted:B5244 is the phase 3 R, B5254 is the regular old awd. Seems to be a similar setup regardless though. FCP has a few videos on YouTube, including a t-belt service. Amusingly during their video the timing goes off slightly and they have to redo it. Also there are two flavors of tensioners, make sure you get the right one. Maybe even order both, do the service, then return the one you didn't use. I tried to use my VIN to tell which one to get and FCP sent the wrong one. Luckily my Volvo mechanic had the right one on hand.
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May 31, 2013 14:34
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I bought a complete set of springs and pads to replace the parking brake components in my 04 V70 from FCP. I very very highly recommend buying replacement springs, and they have a spring set that makes it easy. You can do it re-using the springs if they're in decent shape, but it's so much easier to just cut them with snips and not have to fight to get them out, especially unmolested. I heard some rumors that the non-OEM pads wouldn't fit right (I got ScanTec or whatever they're called) but they fit no problem and have been fine for 30k+ miles. iPD has parts too.
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Jun 7, 2013 19:43
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FloatingPoop posted:What do I do? Thanks in advance.
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Jun 19, 2013 17:08
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LloydDobler posted:Got tint on my wagon yesterday. I've been meaning to do it for 4 years, the timing finally worked out. 35% on the fronts, 20% from the B pillar back.
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Jul 25, 2013 17:19
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Oxphocker posted:Saw this: I've seen that car brought up before on Swedespeed. 21/28MPg is incredibly optimistic, more like 17/22 for me. The stereo and climate control panels are not installed properly, there's a weird buldge beneath each one. It also doesn't have the interior air quality system but that's probably not a deal breaker.
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Jul 26, 2013 16:07
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zundfolge posted:The stereo and climate control panels are fine-they subtly redesigned them in 2005+ P2 cars. They added a little lip at the bottom of the radio and put a bezel around the radio and climate controls that was absent in earlier cars.
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Jul 29, 2013 19:21
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The upper driver's side tail light on my 04 V70 has a crack and is fish-tankin'. Can I get any P2 replacement or is it 04 or R specific? They look the same. Something like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/01-02-03-04...12181%26ps%3D54
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Sep 30, 2013 16:35
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Thanks Spliz, Lloyd. I think I'll try for a repair. I'd ignore it but the inside is now dirty and a little discolored. If I break it further I'll buy the replacement.
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Sep 30, 2013 19:07
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Oxphocker posted:Managed to find a good 06 for $14k, can't wait for it to get here...
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Oct 31, 2013 20:34
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Oxphocker posted:PM me if you want more details on the car... Lots of resources over at Swedespeed, lots you can do yourself. Last night I replaced the privacy shades (accordians on the sides of the sunroof) and the windshield washer nozzles, both pretty easy and fall apart around the same time.
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Nov 5, 2013 22:04
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I just ordered the complete blue box PCV system repair kit from iPD - anyone ever done one on a P2? Doesn't look that terrible, some coolant loss and intake manifold gasket. Should I just give the indy $200 to do it?
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Nov 17, 2013 05:38
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LloydDobler posted:It might be worth the $200. Thanks, I think I agree. Three hours at my indy, $210, sounds like it's worth it.
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Nov 18, 2013 13:57
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S.W.G. posted:How the hell does a swaybar snap clean in half like that? The mounts are 100% fine. There was just a big groupbuy on Swedespeed for the iPD track-spec sway bars too. I've never seen that kind of failure outside a manufacturing defect, but I'm no Master Tech either.
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Feb 27, 2014 19:34
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| # ¿ Apr 19, 2024 17:59 |
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I saw that post on SS, what an amazing find. If I was going to respray my black VR, I'd go Sonic Blue too. Maybe that Laguna BMW color instead, although it's become hip with the Civic crowd.
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Mar 18, 2014 17:32
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