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So, anyone care to guess how much I'm going to be in to fix this?     I'm thinking I can salvage the driver's fender, ignore the scratches on the bumper, replace the hood, radiator, radiator support, grill and headlights and have a pretty decent looking car. For those that are interested, this 1994 940 wagon hit a deer at 70mph. The deer faired worse. It's a friend's car and he's giving it to me if I want it. Not sure I do. It's got about 250,000 miles on it, but the whole top-end was rebuilt not 500 miles ago, lower end is solid. He was incredibly fastidious about maintenance and repairs, so it's in excellent shape, outside of the obvious damage.
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Apr 23, 2010 15:38
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Anyone able to confirm my diagnoses/next step plan of action? I've got a 2002 Volvo S60t I'm hitting with wrenches right now, belongs to a friend. The radiator fan runs continuously, even after the car is shut down, even two days after the car is shut down. Right now she's disconnecting the power to the fan when she shuts down the car, and reconnecting for driving time. We replaced the engine coolant temperature sensor, which is located in the thermostat housing, but this didn't change a thing, the fan still runs all the time. I disconnected the purple wire connector on the fan housing and nothing changes. I believe this is the wire that signals the fan control unit to change speeds from fast to slow. The fan still spins. This leads me to believe the fan control unit, which is located as component of the fan housing, has failed. The fix is to replace the entire fan housing. I am correct on everything here?
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Aug 6, 2010 00:10
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Can anyone tell me what this piece is called? The car is a 1994 940 Wagon non turbo. It obviously appears to feed the heater core, and the vacuum pot on the side actuates a valve inside of it so I know it has something to do with climate control, but aside from the vacuum line there seems to be no other control going to it. Anyway, you can see where the arrows point that I broke the gently caress out of it (chasing a vacuum leak in the dark last night). It then puked hot antifreeze all over my hand. Felt pretty good. I thought it was what is labeled at the parts houses as a "Heater Control Valve", but the zone and rockauto show a part that looks substantially different. Anyway, the car is now immobilized until what time I fix this thing, and I don't know what the part is to replace it.
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Sep 23, 2011 17:06
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TheJeffers posted:That's definitely the heater control valve. Here's another source for it: Thank you, that looks like it. Funny if I cross reference the part numbers I can find replacement valves like the units that AZ and RA sell. Wonder if theirs would work. I've already had a bad experience with AZ and O'Reillys on this car though. Went to buy plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Got home from the Zone and the wires wouldn't work with the cap they sold me. Then went to O'Reilly and they wires they sold were correct fitment at the cap and plugs, but waaaaaay to short. Was there a version of the redblock with the distributor in a different place? Because there is no way I could get these wires over the valve cover to the plugs on the passenger side of the bay. The distributor is on the driver's side behind the alt.
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Sep 23, 2011 19:12
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Splizwarf posted:That's the only control, the valve's spring-loaded; level of vacuum = amount of valve closed. I'm pretty sure that the failure position is valve open (because that'd be what I'd want in case the car decided to overheat), but I don't actually remember. You'll find out when you take it off. Oh, so the vacuum is controlled inside. I figured for some reason it would plug straight into manifold source and was all like "HOW IN THE gently caress DOES THAT WORK?" This car's controls allude me for some reason, which doesn't make sense considering I drive a 1982 Mercedes.
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Sep 23, 2011 22:44
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| # ¿ Apr 25, 2024 16:15 |
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Splizwarf posted:Pull your dash trim and get a look at the controls from the back if you're interested, the guts are a very good visual explanation. Honestly, I don't think the controls are any different from the '72 Chevy truck I was helping restore last year. Heater valve on a 72 Chevy truck aught to be cable operated though, correct? It is on my 76 Scout, which pretty much is all Delco under the dash. Funny enough, my Merc escaped most of the nightmarish vacuum HVAC stuff and has manual cable-operated (dual zone!) heater control valves.
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Sep 24, 2011 02:15
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