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I'll show my DD Volvo and tell its story in another post but right now I have more pressing issues. It's an 89 240 5 speed manual (M47). Yesterday the girlfriend was driving it home when the clutch pedal just dropped to the floor. She said it felt like a cable snapping (for what that's worth). The clutch pedal will lift up easily but returns to the floor when let go. It will shift into gear with the car turned off but I couldn't get it in gear with it running. I am looking for advice on what the likely culprits are and where to look and what to do first. Any ideas?
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Apr 16, 2010 17:26
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Seat Safety Switch posted:If it was the clutch and it felt like a cable snapping, it was probably the clutch cable. Sure enough the cable had snapped. I'm picking up the new cable tomorrow. Anyone done this before? One thing I am concerned about is the manual refers to a rubber stopper and washer assembly that the cable nipple seats into:  Click here for the full 608x661 image.  The existing stopper was a ball of sticky goo that resembled butyl and there was no washer to be seen. I have no idea where to get one of these so I may have to try and fabricate one out of something else. The return spring is missing too but I guess I can get from ipd.
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Apr 18, 2010 03:21
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I don't believe 240s are hydraulic clutch, but I could be wrong.
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Here is my daily driver - a 1989 Volvo 244 w/158k mi.  Click here for the full 758x361 image. I started my arduous journey of Volvo ownership last Fall. I had been subconsciously nurturing some sort of Volvo envy while lurking in the threads here when my girlfriends DD died. Perfect! Now we can get a Volvo. I didn't like what I was saw for offer on craigslist. What I found was too much rust, too many miles or what I thought was too much money. Then I found one for $450 at a lot that sold mostly damaged vehicles. It had a seized brake caliper, no battery, symptoms of a bad alternator, poo poo tires, broken exhaust pipe and a dent in one front fender. Apart from the dent, the body and paint were relatively straight. Despite crawling under the car to inspect, my brain somehow failed to acknowledge the condition of the underbody. I knew there was an 89 wagon with a bad transmission but a lot of new stuff on it for $300 on craigslist. In a moment of questionable judgment I bought both cars and towed them home. At the time I was a oilchange/sparkplug mechanic with not many tools. I only had a few days to get it running before the snow set in for the winter. I changed brake lines, calipers and rotors. Transplanted the alternator from the parts car and installed a new starter. I traded the 15” wheels with 14's that had good rubber from the wagon. I chopped the relatively new exhaust of the wagon right behind the cat, strapped it to the top of the car and took it to a muffler shop that put it on for $20. I fixed a few vacuum hoses, put in new plugs, threw some sea-foam in the crankcase and changed the oil. It snowed the night I finished. This spring I could no longer ignore the poor condition of the under-body. It was stick-your-finger-through the floor pan type bad. It seemed like I either had to sell this thing while I could or fix it – I decided to fix it. I brought it to a buddy who had a wire feed gas welder and was looking for a little extra cash. We spent 4 long days cutting out, fabricating and installing the drivers side under-body and extensive parts of both rockers. It was epic and it sucked rear end. I'm glad for the experience but had I known what I was getting into I would have waited for, and spent more money on a less corroded, better maintained specimen. It has broken down on me twice: once a bad ground to the fuel pump relay and recently the clutch cable snapped. The rear lights are also borked – there is always a light out and if I replace the bulb the next one down the line goes, rinse and repeat. I am now at the point where all the major stuff is working and I can do small maintenance projects as I feel like it. There are endless types of these projects to choose from.
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Apr 22, 2010 20:38
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Ether Frenzy posted:With a couple suspension/unsprung weight changes (IPD anti-sway bar, Bilstein HD shocks/struts, and some lighter 15 or 16" wheels with a stiffer sidewall tire) you can get a pretty fun daily driver that turns on a dime, is no worries to park anywhere and isn't going to get you any speeding tickets. I have zero knowledge of what dimensions/bolt pattern a wheel needs to fit a 240 (or any car for that matter). Any recommendations on a specific wheel that would fit and where to get it? I'd prefer something that looked more classic than go-fast. Same with tire size, I have no idea on would be a suitable size tire/wheel combo.
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Apr 29, 2010 22:29
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rubbersoul posted:I'm trying to replace the brake lines after one broke (hardline into the caliper) and everything is frozen solid and I'm twisting lines left and right, how in the poo poo does one remove frozen brake lines? ch1mp fucked around with this message at 03:50 on May 27, 2010 |
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May 27, 2010 03:38
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Quick question: What is the goon approved oil formulation/weight/brand for the 240 B230F red blocks (1989)?
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May 27, 2010 03:44
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Money Walrus posted:As far as B230FT oil goes, I personally use 10w 40, and have had nothing but good experiences.
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May 27, 2010 04:07
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LloydDobler posted:I've always run Castrol GTX dino oil at 10w40 and it's never ever let me down. So I am hearing 30 and 40 weight. I'm sure either is fine but I'm curious what I should consider when choosing between either 30 or 40. The car is stock NA w/ 160k climate here ranges from -30F to 100F - usually 70-90 in the summer. The engine is the slightest bit ticky more so at start up.
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May 27, 2010 16:52
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Do 240s (5spd M47) typically require some effort to get into gear, specifically 1st and 2nd? The effort required seems mostly the sideways portion, once pulled over enough the up or down movement is relatively easy. Is this normal?
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Jun 9, 2010 22:01
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The inline Fuel pump on my 89 240 stopped turning off after the key is removed. It used to run for about 15 seconds after the key was removed and now it is constant. I am thinking this must be the fuel pressure regulator but I just wanted to check with you guys in case there is a more likely culprit or if someone has experienced this before. Any one familiar with this? One additional note: the fuel pump relay system failed a few months ago. The problem turned out not to be the relay itself the the wire supplying ground to the relay. The fix was to cut the ground wire to the relay harness and screw that to the frame (the relay was also replaced).
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Jun 23, 2010 18:40
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82Daion posted:The FPR is a mechanical part and has no influence on whether the fuel pump runs or not. Any way, I swapped out the FPR from the parts car (I assume it was good) and still no change.
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Jun 24, 2010 04:04
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Splizwarf posted:ch1mp, does your car still do this correctly? No. Right now it just runs constantly - key or not. I have to disconnect the battery when I park. Classy eh? I know that at some point it used to prime from key on and then stop when primed. To be honest, I can't remember if this still happened after I manually grounded the fuel pump relay harness but I think that it did. I did the relay harness at least 4 months ago and the only issue that I noticed during that time was about 15 seconds of fuel pump operation after key out. Splizwarf posted::we need a Gas Fight emoticon: 
ch1mp fucked around with this message at 23:21 on Jun 24, 2010 |
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Jun 24, 2010 17:39
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So it turns out that the fuel pump will not turn off if the fuel pump relay is FULL OF WATER!! wtf So a new relay returned the system to its previous state which is for the fuel pump to run for about 5 seconds after the key is removed. This does not seem correct. This leads me to believe that the green wire from the relay that I cut and hard grounded to the frame is in fact some kind of ground signal as opposed to a simple ground. I'm not great with wiring diagrams but that wire seems to be going to pin 20 of the computer - N on the diagram below:  Click here for the full 1136x1516 image. I am starting to conclude that my computer is borked. 
ch1mp fucked around with this message at 03:13 on Jun 28, 2010 |
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Jun 28, 2010 03:05
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82Daion posted:In light of the info in your last post, I want to revisit this. I'm very interested in what you mean by "the fuel pump relay system failed." What symptoms led you to that conclusion, and what led you to believe that grounding that particular wire would fix it? Sure, but I'd like to qualify that this is all new to me and I'm learning as I go - I make no claim of automotive competency. So last winter the car died while driving. There was no power supply to fuel pump at the fuse block. I was able to get the car home by jumping power from the blower motor fuse power to the fuel pump fuse power. After some internet research on similar problems, the fuel pump (or main) relay was nominated as a likely culprit. I installed a new relay with no result so I had a friend who is a mechanic come and look at it. He determined that the relay was not receiving ground on the appropriate pin (pin 2 I believe)and therefore not allowing power to the fuel pump. His solution was to cut the green wire feeding into the relay wiring harness and attach it to a screw on the body of the car so as to ground it. This did indeed allow the car to run without jumping fuel pump power at the fuse box. At the time I considered it solved and thought no more of it until this recent problem of the fuel pump running continuously. In hindsight I see now that this was a simple minded approach: alldata posted:The system relay (located behind passenger side kick panel) is a combined function relay. It combines the fuel pump and fuel injection relay into one unit. The system relay provides current to the fuel pumps, suppressor relay, idle air valve, air mass meter, oxygen sensor pre-heating resistor and to other ECU controlled functions or components. This leads me to believe that the ecu is at fault - unless it is something to do with the engine speed signal but I don't see how that would account for the original failure when the fuel pump would not even prime.
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Jun 28, 2010 19:10
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I’m looking for some help with an ongoing problem with my 89 manual 5 speed (m47) 240. It has always been difficult to shift into first and second is even worse. The difficulty seems to lie in the sideways portion of the shifting motion. It seems like it requires a lot of force to get it over far enough to get into the gate and then engage. Once it is over far enough the forward or back motion does not seem to require as much effort nor does it grind into gear. I mentioned this here previously and someone said that repairing a broken motor mount remedied a similar problem. I have replaced both motor mounts and the transmission mount and it may have slightly improved for a brief time (probably all in my head) but now it is as bad as ever or maybe worse. It makes driving around town a real pain in the rear end. Could this possibly be the syncro or some other transmission related problem (which I’m clueless on) or is it more likely some kind of gearbox alignment or linkage problem? I plan on pulling the shifter boot to find out what I can see down there. Does anyone have any ideas or things to look for the next time I crawl under the car?
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Aug 4, 2010 21:10
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I think I have figured out the solution to my shift problem. The reverse detent plate seems to be preventing the lever from moving far enough to the left. For anyone interested:http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq posted:M-47 Shift Linkage Causes Hard Shift. So I just need to remove the shift boot. It seems to be clipped down through holes on the corners of the bottom of the boot, under the carpet. Does anyone know the procedure for removal? Please dont make me pull up the carpet.
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Aug 5, 2010 03:50
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two forty posted:FYI, Bentley (page 430-3) says the "clearance from the detent plate to detent sleeve (shift lever) in 1st and 2nd gear = .5-1.5 mm" It also says to check it in both first and second gears. I can scan the whole page tomorrow if you don't have a copy. That would be helpful, guess I really should get the bentley some day - Thanks for that and the clip pic.
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Aug 5, 2010 05:02
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I adjusted the reverse detente plate and now the car shifts like butter. I also started to tackle the tail lights which have not worked properly since I have owned the car. I started to undertake the hard wiring procedure and realized it was going to take me a lot longer than first anticipated so i ended up just cleaning up all the contacts on the printed board and also cleaned up corrosion from the plug that connects to the circuit board. It worked! For now at least. Contributing to the problem was the 2 inches of water that had collected in the lens cover. Instead of figuring out were the water was getting in, I just drilled some drain holes into the cover. Question: Do 850 rims fit on a 240?
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Aug 9, 2010 03:12
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Which 15" 240 tires do people here like in tundra like environments?
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Sep 7, 2010 02:19
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Heffer posted:I've never had to sell a total non-runner car before. My options are junk yard or sell it to somebody for parts yeah? What ballpark figures should I be looking for from each option? On a similar note I am finally getting rid of my 240 parts car because it has been taking up most of the garage. I've pulled the computers and a bunch of relays and the mass air meter. Anything else I should be sure to pull before it goes?
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Sep 9, 2010 21:56
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How rare are the 240 turbo rims? Ive been looking for a while and now there are a some on craigslist 2+ hours from me for $150/4. The guy says that clear coat is in rough shape and need refinishing. Is refinishing even worth doing? Any advice on whether these are worth getting? e: Is there a good way to check the rims are round without any specialized equipment? ch1mp fucked around with this message at 03:01 on Sep 12, 2010 |
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Sep 12, 2010 02:56
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Splizwarf posted:$150 is a lot if they need work. They can be had from a junkyard for $30 a pop in whatever condition.
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Sep 12, 2010 05:09
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It's time for new rear shocks on my 244. The internet seems to be in agreement that Blistein are the way to go but price is a bit steep and honestly its just not that kind of car. I am thinking that any new shock will be a huge upgrade over the 21 year old ones that I have. Will I rue the day that I tried to save a little cash by putting Monroes on? Is there a big difference between oil and gas? As I mentioned in my intro post, I am learning wrenching as I go so any useful tips on doing this job myself are appreciated.
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Sep 22, 2010 06:16
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Xovaan posted:stuff Your project is awesome, I'm very impressed - keep up the good work. The clutch cable is an easy task. I found the hardest part to be fiddling with connecting pin and clip on the pedal side. I'm 6'4 so I just don't fit in that space under the pedals. Luckily the guy that was showing me how to do it is 5'-something and he could get right up under there. I also routed mine on the wrong side of the steering column so keep an eye out for that. I found an awesome Volvo mechanic. I bought a map pocket from some volvo guy on craigslist. We ended up talking a while and he turned me on to him. I like to do work myself but it's an everyday car so I don't always have either the time or know-how. Anyways, he said he'd install rear shocks for $50. He only up-charges parts at $2+cost. I brought it in to him and it turned out the noise was actually from the rear support stay bushing being completely worn. I'm having the shocks done as well - I ended up going with the KYB oe replacement shock which are still about half the price of the Blistein TC's.
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Sep 24, 2010 17:59
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82Daion posted:The heater core in my 245 must be going out Late but sorry to hear that. Its my most feared malfunction based on what I've heard  I had new rear shocks, and more importantly, new rear stay bay bushings installed on my 244. I went with the $25 KYB shocks and so far, I wouldn't want anything stiffer. The results were transformative! It is like a new car. Braking, handling and acceleration are vastly improved and a couple of funny noises (a chirp and a clunk upon gear engagement) are gone. I am embarrassed to admit how happy 4 bushings have made me. I am such a dork. What are peoples opinions of the 160's? I have a line on a 1969 164. I almost hope it has been sold. I don't really need it and there are cooler old Volvos but I would have a hard time passing it up if its still available.
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Oct 22, 2010 17:00
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Crispulus posted:I have a '73 164E and it is a head turner but with the automatic it is a bit boring to drive. Any automotive quirks/nightmares with these?
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Oct 22, 2010 22:08
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Xovaan posted:I can't find my Haynes and Bentley books right now to keep researching this. Anybody know of a guide on which wires to splice on an LH2.4 Wiring Harness onto a KJet chassis loom? I know I have to cut the wire that controls WOT but that's about it right now. The engine is in the car; I just need to wait for my crimps to come in and then I'm pretty much good to go. D: I have an electrical diagram for a 2.4 injection system if that's any help - let me know.
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Nov 9, 2010 23:59
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After months of searching on craigslist, I finally got some RWD 15" alloys for the brick at a decent price ($100). Yea! No scratches, some of the clear coat has faded just a little. I think they look alright.  Couple questions: Are the replicas that ipd makes the only wheels over 15" that will fit a 200 without spacers? I think I asked this before (  ) but what tire size do people like on 15" wheels for this car?
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Nov 12, 2010 22:35
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Ether Frenzy posted:I've been running 205/15/50's since time immemorial on my 240's, and it's awesome both in looks and improvement to handling. Which specific tires do you get in that size? All I see on tirerack in that size are a couple high performance type tires with tread patterns that wont do well in snow. They have a bit more selection in 195/55 and a few more in 195/60 though - do you think these taller sizes will be noticeably different to look at? Also, and i feel like a retard for asking this, but will the lug nuts from my old steelies work on these 760 alloys? They seem have a conical rather than rounded countersink so I assume they will work
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Nov 13, 2010 06:23
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Anyone know of a how-to on repairing heated seats on a 240? All I am finding is stuff for 700s and 850's - not sure if that applies.
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Nov 20, 2010 05:53
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Splizwarf posted:Do 240s not have lumbar adjustment? The (easily overcome) problem swapping 740 seatcovers is the hole for that. My 240 has lumbar adjustment but maybe that's broke too because I can't see that it does anything. Now that I think about it, I don't think I have ever had heat from either side seat back - only from the bottom.
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Nov 20, 2010 19:50
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Ether Frenzy posted:Generally it's going to be kind of not a great tire for the snow due to being relatively fat and flat, but you might have more tread choice luck here: Thanks for the reply. I think I'm just going to go with these Kumho Solus KR21 in a 205/60 and if they don't work this winter then I will have 2 set of steelies to put a winter tire on. The other options under consideration are a Goodyear Traction. I liked the tread pattern on some Goodyear Viva 2s I saw at Walmart  but its made for Walmart so I don't know wtf. Its frustrating shopping for tires on the internet. Its a big enough purchase to warrant research but every review of any tire that I've looked at has at least a hand full of "worst tire ever" or "killed my whole family" mixed with suspiciously bombastic acclaim.Btw, I was able to fix my heated seats! It turns out that I was not the first one in there - the cover was already zip tied down. So I pulled the cover with the seat in place and found that one end of the thermostat had come unplugged. I put it back and put a drop of solder on to hold it in place. I also rearranged the element wires and used some duct tape to hold them in place. As Lloyd said, there's not much to it. I also went in to my new awesome volvo mechanic to get the heater core flushed (too cold to do at home now). He owns a bunch of volvos and as I was waiting he invited me to check out his 242. The interior was all redone from a honda or something. It was on jack stands and the hood was up. It took me a minute to figure out what was going on under the hood. It had a 6 liter GM V8  with an enormous turbo attached to it - it must come out of a truck. The engine itself fit in really nice but the homemade turbo intake took up a lot of space.
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Nov 24, 2010 22:03
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I've been trying to replace my Bosch fog light assemblies without much luck. I thought it would be easy to just throw on an aftermarket pair but not so. I can't remove the mounting hardware without getting destructive and can't find anything with the same mount assembly for these made in sweeden bosch lights(a horizontal bolt which mounts through a barrel on the light assembly). Anyone know where I can get some of these? I don't care if they are bosch - just that they mount the same. IPD only sells the bulb enclosure and I need the whole light assembly.
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Dec 6, 2010 23:05
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I've had an itch to get another 240 or older model and it's not going away. I'm thinking 240 because I want to drive it year round and it seems like it would just be wrong to DD any older vintage in the salt belt. Actually, I sometimes get the same angst from daily driving my current 240 in this environment - they seem to be on the cusp. Does anyone else get this with 240's? One of the cars for sale in my area is a 75 240 wagon. It has a B20 engine which is described as fuel injected. Wikipedia tells me that this engine was also used on a 6" howitzer - a selling point, no? The car is described as running very poorly and probably can't be driven away. What is the reputation/part availability for these engines - is this the hateful fuel injection system that Lloyd was talking about somewhere earlier? Are body/chassis/interior parts on this car usually interchangeable with later models? Another is a 69 164 that I mentioned before that needs at least a carb rebuild to run properly. I am not sure how excited I am by this model. There was also a 1960 PV544 on craigslist. It sounded like a basket case and a tree had fallen on it. It was gone within a day and I am glad that it didn't stick around to tempt me. I can't imagine the cost of restoring one of those.
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Jan 6, 2011 21:15
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82Daion posted:The '89 has a galvanized body, so it'll probably be good to go for quite a few years yet; the '81 does not I did not know that. Do you know when they started to galvanize? 82Daion posted:I worry about my current car rusting a little bit, but a good wash every couple weeks does a fine job of keeping the salt from building up too much. I am beginning to form the opinion that frequent winter washing does more harm than good - at least where I live. If the road ever gets clear and dry for a significant period of time then maybe it would make sense. This year those conditions have not been present since well before thanksgiving when they started throwing down salt. 82Daion posted:If you're looking for a cruiser, it could work out well (assuming, again, that it's not been completely let go). 
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Jan 7, 2011 20:09
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My neighbor, who works at a sketchy used car lot, brought a 740 home for lunch. I was asking him about it and he said it was a 6 cyl. This caught my attention. I didn't bother him to look under the hood but I assume this is a PRV v6. Wikipedia doesn't list the inline 6 as an option on the 740. Is this correct? I know the early PRV's were terrible, terrible lumps of metal. Were the later PRVs ever any good? He said this one had ~200k mi. on it. A wagon with a 6 cyl seems like an interesting proposition.
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Feb 2, 2011 20:00
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As spring approaches, I find myself contemplating fanciful projects that in all likelihood I will never do. Currently, that project involves getting a late model 245 and making it a little bit faster. Before I start any serious research, I'd be interested in any opinions on cost efficient/simple approaches to this.I don't think my chances of finding a stock turbo motor are very good so it seems to me that my options are transplanting another type of non-stock engine or turbo-charging a b230. My mechanically competent friend says stick a SBC in it - but that's his answer to just about anything. I'm not interested in building a rocket and I'd like to DD it so the mpg of a SBC isn't especially enticing. I'd also really like to do manual transmission as well. Maybe there is some domestic 6cyl that would fit the bill? Any ideas? A more realistic project on my list is to finally get around to dealing with my dented DS fender. I don't think it will pull out and it has been repaired before because there is already some mud under the paint. I figure I have three options: repair and spray the current one, find a local straight one in a yard and have it sprayed or find an out of state fender in the right color and have it shipped. I got a quote from revolvo or revolve(?) for the correct fender at about $300 shipped. Any thoughts on this? Btw - my neighbors 740 was not a 6 - he was apparently confused. I did drive it a bit though and thought it was good despite being an automatic. Its too bad that the body styling fails to do anything for me.
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Feb 13, 2011 20:52
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Thanks for the input - my expectations/pipe-dreams have become more realistic. I have seen people on ebay selling 200s that they have put 10k+ into and have always wondered how or why someone would do that. After thinking this through a bit more now I see.Abominable! posted:Might as well keep your eye out for a non-running 7xx/9xx. Nab the entire car for parts. This would be the easiest, less fabrication route. I thought of a 3800 also - but I don't know if that will play nice with MT and I was not sure if it was RWD. Re: 7xx/9xx turbo - were you suggesting that this would be a good candidate for transplanting into a 200 or, like TheJeffers, that 7xx/9xx is a better starting point for the whole car? Abominable! posted:Stock turbo motors shouldn't be that tough to find. I check my local craigslist fairly often and have seen only 1 turbo in the last year (a cheap 740 that I should have jumped on). Where would a guy have better luck finding a rwd turbo engine with or without the rest of the car? TheJeffers posted:Your best approach (IMO) would be to avoid the 240 entirely and find a nice late-model ('90 or later) 740/760/940 Turbo to use as a starting point. Yeah, this. I really wish the 7/9 styling would start growing on me - it really hasn't and it not for lack of trying. For some reason, every time I see a beige 7xx it reminds me that I briefly owned a BL Mini-Metro   TheJeffers posted:you'll probably have to work out a pedalbox TheJeffers posted:The AW71 automatic transmission that came in most of these cars, on the other hand, is quite durable for applications around 200-300 horsepower. Would a M46,M47 or M90 do ok with around 200hp? ch1mp fucked around with this message at 19:28 on Feb 16, 2011 |
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Feb 16, 2011 19:26
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Xovaan posted:My car! It runs! Abominable! posted:Personally I want a late model 240 with a late model turbo motor, which would best be accomplished with a 7/9 series turbo parts car. Pretty much plug and play, as well. Abominable! posted:Also, does anyone in the Minnesota twin cities area have a recommendation for a shop that has experience with 850s in case id rather not wrench on it myself?? ch1mp fucked around with this message at 20:04 on Feb 17, 2011 |
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Feb 17, 2011 19:57
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Been away for a while and am now the owner of a 1982 242 Turbo with an M46 transmission. It successfully completed the inaugural journey to it's temporary home close to the Mexican border yesterday - 300 miles through the New Mexico desert. Some time in the next few months I plan to drive it 1500 miles north. It has 155K miles. The car is basically straight - there is some rust on both rear quarter panels and the paint has been baked into primer in the sun. Interior is mostly intact but faded and grubby. The dash is cracked into a million pieces and has a bad after market piece of molded carpet on it.The console is kind of loose from being removed and the speakers and stereo look like there were installed with framing nails. The engine does not idle well and it runs very rough at low rpms when vacuum (as displayed by the after market boost gauge) is high and gets better when you give it gas and vacuum drops to below 10. I drove it nearly the whole 300 miles at around 80 mph and it seemed to run well at that speed but going slow through towns was almost unbearable due to the stuttering and hesitation. It has K-jet fuel injection. When warm, the idle will modulate rhythmically between 500 and 1500 at a regular 1-2 second interval. About half way through the trip the smell of mothball scented gas was distinct from under the hood although I do not think that bad gas is the main problem. I got a little over 20mpg (estimated because I immediately broke the odometer by resetting it while moving). Although I have an 89 240, I am clueless on turbos and k-jet. Even with these problems, it is hard not to smile when the turbo spools up. I will post more on the car later but right now does this engine condition have an obvious solution to anyone - or at least a shortlist of culprits? I need to read on Kjet to see how it measures air - it seems like a low air to fuel thing to me.    
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Jul 12, 2011 01:19
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