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Bouillon Rube
Aug 6, 2009


lol what the gently caress?

assuming an average speed of 45mph that’s nearly 5 hours a day scooting

my man is living the dream :)

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Danknificent
Nov 20, 2015

Jinkies! Looks like we've got a mystery on our hands.
I took my metropolitan in for its first service today. 500 miles! :toot:

Cached Money
Apr 11, 2010

Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:

Anyone have thoughts on what's the best mileage tire for a 3.50-10? We got an absolute lunatic of a customer here with a Buddy 125 who just wore his Michelin S83 through the cord and blew it out over 3000 miles in 2 weeks. Would like to recommend him something longer lasting. I think I've seen Shinko 009s last longer than that maybe but not much.

Michelin City Grip maybe? I haven't had them on for very long but they still look brand new after a couple of months.

BTW is this the same guy you've posted about before who's driving around doing photography basically racking up enough mileage on a 50cc scooter to go around the world in a single summer?

Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester
Oct 3, 2000

Cached Money posted:

Michelin City Grip maybe? I haven't had them on for very long but they still look brand new after a couple of months.

BTW is this the same guy you've posted about before who's driving around doing photography basically racking up enough mileage on a 50cc scooter to go around the world in a single summer?
I can't find city grips in 100/90-10 though or I would have gone for that.

And yeah this dude did 10k on an unmodified Roughhouse 50 in one summer. I think he said he was going for 20k on the B125.

Edit: oh I dunno what was wrong with my eyes, yeah they got 100/90-10. Ordering those.

Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester fucked around with this message at 01:26 on Aug 13, 2021

Gay Nudist Dad
Dec 12, 2006

asshole on a scooter

Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:

I can't find city grips in 100/90-10 though or I would have gone for that.

And yeah this dude did 10k on an unmodified Roughhouse 50 in one summer. I think he said he was going for 20k on the B125.

Edit: oh I dunno what was wrong with my eyes, yeah they got 100/90-10. Ordering those.

I'll second City Grips if 100/90-10 is a close enough match for 3.5x10. I have them on my Zuma 125 in (120/70x12 and 130/70x12) and got 8k out of a rear before a nail did it in and it had tons of tread left and was in good shape (not flattening out or cupping too bad) and have probably 12k on the front, which at this point should be replaced due to age, but is also still in great shape.

CheddarGoblin
Jan 12, 2005
oh
The spark plug chat from a couple pages back inspired me to check mine. I never did any real tuning after installing the cylinder kit/exhaust on my vespa (4 stroke, fuel-injected), I just set the provided injection controller to the map specified in the manual for my particular mods and left the low/middle/high adjustment knobs in their default position. The exhaust at idle definitely smells richer to me than stock, though I'm not sure if that's just because there's no cat in the aftermarket exhaust like their was in stock.

Can I get a sanity check on this plug? The electrode and insulator are clean but the threaded part is quite sooty. Google results vary quite a bit on what a 'normal' plug should look like.

Bi-la kaifa
Feb 4, 2011

Space maggots.

There's a 78 Puch magnum xk for sale for $250. Are any of you familiar with something like that? I offered the guy $200 and a case of beer and as long as I pick it up before Monday it's mine. Doesn't run but by the sounds of it it just needs some fresh gas and a carb clean.

Cached Money
Apr 11, 2010

Bi-la kaifa posted:

There's a 78 Puch magnum xk for sale for $250. Are any of you familiar with something like that? I offered the guy $200 and a case of beer and as long as I pick it up before Monday it's mine. Doesn't run but by the sounds of it it just needs some fresh gas and a carb clean.

Go for it, sounds good.

Bouillon Rube
Aug 6, 2009


Update on the Zuma: I replaced the reed valve assembly and all of the carb gaskets. On my initial check, it seems to be running lean without the airbox installed (it won’t idle without the airbox, but seems to idle and rev fine if I lightly put my hand over the air intake side of the carb). So it seems like the richness has been fixed? I’ll know for sure once the scooter is actually reassembled.

Bouillon Rube
Aug 6, 2009


So the Zuma seems to have gone from running very rich to very lean- it will only idle if I almost completely plug the airbox side of the carb.

Is it possible that I reassembled the choke incorrectly?

Also, I noticed that the position of the washer (circled in red) affects the position of the throttle needle, moving it up and down. What position is it supposed to be in? The service manual doesn’t even mention this adjustment.

Slide Hammer
May 15, 2009

Bouillon Rube posted:

So the Zuma seems to have gone from running very rich to very lean- it will only idle if I almost completely plug the airbox side of the carb.

Is it possible that I reassembled the choke incorrectly?

Also, I noticed that the position of the washer (circled in red) affects the position of the throttle needle, moving it up and down. What position is it supposed to be in? The service manual doesn’t even mention this adjustment.



The long nut looks like an adjusting nut for the throttle slack. If it's so tight that it's actually opening the throttle, it shouldn't be! Check the throttle while you're doing this. Is there any slack in it? It should have a small amount of slack when the handlebars and front wheel are centered.

By the way, when I say "slack", I mean that the twist grip should feel a smidge loose, like you can twist it 1/4" without it actually pulling on the throttle cable. The reason that this adjuster exists, is because the body of the throttle cable gets pulled very slightly when the handlebars turn. You want enough slack in the cable such that the cable doesn't actuate the throttle, even though its body is getting yanked around.

Slide Hammer fucked around with this message at 06:35 on Aug 24, 2021

Bouillon Rube
Aug 6, 2009


Ok. I fixed the throttle adjustment but still having the same issue- it dies as soon as I apply any throttle unless the air intake is almost completely plugged. The new reed valve assembly is nice and snug, as is the carb.

I’m thinking it’s the crank seals; if that’s the case I might need to give the scooter away as it seems like a huge project :(

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F5LQL1iXHRQ

Bouillon Rube fucked around with this message at 21:41 on Aug 24, 2021

Cached Money
Apr 11, 2010

Bouillon Rube posted:

Ok. I fixed the throttle adjustment but still having the same issue- it dies as soon as I apply any throttle unless the air intake is almost completely plugged. The new reed valve assembly is nice and snug, as is the carb.

I’m thinking it’s the crank seals; if that’s the case I might need to give the scooter away as it seems like a huge project :(

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F5LQL1iXHRQ

Is it the same if you put the air box back? Also replacing crank seals is pretty easy, much like everything else on a scooter, there aren't really any super complicated things to repair on a simple 2 stroke engine like that.

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




Lots of two stroke motors let you do crank seals without splitting the cases. It can be as easy as lust taking a cover off the motor, yanking the old seal with a pick and putting the new one in.

My 72 Suzuki allows this, so a much more modern engine like yours shouldn’t be much worse.

Don’t send it down the river until you know what a crank seal replacement actually takes on that engine.

Cached Money
Apr 11, 2010

It's a vertical minarelli so you'll probably have to take off the CVT and the flywheel + magneto on the other side. Then you can take the old seals out with a pick or by screwing a wood screw into the old one and pulling it out, then use a pipe to hammer the new ones into position. There are videos on YouTube on how to do it.

Phy
Jun 27, 2008



Fun Shoe

Cached Money posted:

a vertical minarelli

It's time to play "Engine or scam George Clooney and Brad Pitt talked about in an Ocean's movie"

Bouillon Rube
Aug 6, 2009


Cached Money posted:

Is it the same if you put the air box back? Also replacing crank seals is pretty easy, much like everything else on a scooter, there aren't really any super complicated things to repair on a simple 2 stroke engine like that.

Yeah, the airbox does nothing. I’ve also done a spark test and checked the exhaust gasket; so I don’t know what else it could possibly be.

Scooter Swap Shop actually has a good video for changing the seals on Prebug Zuma’s, it seems a little tricky but not THAT bad.

Geekboy
Aug 21, 2005

Now that's what I call a geekMAN!
I put over 100 miles in on my Royal Alloy 150 on Sunday and it's both clear to me that this bike is really well sized for me (even with my bum hip that I've been working on, a stop and stretch and I was good to go to head home) and that a 150 just isn't enough to really tour with. I love this bike a lot and am still waffling on whether to just make it my city rider and pick up an ADV bike or something similar when I have some cash or to leave this thing stock and trade it in towards a 300 whenever they become available.

I've been riding it around a ton before that too, but on shorter trips. I wanted to be sure the engine was nice and broke in before I kept it at high throttle for long-ish distances.

GuestBob
Nov 27, 2005

Jim Silly-Balls posted:

It can be as easy as lust taking a cover off the motor, yanking the old seal with a pick and putting the new one in.

This is the sexiest quote from a Haynes manual I have ever read.

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




With the right attitude every line of a Haynes manual is sexy

Slide Hammer
May 15, 2009

Installation... is the reverse of removal. ;-)

Megabook
Mar 13, 2019



Grimey Drawer
Clean the flange with a stiff wire brush ;-)

Bouillon Rube
Aug 6, 2009


Another week, another Zuma problem :)

I replaced both of the crank seals and put everything back together….but now the starter motor seems really weak and can’t overcome the magnetic field on the stator (so the magneto can’t do a full rotation and the scooter won’t start). The magneto just moves very slowly and get itself stuck after 1/3 of a turn or so.

Kick starting doesn’t do anything either; it turns over but no spark or ignition

Any ideas?

Cached Money
Apr 11, 2010

Bouillon Rube posted:

Another week, another Zuma problem :)

I replaced both of the crank seals and put everything back together….but now the starter motor seems really weak and can’t overcome the magnetic field on the stator (so the magneto can’t do a full rotation and the scooter won’t start). The magneto just moves very slowly and get itself stuck after 1/3 of a turn or so.

Kick starting doesn’t do anything either; it turns over but no spark or ignition

Any ideas?

Check so that everything you took apart is installed correctly again, considering you don't get any spark (have you checked this with the spark plug removed?) something related to the magneto is probably installed wrong because that is what supplies the power to the ignition coil and triggers the ignition.

Bouillon Rube
Aug 6, 2009


I’ve taken apart and reassembled the stator a few times and don’t really see anything wrong with it, and all of the wires still seem to connect to it.

I’m hearing a loud ticking (or whining if I hold the ignition down) from this little (fuse?) box. Is it possible that I shorted something out while messing with the generator assembly and hosed up a fuse?

dougdrums
Feb 25, 2005
CLIENT REQUESTED ELECTRONIC FUNDING RECEIPT (FUNDS NOW)
I’m not sure about the rest of it, but that’s a relay, so the clicking part makes sense.

Bouillon Rube
Aug 6, 2009


Huh, ok. An issue with the stator wouldn’t keep the flywheel from spinning though, right? Wouldn’t that be the starter motor? But shouldn’t kick starting still work with fucky starter motor?

Gay Nudist Dad
Dec 12, 2006

asshole on a scooter

Bouillon Rube posted:

Another week, another Zuma problem :)

I replaced both of the crank seals and put everything back together….but now the starter motor seems really weak and can’t overcome the magnetic field on the stator (so the magneto can’t do a full rotation and the scooter won’t start). The magneto just moves very slowly and get itself stuck after 1/3 of a turn or so.

Kick starting doesn’t do anything either; it turns over but no spark or ignition

Any ideas?

Is the starter motor weak, or is the battery dead? The latter seems way more likely and a relay clicking but the starter not spinning fast enough is pretty classic weak battery.

Kick starting shouldn't be impacted by a bad/dead battery, but depending on how that electrical system is setup it's not impossible.

Does the effort to kick it over seem any different? Like if something was reinstalled wrong that caused extra friction, enough that the starter (with a strong battery) couldn't overcome it, you should feel that when kicking.

Geekboy
Aug 21, 2005

Now that's what I call a geekMAN!
Reddit is terrible, but I love to see people I don’t have to feel bad for making choices.

open24hours
Jan 7, 2001

I'm getting my scooter serviced today and they gave me this 300 as a loaner. Holy hell, this thing rules.
https://i.imgur.com/2NRO3AH.jpg

Looking at Vespas now and I found this Christian Dior 946. I wish I was rich.
https://www.vespa.com/au_EN/vespa-world/news/vespa-946-christian-dior/

open24hours fucked around with this message at 01:18 on Oct 26, 2021

Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester
Oct 3, 2000
https://advrider.com/justin-bieber-...tent=12_21_2021

quote:

Stay tuned for the 2022 unveiling of an exciting new collaboration between two contemporary global icons: Justin Bieber and Vespa.

open24hours
Jan 7, 2001

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LKx87D6xqXA

rally
Nov 19, 2002

yospos
Can anyone point me toward a good parts checklist and guide for upgrading a genuine roughhouse and buddy 50cc to 70cc?

Cached Money
Apr 11, 2010

rally posted:

Can anyone point me toward a good parts checklist and guide for upgrading a genuine roughhouse and buddy 50cc to 70cc?

Something like this: https://www.scootertuning.ca/en/engine-package-sport/80010-engine-package-malossi-sport-70cc-genuine-pgo.html

If you want to go cheaper, just get a cast iron cylinder kit, DR for example is great value, some lighter CVT weights and carb jets.

Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester
Oct 3, 2000
I did a 70 + pipe + CVT kit on a Roughhouse once and the thing would pull wheelies and go like 55mph. It was insane.

Coydog
Mar 5, 2007


Fallen Rib
That's intriguing considering that it looks good and only costs 2 grand new. A rad scoot for fire roads and local errands would be great, but is it "the only scooter in its class that is as tough as it looks.". Because I half suspect it's a chinese grade scooter that will fall apart on it's own.

Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester
Oct 3, 2000
Talking about Roughhouses? Their production is a little lacking in niceties like the manual has a different name on it and some of the name badges are not long-lived stickers. Lots of plastics. In that sense it's not Honda level. But the reliability is top notch in my opinion. We see more problems with Metros and Ruckuses than Buddy 50s and RH50s. And they can also be modded to go hella fast. And they're Taiwanese, for what it's worth.

Slide Hammer
May 15, 2009

Have you had any Navis in yet? Or are they still too new. Those are also about $2000 new, but they have 100cc. Not strictly a scooter though, because of the riding position.

Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester
Oct 3, 2000
I still don't even see Groms all that often, haven't seen a Monkey or a new Super Cub, so no, imagining I won't see one for a while. Very odd bike, I'm interested in seeing how well they sell. I'm skeptical.

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HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

stomp clap


If you were looking for a 49cc project scooter, maybe not a complete basket case but in need of some work, what models would you look for and what would you absolutely avoid?
There are Tao Taos, Kymcos, odd Honda’s, and the occasional Genuine around me in my potential budget.

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