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1337JiveTurkey
Feb 17, 2005



College Slice

my1999gsr posted:

Did this really happen to you? If it did, would you mind telling me what dealership it was?

It happened to me on Friday just before they closed, I was in a rush and this isn't the first time the car alarm went off like that. I didn't find out about the glass until I got to my destination when I heard something rattling in the back. Their service department closed by then and they disabled voice mail so I wasn't able to call them and I'd like to discuss it with them before naming names.

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General_Failure
Apr 17, 2005


KillerFuzzball posted:

This might be going a bit far back in time for this thread, but what are you guys' opinions about working on this thing? Worth it?



Of course it is worth it. Don't be silly. They are ugly, utilitarian, wonderful cars. Also that interior looks pretty good. Just beware the cancer.

Somewhat Hairy Ape
Apr 15, 2010


my1999gsr posted:

I can honestly say that carbon build up on the TDI is non-issue unless you're using it as a super-short trim vehicle. From time to time carbon can interfere with shut down flap operation but it's so simple to clean and it so seldom happens that I wouldn't even think about it. We've got several 300,000 km+ TDI cars that are regular customers that haven't had an issue. The one thing I will say about the TDI is that it really, really needs to be driven hard once in a while - get on the highway and wind it out a little bit to blow out some of the soot.

Sorry, I should have been more specific, I was referring to the gasoline DI engines such as FSI/TFSI. Any opinions on those?

Commodore 64
Apr 2, 2007

The sky was the color of a television tuned to a dead channel that was orange


ManMythLegend posted:

I'm glad this thread popped up because I'm looking at buying a Jetta TDI. Kind of like Hairy Ape I'm trying to get a feel for what I have to look forward to if I do. I've read tons of reviews and such, but I'd really like to hear from folks how deal with them every day. How is the long term reliability? Are there any weird gremlins that have shown up after everyday use? I guess, in general, was it a good purchase?

I bought an 05 Golf TDi with 72K on it this past January and I have to say I love every minute driving. My fuel economy is around 37-40mpg (I also have a lead foot), there is tons of space, the interior is nice and roomy, the ride is smooth and the handling is very responsive. Top it off the engine is logically laid out and everything is pretty easy to work on. It may have 100hp under the hood, but 180 lbs of torque really is a blast.

I'd say it was a good purchase, but there are some gremlins to watch for. The ride height is low, the oil pan sits below the subframe and is made of thin aluminum. VW corrected this, but beware in earlier MKIV's; budget in a Diesegeek skid plate or a redesigned VW oil pan. The master door module, drivers side, can break and that's a $250 part. Also beware of the thermostatic valve in changing the fuel filter and not every auto parts store carries VW spec 505.01 oil.

Check out TDIclub or myturbodiesel.com. They go into much greater depth.

Nuclear Tourist
Apr 7, 2005

L'absinthe, c'est la mort!

my1999gsr posted:

I wish I could help you but there's so few Mk1 cars left in my area (rust belt) that I've only had experience with a handful. Still, check the basic stuff like cap and rotor and plugs because it sounds like you have some kind of ignition problem. Maybe one of the other goons has some input here.

Alright I'll do that, thanks anyway!

star trek extra credit
Jun 3, 2007


I've never found the Mk4s to be that bad, really. My Jetta VR6 has 170,000k miles on it and it still drives like new. All the windows still work, too, and there's no check engine light. You do have to watch out for door modules, as they break and you're effectively required to lock/unlock the car remotely, rather than with the key.

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009


Somewhat Hairy Ape posted:

Sorry, I should have been more specific, I was referring to the gasoline DI engines such as FSI/TFSI. Any opinions on those?

Ah ok! Well, the direct injection gasolin engines have some good and bad points so I'll go through a few of each.

The 2.0t FSI engines are smooth and powerful and they get pretty good fuel mileage too. Sadly, the earlier BPY-code engines have had a very poor track record for oil consumption - I've replaced 3 engines under warranty so far for it and and as a group my shop has replaced 6-9 of them since launch and 2 of those brand new motors have started consuming oil too. Audi has a TSB about the issue that says oil consumption of .5 L of oil per 1000 kms is acceptable throughout the life of the vehicle. Keeping in mind that the service interval is 15,000 kms, if your vehicle were consuming oil at that rate then your oil pan would be empty before your first oil change. On the good side, the newer, CCTA-code 2.0t FSI-TFSI engines don't seem to have any oil consumption issues so far and we've had few complaints about them in the Audis or VW products.

If you're interested in the larger displacement DI gas engines, then that's where carbon build-up is somewhat of an issue. Of the 3 RS4s that we have (with the 4.2 FSI V8) 2 of them have had to have their heads pulled and de-coked under warrantee for poor valve seating. Since those engines are a little more rare, I don't have as large a pool of info to take from but it must have been pretty discouraging for the owners of a $100,000+ GT sedan to have their car down for 3 days while we tore down the top of the engine.

Autism Monday
Mar 18, 2005

anime comes to life and kisses me on the lips

Are MKVI 2.0 engines CCTA? How can I check which engine I have?

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!

Why wont VW address the failing cams in the BRM TDIs? The service manager denies that they ever fail but the parts desk guy tells me they have done about a dozen cars so far.

Also could you please define a leak from VWs standpoint. Apparently the transmissions were supposed to soak everything around them in gear lube, they cleaned it with a rag and charged me $50 (not covered under warranty?) to tell me that its not leaking.

I love the cars but not the ownership experience.

Autism Monday
Mar 18, 2005

anime comes to life and kisses me on the lips

Never mind, looks like all GTIs in CA are CBFA due to CARB. my1999gsr, do newer CBFAs have the same oil consumption issues or has that been fixed by now?

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009


Autism Sundae posted:

Never mind, looks like all GTIs in CA are CBFA due to CARB. my1999gsr, do newer CBFAs have the same oil consumption issues or has that been fixed by now?

I can't say for sure on the CBFA motor since we don't get it where I am. I'll check VW ServiceNet. OK, it appears that the oil consumption measurement for the CBFA motor is a little different than the other motors but nothing really specific. In general, if the engine code has 4 letters - CBFA for instance, then oil consumption hasn't been a problem.

wav3form
Aug 10, 2008


Autism Sundae posted:

^^^^^ What do you have, a Jetta?


What does it sound/feel like when the secondary pump comes on?

It's fairly loud - like a loud fan sound. When it shuts down you'll hear a high pitched vacuum-like sound that tapers off. It really should only come on when the car is cold anyway.

empty baggie
Oct 22, 2003



Lipstick Apathy

VanFullOfMidgets posted:

I've never found the Mk4s to be that bad, really. My Jetta VR6 has 170,000k miles on it and it still drives like new. All the windows still work, too, and there's no check engine light. You do have to watch out for door modules, as they break and you're effectively required to lock/unlock the car remotely, rather than with the key.

Ha, the door modules were the only thing on my MKIV Jetta that didn't go wrong.

Ok, I'm in Paris right now, and I keep seeing Golfs and Polos, and I have to ask, what exactly is the main difference that VW uses to justify selling two compact hatchbacks in the same market? I'm sure there's a real difference, but aside from a few cosmetic things, visually I can't tell.

And yes, I know in the states there's the Golf/Rabbit and GTI (two compact hatchbacks in the same market), but I'm aware of the difference there.

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009


SpeedFreek posted:

Why wont VW address the failing cams in the BRM TDIs? The service manager denies that they ever fail but the parts desk guy tells me they have done about a dozen cars so far.

Also could you please define a leak from VWs standpoint. Apparently the transmissions were supposed to soak everything around them in gear lube, they cleaned it with a rag and charged me $50 (not covered under warranty?) to tell me that its not leaking.

I love the cars but not the ownership experience.

Interesting... I haven't seen a camshaft replacement in any of our diesels at all. The only VAG engines I've seen that eat cams (and high-pressure fuel pumps) were some of the early run 2.0t engines in Passats and A4s. That was due to a manufacturing problem with the cams (very much like the early 80's 305ci GM camshaft issues - cam lobe material was too soft) and I have done several of those.

VW/Audi warranty is often... difficult. They've been seriously cracking down on the dealerships for warranty claims. The dealerships cope with that by hitting the customer for the cost of things that used to be covered. Having said that, the dealership service department has a certain amount of leeway or "goodwill" that they can extend to a customer in cases like yours. Obviously you're not happy with the service (who would be?) so it might be worth your time to call the customer service hotline for VW and see if they can help - they're usually very good at dealing with things like this. Also, if your leak returns then you can ask for your $50 back because the problem wasn't repaired.

VW/Audi dealerships have a couple of stats they use to determine how a dealership is doing: one is CSI - Customer Service Index. The CSI is based on customer feedback that the dealership is obliged to collect and send to VW/Audi America/Canada and corporate watches that number VERY closely. The other stat is FRFT - Fixed Right, First Time. FRFT is exactly what it says: when a warranty claim that is submitted, corporate tracks the vehicle. If another warranty claim for the same part or problem is submitted then we get a call from the auditor informing us that we're on the hook for the parts, diag and labor. I pass this on to you because given the nature of your difficulties, your complaints fall under one of those (CSI) and potentially under the other (FRFT).

EDIT: After digging around in my files I did find a cam-related BRM failure: A BRM code engine came in with a destroyed head because the lifter faces had been hammered to pieces. That's literally the only one I've ever seen do that though. A little digging around in the interwebs tells me that there have been other owners with similar problems but from what I can tell it's not a widespread problem. If VW handles it anything like they did with the 1.8T engines, as long as you have your service records up to date, they should (emphasis on "should") be able to replace the damaged components under a goodwill claim.

my1999gsr fucked around with this message at 15:52 on May 2, 2010

tehllama
Apr 29, 2009

Hook, swing.

So now I noticed today that the strut dust boot for the drivers side strut has torn and fallen down, exposing the strut itself. I'm duct taping it up for now, but I'd like to replace it when I get the chance. I can't find one for my specific year from an online retailer, what're the chances that one designed for a '97 will fit?

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009


tehllama posted:

So now I noticed today that the strut dust boot for the drivers side strut has torn and fallen down, exposing the strut itself. I'm duct taping it up for now, but I'd like to replace it when I get the chance. I can't find one for my specific year from an online retailer, what're the chances that one designed for a '97 will fit?

Hmmm. It's a crap-shoot if a 97 would work. I want to say it will, but I'm not sure. If you like, I can talk to my parts desk tomorrow and see.

Sorry tehllama - we were slammed all day and I didn't have a chance to ask my parts guy for a PT number for the HID bulb or the dust boot. I'll try tomorrow!

my1999gsr fucked around with this message at 00:24 on May 4, 2010

Autism Monday
Mar 18, 2005

anime comes to life and kisses me on the lips

Is there a way to see which VW dealerships are good and which are not in a given area? I've been trying to get some hatch rattle issues fixed for a while now and apparently a local dealership that I've been to broke some plastic trim piece in the trunk (which was pointed out to me by another dealership).

ManMythLegend
Aug 18, 2003

I don't believe in anything, I'm just here for the violence.


Thanks for all of the information everyone. I appreciate it.

my1999gsr posted:

What year of Jetta are you thinking about? The last 2 generations have a few different gremlins to consider. Every customer we have in a diesel Golf, Jetta, Touareg or Q7 LOVE them.

I'm looking at the 2010 Jetta, though I'm still a few months away from buying one so the 2011's might be out.

I'm glad that they have a really positive reputation with the folks driving them.

Jovian
May 21, 2003

Give me a hug!

I have a 2.0T FSI BPY engine that probably has its tumbler flap on the way our or already gone. If I start driving soon after starting the car I never get these codes.

012600 - Intake Manifold Runner Control: Regulation Deviation
P3138 - 008 - Implausible Signal - MIL ON
008200 - Intake Manifold Flap; Bank 1: Electrical Malfunction
P2008 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:

Currently I am in a crappy situation where I moved away from friends with driveways and live in a community so I cant do much if any work on the car myself. So what would replacing something like this cost to replace?

So from what I understand its only really needed for cold idle, what issues may occur if I don't replace this?

quote:

The only VAG engines I've seen that eat cams (and high-pressure fuel pumps) were some of the early run 2.0t engines in Passats and A4s.
Haha yup this an the PCV system are very annoying but still love this engine.

tehllama
Apr 29, 2009

Hook, swing.

my1999gsr posted:

Hmmm. It's a crap-shoot if a 97 would work. I want to say it will, but I'm not sure. If you like, I can talk to my parts desk tomorrow and see.

That'd be great. It's either that or I get the dealership to order one, but I'm assuming I'll get charged something outrageous.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006


ManMythLegend posted:

I'm looking at the 2010 Jetta, though I'm still a few months away from buying one so the 2011's might be out.

One thing to consider is if you really don't need the latest and greatest system, but still want to buy new, that once the 2011's hit then the dealerships will be desperate to clear their 2010 inventory. You can get great deals on last years model that is lingering at a dealership if you are willing to shop around a bit.

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009


Jovian posted:

I have a 2.0T FSI BPY engine that probably has its tumbler flap on the way our or already gone. If I start driving soon after starting the car I never get these codes.

012600 - Intake Manifold Runner Control: Regulation Deviation
P3138 - 008 - Implausible Signal - MIL ON
008200 - Intake Manifold Flap; Bank 1: Electrical Malfunction
P2008 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:

Currently I am in a crappy situation where I moved away from friends with driveways and live in a community so I cant do much if any work on the car myself. So what would replacing something like this cost to replace?

So from what I understand its only really needed for cold idle, what issues may occur if I don't replace this?

Haha yup this an the PCV system are very annoying but still love this engine.

There's a TSB for this and here's how it works: You go to the dealership, they pull the codes. There's an RVU (Recommended Vehicle Update) ECU reflash that's specifically for the faults you have and I see it ALL THE TIME. So, you get the flash update, the faults are erased and off you go. If the fault(s) return or the basic settings can't be performed (this would be done after checking/updating the ECU), you usually get a new Intake manifold flap motor V157 but that will depend on what kind of warranty you have.

I just checked the TSBs for your engine as I read this and there's still a Tech Bulletin about it - 2016868/4.

Originally, VW/Audi had a recall for these faults called the CH campaign so your car might have already had the update but the dealership has to check the software level of the module and see if it's up to date before replacing the flap motor. You can call your local Audi dealer's service department, give them your VIN and they can check to see if the update/recall has already been performed.

Nait Sirhc
Sep 11, 2001


Why are the oil pans on 2001.5+ V6 Passats such piles of poo poo? My girlfriend and her sister each have one of these cars, and both of them have dented/scratched oil pans (to the point where they start leaking). (GF is on pan #3, sister on pan #2) They aren't driving like poo poo either, I've been in the car once when she's cracked a pan and it was barely a scrape, going 10mph over a speedbump.

They're only $55 from FCPGroton but it's annoying to have to keep replacing these. There is no OEM skidplate, is there some kind of solution to this?

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009


Nait Sirhc posted:

Why are the oil pans on 2001.5+ V6 Passats such piles of poo poo? My girlfriend and her sister each have one of these cars, and both of them have dented/scratched oil pans (to the point where they start leaking). (GF is on pan #3, sister on pan #2) They aren't driving like poo poo either, I've been in the car once when she's cracked a pan and it was barely a scrape, going 10mph over a speedbump.

They're only $55 from FCPGroton but it's annoying to have to keep replacing these. There is no OEM skidplate, is there some kind of solution to this?

I've never replaced a pan on any Passat ever. The Passats all have a rather large sound baffle/belly pan but it's only plastic so the protection it gives the oil pan is minimal. Honestly, not to be a dick here but if your GF and sister have damaged multiple oil pans on 2 different Passats I'd be looking a little closer at their driving habits or the environment that they drive in most because, for the most part, the pans in the Passat have proven very durable.

DogDodger
Nov 19, 2006

Hellcat likes it rough.

my1999gsr posted:

If you're interested in the larger displacement DI gas engines, then that's where carbon build-up is somewhat of an issue. Of the 3 RS4s that we have (with the 4.2 FSI V8) 2 of them have had to have their heads pulled and de-coked under warrantee for poor valve seating. Since those engines are a little more rare, I don't have as large a pool of info to take from but it must have been pretty discouraging for the owners of a $100,000+ GT sedan to have their car down for 3 days while we tore down the top of the engine.

Yep. The RS 4 forum over on quattroworld.com is jokingly referred to as the carbon buildup forum now. Dyno plots taken before and after cleanups seem to indicate a loss of ~10 hp per 10,000 miles due to carbon buildup. It's distressing, but I'd be more pissed if I owned an R8.

Autism Monday
Mar 18, 2005

anime comes to life and kisses me on the lips

Hey my1999gsr, I have a strange issue with my MKVI GTI (which I'm not even sure is an issue..) I've asked about it on VW forums and here, and took the car to dealers to see what they could do but nothing so far, maybe you can help me out.

My GTI randomly shudders/vibrates at idle. It's pretty slight, so if I have my stereo turned up I can barely feel it if at all, but I definitely notice it. It's weird and hard to describe, feels like a pulse or series of pulses that can be felt through the driver's seat and the brake pedal, sort of like a small earthquake. It's noticeable because the idle is very smooth so every errant vibration really shows.

I tried to figure out some kind of pattern to it but it happens seemingly randomly, engine temperature doesn't seem to matter, I can drive for two hours and still get it at a light. It usually starts after the car idles for 2-4 minutes (longer lights is when I notice it most), but sometimes it happens right away and sometimes doesn't happen at all. The frequency/strength of these shudders is also random, sometimes they are stronger but never to the point of being violent.

RPM needle at idle is usually right below 780, but every once in a while goes down noticeably closer to 760 (it doesn't jump around, just idles a bit lower than usual every once in a while). This doesn't seem to be related to the shudders, just don't know if it's normal or not. No CEL, no strange noises, nothing strange otherwise. Dealer checked it out but I guess they scanned it for codes and couldn't find anything. At this point I feel like an idiot every time I bring it up, and I'm probably being too paranoid/retarded about the whole thing but it just feels wrong. I know that no codes doesn't necessarily mean "nothing's broken".

Another thing: I've read that there was an RVU for early MKVI GTIs and my VIN falls within the range for that update. Any way to find out whether it was performed for my car?

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009


Autism Sundae posted:

Hey my1999gsr, I have a strange issue with my MKVI GTI (which I'm not even sure is an issue..) I've asked about it on VW forums and here, and took the car to dealers to see what they could do but nothing so far, maybe you can help me out.

My GTI randomly shudders/vibrates at idle. It's pretty slight, so if I have my stereo turned up I can barely feel it if at all, but I definitely notice it. It's weird and hard to describe, feels like a pulse or series of pulses that can be felt through the driver's seat and the brake pedal, sort of like a small earthquake. It's noticeable because the idle is very smooth so every errant vibration really shows.

I tried to figure out some kind of pattern to it but it happens seemingly randomly, engine temperature doesn't seem to matter, I can drive for two hours and still get it at a light. It usually starts after the car idles for 2-4 minutes (longer lights is when I notice it most), but sometimes it happens right away and sometimes doesn't happen at all. The frequency/strength of these shudders is also random, sometimes they are stronger but never to the point of being violent.

RPM needle at idle is usually right below 780, but every once in a while goes down noticeably closer to 760 (it doesn't jump around, just idles a bit lower than usual every once in a while). This doesn't seem to be related to the shudders, just don't know if it's normal or not. No CEL, no strange noises, nothing strange otherwise. Dealer checked it out but I guess they scanned it for codes and couldn't find anything. At this point I feel like an idiot every time I bring it up, and I'm probably being too paranoid/retarded about the whole thing but it just feels wrong. I know that no codes doesn't necessarily mean "nothing's broken".

Another thing: I've read that there was an RVU for early MKVI GTIs and my VIN falls within the range for that update. Any way to find out whether it was performed for my car?

There's not much I can tell you about your vibration issue. Is your GTI a stick or auto? Is there ever any noise associated with the shuddering when you feel it? There's nothing wrong with making your concern known when you bring your GTI in for service - it goes on your vehicle's record so if it develops into a problem you have it noted in your service history.

You can call your local VW dealer's service department and ask about your RVU. Once they have your VIN it takes seconds to find out if you're eligible.

DONT DO IT
Jun 5, 2008

this level will be fun guys


I've got a question for you... For whatever reason, my 2000 Audi S4 has been running rich for the past 2 years. It never warms up despite having the thermostat changed (twice!). That would explain why it runs rich.. However, none of the local shops (or even the Audi dealership) have been able to diagnose the root problem. The biggest issue is it starts like rear end whether it is warm or not. As the battery inevitably dies, it just gets harder and harder. But just for fun, if I use ethanol fuel it starts right up. Too bad the ethanol fuel worsens my already terrible fuel mileage and idles like poo poo. It's not water in the tank, as after two bottles of Heet you'd expect some sort of change. It doesn't seem to be carbon buildup either, as I used the three bottles of a $25 dollar per bottle treatment (forgot the brand) as recommended by the last mechanic that worked on it. Any ideas?

All of this crap is why I bought a 400 dollar Volvo.

I sound bitter.

Neon Machete
Dec 30, 2006
yes

Does putting universal green coolant in your 2.7t really damage the engine that badly? Cause I bought one pre-owned and the "G12 ONLY" was rubbed off the expansion tank...now my coolant system is leaking every which place and starts steaming up after five minutes of driving. Did the green stuff eat through all my hoses or what?

Autism Monday
Mar 18, 2005

anime comes to life and kisses me on the lips

my1999gsr posted:

There's not much I can tell you about your vibration issue. Is your GTI a stick or auto? Is there ever any noise associated with the shuddering when you feel it? There's nothing wrong with making your concern known when you bring your GTI in for service - it goes on your vehicle's record so if it develops into a problem you have it noted in your service history.

You can call your local VW dealer's service department and ask about your RVU. Once they have your VIN it takes seconds to find out if you're eligible.

Stick; no noise at all. I was told by dealership techs that it could be some pumps turning on and off but none of them seem to be sure about this, they just say something along the lines of "well there's so much stuff under the hood, it's probably normal". That's the whole thing though, I don't have any experience with these cars to know if it's normal or not. I have no idea how something like this can even be detected if it doesn't throw a CEL, and I know it goes on record but I'd rather not wait until it gets worse. I'm getting an oil change soon so I'll ask the shop tech about it.

When I was at the dealer for vibration issue they told me they found and performed some kind of throttle-body update/reset. The way their service guy explained it to me is that GTI adapts to my driving style over time and it ties into throttle management somehow. Does the ECU really adapt to my driving or was he full of it, and do you have any general info on available MKVI GTI TSBs or updates?

ModernDayDiogenes
Jul 3, 2007
"By and large, language is a tool for concealing the truth." - George Carlin

Nait Sirhc posted:

Why are the oil pans on 2001.5+ V6 Passats such piles of poo poo? My girlfriend and her sister each have one of these cars, and both of them have dented/scratched oil pans (to the point where they start leaking). (GF is on pan #3, sister on pan #2) They aren't driving like poo poo either, I've been in the car once when she's cracked a pan and it was barely a scrape, going 10mph over a speedbump.

They're only $55 from FCPGroton but it's annoying to have to keep replacing these. There is no OEM skidplate, is there some kind of solution to this?

http://www.evolutionimport.com/Thor...a-00003-005.htm

I put one of these on my 2000 V6 a couple of years ago. It's solid and bolts directly into the frame and is a hell of a lot beefier than the crappy plastic splash guard that comes with the car.

That being said, thank you all for this thread. I asked this question a couple of weeks ago and I didn't get any response, so I'll try a different tack - where can I pick up a camshaft adjuster solenoid for my car? Apparently one in mine is going bad, causing my CEL to trip on every couple weeks or so. Unfortunately, the only way I could get one through the dealer is to order the entire camshaft adjuster assembly, and I don't want to pay 700 dollars for a 30 dollar solenoid. Is it time to hit my local junkyards?

edit: To tack on something else: what kind of fitting is used to open up the drain plug on the Passat's transaxle? I'm trying to change my transaxle fluid while I'm changing my CV axles, and the drain plug is a new one for me. It looks like a big triple square fitting with some kind of tamperproof peg in the middle of the hole. my1999gsr, is this a specialty fitting that I would have to pick up at a dealer? Would they even sell it to me?

ModernDayDiogenes fucked around with this message at 03:16 on May 3, 2010

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

He is I, and I am him



empty baggie posted:

Ok, I'm in Paris right now, and I keep seeing Golfs and Polos, and I have to ask, what exactly is the main difference that VW uses to justify selling two compact hatchbacks in the same market? I'm sure there's a real difference, but aside from a few cosmetic things, visually I can't tell.

The Polo is a step smaller.

Commodore 64
Apr 2, 2007

The sky was the color of a television tuned to a dead channel that was orange


Neon Machete posted:

Does putting universal green coolant in your 2.7t really damage the engine that badly? Cause I bought one pre-owned and the "G12 ONLY" was rubbed off the expansion tank...now my coolant system is leaking every which place and starts steaming up after five minutes of driving. Did the green stuff eat through all my hoses or what?

Mixing the green coolant with the G12 pink stuff causes sludge in the coolant system. I believe it will also eat away at the seals and wreak havoc on the coolant thermostat.

Flush it out and put in a 50/50 mix of distilled water and G12 and look for leaks. Budget in a new thermostat and seal replacement.

INCHI DICKARI
Aug 23, 2006

by FactsAreUseless


Why did my old Fastback hate me and run off the souls of the damned?

empty baggie
Oct 22, 2003



Lipstick Apathy

kimbo305 posted:

The Polo is a step smaller.

Thank you. I kinda noticed that today while walking around, though I do prefer the headlights on the Polo.

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.


empty baggie posted:

Thank you. I kinda noticed that today while walking around, though I do prefer the headlights on the Polo.
They built the Polo to go in below the Golf as a supermini, but then they started making the Golf fatter, and the Polo became a bit of a lardarse as well, so then they built the Lupo to go in below the Polo. It's about the same size as the old Polo, which is about the same size as the old Golf.

Effectively, they could have just kept everything the same size, and simply built a car larger than the Golf, and everyone would have been happy. But then you've got the Golf Plus, which is a Golf that's bigger than a Golf, which as I've just said is, itself, bigger than a Golf, and oh no I've gone cross-eyed...

Triikan
Feb 23, 2007
Most Loved

Okay, I've got two questions.

1: Why did I have to remove the radio to remove my 98 A4's interior.

and 2: Do you have a nice diagram as to what I should be looking for here:

Seems to be taking on a fair bit of water, not sure if it'll make it ashore. Only on driver's side, rest of car is dry (or, as dry as an enclosed space can be when there's a lake of water nearby)

There's a bit of water in here in the middle firewall area, so I'm assuming this is my problem from google, and a previous post (expired, put car in garage over winter):


All google tells me is pretty general; I don't see any clog, but I'm not sure I'm looking at the right part.

edit: 1998 Audi A4 V6 w/ sunroof and 5speed.

Triikan fucked around with this message at 12:03 on May 3, 2010

shy boy from chess club
Jun 11, 2008

It wasnt that bad, after you left I got to help put out the fire!



Triikan posted:

Leaky A4

There is a big drain under the battery that was clogged and causing the passengers side to get wet and ruin the trans computer in my 97. Check the sunroof drains too. They are inside the front of the door jambs and made of rubber. Squeeze them and see if anything comes out. You can also run string from a weedwacker through the holes around the sunroof to really make sure they are clean.

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!

my1999gsr posted:

Also, if your leak returns then you can ask for your $50 back because the problem wasn't repaired.

as long as you have your service records up to date, they should (emphasis on "should") be able to replace the damaged components under a goodwill claim.

Repaired? they charged me $50 for a can of brakleen and a blast of compressed air. The leak was still there buy since they cleaned it it wasn't an issue to them, its leaked since I got it with 20k on it.

Also the cams are considered an operator induced problem, the dealership will blame it on the oil and not the lovely design of their bearings.

Can you tell me anything about the codes I can pull up through the climatronic? I know speed, coolant temp, engine RPM, and a few more but cant figure out the rest.

edit: I'm replacing the door harness, speakers, and exploding radiator fans on a MkV, how long is this probably going to take?

SpeedFreek fucked around with this message at 13:30 on May 3, 2010

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SwashedBuckles
Aug 10, 2007

Have at you!

I have a couple of questions on my 2010 S4. Is carbon buildup also known to be a problem on the 3.0TFSI? Also, the shifts on the S-Tronic transmission seem to be more rough than when I first got the car (~2k miles right now); what could be causing this?

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