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knox_harrington posted:I am no expert but I don't think a Haldex can ever send more than 50% to the back wheels..? "A Haldex Traction LSC unit may divert up to a maximum 100% of the torque to the rear axle as conditions warrant. Many people find the torque distribution on Haldex Traction systems confusing. Under normal operating conditions, the Haldex LSC clutch operates at 5% (divide 5% between front and rear, and 97.5% torque goes to the front, and 2.5% goes to the rear). Under adverse conditions where both front wheels lose traction, the Haldex clutch can lock at 100% clamping force. This means, that since there is no torque transferred to the front axle, all torque (minus losses) must be transferred to the rear axle. The torque split between left and right wheels is achieved with a conventional open differential. If one side of the driven axle loses grip, then the Electronic Differential Lock (EDL) controls this. EDL brakes a single spinning wheel, and therefore torque gets transferred to the opposite wheel via the open differential. On all transverse-engined cars with the Haldex Traction LSC four-wheel drive system, the EDL only controls the front wheels, and not the rear." Sounds like it can do whatever they program it to do.
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Jun 2, 2018 21:48
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knox_harrington posted:I am no expert but I don't think a Haldex can ever send more than 50% to the back wheels..? 
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Jun 2, 2018 23:33
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If the clutch packs are locked and the engine torque isn't exceeding the torque capacity of the diff, and only the rear has traction, then yes it would be sending a large proportion of torque rearward.
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Jun 3, 2018 02:51
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flightless greeb posted:Awesome! Would love to see some pics of the outside! I've had to park under a tree and it's covered in poo poo at the moment but will do! jamal posted:If the clutch packs are locked and the engine torque isn't exceeding the torque capacity of the diff, and only the rear has traction, then yes it would be sending a large proportion of torque rearward. I kind of feel like this is a bit disingenuous as the front wheels are still getting power and are spinning. It's not like there is a centre diff thats diverting power to the back. As I understand it the RS just has a lower threshold for going into 4WD mode.
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Jun 3, 2018 11:38
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The first step in understanding all wheel drive is understanding the difference between power and torque.
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Jun 3, 2018 12:47
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Also understanding Newton's 3rd law. Take the example of the front wheels on ice: they have no traction and no torque can be applied. It doesn't matter how much you floor it or how fast the wheels spin. I used torque because it ignores wheel speed and engine rpm, but power is just torque x rpm (/5250). jamal fucked around with this message at 18:28 on Jun 3, 2018 |
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Jun 3, 2018 18:19
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Yes I understand all that thanks. Took some pics this afternoon.   Parked like a true Audi driver: 
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Jun 3, 2018 18:36
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Looks great!
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Jun 3, 2018 22:45
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Why is the license plate so much smaller than the frame?
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Jun 3, 2018 23:10
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Mr. Apollo posted:Why is the license plate so much smaller than the frame? Switzerland only has about 500 cars so the plates don't need to be very big. Also I think the car was originally from Germany where they have proper plates.
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Jun 4, 2018 08:07
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knox_harrington posted:Switzerland only has about 500 cars so the plates don't need to be very big. Also I think the car was originally from Germany where they have proper plates. I just looked this up and apparently Switzerland has smaller front plates than the EU standard. http://plaque.free.fr/eur/ch1e.html quote:The rear Swiss license plates come in 2 formats. One format, which is used to register most of the European brand cars exactly matches the French license plate format (500 x 110 mm). The other format (300 x 160 mm) is especially suited for foreign cars (US and Japanese brands).
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Jun 4, 2018 14:10
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Is this a good thread to ask about TDI buyback stuff? Because I’m finally trading my Jetta in on the 18th. Does anyone know how long/how easy the funds transfer process was? Because I’m moving out of the country four days after I trade the car in, so I’m hoping to avoid complications from either my payment from Volkswagen, or getting money from my loan provider when VW overpays them on my remaining loan.
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Jun 18, 2018 21:50
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TsarZiedonis posted:Is this a good thread to ask about TDI buyback stuff? Because I’m finally trading my Jetta in on the 18th. Does anyone know how long/how easy the funds transfer process was? Because I’m moving out of the country four days after I trade the car in, so I’m hoping to avoid complications from either my payment from Volkswagen, or getting money from my loan provider when VW overpays them on my remaining loan. From what I can recall (it's been a year and a half for me) it took a week or so to get the remainder of my payment from Wells Fargo after VW paid my loan off.
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Jun 18, 2018 23:06
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Any Golf Alltrack drivers here? I’m looking at either an 18 SE manual or an 18 Subaru Outback limited. The big thing drawing me to the VW is that the turbo 4 manual option is a cool thing to have in a wagon and it was very smooth when I drove one. I’m worried that the Subaru CVT and normal 2.5 would be too sluggish and boring in a 3,700 lb car.
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Jun 22, 2018 14:06
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Thinking about upgrading from my 2010 GTI to a new R. Should I do it goons? Should I spend $43k on a freaking VW?
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Jun 27, 2018 00:47
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Nuts and Gum posted:Thinking about upgrading from my 2010 GTI to a new R. Should I do it goons? Should I spend $43k on a freaking VW? My wife wanted an R until she saw that we could get a new GTI for $22k. I haven't driven an R but I have a hard time believing that it's worth the price difference.
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Jun 27, 2018 01:28
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Nuts and Gum posted:Thinking about upgrading from my 2010 GTI to a new R. Should I do it goons? Should I spend $43k on a freaking VW? I've debated this many times and the answer is always a resounding NO. That kind of money puts you into another tier of vehicles. I also can deal with how boring the latest generation Rs look.
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Jun 27, 2018 01:59
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two_beer_bishes posted:My wife wanted an R until she saw that we could get a new GTI for $22k. I haven't driven an R but I have a hard time believing that it's worth the price difference. You can, but to get it spec'd anywhere near what an R would have with cool stuff like adaptive cruise control you'll spend $35k, which at that point I'd go with an R since you get the digital dash, among other things. I'm tempted to wait for the MKVIII but that might be like 2021 latest 
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Jun 27, 2018 02:10
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I guess I am old now because I love the stealth mode looks of the Golf R. Too bad they put those garbage wheels on for 2019, though. A 40k+ Golf is just a hard pill to swallow, even if it's basically an Audi in all but badge. Especially when a well-equipped GTI is comfortably under 30k.
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Jun 27, 2018 17:05
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Mr. Apollo posted:Yeah the Q3, TT, and A3 families are all Haldex. However, in the cases of the TTRS and RS3 the Haldex system is tuned for rear wheel bias. A4 is now Haldex right? It's definitely not permanently sending power to the rear. However I believe it would be tough to tell the difference between torsen and the advanced haldex system they are using.
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Jun 27, 2018 20:41
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Styles Bitchley posted:I've debated this many times and the answer is always a resounding NO. That kind of money puts you into another tier of vehicles. I also can deal with how boring the latest generation Rs look. That other tier of vehicles at that price range don't usually include the practical and useful DD thing that hot hatches have going for them. It wouldn't be hard for the dealer to talk me into an R when I'm getting my 20k service on the GTI in a week or two provided them just buying out my lease is part of the deal.
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Jun 27, 2018 22:29
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fknlo posted:That other tier of vehicles at that price range don't usually include the practical and useful DD thing that hot hatches have going for them. It wouldn't be hard for the dealer to talk me into an R when I'm getting my 20k service on the GTI in a week or two provided them just buying out my lease is part of the deal. Your poor almost-totaled car is going to make someone on a budget so very happy. Though they'll probably but it at a sketchy lot since I doubt the dealer will want something on the lot with its history. Also, I motion we rename this thread the VW/Audi Depreciation Station. I have tragically traded in my 09 GTI for a big beastly truck . Worth 9k in 2016 and got 3k trading in. Private party was about 4k but it had 3 accidents on its record and then I'd have to deal with that crap so nope.Belatedly, I've decided I should have not bothered for 3k and just kept it and tuned it until it exploded but such is hindsight. Already looking at cheap GTIs and S4s for entertaining second cars in a few years when finances and life situations should hopefully allow...
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Jun 28, 2018 00:22
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fknlo posted:That other tier of vehicles at that price range don't usually include the practical and useful DD thing that hot hatches have going for them. It wouldn't be hard for the dealer to talk me into an R when I'm getting my 20k service on the GTI in a week or two provided them just buying out my lease is part of the deal. By "talk you into a Golf R" you mean pay full MSRP or more because so they could care less about moving the few that are out there for less. PabloBOOM posted:Also, I motion we rename this thread the VW/Audi Depreciation Station. I have tragically traded in my 09 GTI for a big beastly truck Very sad as I have 3 claims on my GTI as well and wondering if I can trade it or do private sell when the time comes. Fucker is an animal magnet. I have a very specific set of criteria for a fun practical car and the GTI is about the only one that checks all the boxes. Looking at replacing it with another one, I like the 2018s especially now they have better warranties.
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Jun 28, 2018 03:22
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Something Offal posted:A4 is now Haldex right? It's definitely not permanently sending power to the rear. However I believe it would be tough to tell the difference between torsen and the advanced haldex system they are using. The A4 died with the B8 
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Jun 28, 2018 03:23
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Styles Bitchley posted:By "talk you into a Golf R" you mean pay full MSRP or more because so they could care less about moving the few that are out there for less. One of my local dealers (Lindsay VW) recently had a sale on current year R's for 5k off MSRP. 
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Jun 28, 2018 05:23
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Etrips posted:One of my local dealers (Lindsay VW) recently had a sale on current year R's for 5k off MSRP. Were they actually selling for that or was that the price after a bunch of incentives no one actually qualifies for?
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Jun 28, 2018 05:39
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Styles Bitchley posted:By "talk you into a Golf R" you mean pay full MSRP or more because so they could care less about moving the few that are out there for less. I wouldn't really care all that much about paying MSRP if it got me out of the lease! PabloBOOM posted:Your poor almost-totaled car is going to make someone on a budget so very happy. Though they'll probably but it at a sketchy lot since I doubt the dealer will want something on the lot with its history. Yeah, it's definitely going to an auction after they get it back.
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Jun 29, 2018 02:46
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Styles Bitchley posted:I've debated this many times and the answer is always a resounding NO. That kind of money puts you into another tier of vehicles. I also can deal with how boring the latest generation Rs look. I also went through this. MSRP to MSRP, the golf R is justifiable. Factor in the cash on the hood they were doing on gtis, and the math just doesn't make sense. Are they doing the same with 2018s?
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Jun 29, 2018 11:05
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GutBomb posted:Were they actually selling for that or was that the price after a bunch of incentives no one actually qualifies for? It was an actual sale they had going on for two days. A sales guy that hangs out in the our local Vw group posted about it.
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Jun 29, 2018 13:36
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Something Offal posted:A4 is now Haldex right? It's definitely not permanently sending power to the rear. However I believe it would be tough to tell the difference between torsen and the advanced haldex system they are using. No, B platform is still longitudinal and quattro. The A4 allroad gets quattro Ultra which can disconnect the rear wheels at highway speeds for better mileage. It’s undetectable and works well. Q5 gets Ultra next, and then the rest of the A4/A5 lineup, and then basically everything else. I believe the S cars will not get quattro Ultra for now.
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Jun 30, 2018 03:57
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DropShadow posted:No, B platform is still longitudinal and quattro. The A4 allroad gets quattro Ultra which can disconnect the rear wheels at highway speeds for better mileage. It’s undetectable and works well. Q5 gets Ultra next, and then the rest of the A4/A5 lineup, and then basically everything else. I believe the S cars will not get quattro Ultra for now. It's Haldex. There is no longer a center differential. If Haldex is some kind of a dirty word in this thread then you can say it's essentially the same system as an automatic Impreza if somehow that sounds better. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VjwYNvsJ-OM
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Jun 30, 2018 04:31
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I've got a 2008 VW Rabbit with the iPod adapter and I want to shift it over to using aux in instead of the iPod connector. It's a silver-face Premium 7 radio, which as far as I know supports aux in. From the googling I've been able to find, I just need to shift the last byte on the config from 2 to 1. I managed to chat with it using a cheap-o VAG-CANBUS cables and VAG-K+CAN COMMANDER, and it accepted a new code, moving from 40402 to 40401. Nothing changed, but I can read it back out and it's still 40401. Hitting CD twice still reports NO MAGAZIN or plays an iPod. I tried twiddling that last byte to whatever it will accept (which is 0, 1, and 2) and no change whatsover. 0's supposed to drop support for the secondary CD mode altogether.  I'm pretty certain I'm writing to the correct place, as soon as I connect to the module the radio shuts off and reads DIAG.  I figured rebooting the radio might be the proper next step, so I looked up the fuse in the manual. Popped the hood, found that it was rated for 2x what the manual said (30A instead of 15A), pulled it, and....yeah. Radio kept playing. So what next?
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Jul 8, 2018 02:00
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If you pull the fuse and radio is still going then it isn't the right fuse. You could try disconnecting the battery for a few minutes.
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Jul 8, 2018 03:47
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I have a friendly neighbour with a broken Skoda, which I'm going to pretend is just like a VW/Audi with a cheaper outer layer. The deal: 2008 Skoda Octavia. 2.0 FSI, 6-speed manual. It simply won't crank. He drove it, parked, and then it just wouldn't start. Push-started it just fine, drove it home, and there it now sits doing nothing. When turning the key there's no click or anything from the starter, but I can hear a faint click from some relay under the dash. I did try the ancient whack-broomstick-to-the-starter to no avail. It is throwing an error code, P0685; "Engine Control Module Power Relay Control Circuit Open". My best-guess interpretation of the descriptions for that is the ECM thinks something is off power-wise and doesn't feel like starting. Best case "probable cause" seems to be the ECM relay or a fuse. I went about checking fuses and relays. None of the fuses I tested are blown, but I can't seem to find the main relay hiding place. Only relay I found was one in the engine compartment, it seems fine as far as I can test it with a multimeter and swapping it out (it seems like a generic 30A relay) did nothing. That relay is not clicking when turning the key, and I'm not sure what it's for. There should be lots more relays somewhere, but how do I find them? This is the engine compartment fusebox, grey thing marked "370" is the sole relay there:  Based on the vague descriptions in the manual the 40A fuse to the left seemed to have something to do with powering the starter solenoid, but that fuse is good (as are its neighbours). This is the one in the passenger compartment (behind driver-side door). Nothing but fuses, and all the engine-related ones I checked are fine:  My general questions: -Where do I find the rest of the relays this thing should have, and specifically the ECM relay? Some googling suggests there's a "relay carrier" somewhere in the passenger compartment, but I am at a loss finding it. -What probable cause is there really for this problem and the P0685 code? The descriptions mostly say "anything power/wiring/ECM related", which seems rather vague to me. -What other things should I check before I tell him to just get it to a VAG-capable mechanic?
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Jul 20, 2018 22:30
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Have you tried disconnecting the battery and touching the leads together awhile then trying again? Good thing to try with any VAG electricals. Did a quick google and it says 2 locations for fuses/relays but that doesn't look like many relays in your pictures at all to me- are there some around the ECU? That's where a few are on my a4 from memory. Other than that, a better computer scanner may be able to tell a lot more.
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Jul 21, 2018 12:40
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Tried disconnecting the battery, did nothing. There's only one relay in the engine compartment fuse box, and it is literally the only one I've found. I'd be happy to look around the ECU, but I have yet to see that either. I wonder if the panel in the passenger compartment can come off somehow to reveal goodies underneath, but I couldn't see an apparent way in. A better scanner is practically equivalent to "VAG mechanic man", I only have a barebones simple one available.
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Jul 21, 2018 19:49
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ionn posted:Tried disconnecting the battery, did nothing. If the fuses and relays check out, I would bet the ECM itself has shorted/died. But I am partly basing this on my gti of similar vintage randomly eating its electronic module and requiring a new one for the car to do absolutely anything at all.
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Jul 21, 2018 22:33
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The relays have not yet checked out as I am unable to find them. Though I found some crappy video suggesting I can remove the panel by the drivers knees and get to some more goodies behind the passenger compartment fuse box. The ECM is definitely not all dead, as it runs fine if push started. Hoping that's not it, because  , but it's at least theoretically possible it has just lost a single input or output causing this. Still want this to be a relay.
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Jul 22, 2018 05:12
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I have a 2000 Golf GLS 2.0 5sp that I’m desperate to get running right. I bought it cheap from the son of the original owner with a binder full of dealer maintenance records from purchase to 2016. The son put about 2k miles on it in the last two years and basically let it sit and rot. The problem is, it’s running rich. Rich enough that it’s failing smog for black smoke when snapping the throttle, and my wife tells me how bad it smells when I leave in the morning. The symptoms besides black smoke in the exhaust are: Hard cold start, every single morning without fail. It takes an extra 5-7 seconds for it to catch, then starts fine for the rest of the day (even with 8+ hours between starts). It always catches and runs after the extra cranking, and it cranks hard so I don’t think it’s the battery? Slightly high, stumbling idle. No misfire codes and the stumbling is pretty faint, but it idles around 800 and if you pay attention at a stoplight you can feel the random skips. I’ve tried with AC and fan off with no change. If vwvortex is to be believed I think idle should be closer to 700. Intermittently low on power. When I bought it power was very low, but I could unplug the battery and reset the ECU and it would run better (still stumbling idle and black smoke, but noticeable improvement in power) until the readiness monitors set and it ran open loop again - then the low power comes right back. This got less frequent with a MAF replacement but is still happening. Now it seems like partial throttle adjustment is the worst case for “push throttle, get nothing.” Full throttle and starting from a stop seem better at least. Crazy lurching when I let off the throttle. Like, even partially letting off the gas while idling through a parking lot instantly pulls the car to a stop. This is a weird one to describe, but how aggressive the engine braking is seems...wrong. When I do the throttle snap thing myself, I can always get black smoke when I rev up to 2,500-3,000. The smoke gets a little worse if I do that a few times, but if I rev the pants off it for a few seconds and repeat the snap test there’s little to no smoke at all. So far I’ve: Seafoamed New NGK copper plugs New air filter New PCV valve and hoses (the large 90 degree hose had a massive tear at the elbow) New coolant temp sensor New fuel filter New MAF - this improved power/responsiveness after the readiness checks, but didn’t eliminate the black smoke and I’m still getting random issues with not having any oomph New O2 sensors, upstream and downstream. Computer was throwing a code for the downstream so I did them both. I’ll admit I’m just throwing parts at it under the guise of “cleaning it up”. I was looking for a vacuum or intake leak in the beginning, now I’m considering: FPR isn’t pulling enough pressure at idle, or the fuel return line is clogged. I don’t see a schrader valve on the fuel rail so I’m trying to find a write up on how to T into the fuel line to test pressure. Does anyone know how to test the fuel return line, or if that’s even a valid thing to consider? I checked the vacuum hose feeding the FPR and there’s at least some vacuum there, no fuel leaking from the vacuum port. Vacuum leak - assuming more rotten lines like the PCV hose, basically same symptoms as the FPR not bypassing enough fuel at low-mid throttle due to weak vacuum? I could be making this up... Exhaust leak before the upstream O2 sensor. At one point I was thinking catalytic converters, took it to an exhaust shop and the mechanic said without a code he basically had no indication the cat needed replaced. He added that a bad cat won’t cause black smoke, which was a surprise to me. I’m pretty close to finding a local VW garage, but can’t bring myself to give up quite yet. My next step is a new FPR, but don’t want to miss something like weak vacuum or a clogged return line. Last thought, could it be as simple as letting the computer properly adjust to all the changes/resets? I’ve read about some throttle body adjustment that can only be initiated with VAGCOM or a factory diagnostic tool - I’d probably bring it in for that, I don’t think I’d use VAGCOM enough to warrant the price. This turned into an effort post but this car is driving me nuts...
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Aug 3, 2018 02:14
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Kinda sounds like it could be a leaky injector to me also. No o2 sensor codes? FPR might be a step in the right direction since it sounds like pressure is bleeding down which causes the hard start when cold. When you say "throttle snap" do you mean tipping in or tipping out?
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Aug 3, 2018 12:17
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