Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
SLCGoth
Nov 8, 2009

Alighieri posted:

Got a 2006 GLI and love it. Few questions about it. How much would it be to take it in for routine maintenance at VW, next scheduled one is at 70k and just looking at cost. Since it is not under warranty I would assume it will be more.


My local dealership charged me around $400 for the 70k service on my 06 GLI.

Hope that helped a little.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

Opensourcepirate posted:

I'd like some instructions. There's no rush though as I won't be getting around to it this week.

This probably won't help you, but the window stopped working in the exact same way in the winter of 08/09, then fixed itself in the summer of 09 and worked flawlessly, and then started having this behavior again this winter. Thankfully it was up when it stopped working, both times.

Actually this does help. When the regulator assembly is going/gone it will never fix itself. Does the master window switch on the driver's side operate the passenger window or does it not work the same as the passenger door window switch?

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

Autism Sundae posted:

Well, the RVU that I read about is for supposed engine problem that could cause some serious damage, not sure what the details were but it was for early MKVI GTIs and I guess dealerships had to test all GTIs on their lots. Do you have any records of something like that? Sorry I'm not being more specific. I'd be interested in finding out about any available RVUs/TSBs that apply to my car, of course.

I'll ask one of the technicians about dual-mass flywheels when I go get my oil changed, thanks. Don't know if it's likely to fail at 4K miles. As far as vibration though, does that sound like something normal for the engine to you though (I know this is probably a bad question since you haven't seen the car)? Also, can the shop scan my car for faults in real time as it idles, or does the software only show CEL codes?

Thanks again for answering so many questions.

Oh yes, a VAG scan tool (in the right hands) can be used to monitor any system in the vehicle in any condition - moving, running, stopped, idle, key on/engine off. It won't show when a fault is logged (you have to go to a different section in the tool) but if you know what you're looking for in the values you can see when something isn't working correctly.

We've had the dual-mass flywheel go at less then 3000 kms and up believe it or not. It's certainly possible for the engine to have a vibration that's natural but the 2.0T is a pretty smooth, if a little loud (due to the FSI injectors) engine so it seems out of character. I don't see any RVUs or TSB's at this time for your car that would have any serious engine consequences but there may be one issued for US cars that I'm not able to see.

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

Autism Sundae posted:

Oh yeah, one more - what's the effect of ECU adapting? My car has a manual so shifts won't be any smoother, but I'm assuming other things are affected. Will ECU readjust if I change my driving habits?

It can still alter valve timing, fuel trims - pretty much anything you'd be able to do during a dyno tune but in a smaller range. It'll only adapt so far before it hits a limit. To get past that, you need a chip.

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

primitive posted:

Do you see any big differences in the quality of the techs that work at VW and Audi dealerships? I'd gladly take my GTI for its scheduled maintenance (especially the DSG oil changeout) to an Audi dealership if I knew I would have a reduced chance of running into clowns :)

The techs are usually skilled at the dealerships BUT the real difference is integrity when it comes to diagnosing and repairing vehicles - some guys just don't have any sense of what's right when it comes to repairs. I'm lucky - my shop's techs are all top-notch and there's never a question with their skills or integrity - we've all had to deal with the "crooked grease monkey" stigma in the trade so it's something we strive to erase.

teh jhey
May 23, 2004

Kitty needs more souls.

my1999gsr posted:

The update programming you got was for the intake flap motor but it shouldn't have anything to do with your vibration issue. What you were told about the ECU adapting is 100% true - it really does adapt to your driving style. It's surprising to drive a Jetta that's owned by an older driver because it's so soft on the shifts.

This is interesting.

I'm having an issue on my '09 6-speed GTI where when I'm rolling out from a dead stop in first gear, the throttle feels like it snaps shut for just a split second, causing a sharp, momentary stop in the acceleration, and then it's smooth through the rest of first and the other gears. My foot is on the gas for the whole time.

I put a boost gauge in, and it looks like as I'm getting onto the gas and it climbs towards -10 PSI, it suddenly drops back to -17 right when that "stop" happens.

Is this related to the throttle, or is it just some sort of thing that happens in turbo cars? I have no idea what to even call this issue, so I don't know how to search for it.

Autism Monday
Mar 18, 2005

anime comes to life and kisses me on the lips

teh jhey posted:



Has it always been that way or did that only begin recently? How hard are you accelerating? I'm going to check if I can feel anything similar today.

teh jhey
May 23, 2004

Kitty needs more souls.

Autism Sundae posted:

Has it always been that way or did that only begin recently? How hard are you accelerating? I'm going to check if I can feel anything similar today.

Actually, it happens mostly when I'm trying to accelerate smoothly and slowly from a stop. I've been alleviating it by kicking the clutch in when it happens, and letting it back out when the throttle feels like it's popped open again.

It's been happening for a little while now (months). For what it's worth, it's happened both before and after I had it chipped (should I not say that with a VW tech around?)

It's not a huge problem, just makes me a little self conscious of my stick-driving.

Autism Monday
Mar 18, 2005

anime comes to life and kisses me on the lips
Oh yeah, hey my1999gsr have you heard anything about GTI/A3 water pumps failing? There's a thread here: http://golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4872&highlight=water+pump but I don't know if there's a TSB out for it. It would be nice to know which cars are affected.

Opensourcepirate
Aug 1, 2004

Except Wednesdays

my1999gsr posted:

Actually this does help. When the regulator assembly is going/gone it will never fix itself. Does the master window switch on the driver's side operate the passenger window or does it not work the same as the passenger door window switch?

Edit: Actually went out to my car to verify things.

The behavior is exactly the same when using the drivers side window control (of the passenger window) and the passenger side control.

When you press the control, either up or down, there's a click sound from the door, followed by another click sound about a second later or when the button is released - whichever comes first. So if you just tapped the button, it would be a rapid fire click-click. If you hold the button, it sounds almost like the tick tock of a clock, with one tick and a slightly different sounding tick about a second later. If the car is off, there's enough current draw to slightly dim the dome light for exactly the time from the first click to the second click. If you hold the button down, there's no sign of significant current draw after the second click.

Opensourcepirate fucked around with this message at 22:00 on May 4, 2010

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

teh jhey posted:

This is interesting.

I'm having an issue on my '09 6-speed GTI where when I'm rolling out from a dead stop in first gear, the throttle feels like it snaps shut for just a split second, causing a sharp, momentary stop in the acceleration, and then it's smooth through the rest of first and the other gears. My foot is on the gas for the whole time.

I put a boost gauge in, and it looks like as I'm getting onto the gas and it climbs towards -10 PSI, it suddenly drops back to -17 right when that "stop" happens.

Is this related to the throttle, or is it just some sort of thing that happens in turbo cars? I have no idea what to even call this issue, so I don't know how to search for it.

I've never watched boost during acceleration (at least not for the concern you have) but it seems funny that you'd drop boost - it's usually pretty linear. This might be worth a trip to the dealer - it doesn't sound like normal operation. It *might* have something to do with the chipping but that's an aspect of VW/Audi that I know very little about since our dealership doesn't do any chipping/modding other than strictly VAG parts. I love driving chipped turbo cars - if I owned a VW it would be the first thing I'd do.

my1999gsr fucked around with this message at 23:37 on May 4, 2010

Late Hit
Nov 4, 2009
Apologies in advance for what could end up being a stupid question.

I have a 2002 A3 (1.8T Quattro).

The clutch pedal sticks on its way back up. Sometimes involving me needing to help it up (at its worst) but mostly sticking with about an inch of travel left, then popping up the rest of the way a fraction of a second later.

It only seems to do this when the car is cold. If I go to the supermarket, for example, when I get back to the car it will be fine and smooth. Except the clutch pedal feels very light.

I bought the car used, and it is still within its warranty, so I should imagine it won't cost me anything to get it fixed, although I can't take it to the Audi dealership as they don't deal with third party warranty, I have to take it to some fuckheads instead.

It must be said though, when it's working it's a very fun car to drive, considering it's about the most powerful car that's affordable as a young guy in his early 20s in the UK.

I do intend to take it to the garage on my day off, but any idea what's up?

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

Autism Sundae posted:

Oh yeah, hey my1999gsr have you heard anything about GTI/A3 water pumps failing? There's a thread here: http://golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4872&highlight=water+pump but I don't know if there's a TSB out for it. It would be nice to know which cars are affected.

I haven't seen this problem yet and there's no applicable TSBs for it currently. That doesn't mean it isn't a problem though - just not one I'm familiar with yet.

Late Hit
Nov 4, 2009

my1999gsr posted:

I haven't seen this problem yet and there's no applicable TSBs for it currently. That doesn't mean it isn't a problem though - just not one I'm familiar with yet.

This I can help with. My water pump (on the 02 Quattro) had failed. I assume it wasn't changed with the cambelt when that was done at 48k, Made it do around 60k and impeller failed. Leading to overheating. I'm told that on the engine my car has, it's a relatively simple (<4hr) job to do the water pump and cambelt, compared to some.

Blackdawgg
May 8, 2004
Do you know a lot about the DSG? I don't know if this is a problem or not but my DSG always seems to have the clutch engaged and wanting to creep forward.

Two examples.
If I stop the car slowly and smoothly it won't disengage the clutch, if I put it into neutral I can definitely feel it disengage.

If I stop the car quickly with moderate braking it will disengage the clutch by itself and putting the car into neutral when stopped doesn't change anything. It will engage the clutch again when I let off the brake.

I tried to explain this to the dealer but they looked at me like I was crazy. Also my GTi sounds like a diesel and my exhaust tip is dirtier than those new TDi's. Why do they run so rich?

Fatty_McLumpkin
Sep 30, 2002

Oh I loooove going to the mooon ahaha ahhhahaaa
ok honest question here...

I have a 1994 Ex Civic Coupe (my 9th civic) that I'm currently dumping money into in order to be road worthy ( New clutch and flywheel, new exhaust, and new tires, possibly new head gasket and timing belt/water pump). Thinking of either selling it for 2500.00 and/or trade for a VW.

I'm leaning heavily towards Jetta here as I don't really like the VW hatchbacks.

My question here is, Mk III v. MkIV.. is the mk3 More reliable/Less reliable/As reliable than the mk4?

I understand that reliability rests solely in the hands of the Previous owner, however.. its pretty well known that certain cars can withstand a beating and there are certain cars that just don't. I also understand that all VW's have just about 40 sensors for everything, so I'm never going to be able to drive without some sort of CEL flashing in my face... I'm just trying to find out of the two generations, what trim level/motor combo should I be looking towards (as a person who knows about cars but doesn't have a garage).

having said that... the question still remains.

*edit: forgot to add that i'd be willing to go to Mk2 even if that makes things any better... but the impression that I'm getting is that mk3 is the way to go for a first time VW owner.

Fatty_McLumpkin fucked around with this message at 02:42 on May 5, 2010

tehllama
Apr 30, 2009

Hook, swing.
MkIV Jettas were shittily made, have a host of random rear end problems, and smell like crayons. You just missed a thread about it. Get a Rabbit or a Passat or a Golf instead if you're going for those model years.

e: As far as I know the Mk3's don't have a lot of the production problems the MkIV's did, but keep in mind you're going to be buying a car that is at least 12 years old.

e:

Fatty_McLumpkin posted:

by "those model years" you mean mkIV?

Yes. Those "or"s were a little unclear, so I'll clarify. The Golf's for those years was MkIV, the Passat was MkV. The rabbit was only branded as such in the states until the mid 80's (before being rebranded as Golf), but if you can find one that hasn't been abused they're pretty sweet.

e2: Basically are you trying for an introduction to VW's or a reliable daily driver? I wouldn't be looking at cars that old with that many miles on them of any brand if I were going to be commuting on it. You'll probably be lucky to find a Mk3 Jetta with less than 140k miles on it. If you can find a Rabbit it'll likely have been sitting somewhere for ten years. You might be able to find a MkIV Jetta with less than 100k miles if you're extremely lucky.

tehllama fucked around with this message at 03:03 on May 5, 2010

Fatty_McLumpkin
Sep 30, 2002

Oh I loooove going to the mooon ahaha ahhhahaaa
by "those model years" you mean mkIV?

Blackdawgg
May 8, 2004

Fatty_McLumpkin posted:

ok honest question here...

I have a 1994 Ex Civic Coupe (my 9th civic) that I'm currently dumping money into in order to be road worthy ( New clutch and flywheel, new exhaust, and new tires, possibly new head gasket and timing belt/water pump). Thinking of either selling it for 2500.00 and/or trade for a VW.

I'm leaning heavily towards Jetta here as I don't really like the VW hatchbacks.

My question here is, Mk III v. MkIV.. is the mk3 More reliable/Less reliable/As reliable than the mk4?

I understand that reliability rests solely in the hands of the Previous owner, however.. its pretty well known that certain cars can withstand a beating and there are certain cars that just don't. I also understand that all VW's have just about 40 sensors for everything, so I'm never going to be able to drive without some sort of CEL flashing in my face... I'm just trying to find out of the two generations, what trim level/motor combo should I be looking towards (as a person who knows about cars but doesn't have a garage).

having said that... the question still remains.

*edit: forgot to add that i'd be willing to go to Mk2 even if that makes things any better... but the impression that I'm getting is that mk3 is the way to go for a first time VW owner.

Sadly MKIVs are getting old enough that they have too many miles on them for me to comfortably want to buy one. Jettas seemed to be the worst but you could argue they sold a ton of them. But they all seem to have one maintenance issue or another that if left unchecked or unheeded will ruin the car. With my MKIV Passat it was the engine sludge issue. Mine ran great because I put on a big oil filter and used good quality synthetic oil. But I certainly wouldn't want to buy one now not knowing what the hell the previous owner put in.

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

Late Hit posted:

This I can help with. My water pump (on the 02 Quattro) had failed. I assume it wasn't changed with the cambelt when that was done at 48k, Made it do around 60k and impeller failed. Leading to overheating. I'm told that on the engine my car has, it's a relatively simple (<4hr) job to do the water pump and cambelt, compared to some.

If you you've got an 02 with the 1.8T then yes, those pumps are all junk but if the poster is talking about the A3/GTI with the 2.0T then the failure rate hasn't been an issue as yet.

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

my1999gsr posted:

I'll check it out for you on Monday and get a part number. What country are you in?

According to my parts dept your part number is N 104 457 01 - gas discharge bulb.

omgitstheinternet
Apr 28, 2005

Money, Clothes, and Hoes;
All a Nigga Knows
I currently have a CEL due to my car not having a cat, I will be fixing this today, do I need to have the code cleared or will it automatically go away when all is well?

e: 2002 GTI 1.8T, just in case it matters.

omgitstheinternet fucked around with this message at 17:13 on May 5, 2010

A.C.A.M.
Dec 25, 2004

may our nation state be always second rate
Thanks for this thread, my1999gsr.

I have an issue which has been causing me a lot of frustration and embarassment. The dealer I was getting the car serviced at could never seem to fault/diagnose the problem as it is very intermittent. I always sort of got the feeling they didn't believe me. They did eventually do a lot of work under warranty but it didn't fix it.

I have a 9N MY06 Polo GTI manual, all stock. Occasionally when shifting from 1-2 or 2-3 it crunches into gear. Sometimes it feels like the crunch you'd get from not clutching in enough. Sometimes it feels like there's a lot of resistance at the gate and then it just sorta gets 'sucked in' with a crunch. It almost always occurs during fast shifts when I'm driving hard. It's a bit embarassing out and about because everyone nearby thinks you fudged a shift.

For a long time I couldn't get the dealer to find fault with it. Eventually I was able to induce the problem by coasting and shifting back and forth between 3 and 4. As I did that it would just continually crunch into 3. After this they replaced 3rd gear, and then eventually every gear (except reverse), although I was never given a conclusive answer as to what the problem was. Throughout the history of this problem I have had everything done from a synchro ring (apparently some kind of known issue and replaced with an improved part), to having the gear oil changed to a different type.

After the gearbox rebuild it seemed to be better for a short while but it's happening again.

Another thing; I have never driven another GTI so I don't know if this is normal but the gears are so notchy! You really have to push it to get it through the gate. My S2000 is a little notchy too but it's such a short throw you don't really notice, and fast changes are a breeze compared to the Polo.

I will be taking the vehicle to a different garage in future. I don't expect you to be able to solve the problem but if you could give me some ideas to bounce off a new technician it would be very much appreciated. I know a little about cars but I am a pussy who doesn't want to do his own work in case he breaks something. God knows I've done enough of that on my various PCs.

Phew, sorry about the wall of text. I actually had a couple of other things I wanted to ask about dash rattles and aftermarket ECU but this post is probably selfish enough as it is.

Sepist
Dec 26, 2005

FUCK BITCHES, ROUTE PACKETS

Gravy Boat 2k
Can anyone recommend a good aftermarket clutch and flywheel for a 00' Passat VR6? I want to pick it up to have my mechanic install it since he'll charge his normal premium to pick up one for me. My coworker's GTI is :rice: and is telling me to get a 10lb flywheel with a stage 3 clutch (I wouldn't mind the lighter flywheel), but I don't beat on my car, I just drive in traffic to/from work. I use my motorcycle for all my fun :O

I found this one http://www.performance-cafe.com/product_info.php?cPath=5_155&products_id=808 but I've never heard of the company.

Blocko
Jul 12, 2008

Spoiler alert: Blood Ravens are actually Hiigarans who got sucked into the warp, were sent back in time to fight in WWII against the Panzer Elite, then stole a nazi time machine to go into the future and save mankind from an army of Lobster-Elephants and other impossible creatures.

Rated R.

Sepist posted:

Can anyone recommend a good aftermarket clutch and flywheel for a 00' Passat VR6? I want to pick it up to have my mechanic install it since he'll charge his normal premium to pick up one for me. My coworker's GTI is :rice: and is telling me to get a 10lb flywheel with a stage 3 clutch (I wouldn't mind the lighter flywheel), but I don't beat on my car, I just drive in traffic to/from work. I use my motorcycle for all my fun :O

I found this one http://www.performance-cafe.com/product_info.php?cPath=5_155&products_id=808 but I've never heard of the company.

Most people go with either South Bend or Sachs performance. Here is a Sachs one from ECS: http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Passat_B5-FWD-V6_30v/Drivetrain/Clutch/ES3585/

Fatty_McLumpkin
Sep 30, 2002

Oh I loooove going to the mooon ahaha ahhhahaaa

tehllama posted:

MkIV Jettas were shittily made, have a host of random rear end problems, and smell like crayons. You just missed a thread about it. Get a Rabbit or a Passat or a Golf instead if you're going for those model years.

e: As far as I know the Mk3's don't have a lot of the production problems the MkIV's did, but keep in mind you're going to be buying a car that is at least 12 years old.

e:


Yes. Those "or"s were a little unclear, so I'll clarify. The Golf's for those years was MkIV, the Passat was MkV. The rabbit was only branded as such in the states until the mid 80's (before being rebranded as Golf), but if you can find one that hasn't been abused they're pretty sweet.

e2: Basically are you trying for an introduction to VW's or a reliable daily driver? I wouldn't be looking at cars that old with that many miles on them of any brand if I were going to be commuting on it. You'll probably be lucky to find a Mk3 Jetta with less than 140k miles on it. If you can find a Rabbit it'll likely have been sitting somewhere for ten years. You might be able to find a MkIV Jetta with less than 100k miles if you're extremely lucky.

ah i didn't see your edit.

yes, I'm looking for a car that I can daily drive, but i wont be heart broken/left without transportation if it breaks down as I have other vehicles. In terms of frequency of breakdowns, average repair costs, and ease of upgrade, I'm not versed well enough in the language of VW to make a wise decision.

Fatty_McLumpkin fucked around with this message at 23:07 on May 5, 2010

Autism Monday
Mar 18, 2005

anime comes to life and kisses me on the lips

teh jhey posted:

It's been happening for a little while now (months). For what it's worth, it's happened both before and after I had it chipped (should I not say that with a VW tech around?)

I paid attention to this today and my GTI doesn't do anything like it, I can take off from a stop pretty smoothly as long as I don't gently caress up a shift. So maybe your issue is worth a trip to the dealer, although they probably won't be happy about boost gauges etc.

A.C.A.M. posted:

Another thing; I have never driven another GTI so I don't know if this is normal but the gears are so notchy! You really have to push it to get it through the gate. My S2000 is a little notchy too but it's such a short throw you don't really notice, and fast changes are a breeze compared to the Polo.

The 6-speed in my GTI is notchy but not to the point of grinding gears or anything. I don't have to push hard to get it into the gate, it just needs to be lined up with the gate properly, much more strict/less loose than other manual transmissions. Your gearbox is definitely abnormal though, being notchy and grinding gears aren't the same.

wav3form
Aug 10, 2008

Blackdawgg posted:

Sadly MKIVs are getting old enough that they have too many miles on them for me to comfortably want to buy one. Jettas seemed to be the worst but you could argue they sold a ton of them. But they all seem to have one maintenance issue or another that if left unchecked or unheeded will ruin the car. With my MKIV Passat it was the engine sludge issue. Mine ran great because I put on a big oil filter and used good quality synthetic oil. But I certainly wouldn't want to buy one now not knowing what the hell the previous owner put in.

85k miles on my '01 GTI VR6 and no issues at all. Find a good one that has been cared for and you'll be fine - just like any car.

Tigertron
Jan 19, 2007

Tiger, tiger, burning bright

Owner Ad posted:

1984 VW Vanagon - $1500

Most things are either new or been recently replaced under my ownership.

The latest is a brand new whole air conditioning system. Still under 3 year warranty.

The following have been recently replaced:

Rebuilt engine.
New Battery
The whole breaking system (Drums, pads, master cylinder...)
Clutch
Temp sensors
Water pump

I've had it put away for a few months so it's out of circulation. Fees, and license plates need to be paid to get it in circulation again.

It runs smoothly but it needs some adjustments so it passes the smog test. Great opportunity for a mechanic who can turn around and sell it for a profit.

Wipers need replacing, tires are still for a few dozen miles.

124, 000 miles from original engine.

Fully furnished...potty, 2 bed spaces (mattresses included), expandable roof, sink, stove, sink, fridge, original radio still working, exterior is relatively good condition (minor scratches and dents).




Thoughts on what to look out for? I know it's a good deal but can I trust a vehicle like this as daily driver/weekend excursion vehicle? Most of my daily driving will be for beach trips and what not since I don't need a real commuter vehicle for work, just around town driving.

Also What can I expect to pay for the thing to pass smog?

Autism Monday
Mar 18, 2005

anime comes to life and kisses me on the lips
Is this in California? California law requires seller to pass smog.

quote:

The seller is required to provide the buyer with a valid smog inspection certification at the time of the sale or transfer. Smog certifications are good for 90 days from the date of issuance.
http://www.dmv.ca.gov/vr/smogfaq.htm

If it needs parts to pass then who knows how expensive that will be, you can easily spend several hundred on replacing sensors and catalytic converter. You can buy it as-is but if it just needs "minor tweaks" to pass then why the hell wouldn't the seller fix it and jack the price. You can also "pass" smog by paying certain shops but that's obviously not legal.

Also a car doesn't "go out of circulation" over a few months. Sounds like the guy couldn't pass smog, lapsed on registration which he can't renew until he gets smogged, and is now trying to offload the van quickly to someone who doesn't know any better.

Autism Monday fucked around with this message at 00:26 on May 6, 2010

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

A.C.A.M. posted:

Thanks for this thread, my1999gsr.

I have an issue which has been causing me a lot of frustration and embarassment. The dealer I was getting the car serviced at could never seem to fault/diagnose the problem as it is very intermittent. I always sort of got the feeling they didn't believe me. They did eventually do a lot of work under warranty but it didn't fix it.

I have a 9N MY06 Polo GTI manual, all stock. Occasionally when shifting from 1-2 or 2-3 it crunches into gear. Sometimes it feels like the crunch you'd get from not clutching in enough. Sometimes it feels like there's a lot of resistance at the gate and then it just sorta gets 'sucked in' with a crunch. It almost always occurs during fast shifts when I'm driving hard. It's a bit embarassing out and about because everyone nearby thinks you fudged a shift.

For a long time I couldn't get the dealer to find fault with it. Eventually I was able to induce the problem by coasting and shifting back and forth between 3 and 4. As I did that it would just continually crunch into 3. After this they replaced 3rd gear, and then eventually every gear (except reverse), although I was never given a conclusive answer as to what the problem was. Throughout the history of this problem I have had everything done from a synchro ring (apparently some kind of known issue and replaced with an improved part), to having the gear oil changed to a different type.

After the gearbox rebuild it seemed to be better for a short while but it's happening again.

Another thing; I have never driven another GTI so I don't know if this is normal but the gears are so notchy! You really have to push it to get it through the gate. My S2000 is a little notchy too but it's such a short throw you don't really notice, and fast changes are a breeze compared to the Polo.

I will be taking the vehicle to a different garage in future. I don't expect you to be able to solve the problem but if you could give me some ideas to bounce off a new technician it would be very much appreciated. I know a little about cars but I am a pussy who doesn't want to do his own work in case he breaks something. God knows I've done enough of that on my various PCs.

Phew, sorry about the wall of text. I actually had a couple of other things I wanted to ask about dash rattles and aftermarket ECU but this post is probably selfish enough as it is.

Sorry - we don't get the Polo in North America so I'm not famliiar with it specifically but I can offer a suggestion - bleed your clutch and/or change the clutch fluid. Given what's already been tried with your car I'd want to make sure the hydraulic system for the clutch was in good shape before going further.

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

omgitstheinternet posted:

I currently have a CEL due to my car not having a cat, I will be fixing this today, do I need to have the code cleared or will it automatically go away when all is well?

e: 2002 GTI 1.8T, just in case it matters.

You'll need to get it erased - after a couple of driving cycles with the same high authority fault it'll be saved and the MIL will stay on.

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

Autism Sundae posted:

Oh yeah, hey my1999gsr have you heard anything about GTI/A3 water pumps failing? There's a thread here: http://golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4872&highlight=water+pump but I don't know if there's a TSB out for it. It would be nice to know which cars are affected.

So as luck would have it we got a GLI Jetta (with the 2.0T) today with a coolant leak. After we called Tech Line they suggested checking the water pump for leaks and sure enough the water pump was leaking at the bearing. From the way the Tech advisor jumped on a coolant leak being caused by a water pump in that engine leads me to believe that it's a well-known problem.

Opensourcepirate
Aug 1, 2004

Except Wednesdays

A.C.A.M. posted:

Crunchy shifts.

Echoing what my1999gsr said about the hydraulic system, my friend had a similar problem with his Ford Contour, and it ended up being a bad master or slave cylinder (I forget which).

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

Opensourcepirate posted:

Edit: Actually went out to my car to verify things.

The behavior is exactly the same when using the drivers side window control (of the passenger window) and the passenger side control.

When you press the control, either up or down, there's a click sound from the door, followed by another click sound about a second later or when the button is released - whichever comes first. So if you just tapped the button, it would be a rapid fire click-click. If you hold the button, it sounds almost like the tick tock of a clock, with one tick and a slightly different sounding tick about a second later. If the car is off, there's enough current draw to slightly dim the dome light for exactly the time from the first click to the second click. If you hold the button down, there's no sign of significant current draw after the second click.

Well, it sounds like the window motor is encountering excessive resistance when it tries to operate so it's thermal protection shuts it off. At this point I'd pull the inner door panel off, remove the window motor, plug it into the door harness and try to operate it. If it makes the click noise and the dome light dims but the motor doesn't run than I'd say your window motor is done. If it runs forward and reverse fine then I'd think your window regulator assembly is failing and jamming up. If the motor is bad then you'll need to replace it. Here's the catch - I think the window motor is also the control module for that door and it has to be coded correctly to the vehicle so if you go to the wrecker for a replacement it may or may not work. The driver's window motor is for sure the control module for that door but I can't remember if the passenger side module is a slave to it or if it exists on it's own.

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

Blackdawgg posted:

Do you know a lot about the DSG? I don't know if this is a problem or not but my DSG always seems to have the clutch engaged and wanting to creep forward.

Two examples.
If I stop the car slowly and smoothly it won't disengage the clutch, if I put it into neutral I can definitely feel it disengage.

If I stop the car quickly with moderate braking it will disengage the clutch by itself and putting the car into neutral when stopped doesn't change anything. It will engage the clutch again when I let off the brake.

I tried to explain this to the dealer but they looked at me like I was crazy. Also my GTi sounds like a diesel and my exhaust tip is dirtier than those new TDi's. Why do they run so rich?

What year is you GTI?

Tigertron
Jan 19, 2007

Tiger, tiger, burning bright

Autism Sundae posted:

Is this in California? California law requires seller to pass smog.
http://www.dmv.ca.gov/vr/smogfaq.htm

If it needs parts to pass then who knows how expensive that will be, you can easily spend several hundred on replacing sensors and catalytic converter. You can buy it as-is but if it just needs "minor tweaks" to pass then why the hell wouldn't the seller fix it and jack the price. You can also "pass" smog by paying certain shops but that's obviously not legal.

Also a car doesn't "go out of circulation" over a few months. Sounds like the guy couldn't pass smog, lapsed on registration which he can't renew until he gets smogged, and is now trying to offload the van quickly to someone who doesn't know any better.

Thanks, honestly I think I just need a pick up and a pop-up camper. I just love romanticizing the Westfalia.

primitive
Mar 14, 2001


I AM A CHEAPSKATE WHO HAS HAD THE STUPID NEWBIE BABY AVATAR FOR 12 YEARS.
Will lowering springs cause premature suspension wear in my car? I have an early 2007 GTI, and the stock springs for that car make it look like a minivan. The switch to the lower ride height happened about a month after my car was produced. What I'm wondering is if I switch to springs that lower me to late-07 OEM equivalent, do I risk premature wear to any other parts of the suspension that might be tuned for the higher ride height?

http://www.mjmautohaus.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=2_6_8697_19901_19918_19919&info=Eibach_85100.140_Pro-Kit_Springs&products_id=1849

chutwig
May 28, 2001

BURLAP SATCHEL OF CRACKERJACKS

Autism Sundae posted:

I paid attention to this today and my GTI doesn't do anything like it, I can take off from a stop pretty smoothly as long as I don't gently caress up a shift. So maybe your issue is worth a trip to the dealer, although they probably won't be happy about boost gauges etc.


The 6-speed in my GTI is notchy but not to the point of grinding gears or anything. I don't have to push hard to get it into the gate, it just needs to be lined up with the gate properly, much more strict/less loose than other manual transmissions. Your gearbox is definitely abnormal though, being notchy and grinding gears aren't the same.

I have found the throttle response in my GTI to be a little unusual from time to time at low revs, above and beyond normal turbo lag. As far as the shifter feel goes, I think I've best heard it described as "rubbery", and it does feel a bit notchy, though I only actually ground gears in it once when I booted the clutch shifting into 5th. I think 1-2 is a bit too widely spaced and that shift is unnecessarily difficult to make smoothly.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

heat
Sep 4, 2003

The Mad Monk
I bought a 94 jetta with a broken front spring, and I found a guy who put new struts on his mk3 and then promptly bent the frame in an accident, so I figured I would just buy the whole assembly from him. After building my own tool for the absolutely ridiculous front strut mounts (grinding down both sides of a 22mm socket so I can grab it with a crescent wrench while putting a hex key down through the middle to hold the post) and that not working, the only other thing the internet is telling me is that an impact wrench can pop those nuts right off without bothering with a hex key to stop the post from spinning. Is this accurate?

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply