VW/Audi Exorcism Thread

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alternate.eago: Jul 19, 2006; Insert randomness here.

I guess I didn't learn after my experience with the Tiguan..... I traded it in on Saturday on a 13 Jetta Sport Wagon TDI, with the DSG. Pictures will be posted when I take them. I will say that commuting in the Fine Corinthian Leather appointed interior while getting 40+ mpg is pretty awesome.

# ¿ Mar 11, 2014 16:42

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# ¿ Apr 27, 2024 15:09

alternate.eago: Jul 19, 2006; Insert randomness here.

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Combat Pretzel posted:

Oh god, the electronic parking brake is the best thing ever. Disengages automatically as long you're wearing your seat belt. Kessy and its start button, too.

I hated that thing in the Tiguan so much! In order to do the brake pads in the car, you need the VAG software, otherwise you will damage it. Thea auto-hold feature on the tiptronic that accompanied it was nice for drive-thrus.

actionjackson posted:

Let me know how you like it, that was probably my second choice if the A4 Avant fell through

Thus far I like it a lot. It's suspension sucks up the bumpy DC roads nicely, has plenty of passing power on the highway, and returns great fuel economy. The DSG is awesomely smooth. It doesn't handle as nicely as my Tiguan (which was a basically a taller GTI) but it also isn't as jarring over bumps. I do wish the back seat had a bit more legroom, as I'm kinda tall so I have the seat set back a bit far. I wish it had the back up camera, it would make parallel parking easier.

As nice as the Audi is, the stealth factor of the JSW is pretty awesome, it may help prevent profiling by the five-o. I'm going to get laser jammers (that also double as parking sensors so I don't scuff up my nice paint), because it is so easy to exceed the speed limit and it feels like no effort in this car. :getin:

BraveUlysses posted:

fixed

Oh I know it was the fake leather. I'm actually really excited about it because as much as I loved look of the 2 tone interior in the Tiguan, the beige cloth seats were IMPOSSIBLE to keep clean.

As this is my first new car, (first one I've ever owned without at least 2 digits before a comma in the odometer) and first diesel how much differently should I be driving it before the 1,000 mi mark?

The TDI forums states that this is how it should be driven/broken in:

TDI Forums User posted:

New generation TDI's with Common Rail/DPF/SCR and those with DSG transmissions

Rules that apply for the life of the car
-When the engine is cold (below the first 3 white marks at the base of the temp gage) rev the engine to at least 2,500 rpms.
-When the engine is warmed up (above the first three white marks) Rev the engine to no less than 3,000 rpms.
The reason for this is to keep the turbo on boost, clear the VNT guide vanes and apply firm pressure to the rings for optimal sealing against blow-by gasses. The rings need the boost to seal since its a turbo charged engine, babying the engine is detrimental and will lead to issues with compression if done so for very long.
-Keep rpms as close to 2000 rpm as possible when driving at a steady speed. This promotes optimum temperatures for the DPF and keeps the engine in the middle of its most efficient rpm range (1800-2200 rpm).
-Allow the DSG or automatic transmission to determine the optimal gear and engine rpm. It knows better than you... Provided you have it trained to be biased to the sport mode the engines shift points will occur at the ideal ranges.

Redline is defined as the maximum rpm allowed by the engine, in the case of all TDI's it is 5,100 rpm. The maximum physical limit of a TDI engine due in part to it's short stroke is approximately 8,800 rpm (this is when you will throw a rod or damage a piston, this rpm is not possible unless you force a downshift into 1st gear while driving 80mph)

The instrument cluster shows a red BAND starting at or around 4600 rpm, most owners will find that very little power resides beyond this point due mostly to the ECU reducing fueling to respect the smoke map.

Adaptive Transmissions (DSG), "adapt" based on how you apply the power with your foot. Over time they will modify shift patterns with a bias to a "Sport" mode. Train the transmission to shift as close to the recomended rpm ranges below.

When your engine was first produced the motor was placed in a test cell and "Run-in" by a computer run dyno. The motor after the run-in was DRAINED OF ALL ITS FLUIDS (Oil, Coolant etc), the filters were replaced and a unique break-in oil was installed to promote a proper break-in once installed in the car as well as to protect the engine from corrosion during shipping to final assembly.

The "Break-in oil", YES VW does use a specially formulated "Break-In" oil formulated under an internal "TL" specification and produced by Fuchs. The oil is a group IV synthetic 5w30 formulated to comply with the LowSAPS VW507.00 requirements as well as the TL specifications for break-in. The oil is intended to allow a controlled rate of wear while protecting the engine and allowing the internal parts to seat proplerly during the engines first 10,000 road miles.

First 1,000 miles
Keep rpms below 3,800. Avoid steady rpms. Frequent firm (75%) application of power is strongly recomended up to a maximum engine rpm of 3,800. Avoid the use of cruise control so that you naturally fluctuate the power with your foot.
DO NOT CHANGE THE ENGINE OIL UNTIL 10,000 MILES!

1,000-5,000 miles
Use the full 5,100 rpm power range. THIS DOES NOT MEAN DRIVE AROUND AT 5100 RPM! This DOES mean to find the rpm range where your cars best power resides. Most owners will find that the best engine operating range to be between 2000rpm and 4200 rpm for the purpose of acceleration. At all costs avoid using full throttle below 2000 rpm the ECU will attempt to prevent you from applying full power in this range, work with it and don't request it with your foot.
Continue to avoid steady rpms and avoid the use of cruise control. occasional application of full throttle (100%) is recomended to help seat the rings. City driving is ideal for breaking in a TDI due to frequent stops and acceleration. DO NOT CHANGE THE ENGINE OIL UNTIL 10,000 MILES!

5,000-10,000 miles
Use of the cruise control is ok at this point since most of the initial break in has occured. Continue to use occasional full throttle accelerations to continue to seat the rings. You will notice the engine become slightly louder during this phase due to less friction from the engine breaking in (normal for a diesel to become louder under lighter loads). If your going on a long drive and you are using the cruise, every so often step on the peddle to accelerate up about 20 mph then coast back down to your preset speed.

Your first oil change is due at 10,000 miles DO NOT change it early! Oil analysis supports 10,000 miles as being realistic for a first change interval. Wear metals will remain at safe levels during this entire first interval thanks to the initial run-in and flush at the factory before the engine was installed in your car.

10,000-60,000
This is when the rest of the break in occurs. The engine from the factory will check out with about 475psi of compression pressure out of the crate. It will take at least 60,000 miles to reach the peak pressure of 510 psi. For the most part once you get to 10,000 miles your compression will be around 490 psi meaning that most of the break in has occured.

60,000- and for the remaining life of the motor
The owners have followed the advice above and do not have any oil consumption issues. This also means that with the higher pressure the engine is more efficient returning optimal fuel economy and reduced smoke output. I am still of the opinion that if possible use a LowSAPS 5w40 instead of the 5w30 oils ie Mobil 1 ESP 5w40 formula M (MB229.51, .6 Sulfated Ash)

Seems a little harsh, but after trying that driving style on my commute home yesterday, it did return better economy, and was way more fun.

# ¿ Mar 12, 2014 15:09

alternate.eago: Jul 19, 2006; Insert randomness here.

The dealership I bought my '13 JSW from had a 2010 with 67k miles on it parked right next to mine. They were asking the same amount of money for it as I paid for my brand new one. It was a CPO, and both were TDI. The CPO one did have the sunroof, and was a stick though.

# ¿ Apr 22, 2014 20:44

alternate.eago: Jul 19, 2006; Insert randomness here.

It can be worse, they could not line up the panels completely correctly, try to use aftermarket parts (seriously did they think I wouldn't notice the depot headlight, that was obviously completely different from the OEM on the other side?), and introduce a phantom draw that was so bad it would discharge the brand new battery overnight.

So glad I traded in the Tiguan (even though I took a huge bath on the loan).

The paintwork they did was phenomenal though. It was amazing that they matched that metallic blue so perfectly.

# ¿ Apr 24, 2014 20:31

alternate.eago: Jul 19, 2006; Insert randomness here.

Negromancer posted:

Please keep us updated on anything that comes from this. I am at about 8,500 miles on my '13, so I am very curious if there is something I should be watching for.

This also concerns me, as I'm at about 9,000 miles on my '13.

# ¿ Jun 18, 2014 14:05

alternate.eago: Jul 19, 2006; Insert randomness here.

Tyro posted:

I'm probably not going to drop the $500 on my 1.8T because I may have to sell it within the next year due to my job, but APR is having a sale for the next month in case anyone is considering a tune or any of their products.

Why did you have to let me know....
Anyone have any preferences for the TDI tunes?

# ¿ Jul 3, 2014 14:50

alternate.eago: Jul 19, 2006; Insert randomness here.

I'm really thinking about the APR one as there is a APR dealer close, they should be able to do it in house in a couple of hours (if they can connect to my ECU, I already called and talked to them about it--tech said occasionally they have cars that they are unable to do because it can't connect), and the DSG flash is optional, where as with the REVO, reviews say it is almost mandatory (and additional :10bux:

).

Malone makes you send the ECU to them, I already called the closest Malone Dealer to confirm. I can't have my Daily Driver down for the week or so that it would take.

# ¿ Jul 3, 2014 17:11

alternate.eago: Jul 19, 2006; Insert randomness here.

fknlo posted:

Did you end up getting the APR tune? How is it? I want the malone tune, but like you, can't really justify having the car down for an extended period of time. The closest REVO dealer is 3 hours away. I can walk to an APR dealer from my apartment.

Nope, haven't done it yet. I'm rethinking the APR tune, as I've been reading horror stories on the TDI forums.

Actually I think I may go with the Malone one. There is a dealer close to a friends house (about 2 hours away). I think they may be able to do it same day (though I need to call and confirm), and I would get the DSG tune as well, because from what I can tell it makes a bigger difference without sacrificing drive-ability in traffic, like the APR DSG tune does (supposedly it makes everything harsh). :homebrew:

# ¿ Jul 8, 2014 15:00

alternate.eago: Jul 19, 2006; Insert randomness here.

Is it just me, or is the battery really lovely in the MKVI TDI? I've already had to jump it, and it was only sitting for like 3 days. Anyone think one of the optima yellow tops would be a good idea?

# ¿ Oct 31, 2014 13:56

alternate.eago: Jul 19, 2006; Insert randomness here.

2013. Although I did have a couple of amps and a subwoofer installed recently, I mean that could be it, but the shop I took it to was extremely competent.

# ¿ Oct 31, 2014 17:40

alternate.eago: Jul 19, 2006; Insert randomness here.

CountOfNowhere posted:

Charge your battery with a proper charger. Chances are the shop ran it down, and the car's charging system won't ever really charge it back up properly.

I planed on doing that this weekend, but I think it's supposed to rain.

The JSW doesn't have a garage spot, so I may be able to do it Saturday night on on Sunday.

# ¿ Oct 31, 2014 20:40

alternate.eago: Jul 19, 2006; Insert randomness here.

8ender posted:

Oh man I can already feel the soft leather seats of my future bargain basement TDI hatchback.

Not real leather though, at least not in mine. I would rather they buy it back from me than put the goat piss injection system on it. I really don't want the ad blue system on my car, it's another chemical to buy, and another system that will probably fail down the road.

# ¿ Sep 29, 2015 15:53

alternate.eago: Jul 19, 2006; Insert randomness here.

I wanted them to buy it back so I could justify a v8 now that I have a shorter commute.

# ¿ Sep 29, 2015 19:50

alternate.eago: Jul 19, 2006; Insert randomness here.

Although in MD they don't actually emissions test these..... So I might just Malone tune it....

# ¿ Sep 29, 2015 20:23

alternate.eago: Jul 19, 2006; Insert randomness here.

Negromancer posted:

same for me, except I owe ~$16k still. I wasn't in any hurry to pay it off since we got the 0% financing deal from VW Credit.

I am mostly annoyed by this since right before the news broke, I was thinking about swapping my TDI out for an electric car, since we moved and I work from home, so I normally only drive maybe 10-15 miles a day. Now we are stuck with the car, and might take a hit if they do a buyback. One of the main reasons I bought the loving thing is because of the resale value. Before all this bullshit, I would have been able to get close to $25k for mine used, since its a 2013 with ~19k miles. Hell at this point I would take a e-golf, but for some reason they won't sell me one since I live in Washington.

I'm in the same boat. 2013, 50k miles bout it for 2 reasons, one my commute is around 30 miles each way (now, used to be 50); and two the resale value was going to help me get out of the underwater loan on my Tiguan (that I rolled over when I traded it in on the Jetta).

I'm wondering what will happen. Hopefully the buyback covers most of my loan, rolling over the "truck equity" from the Tiguan killed me (Tiguan had huge issues around 100k miles). Still enjoying the decent fuel economy though. Wish they would announce what they are going to do so I can decide if I'm going to have to replace the springs/struts in the JSW that are dead (MD/DC roads are rough).

# ¿ Jan 7, 2016 23:25

alternate.eago: Jul 19, 2006; Insert randomness here.

This is getting loving ridiculous: http://www.usatoday.com/story/money/cars/2016/03/24/volkswagen-emission-scandal-fix-court-hearing/82208076/

I just want to know if they are buying my car back or not, and if not how they are going to compensate me for the crazy loss in value. Just so I know if I have to keep it because its now mostly worthless, or I should start car shopping seriously.

# ¿ Mar 24, 2016 17:49

alternate.eago: Jul 19, 2006; Insert randomness here.

For shits and giggles I had mine valued on trade in they offered 9k.

EDIT: 2013 Sportwagen premium sound option.

alternate.eago fucked around with this message at 14:07 on Mar 25, 2016

# ¿ Mar 25, 2016 01:03

alternate.eago: Jul 19, 2006; Insert randomness here.

So some news:
http://www.cnbc.com/2016/04/20/vw-to-pay-us-customers-5000-each-to-settle-dieselgate-die-welt.html
http://www.reuters.com/article/us-volkswagen-emissions-court-idUSKCN0XH0ZV
http://www.reuters.com/article/us-volkswagen-emissions-usa-idUSKCN0XH2CX?mod=related&channelName=businessNews

But we'll have to wait until tomorrow to know for sure if this is true.

# ¿ Apr 20, 2016 20:06

alternate.eago: Jul 19, 2006; Insert randomness here.

So it looks like there was a settlement, and I think they are buying back the TDIs:
http://www.usatoday.com/story/money/cars/2016/04/21/volkswagen-emissions-hearing/83332794/

Important bit, there are now gag orders on what exactly the settlement is, and there is a definite grain of truth to the amounts that leaked out yesterday, as the judge chastised the room for leaks.

# ¿ Apr 21, 2016 17:56

alternate.eago: Jul 19, 2006; Insert randomness here.

qutius posted:

I'm leaning toward the v60 myself, and have been keeping an eye on a few of the 2015s for sale in the area. Have you driven one yet? That's next on my list to try.

I actually just bought a V60 Cross Country. It is miles better than the Jetta wagon ever was, except for fuel economy. I can easy live with the handling trade off for the ride quality in a DD, but driving the Volvo to work makes me miss the 38mpg of the Jetta.

Negromancer posted:

I have not been looking that hard since I don't want to spend the time until I can actually buy something. I have only driven an i3 because of the reachnow car share service that BMW started in Seattle, and I have a driven a friend's E class before, but not a wagon. The only thing that I do not like about the V60 is it seems like most of the ones for sale are the Cross Country version which I do not like, and the few non-cross country's seem to be base model FWD ones. I really don't need AWD, but I wouldn't mind having it.

The way the Cross Country version sucks up bumps, makes it amazing for a Daily, especially with the way the roads are out here. I had completely killed all 4 struts in the Jetta by 50k miles, every time I took it in for service i was told that another strut was "catastrophically leaking"

# ¿ Jul 28, 2016 15:17

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# ¿ Apr 27, 2024 15:09

alternate.eago: Jul 19, 2006; Insert randomness here.

Honestly the plastic flares aren't that bad, from a distance they kinda look like extensions of the wheel well (depending on color of the car).

I can't wait until VW buys back the pollution machine, but I already miss the fuel economy.

# ¿ Jul 28, 2016 18:32

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