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Does putting universal green coolant in your 2.7t really damage the engine that badly? Cause I bought one pre-owned and the "G12 ONLY" was rubbed off the expansion tank...now my coolant system is leaking every which place and starts steaming up after five minutes of driving. Did the green stuff eat through all my hoses or what?
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May 3, 2010 03:32
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I've got the notorious OBD P0741 (Torque Converter Clutch Circ Performance or Stuck Off) code in my 2002 A6 Tiptronic -- is my torque converter really shot or can I just change out the fluid? I'm hearing mixed opinions and I'm sure if I ask a shop they'll tell me I need a new TC. Why would they pass up a chance at $1,500+ in labor?
Neon Machete fucked around with this message at 00:20 on May 26, 2010 |
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May 26, 2010 00:15
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my1999gsr posted:I have grave doubts that a fluid change will help your problem. Believe me when I tell you, no technician in the world wants to pull the tranny on an A6 - it's no fun and on flat rate you have a really hard time making money doing it so we don't call a torque converter unless there's any other way explain or repair the problem. Are you having any driveability issues or is the MIL on? I'm not having any driving issues, but the MIL keeps popping up about once a day. I've cleared it about three times and it continues coming back. I'm pretty hesitant to continue driving it with this problem--do I want to pay two grand now or six or more grand later when my transmission dies?
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May 27, 2010 18:33
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I've got some bad vibration at freeway speeds and I'm beginning to think it may be the engine mounts. Are these tough to replace on a 2.7 A6 (ie do I have to remove the lock carrier?), because the last thing I feel like doing right now is putting the car in service mode (I just got done replacing the timing belt and would rather not go through all that work all over again...)
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Jun 8, 2010 02:05
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Wow, I think I've had like 4 problems arise since this thread first opened. Glad it's here! So now I have a weird clunk/rattle/grinding type noise coming from the front passenger side wheel. I can't really hear it when I'm going straight at highway speeds, but I can going slow over rough road, around turns, and over speed bumps. I'm guessing it's a suspension issue - any common replacements in this area? What should I look for when I get it up on jacks? It's a 2002 A6 quattro.
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Jul 6, 2010 18:54
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I'm considering retrofitting steering wheel radio controls. It looks like I'm going to have to replace the airbag unit to do this, as the controls are built into it. If I get a unit with steering wheel controls off ebay and swap them out, should I be okay? As in, will the new airbag explode in my face or turn on my airbag light or MIL? 02 A6 btw.
Neon Machete fucked around with this message at 18:02 on Jul 12, 2010 |
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Jul 12, 2010 17:47
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my1999gsr posted:We don't do a lot of retro-fitting so keep that in mind. Thanks for the pointers. I'll take a look at the pin arrangements before I go through with it. Do you think I might be able to change the appropriate module coding using something like VAG-com?
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Jul 13, 2010 02:29
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veedubfreak posted:When my water pump poo poo itself, the additional labor/parts to do the timing belt was around 300 bucks. When my dad had his 1.8t passat timing belt done it was 1200 bucks and took them a week cause no one at that shop had ever done it before >< What kind of VW shop has never done a TB change before? Ha. Regardless of where you go, you are going to be paying a lot. It really isn't as hard as people make it out to be - it was one of the first things I did when I got my A6 and I had no experience with VW engines (I'd only worked on Jeeps which are easy as piss). Would you rather pay a shop $800 plus to do it or pay $250 for a kit and learn a bit about your car and wrenching on it in the process? If you have an Audi but aren't in what I like to call the "Audi Tax Bracket," you will save yourself several thousands in the end if you learn to troubleshoot and repair problems. https://www.audiworld.com and several other Audi websites are immeasurably useful in diagnosing problems.
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Jul 17, 2010 01:36
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Where is the secondary air pump located on a 2.7T A6? I'm throwing codes about it after getting my car back from the shop for a TC change and I'm wondering if they broke something or if it's coincidental.
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Jul 26, 2010 23:05
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This is both extremely obscure and probably also a longshot, but do you have access to the pinout diagrams for the 619 (part number 4B0 907 487 J) and 608 (part number 4B0 907 487 D) multifunction steering wheel control modules? I'm building a custom wiring harness so that I can use one of these units and I need to know which one has the pinouts that I need and where to tap into them. Where do you think I could find this info? A simple google search doesn't seem to suffice.
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Jul 31, 2010 06:10
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my1999gsr posted:As an FYI - to replace the turn signal switch you must remove the airbag in the steering wheel, the steering wheel and the steering column trim so make sure you've got the tools to do it before you jump in. As a jump-off of this, I had to replace the turn signal stalk in my car and encountered a bolt requiring a "M12 triple-square driver" (this may also be in your car, not quite sure). Instead of wasting the money buying a set of these just for one little job, use an Allen wrench - if you passed geometry, you should notice that it fits perfectly 
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Aug 4, 2010 02:04
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PBCrunch posted:Can I check codes on this VW with a standard OBD-II reader or do I need one of those VAG-COM things? A standard OBD-II reader will work just fine. It won't give you as in-depth of a scan as VAG-COM will, but it should suffice for a CEL. I would just write all the codes down and google them, I usually do that and you can find a detailed description of the actual problem pretty readily.
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Aug 6, 2010 20:11
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Understeer posted:I'm doing replacing the disks and pads on my 2005 A4 1.8T this weekend. I found a guide online, and it appears to be a pretty straightforward job. I've done brakes before, just not on this car. I've got the PB blaster and caliper tool ready. Anything special I need to know? Pretty easy! I was gonna suggest the caliper tool but you've already got that down. Aside from that, it's just like any other car.
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Aug 18, 2010 06:24
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Woohoo! More problems from this piece of poo poo car. Now I'm throwing a P0706 Trans Range code. I've read around and can't find any sort of definitive answer as to what I need to replace - I've only found information for CVTs (which I don't have). Where is the range sensor? Is that what I have to replace or do I need to check the wiring around my TCU? I don't see why there would be anything wrong with it as I haven't had any flooding in the cabin or anything.
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Aug 22, 2010 00:08
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my1999gsr posted:Sorry man, I forgot what year and body style your car is. 2002 C5 A6. It might be P706 I think, I'm just using some scanner thing I bought from Autozone a while back. I'll check the pins though, thanks.
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Aug 22, 2010 05:53
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Kind of a broad question, but I'm still diagnosing some transmission issues and I don't have a Bentley Manual. How exactly does the Tiptronic auto transmission system work? I'm used to older autos with vacuum line systems where lots of issues could be traced back to vacuum leaks, but I'm not finding much info regarding the setup on Audis. If I'm trying to diagnose an issue, would I be more likely to look for corrosion/wiring problems as opposed to vacuum leaks?
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Sep 10, 2010 07:49
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JHVH-1 posted:I don't know anything about this stuff, but maybe this has the kind of info you are looking for: Aww, I got excited when I saw that there were 100 pages...but it's for CVTs, not Tiptronics. Still might be an interesting read regardless! Edit: I checked out that site and it has an amazing wealth of information. I found documentation for my transmission but it is in German. Apparently this is how my transmission works: 
Neon Machete fucked around with this message at 08:43 on Sep 10, 2010 |
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Sep 10, 2010 08:31
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Took off my belly pan and it looks like both of my turbos pissed oil all over the wiring for my transmission electronics. So I think I solved my problem...while discovering an even bigger one in the process. I guess since it looks like I'm going to have to pull the engine and swap out the turbos, I might as well upgrade to K04s (from the Audi RS4) while I'm in there, as well as maybe a beefed up torque converter (which is oh-so-painful to do since I just dropped 2,300 getting it replaced. Oh well). Maybe it's about time to pop my project thread cherry? I haven't seen any Audi ones around during my time here...
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Sep 10, 2010 21:03
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.JPG) I'm just about done pulling my engine to replace my turbos and fix various other oil leaks. I've traced back some transmission issues to the neutral safety switch that has something to do with the gear shift interlock (I think? Maybe you can verify this) When the car was running, I would put it in reverse and it would pause for a while, before slamming into reverse roughly and all of the gears PRNDS would show up illuminated on the dash. Upon putting it in drive, it seemed as if the car was stuck in a higher gear. I would have to turn it off and on again to get it to engage in 1st gear in drive. Soon, it got to the point where I would have it in reverse, and if my foot wasn't on the pedal, the little foot-on-brake indicator light on the gear shifter would light up - I'd push my foot in and it would click and go away - as if the car was in park. So, since I have the engine pulled, I can access the transmission a bit easier. I'm wondering, however, if it would be possible to turn the car in accessory with the engine removed and shift through the gears, to help troubleshoot repairs. Keep in mind, the wiring harness is entirely removed from all the sensors on the engine, so I don't know if the car will poo poo itself. Also, I don't want to put it in gear and end up moving anything out of sync with the engine. The engine has been removed at the bellhousing. Might seem like a stupid question, but I wanted to verify before I hosed something up majorly. Also, if the problem I described sounds like something other than the neutral safety switch, let me know.
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Sep 16, 2010 04:44
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Got my motor pulled. Noticed the transmission input shaft that slides into the torque converter is a bit hosed. Not sure if it's my fault or the shop who did my TC job, but is this a big deal and can it be replaced? Again, C5 A6 2.7T Quattro Tip.
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Sep 19, 2010 22:15
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my1999gsr, did you have any luck finding anything out about that bent transmission input shaft?
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Sep 29, 2010 21:17
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Borrowed a friend's camera so I could get some better pics of that transmission input shaft. Thanks for looking into it..JPG) .JPG) .JPG) Also, should I be concerned about that surface rust? I've had my engine out for a good month and we've been getting some rain. Can I just wipe it off and be fine?
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Oct 3, 2010 23:11
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Beta Ray Bill posted:Can anyone recommend a good place to buy after market parts for a 1996 A4 quattro with the b5 in it? Thanks Performance or OEM replacement? I usually go with: https://www.ecstuning.com https://www.jhmotorsports.com https://www.blauparts.com https://www.awe-tuning.com edit: also, B5 is the generation, not the engine type. IE 94-01 is B5, 01-05 is B6, 05-08 is B7, etc. Neon Machete fucked around with this message at 01:04 on Oct 13, 2010 |
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Oct 13, 2010 01:00
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How can you set the timing perfect on the 2.7T engine? I had to remove the belt for some gasket repairs and I think the timing may have gotten screwed up in the process. Is there any way to set the crank at TDC and then visually inspect the cams to make sure that they are in the correct position? Is this sort of thing outlined in the Bentley Manual that you know of? Cause I've been sort of putting off buying it but if there is a good outline of how to get it right I might just buy it.
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Oct 18, 2010 20:40
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What does it mean when my driver's side cam ticks line up perfect, like this:  But my passenger side cam ticks look like this: Intake:  Exhaust:  The cams are locked together with the VW German Engineered Cam Locking Bar and this is what they look like with the valve covers off. So what does that mean for my timing? Also, which piston is up (firing) at TDC in the 2.7T? I've heard it's 3, and it's not actually totally completely up at TDC. Is this right, cause it sounds weird to me...
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Oct 27, 2010 02:44
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wolrah posted:TDC means top dead center, which could apply to any piston and just means the piston is as far away from the crank as it gets (and obviously on the compression stroke in a four stroke engine). In the context of timing TDC almost always refers to the #1 cylinder. I know TDC means piston 1 is up, but I set the crank at TDC and 1 sure as hell isn't up. I know I'm not 180 out either cause another rotation yields the same result. I'm pretty sure Audis are just weird about this, cause I checked and piston 3 is definitely up at TDC.
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Oct 29, 2010 20:54
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Just got my 2.7T back in after a grueling engine pull. Now I'm leaking oil - it's dripping from the rear of the engine where the bellhousing meets the block. I stuck my finger up in the bellhousing and the flywheel and what little bits I could feel didn't have oil on them, so I'm REALLY hoping that it isn't the rear main seal. If it is, I'll probably just keep putting oil in it every week because I am NOT loving pulling that thing anytime again in the near future. Any other ideas as to what it could be? I replaced the valve cover gaskets, half-moon gaskets, and the cam caps when I had the engine out. edit: Also, I had it on a hoist for about five months while it wasn't in the car and there didn't appear to be anything dripping from the rear main seal. When I pulled the bellypan off the car, there was a 10mm bolt and nut laying in it. Neon Machete fucked around with this message at 01:18 on Mar 14, 2011 |
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Mar 14, 2011 01:08
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my1999gsr posted:I know it's a pain in the rear end, but can you post a pic? Are your oil supply and drain lines from the turbos tight and gasketed? Yeah, both lines are tight and have gaskets where they connect to the turbos. The driver side line has a bit of oil on it where it connects to the oil pan but is otherwise dry (this isn't where it's dripping from so I'm led to believe that the leak is just dripping onto it here) The passenger side is completely dry. Here are the best pics I could get together. Oil accumulating and dripping from the bottom of the bellhousing and subframe  Oil accumulating and dripping from the oil lines below the bellhousing/the transmission pan  Oil accumulating on the oil pan (the drain plug is tight!)  More oil on the side of the oil pan, and a bit on the bottom of the driver side turbo oil line 
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Mar 16, 2011 21:13
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Where are all the grounds located on the 2.7T? My voltage meter is fluctuating noticeably while driving. It drops at idle, then strangely enough it hops back up to twelve when I'm taking hard left turns - this seems like a loose wire to me.
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Mar 30, 2011 22:10
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Where is the ignition/starter fuse located on the 2002 A6 (2.7T)? I've checked the fuse box inside the driver's side on the dash and the ECU box under the driver's side plenum and came up with nothing. Had a bad connection on the starter and I fixed it but the car still won't crank or anything at all, which leads me to believe a fuse blew somewhere. I tried jumping the solenoid manually and it spun, so that's not the issue. e: Maybe a better question - which relay on the relay carrier is for the starter? I don't think the starter system has a fuse, does it? Neon Machete fucked around with this message at 05:20 on Jun 18, 2011 |
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Jun 18, 2011 02:00
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My 2.7T Tiptronic A6 had been having a rough time shifting. It would take a while to downshift, and when it did, it would be really rough. Trying to get going from a stop would be hard sometimes because the car would act as if it was in neutral and would take a second to get in gear. I figured it was a transmission fluid issue so I made an appointment with a local shop to get the fluid serviced. I was coming up my driveway the day before the appointment with the transmission in limp mode. It could barely make the incline and was making a high pitched grinding noise, when all of the sudden I heard a noise sort of like running over a glass bottle and the car turned off, pouring out smoke. I looked under the car and all of my transmission fluid was pouring onto the ground. The car starts but won't go into gear - duh, it doesn't have any transmission fluid. What does this sound like? I'm already in the process of pulling the engine with the tranny attached and have heard about the input shaft seal going out where the TC mates with the transmission. I've also heard it could be the ATF pump. Have you worked with anything like this in the past?
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Aug 15, 2011 22:48
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| # ¿ Apr 18, 2024 14:44 |
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(02 A6 2.7) I recently swapped out my old 5HP19 FAQ code transmission with an identical used one (80k miles). I took apart the transmission to swap in and visually inspected it - planetary gears looked fine, as well as the bands, and the valve body seemed to be in good condition. I installed the transmission and TC and have filled it up with about 8.5 liters of fluid (transmission was completely empty, a little bit of fluid in the TC but not much and hardly any fluid in the cooler lines). I've read that these transmissions have a capacity of 9.3 liters or so. I'm fine in 1st and 2nd, but from third up there's some really major slippage. RPM goes high like it's in neutral, then it slams into gear and goes into limp mode. My traction control light is stuck on too, and the ABS and BRAKE lights flash occasionally. Here's my codes, pulled with VCDS from the tranny module: 17118 - Gear 4: Incorrect Ratio P0734 - 35-00 - - 18114 - Transmission Faulty P1706 - 35-00 - - Also throwing this one on and off: 17114 - Gear Ratio Monitoring: Incorrect Gear Ratio P0730 - 35-00 - - I plan on getting it on four jacks (for the fourth time) tomorrow to see if I can get more fluid in. Would the slippage be that bad if it was a matter of fluid?
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Jun 13, 2012 05:19
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