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nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

So I’m considering purchasing a VW (there’s a nice 2017 Jetta and Golf in the area). With maintainability in mind, what would you pick? Realistically, I’m not sure how much I’d really do, but I think I’d be up for the basics and maybe brakes and suspension. Would one really be worse? Both felt like good cars with nothing obviously wrong.

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nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

Sure, the Golf is definitely better equipped and not that much more. I’ve enjoyed my Hondas, but I’m not really finding anything used that’s too appealing. The figures I’ve found seem to say that a VW is probably going to cost more to maintain/own. Would that be fair to say?

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

Murgos posted:

That said there are lots of dedicated VW shops staffed by people who are passionate about VWs. You may not want to mod your VW but they should still be able to help you with pretty much anything you need assuming you don't just use the dealer.

Yeah, I’m lucky enough to have two local independent shops nearby. The Golf would need its 60K service in a year, plus a few things now (brake fluid, cabin air filter), so I think I’ll try talking them down a bit once I have some numbers.

Also, is it a lifetime fluid in the 5-speeds? No filters either right?

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

dialhforhero posted:

I would never trust a lifetime tranny fluid ever. I have a Pontiac G6 and at 100k I flushed and cleaned out my transmission fluid. Even though there were no chips and the fluid was fine I still believe the $150 or whatever is worth it to maintain a healthy transmission.

Makes perfect sense. I did end up getting the Golf (!), so I'll be spending some time getting acquainted with what's in store.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

I'm thinking about doing some refreshing on the Golf over the summer, just the brakes and shocks are what I'm thinking so far. Neither job should be too terrible, should they? Anybody able to get torque specs for the various fasteners for either of those jobs? Also, would this Triple Square Bit Socket Set be good enough for relatively light use?

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

meatpimp posted:

Rear brake caliper bracket bolts. lol.

Yeah, maybe that disqualifies the light use statement, cause I do want 'em to work. I could spend more money, but I don't think there's any intermediate between tool trucks and stuff like this.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

So I bought a CPO 2017 Golf about a month ago with a 1.8T. After a week or two it developed a squeak at low speeds, especially when turning. They replaced a handful of parts (crankshaft pulley, wheel bearing, strut bearing, serpentine belt and tensioner).

Well, they called just a bit ago, and said they found a bunch of metal in the oil after changing it just recently and they're going to be replacing the engine and turbo. Luckily this is all under warranty.

I feel conflicted. On the one hand, they've replaced and checked a whole bunch of things, and it'll hopefully all be remedied. On the other, this is a car with 50,000 miles that had oil changes every 5,000 and seemed to be well taken care of. I don’t know, maybe it’s just luck.

Anyway, sorry I needed to vent I guess. Any advice? Worth replacing the clutch or anything else?

Carnage pic for kicks:

nitsuga fucked around with this message at 00:32 on May 17, 2020

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

bigman.50grand posted:

That's... a ton of poo poo to randomly replace to find a squeak.

They're replacing the entire engine and turbo? I say run with it. You lucked in to a brand engine with all the 50k stuff still under warranty. Just make sure the engine warranty extends past the current time/mileage service window and enjoy your new car.

Yeah, just drive the thing, that's the answer I'm thinking. Some web searching found that VW engines might be more likely to fail than most (1 in 52, source: https://www.thecarexpert.co.uk/most-reliable-engines/), but I figure do the maintenance and send in an oil sample when the oil is changed next.

As far as the parts go, I was surprised they even took on the job at all. Based on my warranty paperwork, it sounded like they didn't fix "noises", but that was all the more I pointed out to them, and they've gone and done all this.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

dialhforhero posted:

Don’t mod your engine because this exact thing happened to my buddy and because he had dome some modding they didn’t have to honor the warranty. He was hosed.

Hehe, I decided to pass on the ECU tune one of my co-workers encouraged me to do. A 70hp boost might be nice, but like hell if I'm doing that to my one and only that I haven't even made one payment on.

nitsuga fucked around with this message at 00:33 on May 19, 2020

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

Interesting. It was the APR my co-worker showed me, but I’ll let this blow over before I do anything too wild with the car. I’m in the rust belt, so maybe it’s not worth trying to preserve it forever anyway.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

Thumposaurus posted:

I had to have the engine on my 07 GTI replaced when it had about 85,000 miles on it. Luckily it was determined to be a manufacturing defect and VW paid for it even though it was out of warranty. Car now has 185,000 miles on it and I haven't had any problems since then.

It took the dealer about a month to do the work I think a lot of that time was waiting on the new engine to arrive from Germany. My dealer was really cool and gave me a loaner while they fixed it. I got to stop in when they got the new engine in and chatted with the tech a bit he was stoked to be doing the work. It was much more exciting than the run of the mill maintenance he usually got to do there.

Yup, they’ve been pretty great honestly. Rocking a loaner Tiguan, which isn’t half bad. Probably going to spring for the clutch overhaul too, as they’ll do it for the cost of the kit. Not cheap, but hopefully I never have to worry about it again. Definitely hoping for a success story like yours.

Still curious about a tune, but it’s leagues ahead of anything else I’ve had as it is. That turbo I tell ya.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

Thumposaurus posted:

I paid for a clutch and flywheel as VW considered those wear items and not covered by still $700 for a new engine wasn't a bad deal.
They originally thought it was just the cam follower causing the problem but as they tore into it more it was something with the crank shaft. They showed me it when I stopped by the end of the crank was able to move back and forth in the block by about 1/2" :captainpop:

Yeah, I asked about a flywheel, and boy those are a pretty penny at $800 or so. I’m pretty sure it’s dual mass, so not really something that can be machined I hear. I’m gonna talk to an independent VW shop about it too, but I’m curious if you’d still opt for it. Dealer said I could probably forgo the both really, but they understand there are benefits to replacing the clutch, pressure plate, and throw out bearing. The flywheel not so much in their opinion.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

Regarding the flywheel, I’m still thinking about doing it. Everyone I talked to said they’d check it out, but the dealer is saying they’d want to be done as soon as possible, not waiting on the part. I’ve got a few questions for them though.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

Troy Queef posted:

so after three years with a Saab that was beautiful yet tempramental and expensive, i'm making my way back to VWs. probably going to get a Passat TDI from a local dealer here, which is extra good because right now they have a 0% for 60 months offer on certified pre-owned cars, and the one I want is certified. test-drove one and...man, i like it.

A diesel Passat sounds cool! I’ve been liking my TSI Golf, though it ate an engine within a month of buying it with 50K on the odometer. Good as new now though.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

flightless greeb posted:

No I think they're both going, no more wagons for volkswagen!

*In the US: https://www.caranddriver.com/news/a28421961/volkswagen-golf-sportwagen-alltrack-discontinued/

I’ll scream into the void on my own.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

Mr. Apollo posted:

All the Audis I’ve had made a high pitched whine with a small thump when I opened the driver’s door after they had been sitting for a few hours. It was the fuel system pressuring.

Yeah, I think most modern VAG card pressurize the fuel pump when you do that. My Golf whines when I get anywhere near the car with my fob. Planning on asking the dealer about that a little later though, as it hasn’t drained the battery or anything yet.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

keep the miata and buy a beater VW.

Ah, you mean a Sportswagen or Alltrack I believe.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

It’s got to be some kind of leak though, right? I get not wanting to go on the witch hunt though.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

Volguus posted:

A month ago I bought a 2018 VW Golf, 1.8T TSI manual (originally was planning for a GTI, but a TSI will do for now). Since I have a 20+ year gap in driving a manual, I was pretty much a total noob. I've been working on and improving in the dark arts of it and I'm getting better. But, one dragon's head is still rearing after all this time: going smoothly from 1st gear into 2nd gear. It seems to me that if I get up to 3K RPMs in the 1st gear, when I shift into 2nd it takes a bit to for the RPM to come down. If I let go of the clutch too soon/late it jerks me. I have to somehow get it just right. If I am driving uphill it's even worse, since the speed drops but the RPMs don't and I just have to let go of the clutch to not end up going into 2nd at 15KM/h.

I plan today to find some parking lot in the town to practice this specific thing, but I was wondering if I'm missing something. You guys who know VW engines and transmissions maybe have suggestions? The other gears have gotten better, this 1st to 2nd shift is, for now, still a mistery.

I've got a 2017 Golf TSI too, and I'm not the smoothest shifter, but I'll take a crack. One thing is I think I typically do that shift a little earlier than 3K, say maybe 2.5K or even 2K if I'm on city streets. I really don't pay much attention to the tach though and try to listen and feel for when I should shift instead. I think the shift points are going to change based on how aggressive you are with the acceleration in any given situation too, so I think at some point you have to focus more on the feel than the numbers (could just be me though, I've really never been a numbers person). Another is really trying to do things stepwise. Push the clutch all the way in, then shift, then ease on the throttle as you ease off the clutch. The 1-2 shift is definitely a hard one to keep smooth, but sticking to some basic principles like those help me.

Coming from a ratty Honda Fit, the shifting really was different but I've gotten used to it now. I think you'll get the hang of it too, but it does take some practice.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

I can’t weigh in on what to expect, but I’d encourage you to bring it in to your mechanic for an inspection if you do want to move forward with any of the cars you find. The condition of a 10 or so year old car will vary greatly based on what the owners have done over the years.

But anyway, I hope something works out. I know a few people who are still rocking a VW from that era and really haven’t had much beyond normal wear and tear bits to replace. One blown head gasket, but that was definitely in part caused by neglect. This is all anecdotal of course.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

MunchE posted:

Ran my last car without ever putting the front plate on, plan is the same here.


Thanks for the info. I'm thinking of having the local VAG shop give it a once over just in case while I'm still under Carvana warranty. I'll ask about this

Absolutely do this. We were just talking about this a page or two back. All cars benefit from a keen eye and having all the required maintenance items done, Audis kind of demand it. I’d much rather you catch and fix a few things now then face much bigger repairs later.

Nice car, though. Probably pulls pretty hard and shifts pretty smooth with that DSG.

nitsuga fucked around with this message at 01:26 on Mar 20, 2021

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

Dudeabides posted:

My Mk. V Jetta's vacuum pump is leaking oil now. My garage wants to do the repair for $1k. Does that sounds about right or should I shop around/DIY?

That sounds pretty high and if this video is any indication, it seems like a pretty doable DIY project: https://www.google.com/amp/s/blog.fcpeuro.com/how-to-replace-the-brake-vacuum-pump-volkswagen-mk5-gti-audi-a3-a4-vw-jetta%3fhs_amp=true

I’ll admit I’m out of my element with MK V’s, but I’d definitely call around if nothing else.

nitsuga fucked around with this message at 17:00 on Apr 5, 2021

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

User Error posted:

How are the Gen 3 ea888 1.8s holding up? I'm eyeballing TDI Sportwagens but I dont know if I want to worry about the HPFP and general emissions issues. The 1.4 sounds kind of gutless, how is the driving experience with those?

I own a Golf with the 1.8T, and I had to have the engine replaced at ~50,000 miles despite getting pretty close to 5,000 mile oil changes all its life. Luckily it was all covered by the warranty. I try not to worry about it too much, and plan on keeping up with the oil changes.

I’ve also driven a couple Golfs with the 1.4T, and haven’t found them noticeably slower than the 1.8, but I’m a slow and steady driver. The 1.4 is quite a bit lighter, and it does seem to make the car feel a little more nimble too. I haven’t driven a Sportswagen (or a diesel VW) though, so sorry if this isn’t helpful.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

Yeah, the offer from them for my Golf is pretty tempting, but we’ll see what I do. Probably would use the cash to get a GTI, so it would be in keeping with the AI spirit.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

minivanmegafun posted:

what

hasn't every variant of the Golf ever been released in the US market? are we that allergic to hatchbacks?

to be fair driving around Chicago my car feels tiny. everyone has trucks and crossovers now.

At least the Compact Car Only spots are almost always open when I need them and I don't find myself making multiple-point turns navigating parking garages and alleys

I guess so: https://www.topgear.com/car-news/usa/volkswagen-will-no-longer-sell-golf-america

:-/

Not totally digging the MK8 either, so this is all kind of a blow for me.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

I bought one and convinced my brother to do the same. Maybe my next car is a plane ride out of this hatchback hating hellsccape.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

actionjackson posted:

I brought my 2011 a4 avant into an actual german car mechanic, just wanted to ask about two things they said that needed to be addressed:

brake fluid system flush
replace OEM magnetic cam

total cost was 150 and 1080 respectively. does this seem reasonable? for the latter they mentioned something about oil starting to drip and it could get on the belt, causing major issues, if I don't get it fixed.

it looks like there are several parts involved for the second item

magnet update (?)
housing connector
camshaft seal outer
timing cover gasket
camshaft adjuster ma... (cut off but I assume magnet?)

I'll be curious what the experts around these parts think, but the magnetic camshaft adjuster does seem like a common problem for the A4, though it sounds like it's usually paired with an EPC (Engine Problem Code).

The brake fluid flush is fair and $30 less than I paid at the dealer, and should be done if it hasn't been in the last two years. I wouldn't blame you for seeking a second opinion on the camshaft replacement though. I think you're in the Twin Cities, so I'll throw out a recommendation for Good Carma for another Audi/VW specialty shop. They're pretty open to chatting on the phone too in my experience.

And VelociBacon, those mirrors look great. I'm still developing my spraying skills with scale models.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

actionjackson posted:

thanks for the recommendation, I just talked to Good Carma and will send in some info. The person on the phone seemed a bit... surprised? by the recommended repair, not sure.

No problem. If it’s who I’m thinking of, I feel like I can always tell how they feel about what I’m telling them too. But yeah, totally worth seeking a second opinion. I’d probably be happier and have more money if I did it more often myself.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

Proud Christian Mom posted:

To build a brand and brand loyalty, you've first got to offer something people can afford and not just continually chop models because they don't have the same ROI as your top end offerings.

Looking at you, Ford and GM

Also, see the humble Golf. :-/

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

That makes a lot more sense to me. Sounds like it’s the serpentine belt that gets covered in oil, at least once it’s gets real bad. I’m no Audi expert, but it does seem to fit what you’re describing.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

actionjackson posted:

okay thanks, I looked up this B8 diagram - it's not labeled, but I put an arrow about where this magnetic camshaft is, at least from what I recall them pointing at. I assume the serpentine belt is right below that on the "front" of the engine.

I'm wondering if that camshaft gasket goes on that circle thing my arrow is pointing to



The serpentine belt is the rubber belt that drives the alternator, A/C compressor. Definitely going to defer to what the mechanics have to say on it, but if a leak from a seal is getting oil onto your serpentine belt it's definitely worth addressing sooner than later. FWIW, that's a V6 Audi in the diagram. I'm not sure whether or not yours but if it is, I think they'd call that a balance shaft. It helps to smooth the timing chain's motion with its counterweights.

I was under the impression it's the I4 2.0T, and if that's the case, I think you're looking at part 18 in the diagram here: https://parts.audiusa.com/a/Audi_20...IN/F201030.html

In either case, it's not going to be a cheap repair, but it's one you want done well and diagnosed properly.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

Tyro posted:

Well thanks to this thread (mostly Greeb's photos!) I just bought a 2019 Alltrack S from Carvana, it gets delivered later this week.

I'll post photos once I get it. Original owner bought it new a year ago, it has less than 5K miles.

Should I bother having a shop do a PPI during the 7 day return window, or just drive it around to assess it, give it a look over myself, change the oil based on age, and call it a day since it has almost 70K miles left of factory warranty?

They're definitely not a guarantee against issues, but I would still recommend it. If you're comfortable skipping it, I'd understand, but it's a relatively minor expense in the grand scheme of things. You ought to post a picture or two though.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

I'm probably said poster, so I'll give you another recommendation of Volkswagen Man, they'd be worth talking to as well. There are some other Euro-focused places out there too, but I can't vouch for them.

Sorry it's bad news you got though. :-/

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

Well, that's relatively good news. I'm not sure it'd net you anything, but it might not hurt to get in touch with Audi Customer Support too. VW's representatives have been pretty helpful with my Golf saga, but your situation is pretty different (mine's still in warranty, et cetera).

Anyway, sorry to hear about all the other things going on. I was in a similar place a couple years ago too (sick dog, broken ankle, expensive car problems, et cetera), and yeah it was tough and really stressful.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

actionjackson posted:

Thanks to the poster who recommended the Volkswagen Man, I'm having the timing chain repair done there as we speak. I really hope I don't need a new balance shaft! Apparently that's rare, which is good because it's a $550-600 part. My loaner is an early 2000s beetle turbo with 147k miles, oh god

Aye, that was me. I’m glad that worked out, and you got a loaner with some character is all.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

Yeah, those things have some great torque and the 6-speed is a real treat. Congrats!

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

Butt Reactor posted:

If nothing else I'd figure the VAG cult here would know best of why or why not the current gen Jetta sucks. While I'm part of the MZR master race, I do like the the GLI; I'd be dumb to assume the R-Line trim is anywhere close to that on the base Jetta though, no?

I think the R-Line is pretty much just a body kit. Same motor, maybe a slightly nicer interior. I've only driven a couple of the base models, but they were OK. Interior feels kind of cheap with a decent amount of hard plastic, but the ride was pretty smooth and there was a sufficient amount of power. Consumer Reports gave this particular model of the Jetta a really poor reliability score, but I don’t put all my faith in those things.

Anyway, a GLI would be pretty boss, but if it isn’t in the budget I wouldn’t do the R-Line and I’d look carefully at what the trim levels offer. The Golf is more well liked, but its power train is the same as the Jetta’s now.

actionjackson posted:

The one other "big" thing I need is to replace the high pressure fuel pump and tappet. Estimate was $850, or about three jetta payments. Does this seem reasonable? The parts look to be in the 450-500 range.

I'm not too familiar with the job, but it looks like that's a decent price. You could always shop around, but I get wanting to get it back into good shape in one visit.

nitsuga fucked around with this message at 14:22 on Jun 8, 2021

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

Ok Comboomer posted:

I’m in the market for a new (used) car, and rather than take the insurance payout from my dead 2004 CRV and just put it all into buying something of the same vintage with cash, my family is strongly encouraging me to instead look for something much more recent (ie finance a $10-25k car that’s <5 years old instead of buying a $5-10k car from 2006 with cash)

So with that in mind I might as well follow my automotive crush dreams and look at a whole mess of used GTIs, right?

1) anything big I should be aware of going in? Model years/equipment trims to be avoided? Notable areas of wear and failure to look at in used specimens?

2) I know that at some point in the last five years (2017? 2018?) the optional SportPerformance package that added ~25 hp and some limited-slip gubbins (and that everybody recommended getting) was folded into the base model and made standard. What model year was that? How should I look for the addition/inclusion of those extra go-fast bits if I’m dealing with a used car seller who may not have all of those relevant details present in their documentation?

3) anything I should look for in terms of drivetrain/transmission health? What about mileage? I’d be looking at manuals, natch, and I’ve always heard horror stories about preowned stick shifts being sold or traded in by inexperienced owners who decided that manual wasn’t for them after they put 100k miles-worth of damage and wear on their transmission in <10k miles.

I have a good handle on feeling clutch health, etc in a vague sense but I have no idea how I’d meaningfully assess that in the context of buying a recent model year used car. TLDR I’m afraid of buying a car that feels good for the first couple of months before the clutch fails like a year into ownership thanks to previous owner abuse.

4) I’m seeing a surprising amount of price variation—A lot of that is obviously trim package/autobahn vs plaid/etc but it’s weird to see 2018s with <50k on the odometer priced at $19k and 2019s with similar mileage going for $32k with a couple of weirdo outliers (2017 80k miles, wants $23 grand). Is that just the market being itself during a particularly churny time or is there something else I’m missing here?

5) are y’all happy with your GTIs? How have they been holding up long-term? My family have kind of a history of being “Honda+VW people” so I have many fond memories of electric gremlins, complaints about expensive repairs, and the like. I’ve always wanted a GTI, but I also want a car that I can count on putting 200k+ miles on without it turning into an expensive lemon.

Edit: I meant Performance Pack*

1. I'd probably start with the MK7 (2015-2021) models. There's a lot of mixed feelings regarding the sunroof. I didn't have issues with it on my Golf, but when I upgraded recently to a GTI, I opted for the base model, the S, to avoid it. I'd steer you toward the base model in general, as it's got all the important bits and fewer of the "features". I also really like the Clark Plaid seats, and I think in the US it's the only model where you get them. There's also the matter of the way a GTI is stereotypically driven. I'd approach used cars cautiously and definitely take any you are seriously considering to a mechanic familiar with Volkswagen prior to purchasing (or as early as possible in the return period in the case of Carvana and the like). Last but not least, I'd look for regular maintenance records. This site can provide the maintenance schedules: https://maintenance.vw.com/#/search

2. The Performance Pack started coming standard in 2019. The easy tell is to look for the GTI logo on the front brake calipers for any year prior to that in the MK7 generation (2015-2021 in the US). It adds some nice bits, but it's OK to get one without it too.

3. I'd first just take it out for a test drive and see if it shifts smoothly through all the gears. Then I'd pay attention for any sort of burning smell and seeing whether or not RPMs track with travel speed, especially in higher gears. There are some other tests you can do and things to look for which are outlined pretty well here: https://www.wikihow.com/Diagnose-a-Slipping-Clutch-in-Your-Car

4. The car marketplace is pretty messed up right now. You can expect to pay more than you would have a year ago new or used and to have little negotiating room too. You're probably seeing some variance due to trim levels (it goes S < SE < Autobahn), and probably some based on whether or not they are Certified Pre-Owned or not too.

5. My stint with my MK7 Golf didn't go great, but I worked with VW and they offered a pretty good discount on the GTI. So far so good, but it hasn't been all that long. It's definitely a step up from the Golf in power and handling, and I hope it works out to be a long haul car for me too. Before you commit, I'd get comfortable with the fact that it likely will be a more expensive car in all aspects (purchase price, maintenance, et cetera). It certainly has been well liked throughout the years though, and that can go a long way in putting up with the (real or perceived) pitfalls of the brand.

There's a car buying thread too, which can offer more general advice and suggestions on alternatives if you're not finding the one: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3213538

nitsuga fucked around with this message at 18:16 on Jun 9, 2021

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

It’s a nice feature. It’s probably even more helpful in New England than it is out here in the Midwest. I’ll take some coddling personally.

I too would be wary of a car that rocked it catless for a while, but it’s entirely up to you what you’re comfortable with.

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nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

Ok Comboomer posted:

Is 80k miles too many miles for ~$20 grand (2017 SE)?

I’m seeing cars in the 50-70k range for $22-24k and I’m asking myself if the 15-20% difference is worth 30k miles.

80k is very close to 100k and it’s kinda wigging me out, but I’m not going to stretch my budget past, say $25k (which is where a lot of the <50k cars are) just for lower miles if the car is otherwise healthy.

That seems to be about the going rate in the market conditions we're in currently (which aren't great). I don't think the mileage should be too much cause for concern if the car has been maintained and otherwise taken care of. An inspection is always a good idea. I'd open your search up to Carvana, Shift, and the like if you haven't already too. I don't see anything jumping out at me right now, but new stuff gets put up every day.

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