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Opensourcepirate posted:Excuse my ignorance, but what does an RF module do? It's probably the RKE module; listen for 315 or 433MHz communication from keyfobs, authenticate against the codes stored in memory, and then do things based on that data (unlock, lock, panic, remote start, etc). He could drop a uC on the K-Line or LIN-bus connected to the antenna or ECU and snoop data to do interesting things when certain signals are received.
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Sep 14, 2010 17:45
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Exitlights posted:This is basically all speculation though, any outside knowledge here would be very welcome. Since it sounds like you've got some knowledge of what's going on with this RF module I found: if I snapped a picture of the diagram on it explaining what pin goes to what, do you think you could decipher it? 1998, eh? Probably not a CAN-connected module then. Yeah, if you snap some pics of the wiring connector and the PCB, I should be able to figure out a good deal of it. I think your hypothesis is fairly accurate though; it is either using relays to directly switch on/off stuff, or connected via a simple serial bus to the module that controls the door locks and such.
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Sep 15, 2010 05:48
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Ugh...my loving sunroof is creaking, AGAIN. 2006 A4 2.0T, CPO (yay!), 47k miles. I had brought it in earlier because of rattling noises everywhere (some from the IP, some from the sunroof, some from the seats). The sunroof was worse earlier (you could hear metal clanging) and they ended up replacing some parts up there. Apparently, I guess there's a bulletin of some sort (or this is a frequent problem) about creaking sunroofs due to the seals/lack of lubrication. But...the creaking is back now, and it's very temperature dependent apparently. The last time I took it down to the dealer, they told me I'd be paying out the rear end for them to crawl around and find the rattles, but they'd more than willing to fix stuff gratis if I can narrow down a broken part. Took the tech on a test drive with me, pointed out the noises and such, but still the same answer, I've got to narrow it down for them to do anything (i.e., "look, I push down here, noise gone, I let go, noise back"!). Any tips on narrowing down the sunroof rattle/IP rattle, without voiding warranty? e: I was very unclear. When driving around normally, sunroof closed, you can hear the sunroof glass creaking as I drive over slight bumps and such.
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Sep 19, 2010 23:36
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my1999gsr posted:The warranty administrator at your dealership isn't doing his or her job correctly if they can't get the diagnostic time covered. It's the job of the technician to find the source of the complaint, order the part and replace it and it's certainly not up to you as the customer to figure that out for them. If it takes hours of digging around to find the causal part, it's not your fault and you certainly shouldn't have to pay for that, ESPECIALLY considering that your A4 has already been in and had a sunroof rattle "repaired" previously. Stick to your guns with the service department - emphasize that there is still a noise coming from the sunroof even though they told you it was repaired. If they still won't help you, call the VW/Audi customer service number and tell them what's going on. Gotcha; as soon as I get some time on my hands, I'll be a bit more insistent on getting my problems fixed. It's CPO dammit, they should fix broken things (within reason)! I think they won't have a problem looking at the sunroof again, but a lot of the rattles have disappeared now that the weather is colder 
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Sep 21, 2010 17:43
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Exitlights posted:The PIC with the letters CAN on it alarms me, since it'll be a lot harder to handle all the various things in my car if they're CAN things, I think, but the car seems too old and rudimentary in its electronic poo poo. For example, I accidentally hotwired the thing while probing around the pins on the power connector. What is the part # of the PIC? I can't quite read it under the silver line on it, but looks like a PIC18. That bottom line is more likely manufacturing/package/date code markings than an actual indication of functionality. All the information about a Microchip part can usually be derived from the first line alone. That '-X' I can read on the package usually indicates extended temperature operation, which is something you would expect in an automotive part. The rest of the suffix likely indicates packaging information. Also, based on the picture of the cover of the module, I see no signals that would likely be CAN. The 'H' and 'L' (CAN High, CAN Low) would be the only possibilities, but the size of those connectors make them seem like power or similar. The pins labeled with numbers are probably reserved/don't do much/grounds, perhaps. Those numbers could be the pin # they plug into on the other end of the connector? Use the multimeter to find which pins are power/ground real quick, to get rid of possibilities. Once you give me the part # of the PIC, we can see what module pins hit what pins on the PIC, and see what we're dealing with. movax fucked around with this message at 20:39 on Sep 27, 2010 |
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Sep 27, 2010 20:36
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You'll never guess what I discovered today! Wiper blades for a 2006 A4 are expensive!  Autozone told me $88 for a set. I bought some off eBay for $48. 
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Jan 9, 2011 19:39
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my1999gsr posted:Nope, those are wiper blade prices. I may have hosed up then? I just called them blades because that's what I'm used to purchasing (go to store, buy two Rain-X blades, replace). What are the inserts (http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts...eek+Google+Base) then, replacing the actual rubber element on the blade?
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Jan 11, 2011 18:23
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Dumb question: my A4 actually got itself stuck in snow the other day, ended up needing some friends to help push me out (embarrassing AWD failure  ).For future reference, will ESP fight against me (or for me?) when I'm attempting to haul myself out of thick snow? Part of me thinks I should disable it, because with it enabled, it keeps pumping brakes desperately, thinking I'm about to slide off the freeway and die or something.
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Feb 7, 2011 03:50
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Kylie Sven Opossum posted:If you got stuck in the snow with a quattro equipped car it was 100% your fault. Yes, I drove myself into the lot, but it was ~3" of snow on top of gravel. I was expecting all of my wheels to happily cut through powdered snow and gain traction on gravel. I have all-seasons with a decent about tread life left, so I guess snow was just super-packed, or I was on a sheet of ice? quote:ESP will also modulate the ABS on the slipping wheels, faking an LSD. So leave it on when trying to escape a snowy prison?
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Feb 7, 2011 17:10
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Kylie Sven Opossum posted:Ok, if there was ice under there I'll let it slide (no pun intended) this time. Yeah, I'm going to spend some time after work today sliding around some more. I've only been through MI winter 2010 so far with this particular vehicle, where the only trouble I could get into was shutting off ESP and doing donuts/slides in empty parking lots
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Feb 7, 2011 17:26
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'06 A4 off to dealer for 55k service. CEL just came on, hope it isn't anything awful/expensive  Brakes were squealing, how much would I be paying for a dealer brake job? (I think the rotors on their last legs unfortunately, can't resurface again) Loaner is a '07, that body style just looks so much sleeker than the '06s, makes me sad
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Feb 17, 2011 17:23
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my1999gsr posted:Depending on which brakes you need (front or rear) I would think your parts cost would be $200-$300ish with 1.2-1.6 hours of labor. That's a rough guess - I haven't priced out brake parts in a while. If your local shop is ok with it, you could source out the rotors yourself - a decent set of slugs from Partsource/Pepboys/wherever would likely save you some cash. I tend to recommend OEM pads though - the fitment is usually superior to the white box stuff. Got a call back earlier today; brakes are apparently fine, CEL was "turbo valve" (I assume that's the DV making GBS threads itself) rest of the 55k mile service done. Hooray for warranty repairs, $500 overall. Turns out my loaner is a 2011 A4...big fan of the exterior, but not so much interior. I actually prefer my '06s plain old LCD radio versus the fancy, bright-rear end MMI interface. Guess 2011 gained a 7-speed though!
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Feb 18, 2011 03:19
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Got vehicle back, all shiny and serviced. They replaced my DV with a 06H-145-710-D; isn't there a G revision of this part out? The valve has its own 1yr/12k mile warranty, so I won't have to pay a deductible again if this one shits itself, but just curious to see if this is the reinforced type DV.
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Feb 18, 2011 23:46
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timb posted:D is the better, higher quality version from what I understand. Yeah, I just googled, turns out D is the one to have; G has a rubber diaphragm. e: I wonder what I had before. Probably a G, since it's a 2006 model.
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Feb 18, 2011 23:49
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temujen posted:Thanks, will definitely try my best to get a bit more shaved off. How's the mileage on your vehicle? I paid $65 earlier to day to fill up the family Pathfinder with regular, I'm starting to factor that more into the decision of what car to consider. City mileage in my 06 A4 (2.0T stock) is atrocious; I get maybe ~330 miles to the tank. When I was doing 100 miles/day commuting though, tank was easily lasting upwards of 485 miles. Furthest I ever pushed it was ~500 miles, with '--- mi' remaining on the console. So, city mileage = poo poo, highway mileage, you should be >=30mpg.
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Mar 5, 2011 22:09
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temujen posted:That's atrocious? Sounds like you get low 20's in the city. I suppose the fact that there's such a wide variance makes low 20's mpg feel lovely. Yeah, sorry, low 20s is bad for me; I've always only driven small compacts, this is my first vehicle with a turbo (which is what is owning my city mileage).
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Mar 6, 2011 22:15
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FrankeeFrankFrank posted:So I'll have to re-program it after replacing the battery? No, that procedure is for a brand new, unlearned key I believe. Your key isn't unlearned, the battery has just run down. Simply replace the battery...and then it still won't work. You need to start the car with the key and allow the RKE system to get the rolling code back in sync, and then RKE will work again. There are two wireless subsystems in keys, LF @ 125kHz used for Immobilizer/similar authentication (and passive entry/passive start), and RF @ 315MHz or 433MHz, used to open your vehicle from across the parking lot. I just had to do this for the keys for my A4; that fob has a red LED that blinks when it transmits. After replacing battery, it blinked but wouldn't do anything. After starting the car with the fob and driving home, RKE was working fine (it's done re-syncing within 30 seconds usually, so it'll be set by the time you get to your destination). Fun tip I learned from a co-worker back there: kids can get really bored and literally push keyfob buttons enough times (thousands) to knock them out of sync with the vehicles. Kids!  e: Looking at that picture, it's probably a latch, or you just have to slide off that plastic panel on the back with your thumb. Should be pretty simple and toolless. My A4 fob, I just had to use a soft screwdriver to pop off the back of the key. Battery is probably a CR2032 or similar.
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May 5, 2011 17:41
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Is there a TSB out or known issue with the sunroof on 2006-era A4s (so B6 I think)? When shut, and when its warm out, the loving thing creaks as I drive around. I took it in once for this and they replaced some type of "rail" part, but it clearly isn't fixed.
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Aug 19, 2011 19:22
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my1999gsr posted:There's a TSB for sunroof squeaks on A4/Avant. Application of a special rubber lubricant to seals is supposed to solve the problem. Cool, thanks, I'm going to take it in to the local dealer then and have them look at it again!
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Aug 27, 2011 20:20
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Ideally, one would think both factories should be using the same parts delivered to their door via whatever transport method. Barring that, each local source would go through some qualification process and then be approved for usage.  My A4 came from Germany, and it still suffers from irritating little problems, clearly those German factory workers don't know what they're doing! e: what's with the coolant threads, I don't get it 
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Oct 12, 2011 07:23
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my1999gsr posted:Off to Cuba for a week! Hopefully I'll spot some unusual VAG  have fun!
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Oct 13, 2011 19:41
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mrbucket posted:So, pictured is the pigtail off the main engine loom that attaches to the front airbag sensor - 2010 Jetta TDI. A single shoddy wiring harness repair will multiply into many, many problems down the road. It just isn't worth the risk to the insurance company to try and have that fixed; easier for them to cut you a check. $4k end-user cost for an OEM harness sounds about right though.
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Oct 20, 2011 07:29
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Zorak of Michigan posted:Idle bitching post: On Wed morning, my S4 (the one I bought new on 11/4, still under 1500 miles) wouldn't start. By Thursday I could drive it for an hour, park it and leave it on a 2A trickle charger for six hours, and it still wouldn't start. This seems like a fairly obvious case of bad battery for me, but my dealer insisted on charging the battery and then analyzing it. Irritating result: over Thanksgiving, instead of oohing and aaahing over my new S4, my family got to be puzzled by my loaner Passat. My nephews, who rely on their uncle to show them the ways of driving too fast, were quite disappointed. I guess I shouldn't be too pissed at the dealer, since they did give me a loaner, but in six years my WRX never missed a beat, so it's pretty irritating that the S4 didn't make it three weeks. That's sloppy as hell, sorry to hear that. Which dealer did you get it from, Rochester Hills or Ann Arbor? (Assuming that you are in still in Michigan)
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Nov 27, 2011 09:12
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I think my battery is starting to poo poo the bed, actually; sometimes, the starter will crank really hard/unusually long, and it'll take a good 10 seconds for interior lights and electronics to come up and running. (Car starts, but only the IP is lit up, all the other lights/devices take time to start up) The voltage must really be sagging, I should really get this taken care of before I get stuck somewhere.
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Dec 8, 2011 17:07
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el topo posted:Better make the appointment now to get that fixed. When my car began to start hesitantly it was about 2 weeks until the battery gave up the ghost altogether... fortunately I was at the dealership at the time =/ My vehicle is still CPO, would battery be covered under that? Or is it a wear item and I should just replace it myself/find a place to replace it? I figured it'd be nice to have a dealer test the battery as well to make sure it isn't some other hardware in my car that's flaking out.
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Dec 9, 2011 17:05
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meatpimp posted:Usually battery / brakes / rubber items (including belts) are specifically excluded from CPO. Makes sense. My brakes are starting to squeal too, so now I guess the question is, I don't know of a reliable 3rd-party shop around here that handles German vehicles (Ann Arbor, MI area), so am I stuck going to the dealer then? Figure I'll get it all taken care of in one fell swoop.
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Dec 9, 2011 23:54
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Zorak of Michigan posted:ArborMotion does a lot of work on German cars. Every time I go there, the place is about 90% 911s. That many rich wankers are probably all wrong about something, but hopefully it isn't car care. Thanks, I'll give them a call to see what they charge! real_scud posted:Somehow I doubt it because by pitching a fit I don't mean I cursed anyone out or anything like that. I just told her I thought it a bit odd that a car that I had just purchased had a battery go bad mere days after taking ownership of it and that I was hoping the battery could be replaced for free. This is really  to me, if a battery literally goes dead days after you drive the car off the lot, I'd expect a basic level of customer service from the dealer to fix that sucker for free, CPO or not-CPO.
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Dec 12, 2011 15:49
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So, dealer quoted $220 for new battery + installation + resetting all codes (radio, etc), argh. Service guy stated that CPO warranty only covers the battery for 1yr/12,000 miles and it's been 2 years/33k miles since I got it so that makes sense, I suppose. Were a lot of those replacements you did my1999gsr within that timeframe? I hate myself even more for sitting in on the design meetings where we're like "yeah, just make the customer come back to dealer in event of power-loss" and thinking that was a good loving idea.  I'd love to do this myself, but it's the middle of the week, I'm not sure I was given the radio anti-theft code when I bought the car, and I'm not sure what other modules need configuration after a full power-less. Not to mention need to figure out what battery it takes and doing it in the parking lot of my apartment complex in the winter would be uncomfortable and frowned upon. movax fucked around with this message at 19:16 on Dec 13, 2011 |
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Dec 13, 2011 19:13
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Pulled some coupons out of my rear end and used some $50 Audi service card I got, so it was "only" $160 to have the dealer put in a new OEM battery for me and clear all the codes. The Audi system had 0 record of the battery ever being replaced before and the service guy said with its condition, it looked like the original battery, so I guess 6 years and 64k miles isn't a bad run. Didn't stop me from buying a portable jump-starter as a knee-jerk reaction though. Never again! I've also been entertaining the idea of getting a VAG-COM cable to play around with stuff...$350 is a good chunk of change though, any opinions on it?
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Dec 15, 2011 17:24
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Blakkout posted:How much are these? I didn't even know this was a thing. I think I want one. I got this giant Clore unit (extreme overkill) for $125 shipped w/ Amazon Prime, but they make smaller ones as well, in like the $70 range too. One of my buddies has a Walmart "all-in-one" compressor, light, kitchen sink unit and it sucks. I think a lot of the negative reviews may be user error as well 
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Dec 15, 2011 18:43
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MustardFacial posted:Get one of these and then download VCDS. That's much better. Thought VCDS was only sold with the cable though (cable acts as HW dongle), or do I need VCDS-Lite? Or did I miss a very subtle suggestion in your post?
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Dec 15, 2011 21:23
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my1999gsr posted:VAG-COM is really, really helpful if you don't have access to factory scan tools. I've been considering buying the software and cable and I DO have access to the VAG equipment. Yeah, the last versions of all the VAG factory software I have is back from 2009 or so, when I was in that industry, but I don't even have a decent CAN dongle anymore (was using CANCard X/XLs). I think I might pick this up for Christmas and go nuts with it...and perhaps loan it out to some goons in exchange for regional beer or something too.  My CEL came on the day after I got back from the dealer, stayed for 2 days, and then disappeared before I had a chance to swing into AutoZone and pull codes. Are the DTCs still logged, or did the fault condition resolve itself and reset DTCs?
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Dec 19, 2011 16:31
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Mr. Despair posted:I don't think the DTCs reset. At least this summer when I pulled some codes after the CEL turned off on it's own they were still there. Ahh, VCDS-Lite is free. I think that and the $35 cable that got linked will be a much better start than jumping to the $350 cable + VCDS immediately; have you found anything you've been unable to do with that setup Mr. Despair?
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Dec 19, 2011 19:15
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Mr. Despair posted:I can't remember the features it locks out off the top of my head, but I know I've used it to pull and clear codes, and do things like pulling real time rpm and sensor data. Right now I just want the ability to pull codes (for later Googling/calling the dealer/posting here) and to poke at a few modules (setting my windows to auto roll-down after holding unlock on the fob comes to mind).
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Dec 19, 2011 19:53
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Just installed a USASpec PA11-VW6 adapter for my iPod in my 2006 A4; went pretty well once I got the hang of using the radio removal keys. To be perfectly honest though...my ears couldn't immediately detect a night and day difference between my old casette adapter and the direct connection, but it was a relatively cheap gadget to install. I'm looking at picking up a ProClip mount for my 4S now, but they're pretty pricey from ProClip; looking for cheaper alternatives/clones right now. I also got an Escort 9500ix, and a DirectWire kit for it...any suggestions on a handy switched 12V line to splice into? Surprised at the amount of devices in the car that will operate without keys in the ignition (cig ports, radio, etc).
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Dec 24, 2011 02:29
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timb posted:Buy the ProClip. I've had one for a year in my GTI and let me say, it's a quality built product. The actual cradle is covered in a felt like material so it doesn't scratch the phone. Hmm, that sways me back towards paying the super-premium for the ProClip (still haven't decided if I want to get the device holder that has the pass-through connector or not). I found this one on Amazon, which seems to be regarded pretty highly as well.
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Dec 24, 2011 06:17
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Snowdens Secret posted:And which years of the DSG get the 10/100k warranty? I don't recall getting a letter for my '07 A3. Speaking of letters, just got two in the mail for common issues for my A4. PCV and cam follower were the two big ones that got extended to 10/100k which was nice  Those two issues seem to always be mentioned immediately on any of the Audi forums, so good to know the dealer will take care of those.
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Jan 4, 2012 07:49
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Q7 loaner, I feel like such a soccer mom  Was hoping for a newer A4 to see what 5-6 years has done for the model.
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Jan 9, 2012 17:07
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Tab8715 posted:Are VWs considered reliable? I just need a cheap car, and this happens to be in the area. Oh man, this question is like blood spilled into shark-infested waters... I think you can do better for reliability than a $5k 120k mile Passat, but it depends on the service history of that vehicle. Perhaps it has made it to 120k with no major issues and will be one of those VWs that lasts until your kid puts it into a tree on prom night.
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Jan 16, 2012 16:30
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wntd posted:Anyway, tonight, the 'Check light' indicator lit up, and the display read 'Check right headlight'. There was noticeable flickering of the headlight, but when I pulled over and checked it it had stopped. Restarting the engine cleared the error, but there were a couple more flickers (and a kind of high pitched sound, like a nearby car horn) before I got it home. Sounds like a loose harness connector somewhere, definitely keep taking that thing back until you get it back the way you want it. That high pitched sound is a bit worrying...alternator squealing for some reason?
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Jan 24, 2012 06:10
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