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Anybody here familiar with the 7A? I've tried asking things on some of the 'old audi' forums, but the sites catering to 5cyl havers are either too slow and I get no responses, or they are full of crazy fucks making 700HP monsters who don't have time for my boring non turbo thing. Car: 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20V with billions of miles The problem I'm having is mainly when I first start the car when cold. It sounds a bit off, and runs crappy. On especially cold mornings it will die if I don't give it a bit of gas. This crappy running and trying to die phase lasts until the first time I exceed about 2500 RPM, which I usually do when pulling away before shifting into second, mainly just to get the engine to be happier. After I exceed 2500 ish, the problem goes away almost entirely. I've also noticed that occasionally when coming to a stop after a long time of being in gear at constant-ish speed , upon taking the car out of gear, the RPMs drop a bit below where it should idle (idles a hair below 1000, the drop is usually to 650ish), the car shakes a small bit, then it saves itself and will happily idle regularly until I spend considerable time at a constant RPM again. Things I have done: Ran a can of seafoam through the gas tank Checked plugs and plug wires. Everything looks kosher Taken apart/cleaned the intake system up to the manifold. Was kinda nasty bit now its awesome Blasted all the filth out of the ISV Cleaned the MAF Changed the air filter Disconnected every electrical connecter I could reach and blasted them with electrical connector cleaner What should I look for next?
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Oct 9, 2012 03:45
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I'm likely asking for some advice in an area which probably nobody has any expertise, but here goes anyway. I have a 2000 C5 Audi A6 (2.7T qm if that matters) that is leaking a non-trivial amount of water to the inside. I live in Washington, so water intrusion is a constant problem. The main problem is, I look online and everybody tells me to check for water dribbling down into the front passenger foot well, which originates from either the drainage tray under the battery in the cowl or from clogged sunroof drains. I had this problem, cleaned out my sunroof drains and checked under the battery: that problem went away, but another remains. Now, my leak is into the rear passenger footwell, coming directly out of the vent which directs air to the rear passenger's feet. This leak has been "impressive", as I currently have literally standing water above the carpet. I sop it up every time I drive, but there has to be a reason and a solution to this flood. I am not loosing any coolant, which was my first thought, and the Bentley manual does not provide much insight into why the leak would be coming through the rear passenger foot vent, only suggestions to clean out the sunroof drains which I already have. The only other symptom I have is that both the driver's and passenger's front seatbelts are slightly damp after a heavy rain. I'm thinking since the seatbelts are held in the B pillar, directly below which on the inside are the foot vents, maybe they are connected?? On a nice day, I've sat inside which a roommate douses the car with a hose, and nothing seems to happen, so I'm at a complete loss.
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Nov 27, 2014 07:02
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Thumposaurus posted:
Does the window do anything funky like go halfway up then down again? I know the scissor style window regulators that older VWs had could get bound up and skip some teeth on the window motor to regulator gearset which would cause strange things like that, but I thought they all had slider and cable style regulators now I had a thing where one of the windows would only go halfway down and auto up/down wouldn't work at all, something about the window forgetting how far up and down it can go. Making the computer or whatever re-learn how to do windows worked for me. Try this: All windows up Disconnect the battery for a few minutes Connect battery, get in car, ignition on With each window individually, roll all the way down, wait a second, roll all the way up. Repeat with each window (and sunroof if you have it)
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Dec 3, 2014 22:22
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Alabamarama posted:Apologies if this has been covered before, but I am interested to know what it would be like living with a 95 audi s6 avant. I don't have first-hand experience with an S6 of that generation, but I did own both a C4 A6, which is identical aside from the engine, and a 90 20V, which shares the same transmission and basic engine minus a turbo (I know the 3B and 7A have innumerable differences aside from the turbo, but they share basic architecture, accessories, and typically suffer from similar problems). The A6 only had a couple problem areas in regards to the body/electrical, chief of which was the ignition switch which apparently is very susceptible to failure due to heavy keys. Pay attention to the keys which the previous owner uses, if they have a million things on the keyring, an ignition switch or entire key interlock replacement is likely in your future. This involves removing the majority of the dash on the driver's side and part of the steering column if the interlock is involved. Nothing too complicated, but unless you are careful, you will break some clips and introduce some new rattles. Either a day full of swearing at your interior trying to find THAT LAST loving SCREW HOW THE HELL IS THIS HELD IN STILL or throwing 600 dollars at somebody to do it. Aside from that, the only common failures are the stock CD changer which loves to jam, little lights in the gauges going out, especially the three little gauges off to the right, and other little minor stuff which is typical of old cars in general. Suspension components are cheap if you go stock or aftermarket OEM replacement, but performance oriented stuff is harder to find and expensive. Some luck can be had with German Ebay, but I typically don't trust ebay to begin with, let alone with a layer of misunderstanding due to language barriers on top of that, so I can't speak for the efficacy of that. 2Bennett is well respected but megabux, 034 makes some good stuff and is much more reasonable priced. ECS tuning is always a good standby. The shift lever is an incredible easy upgrade, and I highly recommend it. The stock shift bushing tends to fall apart, new unit made me like my car shift like new. As for the engine, the cooling system in the 90 was a huge failure point, but shouldn't be as much of an issue in the larger bodied S6, more room for cooling in the engine bay. The stock fuel injectors are pure crap, and can be replaced for relatively cheap with a 034 kit, or spend as much as you want on bigger units if you plan to add power later. There is a huge amount of information out there for these engines, like was said before mainly on quattroworld and audizine and audiworld, the trick is finding what applies to you. On some of those boards, the technical discussion is dominated by guys shooting for the stars in terms of horsepower, a little harder to find information if you are trying to be more reasonable. An upgraded fuel pump and replaced fuel filter are recommended, as even on my non turbo those seemed to help the performance, apparently same case on the 3B engine, as the fuel pump is rated for only a small bit of overhead at stock power levels. That engine is also very picky about what kind of spark plugs are used, apparently. If you have any experience with other 90s-early 00s VAG stuff, many things will be familiar to you. The C4 is a very solid, if not somewhat hefty platform. The engine makes a decent amount of sense and is fairly easy to work on, especially due to the extra room in your engine bay, and the body and suspension is relatively simple, as VAG had just debuted the B5 platform and its clusterfuck of control arms and over complication, and none of that bled over to the older C4 cars DO IT intheflesh fucked around with this message at 18:57 on Apr 14, 2015 |
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Apr 14, 2015 18:55
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KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:I have a 2002 Audi A6. The rear passenger side footwell is filling with water. I had the sunroof drains cleared and that didn't fix the problem. I don't think its the battery drain either. Please help. I had this same issue a few months back, same car, went through the same measures that didn't work. The problem ended up being the plastic tray that houses the cabin air filter on the passenger side up under the battery tray area. The air filter holder should be completely sealed all the way around the bottom because it is right next to the path water takes when running off of the windshield on the passenger side. Remove the three screws that hold that thing in place, likely breaking the rearmost one because it is at a stupid angle. Remove the probably waterlogged foam seal thing on the underside and clean where it mounts up to the car. You could either try to find a similar material to replace the old seal, or do like I did and just coat the poo poo out of it with as much silicon sealant or caulking as you can possibly throw at it. There is also a foam seal on the inside next to the flaps for the HVAC thing, you can replace that seal as well or do like I did and shove a fan in there and dry it out. I also dried out the rear passenger footwell in a similar ghetto fashion. I cut a line in the carpet because I didn't want to remove the entire interior. The cleaner the cut, the less noticeable it will be. After cutting it, pulled the carpet up and propped the flap open and had a box fan blasting it for a couple days. The carpet has actually quite a lot of padding material, so it can hold a deceptive amount of water. Good luck to you
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May 23, 2015 20:34
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Warbird posted:Hey folks, just picked up a new Q5 for Mrs. burd now that we have the kiddo to haul around. Does anyone have a god quality pad or seat cover to keep the leather in good shape with the car seat? We’ll also be hauling the dog around at some point so that’s going to have to be a consideration as well. What engine is in the Q? Oil changes are super easy on this platform in my opinion, and unless you've lowered it, you don't have to jack up the car to get to the drain plug.
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Aug 30, 2021 17:48
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FAT32 SHAMER posted:Does anyone have any experience with rear facing convertible seats in a q5/sq5? I’m looking at getting an SQ5 soon, but if it’s going to be really tight for the front passenger, then I’ll probably need something bigger What gen you looking at? I have a B8 Q5 and my bulky rear end rear facing carseat fits fine. Kid loves pano roof. Wife and I are both short, but I'd say passenger up to 6' or something would still be comfortable. B9 Q5 allegedly has an extra half inch of rear legroom, but it feels slightly smaller than the B8 so YMMV If you go B8, the move is to get the Q5 with the 3.0T and throw a tune at it to get all the performance of the SQ while coming in loads cheaper
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Mar 30, 2022 17:51
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Hell Yeah Anybody have experience with carbon cleaning on the Supercharged 3.0t? I got the Q5 done, it has ~85k miles. Engine is noticeably perkier, but I lost about 1mpg avg. Am I just making coincidence into causation? Maybe this is just winter gas mix or something? Or Maybe I'm just driving like more of an rear end Also to anybody with the 3.0t, the 034 intake is VERY COOL AND GOOD to just to make your car go FWEEEEEEEE all the time. Makes me think I'm still a little bit more edgy boy racer and a little less boring soccer dad
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Nov 15, 2022 23:57
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MrOnBicycle posted:Man I just test drove a C5 wagon 2.7T A6 and man I really loved it. On paper it's really a great car for us on paper. Shame that the car I test drove turned out to have no service history since 2008, worn interior, CV knocking, crack in the windscreen and a semi-borked nav unit... oh and seemed very oily underneath. With a heavy heart I walked away only to find that the only other C5 wagon for sale is an S6 4.2L. The fuel economy on those though, oof when gas is about $2 per litre. Seems very well cared for and in great shape despite the many previous owners. I know this post was a while ago, but I owned a C5 2.7TT for about 9 years from 130k to 220k, and it was by far the most reliable VAG car I've ever owned. In that time, I replaced the control arms twice, which is an expensive thing but if you DIY it can be done for less than $1000. I have an absurdly low tolerance for anything wonky in my suspension so your threshold might be different. I also developed a misfire when ended up being the Ignition Control Module, ~$250 found it used, two bolts on the top of the airbox 10 minute job. I did the timing/headgasket/tensoners job which was ~1500 in parts, would have been a ~3000 job if done at a shop. Never did the car leave me stranded. I don't know how the market is where you live, but here in the US the C5 platform is already deep into the "one weird guy at the end of the block owns 15 of them" status. Most of them have passed through normal hands and now those that survived and in enthusiast hands. If you can find a decent one from one of these enthusiasts you'll likely be in good shape. The issues with these motors are well known and the fixes are actually relatively easy. The C5 Audis and E39 BMWs are both truly excellent family hauler platforms. I agree that a lot of them are thrashed from 25 year olds thinking they can afford a cool executive fast wagon they grew up seeing until they have to pay to keep it running, but I think these cars are now old enough to be kind of falling out of that "the best worst idea" category of enthusiast car. One last point about your NAV issue: just assume every nav system of this era is going to be bad. We used to have a list at our dealership of NAV DOESNT WORK, and basically everything before 2010 is on that list.
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Mar 6, 2023 20:42
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Deviant posted:i paid off my 2016 golf R this week. I'll take "calling oil consumption of 2qt/1000miles within accepted values" for $400 jokes aside, those are great cars. I had a 15 A3 2.0t quattro with a tune which is effectively the same car as yours but with a trunk instead of hatch and had absolutely zero problems over my ownership
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Aug 18, 2023 17:36
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