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wav3form posted:I'd say the touareg counts... not like the VR6 design is that different between the variations. Thanks for your comments; much appreciated! Ah, but on the Touareg I have to drop the engine and tranny out of the chassis and then pull the trans and engine apart to get at the chains and tensioners - not the most fun I've ever had, I assure you.
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# ¿ May 4, 2010 01:36 |
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# ¿ Mar 29, 2024 09:34 |
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DONT DO IT posted:No CELs, though the last time I VAG'd it I think I got "signal to warm up catalyst too low" or something similar (can't remember exactly, but it was a fault with the warm up catalyst). I told the local dealership this and got, "Well, it could be anything." Thanks, Audi. That code you got was most likely for 02 sensor/catalyst heater circuit too low or something similar - the 02 sensor has a pre-heater in it and they fail from time to time. Unless it's different in the US (where I'm assuming you're from) then you should have been called in for a coil inspection and replacement if required at no cost to you. Call your dealership with your VIN and see if you qualify. If you can get me the part numbers off all 6 of your coils (the part number is a 9 digit, alpha numeric that's on each coil where the plug connects to it) I can check to see if they qualify for replacement but a call to the dealer is probably easier. Here's a link: http://www.audicoils.com/ On to your problem - I'm still stumped. I wonder what your rail fuel pressure is. Another useful check is to get your car e-tested to see what kind of tailpipe emissions you've got - that will go a long way to diagnosing the problem. When the weather was still colder, were you able to get good heat from the climate control or was it weaker/cooler than it had been previously? my1999gsr fucked around with this message at 01:50 on May 4, 2010 |
# ¿ May 4, 2010 01:47 |
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Opensourcepirate posted:I'd like some instructions. There's no rush though as I won't be getting around to it this week. Actually this does help. When the regulator assembly is going/gone it will never fix itself. Does the master window switch on the driver's side operate the passenger window or does it not work the same as the passenger door window switch?
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# ¿ May 4, 2010 17:26 |
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Autism Sundae posted:Well, the RVU that I read about is for supposed engine problem that could cause some serious damage, not sure what the details were but it was for early MKVI GTIs and I guess dealerships had to test all GTIs on their lots. Do you have any records of something like that? Sorry I'm not being more specific. I'd be interested in finding out about any available RVUs/TSBs that apply to my car, of course. Oh yes, a VAG scan tool (in the right hands) can be used to monitor any system in the vehicle in any condition - moving, running, stopped, idle, key on/engine off. It won't show when a fault is logged (you have to go to a different section in the tool) but if you know what you're looking for in the values you can see when something isn't working correctly. We've had the dual-mass flywheel go at less then 3000 kms and up believe it or not. It's certainly possible for the engine to have a vibration that's natural but the 2.0T is a pretty smooth, if a little loud (due to the FSI injectors) engine so it seems out of character. I don't see any RVUs or TSB's at this time for your car that would have any serious engine consequences but there may be one issued for US cars that I'm not able to see.
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# ¿ May 4, 2010 17:34 |
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Autism Sundae posted:Oh yeah, one more - what's the effect of ECU adapting? My car has a manual so shifts won't be any smoother, but I'm assuming other things are affected. Will ECU readjust if I change my driving habits? It can still alter valve timing, fuel trims - pretty much anything you'd be able to do during a dyno tune but in a smaller range. It'll only adapt so far before it hits a limit. To get past that, you need a chip.
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# ¿ May 4, 2010 17:35 |
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primitive posted:Do you see any big differences in the quality of the techs that work at VW and Audi dealerships? I'd gladly take my GTI for its scheduled maintenance (especially the DSG oil changeout) to an Audi dealership if I knew I would have a reduced chance of running into clowns The techs are usually skilled at the dealerships BUT the real difference is integrity when it comes to diagnosing and repairing vehicles - some guys just don't have any sense of what's right when it comes to repairs. I'm lucky - my shop's techs are all top-notch and there's never a question with their skills or integrity - we've all had to deal with the "crooked grease monkey" stigma in the trade so it's something we strive to erase.
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# ¿ May 4, 2010 17:39 |
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teh jhey posted:This is interesting. I've never watched boost during acceleration (at least not for the concern you have) but it seems funny that you'd drop boost - it's usually pretty linear. This might be worth a trip to the dealer - it doesn't sound like normal operation. It *might* have something to do with the chipping but that's an aspect of VW/Audi that I know very little about since our dealership doesn't do any chipping/modding other than strictly VAG parts. I love driving chipped turbo cars - if I owned a VW it would be the first thing I'd do. my1999gsr fucked around with this message at 23:37 on May 4, 2010 |
# ¿ May 4, 2010 23:33 |
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Autism Sundae posted:Oh yeah, hey my1999gsr have you heard anything about GTI/A3 water pumps failing? There's a thread here: http://golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4872&highlight=water+pump but I don't know if there's a TSB out for it. It would be nice to know which cars are affected. I haven't seen this problem yet and there's no applicable TSBs for it currently. That doesn't mean it isn't a problem though - just not one I'm familiar with yet.
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# ¿ May 4, 2010 23:39 |
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Late Hit posted:This I can help with. My water pump (on the 02 Quattro) had failed. I assume it wasn't changed with the cambelt when that was done at 48k, Made it do around 60k and impeller failed. Leading to overheating. I'm told that on the engine my car has, it's a relatively simple (<4hr) job to do the water pump and cambelt, compared to some. If you you've got an 02 with the 1.8T then yes, those pumps are all junk but if the poster is talking about the A3/GTI with the 2.0T then the failure rate hasn't been an issue as yet.
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# ¿ May 5, 2010 15:04 |
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my1999gsr posted:I'll check it out for you on Monday and get a part number. What country are you in? According to my parts dept your part number is N 104 457 01 - gas discharge bulb.
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# ¿ May 5, 2010 15:09 |
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A.C.A.M. posted:Thanks for this thread, my1999gsr. Sorry - we don't get the Polo in North America so I'm not famliiar with it specifically but I can offer a suggestion - bleed your clutch and/or change the clutch fluid. Given what's already been tried with your car I'd want to make sure the hydraulic system for the clutch was in good shape before going further.
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# ¿ May 6, 2010 01:46 |
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omgitstheinternet posted:I currently have a CEL due to my car not having a cat, I will be fixing this today, do I need to have the code cleared or will it automatically go away when all is well? You'll need to get it erased - after a couple of driving cycles with the same high authority fault it'll be saved and the MIL will stay on.
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# ¿ May 6, 2010 01:48 |
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Autism Sundae posted:Oh yeah, hey my1999gsr have you heard anything about GTI/A3 water pumps failing? There's a thread here: http://golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4872&highlight=water+pump but I don't know if there's a TSB out for it. It would be nice to know which cars are affected. So as luck would have it we got a GLI Jetta (with the 2.0T) today with a coolant leak. After we called Tech Line they suggested checking the water pump for leaks and sure enough the water pump was leaking at the bearing. From the way the Tech advisor jumped on a coolant leak being caused by a water pump in that engine leads me to believe that it's a well-known problem.
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# ¿ May 6, 2010 01:53 |
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Opensourcepirate posted:Edit: Actually went out to my car to verify things. Well, it sounds like the window motor is encountering excessive resistance when it tries to operate so it's thermal protection shuts it off. At this point I'd pull the inner door panel off, remove the window motor, plug it into the door harness and try to operate it. If it makes the click noise and the dome light dims but the motor doesn't run than I'd say your window motor is done. If it runs forward and reverse fine then I'd think your window regulator assembly is failing and jamming up. If the motor is bad then you'll need to replace it. Here's the catch - I think the window motor is also the control module for that door and it has to be coded correctly to the vehicle so if you go to the wrecker for a replacement it may or may not work. The driver's window motor is for sure the control module for that door but I can't remember if the passenger side module is a slave to it or if it exists on it's own.
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# ¿ May 6, 2010 02:11 |
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Blackdawgg posted:Do you know a lot about the DSG? I don't know if this is a problem or not but my DSG always seems to have the clutch engaged and wanting to creep forward. What year is you GTI?
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# ¿ May 6, 2010 02:15 |
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primitive posted:Will lowering springs cause premature suspension wear in my car? I have an early 2007 GTI, and the stock springs for that car make it look like a minivan. The switch to the lower ride height happened about a month after my car was produced. What I'm wondering is if I switch to springs that lower me to late-07 OEM equivalent, do I risk premature wear to any other parts of the suspension that might be tuned for the higher ride height? I'm not sure of the drop you'd get with the later version springs but it's a good rule of thumb to get the car aligned after you install any different suspension parts. It might still be within spec but you can get an alignment for $80ish and not have to worry about eating tires.
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# ¿ May 7, 2010 02:04 |
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heat posted:I bought a 94 jetta with a broken front spring, and I found a guy who put new struts on his mk3 and then promptly bent the frame in an accident, so I figured I would just buy the whole assembly from him. After building my own tool for the absolutely ridiculous front strut mounts (grinding down both sides of a 22mm socket so I can grab it with a crescent wrench while putting a hex key down through the middle to hold the post) and that not working, the only other thing the internet is telling me is that an impact wrench can pop those nuts right off without bothering with a hex key to stop the post from spinning. Is this accurate? I do it all the time actually and it works very well. Keep in mind that you also have to reinstall everything and the impact doesn't do that quite as well - it tends to spin the shaft of the strut.
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# ¿ May 7, 2010 02:06 |
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Blackdawgg posted:It is a 2007 Your problem isn't a familiar one to me but I'll ask around at the shop to see if anyone else has encountered it.
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# ¿ May 7, 2010 22:14 |
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Sepist posted:Red, it wasn't the temp sensor it must've been coolant low light, I popped the hood before work this morning and the reservoir was empty. I filled it back up but I really hope that's not a head gasket leak. It went from full resevoir to empty in 3 weeks. Coolant levels can gradually drop over time without any leaks so if you haven't had to top off the jug in a year or so you might just have been low. Keep a close eye on the coolant level for the next couple of hours of driving. If the coolant level drops enough for you to notice it or turn on the temp light then it's time to pressurize the coolant circuit and look for leaks.
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# ¿ May 8, 2010 15:59 |
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Rhusitaurion posted:I just recently got an 01.5 S4, and I've got a question about a noise it makes. It seems like once it warms up, it makes a rather noticeable roaring noise on acceleration and in motion, distinct from the engine, turbo, and road noises. It's most prominent in 1st gear, but seems like it's there in other gears too, though not very noticeable. It's also there when the car's cold, but much quieter. I'm wondering if this is a normal noise, or if not, what it might be (some kind of bearing somewhere?). That's tough to diagnose without actually hearing it. I'd like to say wheel bearing because the A4-series Audi bearings do have a shorter lifespan than I'd like. Are you getting the noise from the front, rear, left, right, during accel AND coasting, when turning left or right, going over bumps? A few more details might help me point you in the right direction.
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# ¿ May 8, 2010 16:04 |
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Rhusitaurion posted:I'm pretty sure it's not a wheel bearing, as I had it in a shop recently for what I thought was a wheel bearing, and it turned out that I was a moron and the wheels were bent and thus noisy. I replaced the wheels and that noise is gone. If you rev the engine in neutral is the noise there?
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# ¿ May 9, 2010 18:41 |
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bennyfactor posted:(quasi-cross-post from the 'piss you off' thread) Did you get the 2 #5's on the diagram? If I recall, those 2 screws will go upwards between the plastic of the bumper cover and the metal of the fender itself. There should be an indent/cutout in the fender-liner right where the fender and bumper meet so that you can access the screws. EDIT: Wait a sec.. Isn't your car a Passat? If it is, then there's 1 or 2 10mm nuts that you have to move the fender liner out of the way to see. With the fender liner out of the way, if you shine a light forward (toward the back of the turn signal lens in the bumper) you should see them. my1999gsr fucked around with this message at 01:04 on May 10, 2010 |
# ¿ May 10, 2010 00:57 |
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Autism Sundae posted:Can a VW owner take his car to an Audi dealership for warranty service or vice versa (Audi owner going to a VW dealer)? There are lots of non-VW shops that do warranty work. As long as the parts are correct and installed correctly it's usually covered.
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# ¿ May 11, 2010 02:46 |
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wolrah posted:Just for curiosity's sake, how willing are VAG and dealers to assist in pairing parts that can work together, but may not have shipped together in this market or anywhere? We occasionally get requests from customers for things like this. At the dealership level it's a rare event mainly because of the costs involved. Once we quote out the parts cost with the labor, most people back off. I'm the guy in the dealership that would volunteer for a job like that because it looks like fun (and I'm not flat rate) but it's just not something most dealerships would be into. We'll certainly order the parts for you (in most cases - sometimes we aren't even allowed to order non N. American parts) but after that, it's up to you.
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# ¿ May 11, 2010 02:53 |
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insta posted:Mk5 Jetta: Well, the stock radio in all the VW line (at least in N. America anyway) is a double DIN and it has a pile of room behind it too - I'd say 6" or more so it shouldn't interfere with an aftermarket radio in any way. I've seen a very similar unit to the one you're looking at installed in a newer A4 Audi which has about the same amount of space. Try Crutchfield.com and see what they say fits in your car.
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# ¿ May 12, 2010 01:50 |
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hayden. posted:I'm looking at buying my friend's 2002 Passat for about $3000. I've personally driven it about 5,000 miles over the past 4 years and it's not great, but it'd be cheap. It has 125,000 miles. That creak and tracking problem isn't likely a tie rod being bent, it's more likely to be one or more of the front suspension links/arms going bad. That creak is a very common complaint when they're on the way out. Usually replacing those links is a total pain in the rear end because most of the time they're frozen in the spindle, the pinch bolt is seized or any combination of both. I've had to use the oxy torch, an air hammer and a drill to get that pinch bolt out on many occasions. Since I work in the rust belt, the cars I see tend to have corrosion that makes it much more difficult but if you're from a non-salty, warmish climate it may go much easier for you. What engine and transmission does this Passat have? It's hard to say what the long term effects of a leaking transmission are in this case. Often mechanics that aren't familiar with VW transmissions see the differential side seals leaking (where the axles come out of the transaxle case) and assume the tranny itself if losing fluid and that's not the case. It's certainly possible that you've got a trans leak but it's not a common problem but I've seen many, many seals leaking differential fluid. If the oil is being burned, that's one thing, if the oil level drops gradually but you're not seeing any blue smoke from the tail pipe then I'd be looking for leaks. We're seeing a lot of cam adjuster seals going bad on the earlier Passats and A4s and they can really drench the engine with oil. Have a look at the rear of the head near the firewall - you should see three T30 Torx bolts. Those bolts fasten the cam adjuster housing so look in that area for some oil accumulation. This is for the 1.8T engine, but the V6 is similar. I'd stay away - at it's age, this Passat will slowly empty your wallet and fill you with hate. No joke about the oil pickup getting sludged up either - I posted some pics in the Mechanical Failures thread of the damage that can be done to the 1.8T when oil can't get to the cam bearings. my1999gsr fucked around with this message at 02:20 on May 12, 2010 |
# ¿ May 12, 2010 01:58 |
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kimbo305 posted:My friend is looking for a quattro A4 in the 4-6k range. This puts him in the very early 2000s. I told him to avoid the 1.8Ts because of sludging. Is that correct? Are there other things to be concerned about? Oil sludge is the main problem with the 1.8T engines so it's an obvious concern, also cam adjuster seals seep oil. The differential side seals (front and rear in the Quattro) and propshaft seals usually develop leaks over time as well. Have a look at the brake flex lines too - the cars in the range you're looking may be cracking as well. Front suspension links are a weak point in those A4s as well as the Passats of that generation. The flex pipe just after the cat may also be getting weak or developing a leak too. Both Passats and A4s in this range can also develop problems with the ABS control module but it's fairly rare. That's all I can think of off hand but those are the more common concerns.
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# ¿ May 14, 2010 01:04 |
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primitive posted:ok so I'm not sure about the Quattro being a wear item - I've only replaced one unit ever and that was due to a seal failing and the diff fluid escaping. It's a shame the US didn't have a manually shifted Quattro - I just take it for granted that most of our A4s are both Quattro and manual. Any Audi that comes into my shop that isn't AWD is considered a "welfare" Audi, aside from the A3.
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# ¿ May 14, 2010 01:09 |
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Mathturbator posted:Brake fluid is fine. I have some trouble following the brakelines, as I'm not used to taking the car apart. I've seen this lighting issue on other VW product before - it's usually because the other 2 brake lights are out. It could be related to your brake issue though - it's hard to say for sure since your vehicle's options aren't familiar to me. I wouldn't worry about your brake lines - if your fluid level if ok then they're not leaking. Wait a second... Your car is a diesel isn't it? Does your gauge cluster have a glow plug light?
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# ¿ May 14, 2010 01:17 |
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Mathturbator posted:No, not a diesel, 2.4 litre V6. You may have a point - when one of the brake bulbs failed, I replaced both bulbs with LED bulbs, thinking they will last longer. Could that cause the third light to come on, through magic? I was speaking with some co-workers about your brake light problems. In light of your changing the bulbs to LEDs I'd recommend you replace them with the original style bulbs and see if the problem is solved. For the cost of a couple of bulbs it's a pretty painless way to check. Also, your car's lighting system is very capable of using the center brake light in this way - it's one of the benefits of having a control module involved in exterior lighting instead of simple relays.
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# ¿ May 15, 2010 14:43 |
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Blacknose posted:Today on my way to work my '98 Golf was running kinda funky, and when I got stuck in traffic I was pretty much watching the temp gauge creep up until I decided it wasn't going to stop and started trying to move over. It was around then that it started smoking hard from the exhaust and I think a bit from the engine somewhere as well but I'm not 100% sure on that. The smoke absolutely stank of burnt oil. I hate to say it but it sounds like you're right about the head gasket. Is there any milky gunk on the dipstick or in the coolant jug? If there is, then I think your head gasket's goose is cooked.
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# ¿ May 18, 2010 00:59 |
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Bob Morales posted:Is this common with 02 Jettas? Pretty easy to call this one. Either the 3 bolts from the block to the mount have broken or the two 18mm bolts that hold the 2-piece mount together have broken. Odds are the 18mm bolts have broken or stripped and the passenger side of the engine is flopping around on that side. And no, it's not common unless someone has screwed up after doing a timing belt and forgot to tighten or overtightened those 2 bolts.
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# ¿ May 18, 2010 01:04 |
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Pipkin posted:Did he just have the timing belt done about 12k miles ago? I don't know for sure on the gassers but on the TDIs the engine mount bolts are torque-to-yield and are one time use only. A lot of techs overlook that fact for some reason and put the old bolts back only to have them break. On the TDIs it sometimes takes out the timing belt and the top end of the engine. Only the two 16 mm engine mount bolts on that side are torque to yield - the other two 18mm bolts aren't and do not require replacement.
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# ¿ May 18, 2010 01:05 |
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primitive posted:the compressors on mk5 cars are a common point of failure. the old part numbers have since been superceded by a more reliable part No every compressor is covered by the supercession - the serial number and climate control options in the vehicle determine that. It's certainly possible your compressor is having some kind of internal problem that prevents it from spinning/compressing smoothly thus causing a parasitic drag on the engine. If that's the case, usually you can smell rubber burning - the accessory drive belt that runs the compressor slips on the pulley because the compressor can't spin freely. Are you getting cold air in the cabin with the A/C on?
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# ¿ May 20, 2010 01:27 |
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insta posted:Nothing mechanically will go wrong. You might burn through O2 sensors faster. On the chance that the car has under 80k miles on it, there's a federal warranty program on bad cats. A dealer will replace it for free. Pretty much this. I assume your state has no emissions testing requirements?
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# ¿ May 20, 2010 01:28 |
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Jimmy Thief posted:Is it nuts to purchase a 2003 Audi A6 Quattro with 160,000 miles on it for 7,500? It's had all the scheduled maintenance done, as well as work like a new fuel pump, water pump, and more. It's never been in an accident and the body looks outstanding, but I'm concerned that it could become a money pit for repairs. In general they tend to be pretty reliable, especially if they've been well taken care of. How long do you plan on owning it for? Things will eventually start to go wrong (like they would on any other vehicle) but the price premium for parts and diagnostics can get out of hand in a hurry. Still, if this A6 is in good shape you should get 2-5 years of decent operation but remember: it IS going on 8 years old.
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# ¿ May 24, 2010 15:11 |
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Action Jackson! posted:I got into a minor bender with my 2006 Rabbit and I need a new bumper cover and passenger headlight assembly. I've tried looking online for replacements and I can't seem to find anything and all of the 10 or so junkyards I've called don't have anything. Is there a reputable place online to buy this stuff? Non-OEM VW body pieces are notoriously difficult to source (at least in my area) so we've tried to find an aftermarket supplier for years with no luck. I'm in Canada though and we just don't have the aftermarket the US does. I will say this though - we've got a saying in the shop: "What does 'aftermarket' mean?" "Does not fit." Any of the VW body parts I've installed have fit perfectly so it can be worth the premium price.
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# ¿ May 24, 2010 15:15 |
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destructo posted:
That's a beautiful S4! That body-style and engine combo have always been my favorite - it doesn't have the 4.2L's grunt but the turbo spool-up and chassis are top-notch.
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# ¿ May 24, 2010 15:18 |
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Just as a side note - I'm going on a 3 day R8 training course at the end of June so if anybody wants technical pics I'll try to snap a few with my phone.
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# ¿ May 24, 2010 15:20 |
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# ¿ Mar 29, 2024 09:34 |
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Action Jackson! posted:It looks like a VW dealership is going to be the way to go. I just got a quote froma local VW dealership and $377 bucks for the bumper cover and $250 for a headlight isn't too bad I guess. Now to find a place to get it painted. Should I completely skip Maaco? I've never heard anything good about their full body painting services but honestly how can you gently caress up a bumper? Never Maaco. Ever. They messed up my old hood and front lip so badly I had to call customer service in Pennsylvania to complain about it. Ask your VW dealership where they get their paint and body work done and see what their prices are like.
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# ¿ May 24, 2010 17:09 |