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my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

wav3form posted:

I'd say the touareg counts... not like the VR6 design is that different between the variations. Thanks for your comments; much appreciated!

Ah, but on the Touareg I have to drop the engine and tranny out of the chassis and then pull the trans and engine apart to get at the chains and tensioners - not the most fun I've ever had, I assure you.

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my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

DONT DO IT posted:

No CELs, though the last time I VAG'd it I think I got "signal to warm up catalyst too low" or something similar (can't remember exactly, but it was a fault with the warm up catalyst). I told the local dealership this and got, "Well, it could be anything." Thanks, Audi.

The 2 coil packs were replaced in trying to diagnose the failed ignition control modules, which were also both replaced at an independent shop. But no, it hasn't been in specifically for a recall, and none were mentioned whenever I went to the dealership.

As for the fuel, I'm not sure. It might though, as it does tend to feel "worse" the lower my fuel gets.

drat nice job on the replies by the way. Thanks.

That code you got was most likely for 02 sensor/catalyst heater circuit too low or something similar - the 02 sensor has a pre-heater in it and they fail from time to time.

Unless it's different in the US (where I'm assuming you're from) then you should have been called in for a coil inspection and replacement if required at no cost to you. Call your dealership with your VIN and see if you qualify. If you can get me the part numbers off all 6 of your coils (the part number is a 9 digit, alpha numeric that's on each coil where the plug connects to it) I can check to see if they qualify for replacement but a call to the dealer is probably easier.

Here's a link: http://www.audicoils.com/

On to your problem - I'm still stumped. I wonder what your rail fuel pressure is. Another useful check is to get your car e-tested to see what kind of tailpipe emissions you've got - that will go a long way to diagnosing the problem. When the weather was still colder, were you able to get good heat from the climate control or was it weaker/cooler than it had been previously?

my1999gsr fucked around with this message at 01:50 on May 4, 2010

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

Opensourcepirate posted:

I'd like some instructions. There's no rush though as I won't be getting around to it this week.

This probably won't help you, but the window stopped working in the exact same way in the winter of 08/09, then fixed itself in the summer of 09 and worked flawlessly, and then started having this behavior again this winter. Thankfully it was up when it stopped working, both times.

Actually this does help. When the regulator assembly is going/gone it will never fix itself. Does the master window switch on the driver's side operate the passenger window or does it not work the same as the passenger door window switch?

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

Autism Sundae posted:

Well, the RVU that I read about is for supposed engine problem that could cause some serious damage, not sure what the details were but it was for early MKVI GTIs and I guess dealerships had to test all GTIs on their lots. Do you have any records of something like that? Sorry I'm not being more specific. I'd be interested in finding out about any available RVUs/TSBs that apply to my car, of course.

I'll ask one of the technicians about dual-mass flywheels when I go get my oil changed, thanks. Don't know if it's likely to fail at 4K miles. As far as vibration though, does that sound like something normal for the engine to you though (I know this is probably a bad question since you haven't seen the car)? Also, can the shop scan my car for faults in real time as it idles, or does the software only show CEL codes?

Thanks again for answering so many questions.

Oh yes, a VAG scan tool (in the right hands) can be used to monitor any system in the vehicle in any condition - moving, running, stopped, idle, key on/engine off. It won't show when a fault is logged (you have to go to a different section in the tool) but if you know what you're looking for in the values you can see when something isn't working correctly.

We've had the dual-mass flywheel go at less then 3000 kms and up believe it or not. It's certainly possible for the engine to have a vibration that's natural but the 2.0T is a pretty smooth, if a little loud (due to the FSI injectors) engine so it seems out of character. I don't see any RVUs or TSB's at this time for your car that would have any serious engine consequences but there may be one issued for US cars that I'm not able to see.

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

Autism Sundae posted:

Oh yeah, one more - what's the effect of ECU adapting? My car has a manual so shifts won't be any smoother, but I'm assuming other things are affected. Will ECU readjust if I change my driving habits?

It can still alter valve timing, fuel trims - pretty much anything you'd be able to do during a dyno tune but in a smaller range. It'll only adapt so far before it hits a limit. To get past that, you need a chip.

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

primitive posted:

Do you see any big differences in the quality of the techs that work at VW and Audi dealerships? I'd gladly take my GTI for its scheduled maintenance (especially the DSG oil changeout) to an Audi dealership if I knew I would have a reduced chance of running into clowns :)

The techs are usually skilled at the dealerships BUT the real difference is integrity when it comes to diagnosing and repairing vehicles - some guys just don't have any sense of what's right when it comes to repairs. I'm lucky - my shop's techs are all top-notch and there's never a question with their skills or integrity - we've all had to deal with the "crooked grease monkey" stigma in the trade so it's something we strive to erase.

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

teh jhey posted:

This is interesting.

I'm having an issue on my '09 6-speed GTI where when I'm rolling out from a dead stop in first gear, the throttle feels like it snaps shut for just a split second, causing a sharp, momentary stop in the acceleration, and then it's smooth through the rest of first and the other gears. My foot is on the gas for the whole time.

I put a boost gauge in, and it looks like as I'm getting onto the gas and it climbs towards -10 PSI, it suddenly drops back to -17 right when that "stop" happens.

Is this related to the throttle, or is it just some sort of thing that happens in turbo cars? I have no idea what to even call this issue, so I don't know how to search for it.

I've never watched boost during acceleration (at least not for the concern you have) but it seems funny that you'd drop boost - it's usually pretty linear. This might be worth a trip to the dealer - it doesn't sound like normal operation. It *might* have something to do with the chipping but that's an aspect of VW/Audi that I know very little about since our dealership doesn't do any chipping/modding other than strictly VAG parts. I love driving chipped turbo cars - if I owned a VW it would be the first thing I'd do.

my1999gsr fucked around with this message at 23:37 on May 4, 2010

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

Autism Sundae posted:

Oh yeah, hey my1999gsr have you heard anything about GTI/A3 water pumps failing? There's a thread here: http://golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4872&highlight=water+pump but I don't know if there's a TSB out for it. It would be nice to know which cars are affected.

I haven't seen this problem yet and there's no applicable TSBs for it currently. That doesn't mean it isn't a problem though - just not one I'm familiar with yet.

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

Late Hit posted:

This I can help with. My water pump (on the 02 Quattro) had failed. I assume it wasn't changed with the cambelt when that was done at 48k, Made it do around 60k and impeller failed. Leading to overheating. I'm told that on the engine my car has, it's a relatively simple (<4hr) job to do the water pump and cambelt, compared to some.

If you you've got an 02 with the 1.8T then yes, those pumps are all junk but if the poster is talking about the A3/GTI with the 2.0T then the failure rate hasn't been an issue as yet.

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

my1999gsr posted:

I'll check it out for you on Monday and get a part number. What country are you in?

According to my parts dept your part number is N 104 457 01 - gas discharge bulb.

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

A.C.A.M. posted:

Thanks for this thread, my1999gsr.

I have an issue which has been causing me a lot of frustration and embarassment. The dealer I was getting the car serviced at could never seem to fault/diagnose the problem as it is very intermittent. I always sort of got the feeling they didn't believe me. They did eventually do a lot of work under warranty but it didn't fix it.

I have a 9N MY06 Polo GTI manual, all stock. Occasionally when shifting from 1-2 or 2-3 it crunches into gear. Sometimes it feels like the crunch you'd get from not clutching in enough. Sometimes it feels like there's a lot of resistance at the gate and then it just sorta gets 'sucked in' with a crunch. It almost always occurs during fast shifts when I'm driving hard. It's a bit embarassing out and about because everyone nearby thinks you fudged a shift.

For a long time I couldn't get the dealer to find fault with it. Eventually I was able to induce the problem by coasting and shifting back and forth between 3 and 4. As I did that it would just continually crunch into 3. After this they replaced 3rd gear, and then eventually every gear (except reverse), although I was never given a conclusive answer as to what the problem was. Throughout the history of this problem I have had everything done from a synchro ring (apparently some kind of known issue and replaced with an improved part), to having the gear oil changed to a different type.

After the gearbox rebuild it seemed to be better for a short while but it's happening again.

Another thing; I have never driven another GTI so I don't know if this is normal but the gears are so notchy! You really have to push it to get it through the gate. My S2000 is a little notchy too but it's such a short throw you don't really notice, and fast changes are a breeze compared to the Polo.

I will be taking the vehicle to a different garage in future. I don't expect you to be able to solve the problem but if you could give me some ideas to bounce off a new technician it would be very much appreciated. I know a little about cars but I am a pussy who doesn't want to do his own work in case he breaks something. God knows I've done enough of that on my various PCs.

Phew, sorry about the wall of text. I actually had a couple of other things I wanted to ask about dash rattles and aftermarket ECU but this post is probably selfish enough as it is.

Sorry - we don't get the Polo in North America so I'm not famliiar with it specifically but I can offer a suggestion - bleed your clutch and/or change the clutch fluid. Given what's already been tried with your car I'd want to make sure the hydraulic system for the clutch was in good shape before going further.

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

omgitstheinternet posted:

I currently have a CEL due to my car not having a cat, I will be fixing this today, do I need to have the code cleared or will it automatically go away when all is well?

e: 2002 GTI 1.8T, just in case it matters.

You'll need to get it erased - after a couple of driving cycles with the same high authority fault it'll be saved and the MIL will stay on.

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

Autism Sundae posted:

Oh yeah, hey my1999gsr have you heard anything about GTI/A3 water pumps failing? There's a thread here: http://golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4872&highlight=water+pump but I don't know if there's a TSB out for it. It would be nice to know which cars are affected.

So as luck would have it we got a GLI Jetta (with the 2.0T) today with a coolant leak. After we called Tech Line they suggested checking the water pump for leaks and sure enough the water pump was leaking at the bearing. From the way the Tech advisor jumped on a coolant leak being caused by a water pump in that engine leads me to believe that it's a well-known problem.

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

Opensourcepirate posted:

Edit: Actually went out to my car to verify things.

The behavior is exactly the same when using the drivers side window control (of the passenger window) and the passenger side control.

When you press the control, either up or down, there's a click sound from the door, followed by another click sound about a second later or when the button is released - whichever comes first. So if you just tapped the button, it would be a rapid fire click-click. If you hold the button, it sounds almost like the tick tock of a clock, with one tick and a slightly different sounding tick about a second later. If the car is off, there's enough current draw to slightly dim the dome light for exactly the time from the first click to the second click. If you hold the button down, there's no sign of significant current draw after the second click.

Well, it sounds like the window motor is encountering excessive resistance when it tries to operate so it's thermal protection shuts it off. At this point I'd pull the inner door panel off, remove the window motor, plug it into the door harness and try to operate it. If it makes the click noise and the dome light dims but the motor doesn't run than I'd say your window motor is done. If it runs forward and reverse fine then I'd think your window regulator assembly is failing and jamming up. If the motor is bad then you'll need to replace it. Here's the catch - I think the window motor is also the control module for that door and it has to be coded correctly to the vehicle so if you go to the wrecker for a replacement it may or may not work. The driver's window motor is for sure the control module for that door but I can't remember if the passenger side module is a slave to it or if it exists on it's own.

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

Blackdawgg posted:

Do you know a lot about the DSG? I don't know if this is a problem or not but my DSG always seems to have the clutch engaged and wanting to creep forward.

Two examples.
If I stop the car slowly and smoothly it won't disengage the clutch, if I put it into neutral I can definitely feel it disengage.

If I stop the car quickly with moderate braking it will disengage the clutch by itself and putting the car into neutral when stopped doesn't change anything. It will engage the clutch again when I let off the brake.

I tried to explain this to the dealer but they looked at me like I was crazy. Also my GTi sounds like a diesel and my exhaust tip is dirtier than those new TDi's. Why do they run so rich?

What year is you GTI?

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

primitive posted:

Will lowering springs cause premature suspension wear in my car? I have an early 2007 GTI, and the stock springs for that car make it look like a minivan. The switch to the lower ride height happened about a month after my car was produced. What I'm wondering is if I switch to springs that lower me to late-07 OEM equivalent, do I risk premature wear to any other parts of the suspension that might be tuned for the higher ride height?

http://www.mjmautohaus.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=2_6_8697_19901_19918_19919&info=Eibach_85100.140_Pro-Kit_Springs&products_id=1849

I'm not sure of the drop you'd get with the later version springs but it's a good rule of thumb to get the car aligned after you install any different suspension parts. It might still be within spec but you can get an alignment for $80ish and not have to worry about eating tires.

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

heat posted:

I bought a 94 jetta with a broken front spring, and I found a guy who put new struts on his mk3 and then promptly bent the frame in an accident, so I figured I would just buy the whole assembly from him. After building my own tool for the absolutely ridiculous front strut mounts (grinding down both sides of a 22mm socket so I can grab it with a crescent wrench while putting a hex key down through the middle to hold the post) and that not working, the only other thing the internet is telling me is that an impact wrench can pop those nuts right off without bothering with a hex key to stop the post from spinning. Is this accurate?

I do it all the time actually and it works very well. Keep in mind that you also have to reinstall everything and the impact doesn't do that quite as well - it tends to spin the shaft of the strut.

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

Blackdawgg posted:

It is a 2007

Your problem isn't a familiar one to me but I'll ask around at the shop to see if anyone else has encountered it.

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

Sepist posted:

Red, it wasn't the temp sensor it must've been coolant low light, I popped the hood before work this morning and the reservoir was empty. I filled it back up but I really hope that's not a head gasket leak. It went from full resevoir to empty in 3 weeks.

Coolant levels can gradually drop over time without any leaks so if you haven't had to top off the jug in a year or so you might just have been low. Keep a close eye on the coolant level for the next couple of hours of driving. If the coolant level drops enough for you to notice it or turn on the temp light then it's time to pressurize the coolant circuit and look for leaks.

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

Rhusitaurion posted:

I just recently got an 01.5 S4, and I've got a question about a noise it makes. It seems like once it warms up, it makes a rather noticeable roaring noise on acceleration and in motion, distinct from the engine, turbo, and road noises. It's most prominent in 1st gear, but seems like it's there in other gears too, though not very noticeable. It's also there when the car's cold, but much quieter. I'm wondering if this is a normal noise, or if not, what it might be (some kind of bearing somewhere?).

That's tough to diagnose without actually hearing it. I'd like to say wheel bearing because the A4-series Audi bearings do have a shorter lifespan than I'd like. Are you getting the noise from the front, rear, left, right, during accel AND coasting, when turning left or right, going over bumps? A few more details might help me point you in the right direction.

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

Rhusitaurion posted:

I'm pretty sure it's not a wheel bearing, as I had it in a shop recently for what I thought was a wheel bearing, and it turned out that I was a moron and the wheels were bent and thus noisy. I replaced the wheels and that noise is gone.

It's coming from the front, and seems to be mainly related to engine speed, i.e. increases in loudness as RPM increases, and if I let off the gas and coast in gear it will decrease as I slow. Doesn't seem to be affected by turning or bumps, but I'll have to do more extensive testing. I suppose it's possible that this is just a normal noise, but I haven't driven long enough in a "known-good" S4 to really tell.

If you rev the engine in neutral is the noise there?

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

bennyfactor posted:

(quasi-cross-post from the 'piss you off' thread)

I tried replacing the low-beam bulb after I got it, thanks to your help with the part number.



I got the hood release pull taken off (a little tricky with big fingers), two bolts and seven plastic clips for the grille, four bolts for the bumper under thre grille, two bolts holding on the pillars of the bumper that go between the grille and the headlamps, three quick release bolts that hold the underside of the bumper-airdam to the bottom of the car, three bolts on each side of the wheel well, and it still wouldn't slide out of the guide pieces. It feels like its binding, or is still screwed in where the lip of the bumper meets the fender, but I can't see any bolts there and I'd have to take off the wheel well covers to investigate further.


I'd love to change the bulb out -- do you have any suggestions?

Did you get the 2 #5's on the diagram? If I recall, those 2 screws will go upwards between the plastic of the bumper cover and the metal of the fender itself. There should be an indent/cutout in the fender-liner right where the fender and bumper meet so that you can access the screws.

EDIT: Wait a sec.. Isn't your car a Passat? If it is, then there's 1 or 2 10mm nuts that you have to move the fender liner out of the way to see. With the fender liner out of the way, if you shine a light forward (toward the back of the turn signal lens in the bumper) you should see them.

my1999gsr fucked around with this message at 01:04 on May 10, 2010

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

Autism Sundae posted:

Can a VW owner take his car to an Audi dealership for warranty service or vice versa (Audi owner going to a VW dealer)?

There are lots of non-VW shops that do warranty work. As long as the parts are correct and installed correctly it's usually covered.

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

wolrah posted:

Just for curiosity's sake, how willing are VAG and dealers to assist in pairing parts that can work together, but may not have shipped together in this market or anywhere?

For example, I was recently reading the build log of someone who took a 323i sedan and swapped in the engine, SMG, and ECU from a M3 of the same generation to build the E46 M3 sedan that BMW never bothered to. He was able to take the car to his local BMW dealer and have them flip the necessary software switches in the ECU to have it acknowledge it was now in a sedan and should look for the modules found in a sedan without trouble, even though that particular engine+body combination never officially existed.

I've heard enough about various part swaps with other VWs and Audis from my GTI-owning friend to assume VAG does something similar with their computers, so that got me thinking. If someone had the money, could they pick up an A6 Avant, trans/AWD from a S6, and import the twin-turbo V10, put it all together, haul it to the dealer (or even hook up to a VAG-COM system maybe?) for programming, and drive out with what is effectively a RS6 Avant (ignoring the other more minor differences for sake of not listing them)? Obviously this is hypothetical and would require a lot of time/money, but it's the VAG car I lust over most so it was the first to come to mind. I'm sure some less extreme combos could be thought of, maybe GTI chassis with the TDI motor to give us the GTD model the Europeans get.

We occasionally get requests from customers for things like this. At the dealership level it's a rare event mainly because of the costs involved. Once we quote out the parts cost with the labor, most people back off. I'm the guy in the dealership that would volunteer for a job like that because it looks like fun (and I'm not flat rate) but it's just not something most dealerships would be into. We'll certainly order the parts for you (in most cases - sometimes we aren't even allowed to order non N. American parts) but after that, it's up to you.

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

insta posted:

Mk5 Jetta:

I've got (well, had) the 6-disc no navi VW radio. I want to change it out for a DVD player, for passenger comfort on road-trips. I ordered my parts from sonicelectronix, and according to their "pick stuff for your car" thingie, only single-DIN units fit into the Jetta. I know this is a load of crap, because the Scoshe adapter is a drat double-DIN one. Are there depth concerns with most double-DIN replacement units? I'm looking at this Clarion unit.

What the christ are they saying won't fit with my car? :confused:

Well, the stock radio in all the VW line (at least in N. America anyway) is a double DIN and it has a pile of room behind it too - I'd say 6" or more so it shouldn't interfere with an aftermarket radio in any way. I've seen a very similar unit to the one you're looking at installed in a newer A4 Audi which has about the same amount of space. Try Crutchfield.com and see what they say fits in your car.

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

hayden. posted:

I'm looking at buying my friend's 2002 Passat for about $3000. I've personally driven it about 5,000 miles over the past 4 years and it's not great, but it'd be cheap. It has 125,000 miles.

Some problems:
-I think a tie-end rod is bent - tracks off to the side and creaks when turning
-Burns a lot of oil - it's done this for a couple thousand miles now
-Random plastic tabs (like the one holding the driver door handle on) are breaking everywhere
-Two tires are bald
-Transmission is kind of clunky, this has also been the case for a while. At one point a mechanic said the transmission was leaking but that was at least 5k miles go and nothing has exploded yet.

I'm mechanically inclined enough to do just about anything motorcycle maintenance related, so I figure I can probably fix this stuff myself for the cost of parts. I really have no idea what the root of the oil problem is. I'm guessing some sort of gasket? Also no idea how much gasket stuff plus ATF plus tie end plus tires are going to cost.

Worth $3000 or should I avoid?

That creak and tracking problem isn't likely a tie rod being bent, it's more likely to be one or more of the front suspension links/arms going bad. That creak is a very common complaint when they're on the way out. Usually replacing those links is a total pain in the rear end because most of the time they're frozen in the spindle, the pinch bolt is seized or any combination of both. I've had to use the oxy torch, an air hammer and a drill to get that pinch bolt out on many occasions. Since I work in the rust belt, the cars I see tend to have corrosion that makes it much more difficult but if you're from a non-salty, warmish climate it may go much easier for you.

What engine and transmission does this Passat have?

It's hard to say what the long term effects of a leaking transmission are in this case. Often mechanics that aren't familiar with VW transmissions see the differential side seals leaking (where the axles come out of the transaxle case) and assume the tranny itself if losing fluid and that's not the case. It's certainly possible that you've got a trans leak but it's not a common problem but I've seen many, many seals leaking differential fluid.

If the oil is being burned, that's one thing, if the oil level drops gradually but you're not seeing any blue smoke from the tail pipe then I'd be looking for leaks. We're seeing a lot of cam adjuster seals going bad on the earlier Passats and A4s and they can really drench the engine with oil. Have a look at the rear of the head near the firewall - you should see three T30 Torx bolts. Those bolts fasten the cam adjuster housing so look in that area for some oil accumulation. This is for the 1.8T engine, but the V6 is similar.

I'd stay away - at it's age, this Passat will slowly empty your wallet and fill you with hate. No joke about the oil pickup getting sludged up either - I posted some pics in the Mechanical Failures thread of the damage that can be done to the 1.8T when oil can't get to the cam bearings.

my1999gsr fucked around with this message at 02:20 on May 12, 2010

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

kimbo305 posted:

My friend is looking for a quattro A4 in the 4-6k range. This puts him in the very early 2000s. I told him to avoid the 1.8Ts because of sludging. Is that correct? Are there other things to be concerned about?

Oil sludge is the main problem with the 1.8T engines so it's an obvious concern, also cam adjuster seals seep oil. The differential side seals (front and rear in the Quattro) and propshaft seals usually develop leaks over time as well. Have a look at the brake flex lines too - the cars in the range you're looking may be cracking as well. Front suspension links are a weak point in those A4s as well as the Passats of that generation. The flex pipe just after the cat may also be getting weak or developing a leak too. Both Passats and A4s in this range can also develop problems with the ABS control module but it's fairly rare. That's all I can think of off hand but those are the more common concerns.

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

primitive posted:

ok so

if it's a quattro A4 in the USA it'll be an automatic transmission, which are terrible in that era. the quattro unit itself is a wear item. expect the typical mk4 niggles (window regulators / coolant migration / etc etc etc)

I'm not sure about the Quattro being a wear item - I've only replaced one unit ever and that was due to a seal failing and the diff fluid escaping. It's a shame the US didn't have a manually shifted Quattro - I just take it for granted that most of our A4s are both Quattro and manual. Any Audi that comes into my shop that isn't AWD is considered a "welfare" Audi, aside from the A3.

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

Mathturbator posted:

Brake fluid is fine. I have some trouble following the brakelines, as I'm not used to taking the car apart.

Anyway, a friend of mine noticed that my third brake light (the brake-light at the roofline on the wagon) is constantly on, although dimmed. When I press the brake it lights up fully, but otherwise it's on just like the rear running light. Is this normal? I've never seen other cars do this, and I was wondering if there was some connection to the brake warning.

I've seen this lighting issue on other VW product before - it's usually because the other 2 brake lights are out. It could be related to your brake issue though - it's hard to say for sure since your vehicle's options aren't familiar to me.

I wouldn't worry about your brake lines - if your fluid level if ok then they're not leaking. Wait a second... Your car is a diesel isn't it? Does your gauge cluster have a glow plug light?

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

Mathturbator posted:

No, not a diesel, 2.4 litre V6. You may have a point - when one of the brake bulbs failed, I replaced both bulbs with LED bulbs, thinking they will last longer. Could that cause the third light to come on, through magic?

The brake warning light was on before I replaced the bulbs though.

I was speaking with some co-workers about your brake light problems. In light of your changing the bulbs to LEDs I'd recommend you replace them with the original style bulbs and see if the problem is solved. For the cost of a couple of bulbs it's a pretty painless way to check. Also, your car's lighting system is very capable of using the center brake light in this way - it's one of the benefits of having a control module involved in exterior lighting instead of simple relays.

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

Blacknose posted:

Today on my way to work my '98 Golf was running kinda funky, and when I got stuck in traffic I was pretty much watching the temp gauge creep up until I decided it wasn't going to stop and started trying to move over. It was around then that it started smoking hard from the exhaust and I think a bit from the engine somewhere as well but I'm not 100% sure on that. The smoke absolutely stank of burnt oil.

When I check everything over most of the coolant was gone and what was left looked kinda swampy and not good and a fair amount of oil had gone too with what was left smelling burnt. Once I got it towed home I topped everything up and let her idle for a few minutes but within that amount of time she was smoking again so I gave up on that idea.

That I can see there aren't any major oil leaks although a tiny bit is seeping down the back of the engine block - that said it's a petrol engine with 140k on it so it isn't surprising.

I'm thinking my head gasket made a bid for freedom. What do you reckon?

I wouldn't mind so much if my 1965 Type 3 hadn't done the same thing last week :smith:

I hate to say it but it sounds like you're right about the head gasket. Is there any milky gunk on the dipstick or in the coolant jug? If there is, then I think your head gasket's goose is cooked.

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

Bob Morales posted:

Is this common with 02 Jettas?



I was going to just drive it up on ramps and jack the engine up and try to put the bolts back on. Unless of course the bolts broke or something. I left it at a shop this morning, hopefully they can fix it quickly.

I heard something fall out of the engine bay...Then leaving from a stop light THUD THUD THUD THUD

Not my car if it matters.

Pretty easy to call this one. Either the 3 bolts from the block to the mount have broken or the two 18mm bolts that hold the 2-piece mount together have broken. Odds are the 18mm bolts have broken or stripped and the passenger side of the engine is flopping around on that side.

And no, it's not common unless someone has screwed up after doing a timing belt and forgot to tighten or overtightened those 2 bolts.

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

Pipkin posted:

Did he just have the timing belt done about 12k miles ago? I don't know for sure on the gassers but on the TDIs the engine mount bolts are torque-to-yield and are one time use only. A lot of techs overlook that fact for some reason and put the old bolts back only to have them break. On the TDIs it sometimes takes out the timing belt and the top end of the engine.

Only the two 16 mm engine mount bolts on that side are torque to yield - the other two 18mm bolts aren't and do not require replacement.

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

primitive posted:

the compressors on mk5 cars are a common point of failure. the old part numbers have since been superceded by a more reliable part

No every compressor is covered by the supercession - the serial number and climate control options in the vehicle determine that.

It's certainly possible your compressor is having some kind of internal problem that prevents it from spinning/compressing smoothly thus causing a parasitic drag on the engine. If that's the case, usually you can smell rubber burning - the accessory drive belt that runs the compressor slips on the pulley because the compressor can't spin freely. Are you getting cold air in the cabin with the A/C on?

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

insta posted:

Nothing mechanically will go wrong. You might burn through O2 sensors faster. On the chance that the car has under 80k miles on it, there's a federal warranty program on bad cats. A dealer will replace it for free.

Pretty much this. I assume your state has no emissions testing requirements?

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

Jimmy Thief posted:

Is it nuts to purchase a 2003 Audi A6 Quattro with 160,000 miles on it for 7,500? It's had all the scheduled maintenance done, as well as work like a new fuel pump, water pump, and more. It's never been in an accident and the body looks outstanding, but I'm concerned that it could become a money pit for repairs.

Are they reliable enough to justify the price?

In general they tend to be pretty reliable, especially if they've been well taken care of. How long do you plan on owning it for? Things will eventually start to go wrong (like they would on any other vehicle) but the price premium for parts and diagnostics can get out of hand in a hurry. Still, if this A6 is in good shape you should get 2-5 years of decent operation but remember: it IS going on 8 years old.

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

Action Jackson! posted:

I got into a minor bender with my 2006 Rabbit and I need a new bumper cover and passenger headlight assembly. I've tried looking online for replacements and I can't seem to find anything and all of the 10 or so junkyards I've called don't have anything. Is there a reputable place online to buy this stuff?

Non-OEM VW body pieces are notoriously difficult to source (at least in my area) so we've tried to find an aftermarket supplier for years with no luck. I'm in Canada though and we just don't have the aftermarket the US does. I will say this though - we've got a saying in the shop:

"What does 'aftermarket' mean?"
"Does not fit."

Any of the VW body parts I've installed have fit perfectly so it can be worth the premium price.

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

destructo posted:


A friend of mine bought a car recently :madmax:

That's a beautiful S4! That body-style and engine combo have always been my favorite - it doesn't have the 4.2L's grunt but the turbo spool-up and chassis are top-notch.

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009
Just as a side note - I'm going on a 3 day R8 training course at the end of June so if anybody wants technical pics I'll try to snap a few with my phone.

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my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

Action Jackson! posted:

It looks like a VW dealership is going to be the way to go. I just got a quote froma local VW dealership and $377 bucks for the bumper cover and $250 for a headlight isn't too bad I guess. Now to find a place to get it painted. Should I completely skip Maaco? I've never heard anything good about their full body painting services but honestly how can you gently caress up a bumper?

Never Maaco. Ever. They messed up my old hood and front lip so badly I had to call customer service in Pennsylvania to complain about it. Ask your VW dealership where they get their paint and body work done and see what their prices are like.

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