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meatpimp posted:It's too bad that the quattro mailing list didn't make the jump to web forums. It was one of, if not the, first automotive online community... sadly it died. Wow...I always though Rennlist one one of the first (96). I just did a quick search and the quatro list started back in 91. Impressive.
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Jul 1, 2011 13:07
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Autism Monday posted:I'd get it but can't really justify $350+ for changing two settings and then never using the cable again. What's wrong with the $50 (and under) cables on eBay?
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Jul 8, 2011 12:40
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Autism Monday posted:I didn't even know they were available there. Thanks, I'll check them out.. what's the type I should get though? I got one that shipped out of Hong Kong for $30 including shipping. It works just fine on things I've hooked it up to, including a 2010 A8. Just search for vagcom and you'll see a bunch of them. I got a USB to OBD-II one to avoid any possible stupidity/compatibility issues with bluetooth, but I may just be over cautious.
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Jul 8, 2011 15:35
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Neo_Reloaded posted:It was really that dumb? I'm just surprised because said friend seems very good with cars (does all his own repairs, and is capable enough to rebuild engines and such) - I really trusted him when he told me that. Wow. Yes. It was really that dumb. Amazingly stupid. You should basically question whether he actually is "very good with cars" if he actually hates you. Since you've melted part of the plastic, you're going to need to start with wet sanding, followed by progressively finer polishing compounds. It's not an impossible project depending on your skill level and attention span. At this point, it would probably be easier to take them out of the car and do them on a bench.
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Jul 19, 2011 14:32
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MadMax posted:they want to charge me a half hour of labor ($60 + tax) You think they are a non-profit or something? While their labor rate seems high, I would expect it to take at least 30 minutes of their time. You've already taken 5 with the phone call. This is how businesses work. If they don't think they'll get any good will out of you that might get to you buy a car from them (you are asking them about a 14 year old car, so.....no) they're going to want to make something.
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Jul 27, 2011 02:35
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MadMax posted:I understand that they are a business and the point of a business is to make money. Every forum post/info I could find through google indicated that all it took was going to the dealer with the VIN and maybe the serial number of the radio, they punch it into a computer and have the security code for you in 3 minutes. No mention of hooking the vehicle up to the diagnostic computer or anything like that - so am I getting taken for a ride by this particular dealership, has the process changed or are the internets lying to me? You may have gotten the incorrect details from them, or maybe they are tired of explaining that the minimum charge for 15 to 20 minutes worth of work is 30 minutes. Understand, that just because it only takes 3 minutes at a computer to retrieve the number, that doesn't tak into account the time to talk to you, bill, collect money, have you there, verify that you are the owner of the car, etc, etc. el topo posted:Sometimes the code is also on a sticker on the radio itself, but you'd need to take it out to find out. You think the code that is supposed to dissuade someone from stealing your stereo because it gets locked when power is cut is going to be on a sticker ON THE STEREO? Where did you hear this?
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Jul 27, 2011 03:21
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Gix posted:
Because it was damaged coming off the truck? On the lot? They have to disclose that. If not, who cares? It's a new car and its under warranty.
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Aug 7, 2011 03:11
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Acknot posted:Well this is just great. I just picked up a 2006 Audi A4 2.0 TFSI and there is no key for the detachable towhitch (clarification - the towbar for puling my car trailer). Are you saying you have a lockable draw pin (so people can't steal the hitch)? If so, that's tho stock. If you find the manufacturer on it you could call them and see if their keys are universal, or if they can get you another. Or you can do the easy thing and just stop by a welding shop and slip somebody $10 to cut it off and then go get a new one.
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Aug 7, 2011 17:28
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Acknot posted:There are good suggestions, but where do I cut in order to be able to replace it? Looke like the locking mechanism has a sliding piston. If I cut the hitch itself, how do I remove the stub that's left on the car? Not sure what style you have....can you grab a picture of it? Most I've seen are just bent at one end, and have a notch for the lock to engage with on the other. If you cut either end off of those, it will just slide through. I can't imagine that there would be anything keeping it from sliding through inside on yours either, as putting any sort of mechanism through that pin is just going to serve to weaken it.
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Aug 7, 2011 19:04
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Frank Dillinger posted:How dumb would I have to be to buy a 1990 Audi coupe quattro? Especially say, one with 200k miles, and mismatched panels? Asking price is 1200$, I'm going to have a look at it tomorrow regardless. If you don't do your own work or aren't independently wealthy? Pretty stupid. On the other hand, if you have or are willing to acquire some tools, have a place to work, and are interested in learning it could be goddamn magical.
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Aug 8, 2011 03:21
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Frank Dillinger posted:Well, I have a heated garage to work in, and basic tools, I think I'm just looking for an excuse to buy more tools and such. I have a decent mechanical aptitude, but the only thing really giving me worry is that parts might be hard to find, especially electronics stuff, and even moreso coupe specific parts. That's just the way it works...sometimes it takes a while to get parts. Sometimes you pay way to much when you are impatient/desperate. With the attitude you have about looking for excuses to buy tools and if you have something else to drive, even if it's just a beater you'll be fine. Find the model specific forums for those things and get to know the guys who have parts cars. Figure out where you get parts you need new cheap (Pelican Parts will probably be on that list). Accept that it won't always be pretty, and won't always run, and that you might need to wait on parts for a while and drive something else. If you can do all of those things, as well as pay attention to details, sounds, and smells, you will likely be happy and never left waiting for a tow truck. I'm doing all of those things to daily drive a 25 year old sports car. I have better/newer/more expensive cars to choose from. But I consider them backups, because that's just what I want to be driving.
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Aug 8, 2011 21:52
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Aceshighxxx posted:Problems Do you have emissions and/or inspection in your state? If so, a check engine light likely means you aren't going to pass. The head gasket...."behind the water pump"? It's got a bad head gasket that needs to be changed, and he's filled it full of snake oil. This is why he's selling it. It's an $800 job to repair. And then you need to flush the crap out of the cooling system that he's been putting in there so it cools properly. And hope the heater core isn't clogged up. And the radiator. And while you do that job, it only makes sense to change the water pump and timing belt. Again, this is why the car is being sold. If you don't know how to evaluate and/or repair these things, those are gigantic red warning flags telling you to run away. $1,500 is probably a fair price, but understand what you are getting into. This car should be worth $800 more in good condition. Which happens to be the price of the head gasket job which you will likely need.
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Oct 24, 2011 00:03
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Aceshighxxx posted:Are head gasket failures common on the 2.8l 12v? The guy kept saying that he was sure it was the water pump gasket. Unfortunately I didn't really have a way to verify that. I am kind of annoyed that he filled it with stop leak, too. I don't think I'd have too much of an issue doing a head gasket job myself, but finding the time to do it will be difficult. It's not like its some epidemic problem, but someone who thinks stop leak is a good idea is probably the same kind of guy who thinks he doesn't need to change his coolant. At that age, you're probably looking at some nasty stuff that's in there (not even counting the stop leak) that has eaten things up. If the same coolant is in it, you can pull a pH test strip to see how close to 5 is probably is. So, even if this is just the water pump gasket, why would it be eaten up and not the head gasket? Shoddy replacement? Never replaced? Bad coolant change intervals (meaning the head gasket is junk too)? The point is, you don't know, and there is no reasonable way to find out. When you don't know, you have to make your offer price for the worst case scenario, and expect to own that scenario. Anything else is setting yourself up for disappointment. I take a very conservative view about buying. If it can't be verified, I assume the worst and offer accordingly if I'm willing to purchase something with that worst case scenario. There are too may other cars out there for sale to compromise on this kind of thing.
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Oct 24, 2011 01:17
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DerDestroyer posted:Anyone know how to use the VCDS and where to plugin the cable? Is there a way to get an app that you can hook up to your car via Bluetooth so you don't have to mess with the cables? Well, VCDS doesn't come as a smartphone app as far as I know. But you use an appropriate OBD-II to USB cable, or an appropriate OBD-II bluetooth dongle. With the bluetooth dongle, you could run VCDS on a laptop with bluetooth, and use the same dongle to connect to a smartphone with an app that will read at least basic OBD-II codes and provide live data.
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Oct 28, 2011 20:32
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DerDestroyer posted:Do you buy VCDS or is it a free tool? The correct thing is literally the first google result for "VCDS". It is commercial software. I'm confused: if you don't know what it is, why do you think you need it? If you are looking to pull basic P-coded DTCs (see why your check engine light is on) and look at basic live data, VCDS is absolute overkill. DerDestroyer posted:Where is the OBD2 located on the Golf MKVI? All OBDII connectors are within 3 feet of the driver and require no tools to access. That's the law. Chances are high it's going to be quite obvious to find if you stick your head under the steering wheel. It's going to be on the right or left just under or attached to the edge of the dash. I have literally never had a problem finding one on any car, and really don't think about it enough to even remember where they are from model to model. They're always right there and obvious.
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Oct 28, 2011 21:36
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Rubies posted:If I put $500 with the expectation of being talked down to 4, is that reasonable? Too much? Too little? I don't usually trifle with carfoolery like this because I take the subway everywhere so I have no idea what's expected. If there are ANY good parts on it that is UNREASONABLY LOW. $400-500 is what you should be expecting from a scrap yard that will be coming to you to pick it up. People who are interested in a parts car like that are going to want a lot more information about things than the average person, and are fewer and further inbetween. So it could take some time to juice $2-400 more out of it. Up to you if that's worth the effort.
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Nov 13, 2011 23:39
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Opensourcepirate posted:I figure the next step is to replace the relay, but I thought I'd ask here before I buy a part I might not need. Do I need to disconnect the battery when I replace the relay? I didn't for the fuse but maybe I should have. It is pretty unlikely that a relay is going to blow the switched load side fuse. In fact, I can't think of any way that would happen short of some very odd type of malfunction in the relay itself that I've certainly never seen. You need to be checking the amperage draw on the plugs. Sounds like one or more are way over, or you have a partial short somewhere in front of the 50 A fuse. And no on needing to disconnect the battery on either of those.
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Nov 13, 2011 23:41
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Opensourcepirate posted:I was thinking maybe the relay went bad in some way where it's shorting internally. Like I said, the plugs are all within .1 ohm of each other and within spec. I looked for shorts in the engine bay, but the harness wires very quickly join a bunch of other wires in a big bundle. One would start by checking the amperage at the fuse when the plugs are on. If it is high, you move on to checking the amperage while moving as much of the harness as possible to see if it changes. You then go to checking the individual amperage draw on the plugs, which is most easily done leaving your probe in exactly the same spot and leaving only one plug attached at a time. It's your money, so if you prefer throwing parts at things rather than doing diagnostics that is your prerogative.
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Nov 14, 2011 01:43
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Opensourcepirate posted:This is probably a stupid question, but do I need to worry about damaging my multimeter when I try to measure 50+ amps? Not a stupid question at all, but the answer is simple: you need to see if your multimeter is rated for that amount of current or not. I don't know what you have, so I can't tell you for sure. A clamp style is often easiest if you can isolate a run of the wire (or make a wire extension for the fuse). Opensourcepirate posted:I'm confused about how the plugs could be drawing too much power; shouldn't that be determined by their resistance? Not really. Measuring resistance in a static state is not going to show you what they are doing in operation. You may be getting a huge amount of inrush current when they are very cold which is blowing your fuse (resistance typically increases with heat, and lowers the amp draw). You might be partially or dead shorting a connector when they start to warm up. You may have low voltage to one due to a poor connection, which will increase its current draw. I'm sure you get the idea: amperage is a live reading. It shows you what is really happening when the circuit is in operation, rather than testing one single component and calculating what it SHOULD be doing based on that reading. Also, I should mention that cruddy terminals for the fuse, relay, or plugs themselves will do this. Make sure they are all clean before calling a part bad. Protect them with dielectric grease to keep them from getting cruddy.
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Nov 14, 2011 04:28
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warcake posted:Might help if you told us what the car is. Looks like a B6/B7 S4 to me. And yes, you do need to remove the air box. And the washer fluid reservoir to change the other side. Are you asking HOW to do this? The pictures you provided show the screws you need to remove (the two phillips heads closer to the center of the car). And yes, it just pulls out of the air pickup coming out of the passenger's side fender. Have fun putting it back in and getting it to stay. It's a horrible setup. Motronic fucked around with this message at 14:15 on Nov 15, 2011 |
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Nov 15, 2011 14:12
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Thumposaurus posted:FWIW I had an '82 Audi that only had a "wing" like that on the drivers wiper arm. As far as I know it left the factory like that. More 80s cars needed this. I know I've hit 100 when the wiper arms start to lift off the windshield in my 944.
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Nov 17, 2011 14:20
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Zorak of Michigan posted:I'm not sure who made the battery, but I'll happily bash them when I find out. Probably Moll Batterien. They generally aren't too bad. Porsche, Lambo and I think BMW use them.
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Nov 28, 2011 18:07
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PUNCHITCHEWIE posted:Is there anything that can be done to remedy windows freezing shut every cold morning on the Mk6s? I just can't roll them down until I've blasted the heater for half an hour. I've always lived in cold areas but never had this problem with a power windowed car before this VW. If it's the standard/generic "frozen to the gasket" problem, I've always had luck wiping the windows channels/gaskets down with silicone spray.
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Dec 1, 2011 15:57
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real_scud posted:I remember pitching a fit That could be why you got charged for a battery. If you want to lay into someone about this kind of thing, review your warranty documentation first and be sure.
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Dec 12, 2011 01:35
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:This is also my main concern. Parts are most likely not easy to find OR cheap. Parts are easy to find for the most part. At least the things that are likely to keep you from driving it. Fiddly bits for the interior or similar may be a different story. You just need to get used to the idea that you can have it now/tomorrow at an exorbitant price (overnight shipping or a dealer), or you can wait for shipping from most likely CA. I use pelican parts, and I'm on the east coast, so I know I'm waiting. If you're OK with that, and the fact that a parts still cost real money compared to a chevy ($100-200 water pump ordered, $300 at the dealer as opposed to a $15 pump from AutoZone that you can just drive over and pick up right now) you'll be fine. But not everyone is able to wait a week for parts, so the bills stack up. GnarlyCharlie4u posted:I'm sorry I should have specified that it ran fine. I didn't drive it. And the coolant is in fact NOT getting into the oil. It's not a ghost leak, it shows under car but only when running. That's what makes me think it's the water pump leaking. Possibly radiator. If I recall, the water pump is driven by the timing belt on this motor. So here's the issue: that pump seizes and your valves meet your pistons pretty quick, as the belt is going to tear if the pump stops spinning. I would consider part of the cost of buying this car a water pump and timing belt job, along with hoses, a serp belt and possibly the radiator. Figure out what those parts cost, what ill will cost you to get them installed (or your own time), add that to the asking price and decide if its worth it to you.
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Dec 16, 2011 18:35
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Since you obviously know where to get parts at the right prices, know you'll wait, and can do the work I see no reason NOT to go for this car at that price or a bit less after driving it. What else is likely to go wrong? Electronic fiddly bits inside. At 140k and if they haven't been done already, ball joints and dampers. Probably sway bar bushings. I'd want to get each front wheel in the air and see how it feels. But at sub-$1k, you don't have all the much to lose, nor very far to negotiate down considering a set of new snows and front brakes on it.
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Dec 16, 2011 20:42
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Alright, one last question: Where the hell can I find a freaking front bumper (excuse me, fascia) for this thing? I've looked all over and have had no luck. That's the kind of thing that ends up retardedly expensive on a car like this unless you find it on a parts car. I'd try trolling audiforums.com and the like to find someone with something they are parting out. That's how I've repaired numerous older Porsches and Audis on the cheap.
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Dec 16, 2011 21:16
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:a-trolling I will go. I spec'd earlier and didn't find much in the 90's section. Are there other Audi forums I should be aware of? (besides audi world) Audizine if you can handle it. It's sometimes a little to show/no go for me, but when looking for parts who cares.
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Dec 16, 2011 22:09
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Aflicted posted:Is there something at the front driver side part of the car that could have been repaired wrong that would cause the A/C to not work? Yes, and it has nothing to do with the tune. The may have missed something broken. The condenser and lots of lines are all across the front. I'm sure the body shop that repaired it will have little problem tracking it down. Unfortunately, that repair isn't done yet.
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Dec 27, 2011 01:26
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Bolkovr posted:I posted about my 98 New Beetle and its starting issues (turn key to Start and nothing happens) a few pages ago. I replaced the ignition switch and that didn't resolve it, and I jumpered out the clutch interlock, so I think it's the key cylinder. From the Bentley it looks like you have to remove the airbag and chisel out the security bolts and that's beyond my skill level. Is this a dealer only kind of repair, and what kind of price tag am I looking at? Why would it be the lock cylinder? Take the ignition switch back out and turn it manually. If the car still doesn't start (with a key in the ignition for the RF part) it's not the lock cylinder. Also, the lock cylinder is trivially easy to verify its operation. You can literally see it turn with the ignition switch off.
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Jan 20, 2012 00:26
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And real answers begin with getting the code read. Any parts store should do it for free. Make sure you get the NUMBER (s) and not just the description.
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Jan 27, 2012 18:54
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zoux posted:So I put the car in the shop for these issues today, and the diagnosis was: clockspring failure. It's not going to be terribly expensive to fix, which is good. My question is this: could the clockspring failure account for the other electrical issues? No. Look up what a clock spring is and you'll see that it is not an electrical failure but a mechanical one. Yes, electricity passes through it, but it's failure mode has nothing to do with an electrical problem. The electrical problem it causes is a symptom.
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Feb 17, 2012 15:14
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DerDestroyer posted:Is that also the case if you're driving a diesel? I saw a dude stick a downpipe on a MKIV Golf and it shot out clouds of smoke like it was an 18 wheeler. Yes, it is true of a diesel also. Stupid tuning/worn injectors is the only way what you are describing happens.
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Feb 20, 2012 20:28
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Leper Messiah posted:Or the evry mod, though I guess that counts as stupid tuning. That rises to a level beyond stupid. But yeah, we'll cover it there. That mod is what happens when someone with 1/2 an ounce of knowledge applies it to something they know little to nothing about and even less about the fundamental concepts it operates on. Yeah...I used to do the basically same thing turning up the injector pumps on R model Macks. But now I actually know what I'm doing.
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Feb 21, 2012 03:13
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FrankeeFrankFrank posted:Awhile ago my oil change place said i need a new oil pan, (2002 Jetta V6) because the threads of the drain hole on the aluminum oil pan had wore and oil was leaking. They have already used an over sized plug and would pack some kind of putty like stuff around the plug to stop leaks. Bring your car to a real mechanic and not an oil change place. This is not a difficult thing to repair, but what works best will entirely depend on what it looks like.
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Feb 23, 2012 17:45
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Residency Evil posted:I'm thinking about this car: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5533894-FS-09-GTI-United-grey-stage-2..CNJ Why would you buy a car that was obviously/admittedly moded, already on it's second owner at 36k miles, and isn't priced at a huge discount? These aren't rare cars.
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Mar 26, 2012 02:13
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speedtek posted:Just so I'm clear - the 06 A3 is a timing belt? Turns out there's no service records for the one I just bought. Whoopsie. Yes. You need a water pump and timing belt every 95k or so if I recall. Enjoy service position.
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Mar 26, 2012 20:34
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Residency Evil posted:Any thoughts on a 2009 vs 2010 GTI? As far as I can tell the main differences are: Is LSD in quotes because you don't know what it is? Because it's important, and would easily make the decision for me if I enjoyed either or both spirited driving (or more) and/or every had to deal with slippery conditions. It's a limited slip differential, and it makes all the difference in putting power down in corners when trying to go fast or not being stuck in one place or in ice or snow.
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Mar 30, 2012 01:33
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Residency Evil posted:No, LSD is in quotes because it's an electronic one that uses the brakes instead of a mechanical one. Meaning the 2010 has a real LSD? Yeah, I'm not gonna change my opinion. Although sometimes "LSD"/traction control can work pretty well in the slop.
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Mar 30, 2012 02:22
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mrtrunks84 posted:The code is P2182 (Performance Malfunction in Cooling System). This code did not trigger a CEL and I have had my timing belt and water pump service done only 15K miles ago Go drive the piss out of it until it's completely up to temperature and heat soaked. Pull over, turn on the AC. If both fans aren't running, fix as required. I typically find one of them is shot or the wiring has gone bad when I see this code without an overheat or other related DTCs.
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Apr 8, 2012 16:57
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