VW/Audi Exorcism Thread

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > VW/Audi Exorcism Thread

No. 6: Jun 30, 2002

New owner of a 2006 A8L 4.2. Car has about 109k miles on her and about to dive into serious servicing this week. Any advice before I do the oil & filter, trans fluid & strainer, coil packs & plugs, air filter, timing belt with pulleys and tensioners, and water pump?

# ¿ Apr 2, 2014 05:55

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# ¿ Apr 29, 2024 13:22

No. 6: Jun 30, 2002

About 6.5 hours in. We've already done the trans fluid and filter. We're about 40% through the timing belt and all the extras too. Fun stuff!

# ¿ Apr 4, 2014 06:35

No. 6: Jun 30, 2002

Reminder of those of you with timing belts, don't let that poo poo slide. Here's a 4.2 belt with about 109k on the clock back-to-back with a new belt. Not awful but really squared off teeth and starting to fray.

PS. do you water pump and other stuff at the same time.

# ¿ May 4, 2014 15:57

No. 6: Jun 30, 2002

Go by whatever your owner's service book service. For my car it's every 10 years or 115k (I think), whichever comes first. 4 years seems really frequent to me.

Also, drat that 2.0 looks easy as gently caress compared to the 4.2.

# ¿ May 4, 2014 18:21

No. 6: Jun 30, 2002

So my car decided to start sounding as though I replaced the front suspension with rusty leaf-springs. Turns out I have a swaybar link with a dead bushing.

New one looks a lot less smooshed.

It's amazing how much noise can come from such a small part.

# ¿ May 14, 2014 01:15

No. 6: Jun 30, 2002

How in the gently caress can a suspension cost $4,000 to replace?

# ¿ May 14, 2014 04:17

No. 6: Jun 30, 2002

Insane. I would also be switching to normal springs/shocks at that price. How do they get around the ECU constantly throwing codes?

# ¿ May 14, 2014 05:59

No. 6: Jun 30, 2002

Only way to know for sure is pull the codes. Either go to the dealer or find someone with a VAG COM tool. Where are you located?

# ¿ May 15, 2014 10:53

No. 6: Jun 30, 2002

You're in luck. I have one and just moved to Orlando area. I'd be happy to pull your codes/change settings for you. Send me a PM and I'll give you my details.

# ¿ May 15, 2014 14:09

No. 6: Jun 30, 2002

Das Volk posted:

After realizing that the E38 is too much of a disaster to own maintenance-wise, I started thinking about getting a late build first gen S8, preferably a 2002 with the updated braking electronics. Does anyone have any experience with those? Is the 4.2 in that the same ridiculous nightmare of timing chains and guides that like to fail with little or no warning?

You're probably better off going to a little bit newer year. That said, I would not go any newer than 2006 unless you want a timing chain.

The D2 A8/S8 timing belt is about a 6 hour job, the D3 is about 8 hours. The D2 5 speed automatics don't last much beyond 12 year/150,000 miles. The D3 6 speed auto generally much longer.

D3 platform also has a dynamic air suspension which can be expensive to fix. Regardless the D3 platform is nicer and doesn't show its age like the D2 (especially the interior).

I forgot to add that the timing belt, water pump, tensioner, and all of the extra parts generally cost about $1500 to $2000 and it needs to be done about every 10 years or 100,000 miles. That price is just parts, assuming you'll do the work.

No. 6 fucked around with this message at 23:34 on Jun 5, 2014

# ¿ Jun 5, 2014 23:27

No. 6: Jun 30, 2002

NihilCredo posted:

I hope it's not too frowned upon to ask a general "what about this weird little car" question.

Later this week I'll be looking at a 2005 Audi A2 1.2 TDI. Opinions about this car on the Internet are pretty polarised, to say the least. Some say it's a poo poo tin can that flips on a mild curve, drives like a sloth, and sacrifices safety for nonexistent fuel savings (e.g. undersized tyres). Some say it's a resilient, dependable car that got screwed over by a high retail price and poor marketing. (Here's a typical A2 thread.) Does any goon have some experience with it? I would use it for a daily ~50m commute through narrow but relatively trafficked roads.

The one thing that everybody seems to agree upon is that the aluminium chassis makes it expensive as gently caress to fix any bump. Since this is mostly a maintenance/repair thread, does anyone know how expensive we're talking about?

And of course, what sorts of components should I give an extra careful look to (or, rather, get the mechanic to)?

The ASF is the frame of the vehicle and would only be costly in a fairly eventful wreck beyond your standard fender-bender. Given the cost of the car, any damage to the frame would almost certainly total it out. Other than that, I don't know much about this oddball although I do think they're kinda neat.

Question for you, why not get a diesel Golf? They're pretty reliable and can easily obtain the same fuel economy. I was averaging about 50mpg in my MkVI Golf.

# ¿ Jun 12, 2014 16:28

No. 6: Jun 30, 2002

If you're serious about chip tuning your car and want to keep warranty, just but a 2nd ECU and keep it stock so you can swap it when it goes into the dealer. Of course, you'll also need a VCDS tool in order to reset the codes from the ECU swap.

Switching between programming normally works, but only if someone doesn't actually look inside the ECU box. Once that happens, the proverbial jig is up.

# ¿ Jun 19, 2014 13:42

No. 6: Jun 30, 2002

As soon as I bought my 2nd hand A8, I dropped the transmission pan, changed the filter, fluid, and gasket. It shifts better now than when I bought it.

I can't imagine a single reason new fluid would cause a transmission to fail, unless you use the wrong fluid or fuckup the fill.

# ¿ Jun 19, 2014 21:11

No. 6: Jun 30, 2002

I think you'd want the VCDS License with HEX-USB + CAN. You can plug just about any Windows PC into this thing and recode to your hearts content. $350

# ¿ Jun 20, 2014 20:09

No. 6: Jun 30, 2002

Mikey Purp posted:

I just bought my first new car - a 2013 VW Beetle. What's the general rule of thumb as far as the impact of mods on warranty?

I gather from the last few pages that chipping is definitely a no no, but how about other performance-minded mods? I'm specifically thinking about installing sport springs, a new air intake, and possibly a new exhaust down the road.

Historically, exhausts and intakes haven't been issues for VW like ECU modifications have, but dealers can still raise a fuss, especially for related pieces (e.g. MAF and O2 sensors).

Suspension doesn't really matter to them so long as you don't start whining when your bushings wear faster or something.

# ¿ Jun 20, 2014 20:22

No. 6: Jun 30, 2002

I Am Not Spor posted:

Can someone enlighten me on how to fill a drained automatic transmission with new oil in an '03 Passat? Fill it up when it's dead cold, run it, then continue to fill it until it hits 34C? 45C? Running temp (loving hot)? The Bentley is really ambiguous on how/when to do it and VW doesn't make it easy.

I don't seem to have the data for VWs, but on my Audi the system says the procedure is as follows:

With a stone cold transmission, engine off, transmission in Park, remove inspection plug
Insert your filler hook (VAG1924) into filler hole
Pump fluid into transmission until ATF drips from hole
Start engine and let run for 20 seconds, then turn off
Pump fluid into transmission until ATF drips from hole
Start engine, leave running
Pump fluid into transmission until ATF drips from hole
Tighten inspection plug
Depress brake pedal and shift select level through all selector lever positions, leaving in each position for 10 seconds
Place selector in N
Increase engine RPM to 2000 and maintain for at least 60 seconds
Place selector lever in position P
Remove inspection plug
Pump fluid into transmission until ATF drips from hole
Tighten inspection plug

When I followed this procedure, all of the temp values were in line with what you're quoting. The reason it's recommended to use the VAG tool and check internal temps while filling is that the volume can change depending on the temp of the fluid. Different environmental temperatures (shop is really hot or really cold) are enough to cause and over/under fill situation.

Again, this is a procedure for my Audi, not your Passat, but maybe it'll help you make sense of what Bentley is talking about.

# ¿ Jun 28, 2014 06:22

No. 6: Jun 30, 2002

Prefect Six posted:

The traction control light in my 01 225 TT is coming and staying on recently. Google says it could be a dirty MAF, can anyone corroborate?

It doesn't make sense to me why the MAF would trigger the traction control light. Regardless get someone with a VAGCOM tool to pull the codes and see what's up.

# ¿ Jul 10, 2014 13:48

No. 6: Jun 30, 2002

Prefect Six posted:

Right, my point was more that nothing is going to blow up this second.

Another point, the EC you will automatically reset certain codes after a predefined number of cycles. The error still stays stored, but the light will eventually go off if the criteria does not recur.

# ¿ Jul 11, 2014 00:06

No. 6: Jun 30, 2002

Question, do the VWs have a battery module? Changing the battery on my A8 requires a reset of the module so it's not just a quick swap.

# ¿ Jul 11, 2014 05:51

No. 6: Jun 30, 2002

Can you measure the distance between the strap points?

# ¿ Jul 19, 2014 14:25

No. 6: Jun 30, 2002

Uthor posted:

If you really want to dig into it, rip apart all the panels and put it back together with strips of felt between any pieces that overlap/rub.

Pretty much this. I had a brand new 2001 Jetta and the only way I could get rid of squeaks and poo poo was with tons of self adhesive felt around where the dash panels would meet.

# ¿ Aug 9, 2014 18:43

No. 6: Jun 30, 2002

webmeister posted:

Question about a 2001 Golf: it's an auto transmission and has this feature where you can't shift out of Park/Neutral without your foot on the brake. Over the last few days it seems like the brake sensor has started malfunctioning, as it now usually takes 4-5 pumps on the brake pedal before I can shift out of park.

Is this a minor issue I can fix myself (or a feature I can disable), or is it going to be a costly trip to the mechanic?

Generally the brake switch is a fairly easy fix. You'll likely need a torx bit to remove the tray above the pedals, from there I think there's a clip and a wire harness that hold the cylindrical switch in place.

# ¿ Aug 26, 2014 23:53

No. 6: Jun 30, 2002

veedubfreak posted:

Who will have the best flash now that APR is swirling the drain

What do you mean by this? Is the company folding?

# ¿ Sep 18, 2014 22:56

No. 6: Jun 30, 2002

6 months isn't that long. You might want to trickle charge it and start it up and let it idle for about 20 mins, every 2-3 weeks. Other than that, making sure your tires don't get a flat spot would be good.

# ¿ Sep 22, 2014 04:11

No. 6: Jun 30, 2002

I had an Audi with two turbos. Ask me how much the repairs were. loving VAG forced induction.

# ¿ Sep 26, 2014 03:37

No. 6: Jun 30, 2002

Exhaust side impeller imbedded in the catalytic converter.

# ¿ Sep 27, 2014 07:39

No. 6: Jun 30, 2002

Audi bullshit strikes again. Had to replace a coolant pipe which connects the oil-cooler and the engine block. $30 part, $1300 in labor (and that's a bargain).

Drove it home and head a honking noise. loving crankcase PCV valve is going bad. There's another $125.

Still love the car but would be happy to go 12 months without fixing something.

# ¿ Oct 8, 2014 04:22

No. 6: Jun 30, 2002

You can probably spray the loving hell out of the engine bay with some simple green in order to get rid of the diesel.

# ¿ Oct 13, 2014 05:19

No. 6: Jun 30, 2002

Why are you replacing the whole axel anyway?

# ¿ Nov 3, 2014 04:29

No. 6: Jun 30, 2002

Find a decent shop the clean your FSI motor carbon buildup.

As for CV boots, they cost like $15 and take no time at all to replace. But you can waste money on a whole axel if you prefer.

# ¿ Nov 9, 2014 02:29

No. 6: Jun 30, 2002

8ender posted:

Those split boots are a monster pain in the rear end to fit but they do work.

Did Audi change them? The last time I did a CV boot was on a 2001 S4 and I had the whole thing done in about 30 mins.

# ¿ Nov 9, 2014 17:06

No. 6: Jun 30, 2002

Try changing the plugs? Have you looked at a VAG tool to see if it's logging any misfires?

# ¿ Dec 4, 2014 04:48

No. 6: Jun 30, 2002

Virigoth posted:

It looks like it turned out to NOT be that but the symptoms fit. They just called to tell me I blew my turbo on the car and they have to replace the whole thing but they don't have any loaners cars. Would it be worth it to ask for a buy bid on the car (33k miles mostly city) and see if I can get a deal on a newer model year with this going on?

Isn't that within the mileage warranty, even if not the year? I'd push the dealer for VW to front the bill.

# ¿ Jan 12, 2015 23:45

No. 6: Jun 30, 2002

If they don't have loaners, check with your insurance if they cover rentals cars for incidents such as this.

# ¿ Jan 13, 2015 06:08

No. 6: Jun 30, 2002

Alabamarama posted:

Apologies if this has been covered before, but I am interested to know what it would be like living with a 95 audi s6 avant.

I have done a little research, and while plenty of people are quick to say "yeah they are reasonably reliable" or "good luck ever finding a replacement front bumper cover," I cannot seem to find any information on how much of a pain it is to actually own one.

Does the urs6 suffer from your typical VAG "oh god why would anyone design a car that way?!" issues? Do I need tiny hands to work on anything/everything under the hood? If I want to replace the shift boot do I have to start by removing the trim panels in the trunk?

I am not scared about getting elbow-deep in 20v turbo audi, but it would be really nice to get some extra input before I go and do something financially stupid.

And yes, I have tools, jack stands, steady income, an empty garage bay, and a second vehicle.

Check with the guys at http://www.quattroworld.com and http://www.audiworld.com. There are quite a few 20vT owners there that can give you a good idea what you're getting into.

# ¿ Apr 14, 2015 12:55

No. 6: Jun 30, 2002

For those that don't read the horrible mechanical failures thread, my 4 month old PCV valve started making a lot of noise this past week.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bkG5NW4YJWw

I managed to carefully open the valve and rinsed it with hot water before giving a gentle wipe down with paper towel. I also stretched the valve spring ever so slightly for good measure. Everything seems to be back to nominal.

In typical Audi fashion though, one thing fixed is another broken. I'm fighting an occasional lean condition which is triggering the MIL every couple weeks. Today I attempted to find the source. Suspecting a vacuum leak I monitored the short-term and long-term air mixture while spraying copious amounts of carb cleaner all around. I couldn't seem to find any sort of a vacuum leak so I logged my MAF grains per second while doing a 3rd gear run.

From what I'm told those readings are a bit low. I'm gonna try throwing a new Bosch MAF on the Big Pig to see if that helps, unless someone has another suggestion.

No. 6 fucked around with this message at 01:43 on Apr 19, 2015

# ¿ Apr 19, 2015 01:30

No. 6: Jun 30, 2002

New MAF did nothing for my lean condition issue.

Dumped the Big Pig off at Audi this morning. I'm nearly certain there is a vacuum leak caused by the tech last time they had my intake manifold off. I told them they need to get it fixed.

# ¿ Apr 23, 2015 17:43

No. 6: Jun 30, 2002

Could be any number of things. Worn shift balls on shifter arm, stretched cables, old fluid, failing syncros, bad clutch.

Start with the easy stuff that should be done like change the gearbox oil. See if your clutch is slipping at all or is stiff to press down. Next make sure your cables are adjusted and that the ball connectors aren't worn.

I've always found the 02J transmissions to be finicky and want to grind and crunch on fast shifts from 2-3.

# ¿ May 5, 2015 16:54

No. 6: Jun 30, 2002

Hashtag Banterzone posted:

My 2010 Golf TDI keeps telling me to check my license plates lights, but they are working. Should I try replacing the fuse and see if that fixes it?

Are you using incandescent bulbs, or LED bulbs?

# ¿ May 12, 2015 05:21

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# ¿ Apr 29, 2024 13:22

No. 6: Jun 30, 2002

After a lengthy diagnostic, Audi seems to have located the problem with my random lean conditions. It appears that I have one fuel pump out of two that is failing which is causing aeration in the line.

There goes another $1,000

# ¿ Jun 1, 2015 16:41

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