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I have a 98 jetta TDI, occasionally my service engine soon light comes on and when it does, if I have the AC on, the car will slow down rpm then go back to normal, it cycles every 2 seconds between normal/slow down, I was wondering if you might know what that is? Also, occasionally my turbo will stop working and my service light comes on, if I'm on the freeway or going already, I'll just turn the ignition off and back on again while rolling then let off the clutch and keep going. Once my car turns back on, the turbo works again. Could those both be related? I've been trying to figure this out for the past month.
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Jun 25, 2010 01:35
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primitive posted:while i'm in the UK my parents have been instructed to drive my GTI hard at least once a week You should have instructed them that parking hard once a week was also a requirement just to see the look on their faces.
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Jun 28, 2010 23:36
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vicpro posted:Also the battery indicator is on, the car ran fine on the way back home except for the squeaking which was worse. Don't know about that broken ring part, but if the battery light is on and it's squeaking, either the alternator is bad or something else broke so the belt isn't turning the alternator. In any case, you've already said you're no mechanic, I'm going to assume that means your dad isn't as well which is why you're asking an internet forum. Take the vehicle to a mechanic. They'll probably try to bend you over a little because it's a  TDI and when mechanics, especially euro mechanics, see those 3 letters they instantly see green which is why I work on my own no matter what the problem because what was going to cost me $1850 6 months ago only cost me $35 in parts.
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Aug 23, 2010 17:11
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Sounds like the power steering pump is going out. The power steering pump is connected to the serpentine belt, most likely also the alternator is hooked up to the same belt. If the power steering belt seizes momentarily while turning, the belt has a harder time of turning, your battery light would come on notifying you of improper charging. What is the year/make/model of your wifes vehicle?
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Oct 1, 2010 22:06
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^^^ Either Ebay or LKQ.
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Oct 11, 2010 16:30
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General_Failure posted:What model VW is my coolant tank from? If I ever need another it's good to know. I also have that exact same tank in my 98 tdi. They just added a max fill line to it as well.
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Nov 18, 2010 19:06
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Do any of you know of a mechanic in northern CA/the bay area that works on VW TDI's? My timing is out and I need it corrected but I don't have the proper vag-com setup to take care of the job. cheap e-bay obd2 cable ahoy!
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Nov 5, 2011 18:36
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Billy Tully posted:Check out this list for someone close to you. These guys are approved by the tdiclub. Thank you, that's exactly what I needed! 
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Nov 6, 2011 08:08
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edit: nevermind, already found an answer.
keykey fucked around with this message at 00:26 on Mar 9, 2012 |
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Mar 9, 2012 00:07
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Sooo... Limp mode is happening on the '98 Jetta TDI. Is this the place to ask around about how to fix that or would that be a different thread?
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May 17, 2012 15:47
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dustywusty posted:Read the codes yet? Yeah, P01550 is the code I'm getting. I just replaced my vacuum lines and N75 last December since I figured it was time anyway as preventative maintenance, 265k miles. I have pressure tested the blue line off the n75 that goes to the turbo and it held 15lbs pressure for about 2 minutes before I cut pressure on the pump tool. There was some oil going up the line though I'm not sure if that's supposed to happen or not while pressure testing. Also, it seems to happen most if the A/C is on and around 2200-2300 rpm. Another thing I notice is a clicking in the drivers side dash on initial acceleration. I'll be accelerating and it will click once then I have a lot of power then it'll click again and I'll have 3/4 the amount of power and it will stay this way. I've noticed it's fairly temperature related too. If it's cold outside, nothing will usually happen unless I'm trying to accelerate up a hill. If it's warm outside, it'll go into limp mode once every 15-45 minutes in the 2200-2300 rpm range while in fifth, sometimes even when changing from first gear to second in town.
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May 17, 2012 17:37
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dustywusty posted:Sticky wastegate issues? Shot in the dark, obviously. That's the thing that's weird. If the wastegate was the problem, it works perfect other than in that range. If it was a sticky wastegate, it would stick at random intervals rather than a perfect range everytime right?
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May 17, 2012 19:49
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Billy Tully posted:Did you change the little vacuum hose that goes into the ECM when you replaced the rest? It often gets overlooked and causes boost problems. Yes, I changed that one too.
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May 17, 2012 22:59
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Wicaeed posted:Well poo poo, it actually looks like the reason they declined the repair was that my car isn't actually in warranty any longer. Not sure why I thought the warranty lasted until 85,000 miles VW has one of the shittiest warranties available for a new vehicle. Back in the good ol' days of the 2 year warranty, my dad bought a brand new '69 bus and 25 months after owning it the engine poo poo itself and their response was something along the lines of,"That sucks."
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Jun 5, 2012 22:39
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Opensourcepirate posted:Keykey, if you're still have limp mode troubles then try the guys at forums.tdiclub.com Yeah, I've already opened a thread there, I use a different username. The hell of it is, there are 5 threads in the mk3 forums where people had the exact same issue, they all got help and none of the assholes posted either thanking the people for helping them of divulging what the drat problem was. That's what I really hate about most forums is people getting what they need then bolting so there's no resolution for other people with the same issue which completely defeats the purpose of a vehicle troubleshooting sub-forum. edit: According to the FAQ's these are some things of what could possibly be wrong: low fuel delivery or wrong fuel in tank or clogged fuel filter, grossly wrong injection timing (will set other codes - check if within specifications - see TDIFAQ), wastegate stuck open, N75 control valve stuck open, clogged exhaust or catalyst, clogged air intake or intake manifold, major leak of boost pressure to atmosphere. So far I've replaced the fuel filter, replaced the n75, replace all vacuum hoses, replaced air intake, cleaned snow screen, replaced MAF, checked wastegate pressure and it holds with no leaks. The only thing I haven't done is have my injection timing checked which I think is my next step but I need to find somebody with a VAGCOM rather than pay the local VW dealership $275. Hell, I can get a VAGCOM for that price and do it myself. keykey fucked around with this message at 16:28 on Jun 6, 2012 |
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Jun 6, 2012 16:15
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vanilla slimfast posted:A good friend of mine just recently started his own shop in SF Does he also work on TDI's specifically or is he a generalized mechanic? We have "TDI mechanics" around here but they don't know their rear end from a hole in the ground. One thought I had a fuel pump issue, I politely said I didn't think it was going to work out and left the shop.
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Jun 19, 2012 16:00
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Finally figured out the drat P01550 code on the 98 TDI. It's not leaking any oil from the turbo, but it doesn't hold pressure at 18 psi like it's supposed to. Over the coarse of a minute it goes from 18 psi down to 3 psi. Now it's time to put my shopping shoes on and see if I can find a "good deal" on a KKK borg warner turbo. 
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Aug 29, 2012 18:45
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SLAMMYsosa posted:So I bought a five hundred dollar 1980 diesel rabbit. It's pretty sweet. I'm new to VWs so I have a few questions. I'd recommend you become a member of the TDI club forums which is more or less a specialized forum for all things TDI (Audi/VW): forums.tdiclub.com You'll find a lot of people that own that particular vehicle and get tips from them as to what junk yards to call or even what web sites to get parts from. From what I've read in the past the diesel engine in those is pretty drat good and it's not uncommon to get at least 400k out of them because of how low tech they are. They run a bit dirty, but that's diesel for you.. Even if you have a clean oil filter and new oil in, it will look like it's been driven 2,500 miles just by checking the dip stick, it's the nature of the beast.
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Sep 4, 2012 16:50
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Thanks for all the help in trying to diagnose the limp mode issue with my 98 TDI, but I'm at my wits end and it's going either to the auction or to craigslist.. Most likely to the auction though because I hate dealing with craigslisters.
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Jul 30, 2013 03:22
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I've replaced the turbo, turbo inlet pipe, MAF sensor, N75, Intake manifold with EGR, all the vacuum lines including the one in the ECU, I've also tried changing out the ecu with a known working one as well as the egr control valve. Previously I also changed the fuel injection pump, various seals and such all with no dice and I'm done throwing money at it.
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Jul 30, 2013 05:06
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My wife is cracked out on VW's and is looking at CC's. What common problems, aside from VW electrical gremlins, do these tend to have or are they too new to tell yet?
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Feb 3, 2014 20:18
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Out of curiosity, how reliable are the DSG transmissions in a 2012 era Audi a3 TDI wagon? I've been looking at TDI's again for commuting and that model caught my eye.
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Apr 21, 2016 16:38
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CommieGIR posted:If the fluid was filled/changed on time? Great. I'm willing to bet it was not... What is the fluid change interval? The one I'm looking at has roughly 46k miles.
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Apr 21, 2016 17:11
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| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 14:56 |
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Sounds fun. So basically change fluid immediately. If the DSG fluid is changed every 40k, how many miles do they last on average?
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Apr 21, 2016 18:19
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