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I think I blew up the motor in my 2009 GTI at autocross this past weekend. It was on the first run so it's not like it was getting beat on all day. Four hours of labor at $115 to open up the motor to find out what's wrong seem reasonable? It makes a terrible rattling sound while running so I haven't tried to drive the car since this happened. Definitely isn't the timing belt rattle that is only heard for a second or two at start up. Oil might've been a little low and it might've been bounced off the red line a little bit. No OBDII codes and I don't have access to any kind of VAGCOM scanner. Also any recommendations for shops in the Boston area?
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Oct 13, 2015 02:44
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smax posted:Maybe coil packs if you want to head that issue off before it comes up. Happened to read about R8 coil packs being "better" and cheaper than the ones on the TSI motor. Any chance they use the same ones for his FSI? $16 a pop according to a YouTube vid I saw.
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Oct 14, 2015 04:08
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BlackMK4 posted:You spun bottom end bearings, time to pony the gently caress up. You can diagnose it by draining the oil and watching glitter pour out. This is what my engine sounds like: http://picosong.com/Sr4R So this motor is pretty might completely hosed right? Anyone know some good places to find a used motor (CBFA specifically)? I've searched all over ebay, Car-part, VW Vortex and GolfMKV. Ebay has motors for $2000 and up and Car-part is a little more expensive. Just hoping to find a cheaper gem somewhere else. Drunk Pledge Driver fucked around with this message at 23:50 on Oct 14, 2015 |
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Oct 14, 2015 22:48
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BraveUlysses posted:there's some sort of national 2k 'loyalty bonus' thing going on, but what you read could have just been one dealer's offer. those "100+XX % trade in" things are common for a lot of dealers, cause it sounds like a good deal but most likely never really is. http://www.thedrive.com/article/469/you-should-totally-buy-a-volkswagen-golf-r-right-now I am considering seeing what they'd offer me for my 09 GTI with something terrible wrong with the engine. Maybe if with the 125% trade in and $2000 loyalty bonus I'd get a decent trade in price for it.
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Oct 16, 2015 23:31
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NoWake posted:You'd better not let them hear it running before the ink dries on any trade-in offer they give you. How it is, only the 'push, pull & drag it in' lots would touch it. I bought the car cash and owe nothing on it. I work in banking so I certainly understand all the financials of buying a new car and how trade-ins are not great value at what not. My credit score is just shy of 800 so I would at least get a good rate. I also own four cars but need to sell two of them since they are mostly just sitting around. Despite running fine, those two would be much better candidates for a push/pull/drag lot. I'm trying to weigh all my options so it wouldn't hurt to see what a dealer has to offer. I actually wouldn't hate a stripper model Golf but I'd get it in manual since the regular automatic probably sucks (coming from a DSG). 170 hp can't be THAT much worse than the 200 (stock) my GTI has. Chipped its not far behind the Stage 1 GTI (which I had). It'd also give me a chance to pick up two extra doors and I could even make some extra money doing Uber/Lyft/whatever. I'd also have peace of mind with a new warrantied car. I don't know how the suspension would compare and I know the brakes are considerably worse than the GTI's which I felt were lacking for a "sports" car. I'd miss the heated seats if I got a stripper model but there are some cheap well reviewed heated seat pads on Amazon that could get me through winter. Going the keep the the current car route: There's a well recommended shop with new motors that come complete with intake manifold, throttle body and turbo for $3800 + $275 shipping from Canada. I got quoted ~$900 for a motor swap locally. So ~$5000 (but really probably a little more) for a brand new motor. I feel like I'll probably end up better off not having anyone even look into the old/current engine. I was quoted 4 hours of labor at $115/hr at the dealership my car is currently parked at. I'm trying to find some local used/rebuilt motors but not coming up with too many choices. Does anyone know if a 2010 CC motor will swap right in? There's one listed on Craigslist for $2400 with exchange and it's the same CBFA engine code. Also found an EOS engine on ebay for $1500 locally. I read that ECU's can be used with other engines as long as you disable the immobilizer so I'd get to keep my Stage 1 tune. I've been doing a lot of research into this stuff to find a cheaper way but at this point in time there really aren't too many options. The same shop quoted me ~$1300 in labor for a rebuild but piecing together all the internal parts will probably cost more than a used motor. I'm considering pricing out upgraded internals for a rebuild at this point but it's a lot of effort. Other thoughts: Someone in PA offered me a bottom end from a perfectly fine running motor for $800 (he is swapping in a built engine). It, unfortunately, is the CCTA engine so I can't use the head/whole engine. I think that finding a CBFA head to go with it by itself and from a known good motor will prove to be a bit difficult. There's also a rebuilt CCTA engine some-what locally for $1500 but again wouldn't work for me. Also I think that rebuilding the motor with all new internals would probably end up costing more than a used motor so that's most likely not a great option. Sorry for the disorganization, I'm a bit sleep deprived as I've spent at least a few hours every day this week doing research on this. I've come to the conclusion that I hate the VW community (online at least). r/VW is terrible it's pretty much all just people saying "Hey check out my new bone stock MK6!" Drunk Pledge Driver fucked around with this message at 05:10 on Oct 17, 2015 |
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Oct 17, 2015 03:23
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scuz posted:I likely would. If I find a roller around town that fits that description I'll probably go that route. The Golf would require massive, crazy frame hacks from my preliminary mock-ups and that's a big task. Too bad the Haldex doesn't respond well to full time RWD by disconnecting the front axle. They get toasted.
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Oct 21, 2015 02:37
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I've heard the immobilizer can be disabled via VAGCOM. I'd look into that.
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Oct 24, 2015 17:06
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2009 VW GTI update: I had the car towed to another shop and changed oil to inspect the old stuff. No glitter... I think the bottom end is probably fine then? Part of the valve cover was pulled off but the cams looked fine. I'd imagine the dealer would've said something if they didn't. Maybe timing jumped? Paid $1500 for my 49k mile replacement engine out of a 2012 or 2013 EOS with the same engine code. I pick it up Friday and will bring it to the shop. Probably just gonna have that swapped in and I'll do some forensics on the original engine after I move it to my storage unit. Pics http://imgur.com/J64k416 http://imgur.com/GsfYTaN Drunk Pledge Driver fucked around with this message at 22:18 on Oct 24, 2015 |
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Oct 24, 2015 21:55
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 Here's my 2009 gti oil pan. New motor going in. Ran me $1500 for the used motor with 49k miles and I bought a used turbo with 12k miles to go with it. Hoping total cost with labor is under $3000. Drunk Pledge Driver fucked around with this message at 01:02 on Nov 5, 2015 |
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Nov 4, 2015 18:08
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meatpimp posted:But it's a 1.8T/2.0/VR6, so clutches and flywheels are available from dozens of places at dirt cheap prices. I'll sell ya one!
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Jan 1, 2016 00:09
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Kashwashwa posted:Try and find a 2.0t flywheel for dirt cheap... they don't exist. Rockauto has by far the cheapest, it's $461 CDN. The exact same one is $1105 in Canada. I've got on from my 2009 GTI's blown motor. It the TSI engine with a DSG that had 73.5k miles on it if that makes a difference. Would part with it for cheap.
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Jan 2, 2016 18:41
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nockturne posted:Quick Audi A4 question. This bit: Depends on where exactly it's leaking. Maybes it's just loose and needs to be tighten or maybe the Teflon tape is bad and just needs to be replaced (is Teflon tape safe for gas and used in this case? I'm not sure). Could also be the rubber to fitting crimp that is bad and a little more work would need to be done.
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Jan 6, 2016 18:39
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nockturne posted:Yeah, you wouldn't use teflon tape anywhere near the fuel system, have to agree with that other dude. Try the form a gasket #3 that was suggested in the other post?
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Jan 7, 2016 06:07
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Uthor posted:Do those still have that problem of the cam follower eating away at the cam? If so, check that. That was an issue with the Fsi engines which were made up until 2008.5 on the GTIs. A variation is used for the golf R however.
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Jan 13, 2016 18:42
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Residency Evil posted:What's a fair price to replace the PCV valve and Upper Timing Cover Gasket on a 2010 GTI? It's at the dealership since I hit a massive pothole/went through insurance, and they noted some slight oil leakage from the gasket and wanted to replace it/the PCV valve which is also apparently on its way out for $500. I can't help you with prices but you should have them check your timing chain tensioner and if it's not the most current have them replace that too. The tensioners are known to break without warning.
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Jan 21, 2016 01:09
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shabbat goy posted:I'm having a weird issue with my mkIV Golf TDI (91,XXX miles) that just started today. It seems to be having odd shifting issues with the DSG transmission, but only under certain scenarios. In particular, if I accelerate from a dead stop, it will get into 2nd and then not wanna shift for a while, even if I let off the accelerator. It sat at around 3k RPM before eventually shifting into 3rd and continuing along. The other issue is downshifting from 5th to 4th if I'm trying to overtake, but only when it's above ~1800 RPM or +60mph. When I start to lay into it, it will kind of shudder and bump at around 2 or 3 Hz and not downshift for a few seconds (or I usually just let off the accelerator because I'm afaid my transmission is gonna blow up.) Other any other condition, it shifts fine and feels smooth. I haven't tried to see if it gets wacky if I shift it manually. Did you get the fluid and filter changed at 80k miles?
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Jan 23, 2016 00:11
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Nostrum posted:Installing VW wipers involves various incantations of "gently caress THIS PIECE OF poo poo" before it magically just clips into place. Just bought one from Costco and it took me a while to figure out. Also the pivot attachment thing is huge so I'll probably return it.
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Apr 20, 2016 02:06
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Intake if you want a small power bump. Tune is probably the best bang for your buck. Downpipe + exhaust only gets you a little more power but it's smoother. Also requires stage 2 tune which costs an extra $150 for APR, not sure about the other companies. If you have the tsi motor I have an intake I can sell you on the cheap
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Jun 11, 2016 17:14
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movax posted:Anyone seen a Tiptronic shifter issue where it won't shift into 'S', or the manual mode stops work? Everything shifts fine / works in 'D', I just cannot literally shift into 'S', and if I go into tiptronic mode, pushing up or down has no effect. Should be relatively easy to pull up the trim around the shifter and take a look underneath.
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Jul 23, 2016 14:41
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Fwiw I did my own dsg fluid for <$150 including buying the funnel. Prob ~&100 for fluid.
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Sep 26, 2016 01:40
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PabloBOOM posted:Glad to hear because I have 8k more miles before I need to do mine... Any helpful tips? I bought the fluid and filter together and the funnel separately on ebay. Any fluid is fine since it's at least made to the VW spec. I think mine was the Febi brand, cost about $85 with the filter. The funnel was $40 on ebay so I was out $125 total. There was a video I followed on Youtube that said to fill all the fluid then let it get to a certain temp that can be checked on VAGCOM. I didn't own one at the time so I used an infrared thermometer on the pan and called it good enough. You don't even have to buy the funnel if you don't want to. You can fill from where the filter goes but supposedly it's a bit slower of a process that way. I could sell you my used funnel if you're interested in saving a few bucks. We used to play Battlefield 2 together so you can trust me 
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Sep 27, 2016 23:25
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You can get a used Vagcom for $200 or so. Program whatever you want then sell it for what you paid.
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Nov 18, 2016 18:49
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Anyone have experience replacing ABS modules in a MKV GTI? Mine is a 2009 with DSG (and I think it has hill assist) and my dash board intermittently lights up like a Christmas tree. I've read I can get a later year module, swap it in and program the coding the same as my current unit and it should work. Just not sure of what model numbers will work for me. Dealer cost is over $2k from what I've read. Hoping to get used one and do it for $~200 after buying another VAG-COM cable and selling it after I'm all set.
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Jan 15, 2017 19:55
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willroc7 posted:There is a recall for bad solder in the ABS module. Thanks, this totally made my weekend. Checked the VW recall site and my car should be covered under this recall. Too bad I just ordered a used VAG-COM cable in preparation for doing the repair myself. Owned one before and did the customization I wanted then resold it.
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Jan 16, 2017 08:39
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I'm pretty sure if your car is just the ABS/brake/TC lights then you're not having the issue that the recall is related to. Check the vw recall site and pop your VIN in. Just recently my steering wheel light and EPC light come on in addition to the ABS/brake/TC lights. Power steering is stiff at low speeds, speedometer doesn't work, display tells me I need gas when I have plenty of gas and perhaps the most blatently obvious difference is the display says "ENGINE FAULT WORKSHOP." Restarting the car usually doesn't help and this just comes and goes as it pleases which is pretty typical of a bad ground. Look into cleaning your abs sensors but be real careful taking them out. I broke the only one I tried so I didn't bother trying to do the rest.
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Jan 17, 2017 04:19
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Brought 2009 GTI in to get the ABS module and mechtronic serviced but still waiting to hear if both will be covered under extended warranty or recall since the VW website says the ABS module recall repair is not ready yet. They did a walk around/under video and pointed out an oil leak on the turbo oil feed line. This has probably been happening since I blew my engine and had a mechanic swap a used a motor in. Anybody know how hard it is to replace the gasket there? Also have cylinder 2 and 3 cold start misfires so I believe I am due for a valve cleaning. What's the typical going rate for this? I'd probably like to get it done cheaper than what the dealer will charge but its also not something I know I need to get done right now. Drunk Pledge Driver fucked around with this message at 03:49 on Feb 10, 2017 |
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Feb 10, 2017 03:41
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I was quoted $700 at the dealer I brought it to. gently caress that. I think I've seen independent people near me that will do it for 300-400. I'd do it myself if I still had an air compressor.
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Feb 10, 2017 22:03
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RIP Paul Walker posted:Has anyone had experience with the 2.0t's timing chain tensioner failing? I'm hearing mixed reports on how trashed the engine will be - I know there will be some bent valves, but I'm hearing reports of metal going all over the engine making the bottom end unusable. I've read into it since I blew up my engine for different reasons (red lining with low oil). Seems like some motors just have top end damage and others can have bottom end damage as well. Only way to tell is to open up the motor. If you have a CBTA engine and it's just the top end that's hosed up I have my old motor sitting in a storage unit I could part with on the cheap.
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Feb 25, 2017 01:45
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obi_ant posted:Big rear end rock hit my front windshield. Any ideas how to fix it aside from replacing the whole thing? Insurance covers windshields in many states. I had mine done in Massachusetts for free on two vehicles. I think my current insurance has a $100 deductible for it though? Also you would need to let us know how much damage it there is. A crack under a certain size can be filled with a kit to at least not spread over time but sometimes extreme temperatures will cause cracks to get larger anyway.
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Feb 26, 2017 06:17
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PabloBOOM posted:DSG transmission fluid question. How sensitive is this stuff actually to thermal expansion? I know the official bottom fill replacement measures the fluid at around 100f. I let my car cool for about 90 minutes before draining the fluid and about 5.5 liters came out. Only 4.5 is typical according to the internet. The fluid wasn't hot enough to burn through nitrile gloves so I think it was around 100 give or take a bunch. Its hard to say. I think you would have wanted to measure only much was drained after pulling the second plug (plastic tube one). Whatever drains after pulling the first plug but before the second isn't actually being used by the dsg, it's just overflow.
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Feb 26, 2017 18:38
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Oldsrocket_27 posted:Thanks for the replies everyone. I'm looking at this car as a daily driver for my very very short (5-10 min depending on weather) commute and the occasional road trip so I don't plan to drive it hard, but the last owner was a college student, so at 89,XXX miles I'd bet it's had some rough treatment in the past. I'll take a look at what engine it has if I go back in, and ask about the cam follower/timing chain tensioner as is appropriate, and if preventative maintenance hasn't been done/the dealership isn't willing to work with me on it, I'll probably pass. You may want to consider something with the 2.5l i5 engine. Seems it's more reliable and I've seen many rabbits for cheap. Not sure if that translates to Passat prices though or if the passage had said engine.
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Mar 1, 2017 18:05
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Guinness posted:Are VWs really so bad with electronics and stuff these days, still? I thought they had started to get their poo poo together more recently. It's still something that makes me a little reticent to jump on the VW bandwagon with a new GTI or AllTrack. I've got friends who still have nightmares about their VAG cars from the late 90s-early 2000s, but other friends with more recent models with no serious problems. Well my 2009 GTI had all sorts of dangerous issues due to a bad abs module that was finally recalled a few months ago. The dsg would sometimes shift into 1st out of nowhere and keep me stuck there for a while. Pretty terrifying in heavy rain and snow when going 40+ mph. So I guess it all depends on if you're a risk taker or not. Many people had to pay out of pocket for this repair before the recall and it was over $2000. I do really want an Alltrack though. The loss of 40ish? Hp and some torque in exchange for awd is pretty sweet.
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Apr 21, 2017 21:54
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DesperateDan posted:The false low oil warning on a 1.8t is normally the oil level sensor dying or the wiring to it getting corroded or damaged. It's both on mine. The crankcase breather valve can give intermittent faulty oil pressure warnings too, that's always a fun warning sign to see after you just ragged the poo poo out of it. Still, neither as annoying as the vacuum system that's designed to disintegrate. Why does the 1.8T have a low oil warning but not the 2.0T? I blew an engine not too long after my first oil change after I bought my car used and didn't bother to check my oil since I assumed it would have an idiot light.
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Apr 22, 2017 21:14
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Michael Scott posted:You're right, I should try it myself. I don't have a vacuum or air hose to get out the bits of glass, though. It's gonna bug me seeing those macroscopic glass bits in between the projector lens and outer housing, they will probably remain there forever. They bounced out of the projector lens small opening during driving. Try a can of computer duster?
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Jul 30, 2017 07:01
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There’s a class action lawsuit against vw for the timing chains. May be worth looking into but may be too late to submit a claim.
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Feb 24, 2019 17:54
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VelociBacon posted:Just wanted to say I picked up the official Carista OBD2 adapter (my older bluetooth adapter wasn't the full protocol that carista uses, worked for torque level stuff only) and it's worked really well. I cleared the airbag fault, reset the service interval, and turned on flashing brake lights during extreme braking. I tried turning on the long-press remote function to roll windows down but it didn't work. I guess it's not supported in my vehicle (Mk5 GTI). I used it on my partner's 2013 Jetta to turn DRL on (I'm in Canada) as well. I enabled long press windows up/down on my 2009 GTI with a VAGCOM cable a few years ago.
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May 8, 2020 05:06
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Russian Bear posted:They probably don't want you hauling a boat with it, bicycle racks are fine. But looks like there are plenty of options: Turbo cars aren't great for towing because you typically want to keep the engine at higher RPMs than normal. I've heard of someone towing a boat with a Grand National and their headers were literally red hot.
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Jun 5, 2020 06:08
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Trying to chase down a boost leak on my 2009 GTI. There’s a pretty loud whistling going on but I’m having a hard time locating it. I’ve tried plugged the intake, pressurizing with an air compressor and spraying with soapy water but still couldn’t find it. Car info: 2009 GTI CBFA 136k miles. APR Stage 1 tune and APR intake. I do have a VAGCOM cable but have no idea what tests to do. I’m getting a p0101 code for erroneous maf reading What I’ve done: Replacing the maf sensor 1.5 years ago Just replaced the intercooler coupler orings/gasket (3 on the pipes that connect directly to it) and also on the turbo inlet (I think, it’s underneath in the back passenger side) Replaced PCV and both hoses that attach to it Replaced turbo diverter valve Checked for play in waste gate actuator shaft, there wasn’t any Probably some other things I can’t think of Video of very obvious whistle: https://youtube.com/shorts/Bukr1GASI94 Any ideas? Drunk Pledge Driver fucked around with this message at 22:56 on May 25, 2023 |
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May 25, 2023 22:08
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I ended up having a shop diagnose my boost leak. Turns out the intercooler is leaking on my 2009 GTI. I know the S3 intercooler was a popular upgrade but I can find one for cheap with the part # that was recommended. Any other suggestions for a cheap upgrade?
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Jul 22, 2023 20:30
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VelociBacon posted:I'd take a look at ECS tuning's website but tbh the intercoolers on GTIs are probably not where you'll find a noticeable increase in power or anything, they're already pretty good. I'd probably just grab a stock one if it's significantly cheaper. Thanks. $135 for an intercooler off Amazon and 4 hours of my time and we're back in business. Was quoted ~$1200 at a reputable shop.
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Aug 12, 2023 04:59
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