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I think the spec is somewhere closer to 1qt/1000 miles, and the rings are a 50/50 shot of actually fixing the issue, oftentimes people get new rings and right off the bat the burning starts right back up. Its just a poo poo design. Consumption is also covered under powertrain warranty which goes for longer, usually 50k at least. 1qt per 1500 is considered okay per the consumption tsb and test plan, I dont think they will do anything for you.
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Aug 26, 2013 07:56
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| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 09:50 |
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Basically every 1.8t or 2.8 leaks oil from the adjuster seal, the reason you don't see it is cause most of it is burning on your exhaust. It isnt something that's going to prevent the car from running, but it will not get any better on its own, either. Eventually you will notice burning smells and smoke entering the vents. If you have only done things like spark plugs, fixing the seals is probably not the right job for you. It can be done is about 30 minutes, but its a really complicated job for someone with no knowledge. The official procedure involves removing the camshaft, the way its done is to collapse the tensioner with the tool you linked, then move the cam gear around until you get enough play in it to lift the adjuster up and slide the new seal in. Also you should use anaerobic sealant on the seal to try and hope the new one will last more than 50k. Also you will need a valve cover gasket, since you remove the v/c to get to the adjuster.
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Sep 9, 2013 21:10
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If your pump is loud it is probably separating at the center, there are rivets there that tend to come loose with age in which case you are leaking air there. You can check the vacuum supply line but 1.8s rarely break them there. The combination valves also clog up with carbon, this is a fault where vag com is your best tool, output testing the system and see what is working and what the combination valve duty cycle is, etc. Check your pump rivets first, you can replace them with bolts or zip ties or whatever if your pump is separating. Your cat fault is likely not related, you probably have a weak cat starting to fail. They all do around 10 years or so. Use pb blaster on the studs and try to remove the nuts by hand when you replace it. Hot bolt paste also works wonders when putting the new nuts on the studs for it if you ever need to remove it again.
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Oct 16, 2013 05:35
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There is a separate coolant level and temperature light, its not your coolant level that caused your check engine light, as someone else mentioned. It could be a cat, thermostat, anything really. If you feel concerned about your coolant level, just add water to it. Your cooling system takes more than a gallon of total fluid, that little amount could be due to a previous fill or just caused the system was currently pressurized when you checked it. But if it's not even low enough to trigger the warning on your instrument cluster, just add some water. And get your check engine light scanned somewhere.
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Jan 2, 2014 18:58
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Residency Evil posted:Any chance the coil packs will fix (what I think is) my 2.0T's gentle misfiring on occasion, or is that probably carbon-buildup? Coils usually cause what is called a dead hole, a cylinder that always misfires. carbon misfires are usually sporadic, and happen more when first starting the engine, and yes they also happen on 2.0s all the time, even the new ccta and cbfa engines. Why they occur under cold starts and low load is that what happens isn't the valve gets stuck from the carbon, but the intake ports literally clog with carbon sludge in the rear area of the valve, and when the intake manifold changeover ports are closed, the engine literally starves for air because it can't enter the cylinder. There is a new fuel additive your dealer sells for around 20 dollars, but it is believed there is no preventable fix for it, and every 2.0 engine will need to be hand scraped after 60k or so. That is literally the only way to remove all that black goo.
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Feb 2, 2014 19:00
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You can just use a jack or engine hanger to hold the engine in place, be careful of the aluminum oil pan, the passenger side is easy but the driver side is harder, I think you have to take out the airbox and move to wire loom for the engine harness to get to the hidden third bolt for that mount. Also about those passat cv boots, if all 4 are really torn just save yourself some time and get refurb axles instead.
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Feb 21, 2014 16:58
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you can take it apart and try to dry it, it just snaps open you can see the lines on the remote, its likely done though, most that go through the washer are not salvageable. If it opens the trunk the remote is still programmed to the car, so its not a programming problem. The immobilizer part is rfid based with a little chip, the remote functions are separate. You probably need a new key.
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Mar 7, 2014 19:20
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I think there is two official cables, and a bunch of bootleg ones. The hex+can one is the version which will work on both the older and newer cars, anyway. The ross tech software is better than factory in a bunch of ways now even, like labeling value blocks and telling you what a "normal" reading should be.
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Mar 30, 2014 05:50
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Terminus Est posted:My wife has a 2008 Passat wagon with the 2.0 FSI engine in it. We got it new and the last 96,000 miles it has never given a CEL. It popped up a p0303 code along with another few, but basically it has a misfire on cylinder 3. I replaced the pcv on the intake side as well as the hard line with the check valve on the exhaust side. My general misfire code along with misfires in cylinders 1 and 4 went away. To fix the cylinder 3 code I swapped out all the plugs and coils with new. That fixed it for a week. P0303 came back. Now I'm looking at doing an intake valve cleaning as a near last resort. Does it misfire when cold? Usually the only other cause for misfires on the fsi is a fuel injector, but those usually end up sticking open and just dumping fuel into the exhaust and you know it pretty quickly. Sporadic misfires are usually always carbon on the new engines, and with 98,000 miles if they haven't been cleaned yet that's certainly where I would look first.
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Apr 1, 2014 16:56
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Cylinders 3 and 4 trigger most of the misfires because the breather line port is on the right side of the manifold, so most of the goo builds up in those cylinders first. The fsi manifold is a little harder to remove than the tsi, but they all come off pretty easy. You have to remove the throttle valve to get to the lower bracket bolt for the block, though.
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Apr 1, 2014 21:40
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chutwig posted:It's probably the fuel cap pressure testing. My GTI does it as well and I'm pretty sure that it's part of the car's emissions controls. This is correct, sort of. What you are hearing is the fuel system leak detection pump depressurizing the evap system to check for any evap or tank leaks, it's usually done once per drive cycle when you start the engine up. The LDP is in the right fender behind the liner and makes a series of thumps while its applying vacuum to the tank. Fuel pumps hum, sometimes after an accident it's possible on the newer cars to have the fuel pump get knocked sideways, but the rattle it always constant and not temp related. Those are under the rear seat anyway, not really a right rear noise.
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Apr 24, 2014 18:21
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Not all BPY engines are covered for some reason so hopefully yours is, it is quite common as you know, they will do an oil change as part of the camshaft repair to remove any metal, so far I don't think any bearing or engine failures from the metal have been documented, once they replace the camshaft, pump and lifter and the oil change you should be fine.
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May 4, 2014 08:55
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The original fault code was likely P203b00 which is the adblue level sensor circuit, not P0203. There are two units for the adblue tank system, the module, which is also the pump, and the heater element with level sensor built in. If the fault is sporadic which it likely is, then wire testing doesn't tell you much and the repair procedure is to replace both units. You might be able to just replace the heater element with sensor attached, but the fault could be on the module side as well, both seem to fail.
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May 27, 2014 16:56
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Even if a dealer does it, it is not okay. Some dealers will offer chip tuning and maybe they will honor the warranty as a dealership but there is no factory warranty support for defects due to tuned ecms, period. Once the ODIS scan tool software detects a flashed ecm during scanning a trigger flag is sent to a server which triggers in your warranty information your ecm has been tuned, as far as I am aware no person can ever remove that flag or even has access to it once it is set. You can call vw customer care and ask them, too. Don't let this dissuade you from getting a flash though, vw is very aware this is all happening, and to be honest warranty coverage being denied due to tuned ecms is really an uncommon thing. Tuned ecms didn't matter when camshafts were tearing up lifters left and right, and now they don't care if your ecm is tuned if your intake manifold runner fails, still covered. There are a lot more denied coverage claims for things like failed mass air flow sensors due to over oiled aftermarket air filters.
420Chris fucked around with this message at 07:31 on Jun 18, 2014 |
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Jun 18, 2014 07:22
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| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 09:50 |
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Not really since vw will pay to fix your fuel system meanwhile you will be out 3 grand for a bad particulate filter. The downside of the TDI. Every one of them needs a DPF around 80-120k miles.
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Aug 29, 2014 16:22
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